Ruffnut Thorston Posted January 16, 2018 Author Share Posted January 16, 2018 (edited) The Airfix Meat Van... The chassis was going to be weighted with lead sheet underneath...but I got hold of some better weights. These were too big to go under the floor, so were added on top of the floor to either end...20g in 2X 10g weights. The brake cross shaft and Vacuum Cylinder linkage has been represented with wire... Finished...well almost! The roof is not glued on yet. I may add some interior detail....and I do not know what colour the inside should be! The "Crewe" legend is from an old Modelmasters chalk lettering sheet... This kit transfer sheet actually came with more than one wagon number.... Edited August 8, 2019 by Sarahagain photo links updated after being changed! 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold BR Blue Posted January 16, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 16, 2018 Very nice. It just shows what can be done with these old kits. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ruffnut Thorston Posted January 17, 2018 Author Share Posted January 17, 2018 It is a funny thing, that in some cases the old Airfix kits can be cheaper thatn a new Dapol Kit.... OK, the Dapol kits may include some wheels, etc..... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ruffnut Thorston Posted January 27, 2018 Author Share Posted January 27, 2018 (edited) Regarding weathering Mineral wagons... I have a few differnt types, and I am attempting to portray differnt ages, therefore weathering... The earliest is still in MOT livery, so is in theory the muckiest! There is also a slope sided mineral in BR grey, so a more recent re-paint... The earlier BR number and load were painted on seperate patches, so this is one...it also has the earlier pattern pressed steel end door... This one is probably of a similar vintage to the Dapol Kit Mineral wagon... The Dapol Kit... The newest is one without top flap doors, and so is meant to be the cleanest! Before being worked upon... Edited August 8, 2019 by Sarahagain photo links updated after being changed! 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Flying Pig Posted January 27, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 27, 2018 (edited) Nicely done, but you seem to have fallen into one of the Heffalump traps associated with 16t minerals. The newest is one without top flap doors, and so is meant to be the cleanest! I'm treading on dangerous ground myself here, but I believe that until the rebodying programme started around 1970, any wagons without top flaps were from batches built before about 1947 and this would appear to be what your model represents. It clearly isn't a rebodied wagon as it has bottom doors (and thus also independent brakes) and the livery is much too early. As far as I know the top flap was introduced on batches built about 1948/49. These wagons differed from the later BR standard design in retaining the bottom doors and independent brakes. I think they are the basis for the Airfix kit. Happy to be corrected on the above. Edited January 27, 2018 by Flying Pig Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ruffnut Thorston Posted January 27, 2018 Author Share Posted January 27, 2018 (edited) Interesting.... There was a big feature on the Steel Mineral wagons in Modeller's Backtrack (a much missed magazine...) some time ago. It has been some time since I read it, and it is filed away at the moment. (Full of useful details!) As far as I can remember, the Top Flap doors were more or less "demanded" by the Unions, and it took some time for BR to manage to do away with the requirement for them. They were certainly on the very first BR Standard wagons....and I believe on pre-nationalised versions as well. They were meant to make it easier to empty the wagons by hand....but in practice it seems that they were not often actually used! Too much faffing about to open and then close after use! Simpler to just knock the catches off the main door and stand well back! The Bottom Doors were also kept in the specification for some time, even if they were rarely used, and made the provision of hand brakes more expensive, as the wagons with bottom doors could not be fitted with a cross shaft (the same as for Hopper Wagons...) and so needed a full brake set on both sides of the wagon. Also the brakes were "one sided" in operation, so shunters would have to go across the tracks to get the brakes off if they had been applied on the other side from the shunter's! The wagon livery, apart from the dirt, is as supplied by Bachmann.....EXCEPT that as the bottom doors are moulded in the wagon floor, I added the "arrow" marking on the door. I do think that in fact that this wagon is a bit too modern for Ffrwd Locks' timeline of 1952-1954 though.... Edited July 22, 2020 by Sarahagain Typo Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ruffnut Thorston Posted January 28, 2018 Author Share Posted January 28, 2018 (edited) More Mineral Wagons... This time the first Bachmann 3-pack of Wooden wagons... These were maent to be pre-nationalistaion, well I have added BR "P" prefix numbers, and a bit more muck.... Before: After: Edited August 8, 2019 by Sarahagain photo links updated after being changed! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ruffnut Thorston Posted February 7, 2018 Author Share Posted February 7, 2018 (edited) I have fitted NEM pockets and NEM Kadee couplings to the Hornby 0-6-0 (Jinty type chassis, also used by other models!) My method centres on the two end screws, that hold the Hornby large tension lock couplings on, and also hold the ends of the "baseplate" to the metal chassis block. As these screws cannot be left off without the baseplate flexing, they (or similar, longer,) screws need to remain part of the assembly. You may find that you couls fit a Kadee Draft Gear Box in position, using the coupling mounting screw. (It would probably need to be a longer screw...) The height would need a suitable Kadee coupling (underset, in line, or Overset Shank) fitting. The Kadee height gauge is pretty useful... Fitting MEM pocket to Hornby 0-6-0 Chassis.. My first step is to remove both couplings, and the remaining fixing screws, then remove the base plate moulding completely. I cut the tail from a NEM socket (I use Dapol NEM couplings from a spares pack from Dapol, as these have a large flat tail with a hole, which can be cut off altogether, or shortened to suit...) Placed in the correct position I mark and drill, with a drill bit that just clears the screw, a hole through the pocket, that lines up with the coupling screw hole. I find the position by trying a pocket, fitted with a NEM Tension Lock Coupling, in place BEFORE removing the baseplate. The end of the coupling "loop" should be in line, or just in front of, the buffer head face. With the pocket in position, lined up with the screw hole (You can put a suitable screw or dowel through the holes to line them up...) I mark around the pocket, also around the protruding ends of the NEM coupling "Swallow Tail". This area, the size of the pocket, plus the coupling "tails" is cut out from the baseplate. (This will "loose" the end screw holes...) Do this for both ends.... With the Baseplate back on the loco (One of the "middle" scews holds it in place), the pocket is carefully glued in place. If the pocket is the right way up, and is level with the face of the baseplate that sits onto the metal chassis block, the height of the coupling is correct in my experience... Suitable screws can be inserted to hold the pockets in place while the glue sets. I also use plastic strip as shims if the hole cut for the pocket in the baseplate needs packing. Thick superglue, or Plastic Cement (Plastic weld, Precision Poly, Contacta Professional) can be used. The original coupling screws are now probably too short....so you need to get hold of some longer self-tapping screws of about the same diameter as the original screws. (I use some other Hornby screws that I have...) When the glue has set, I remove the baseplate, and reinforce the glue joints on the other side, that which goes against the metal chassis block. The selected NEM coupling (Kadee NEM or Tension Lock NEM) needs to be drilled through to clear the fixing screw. I do this by inserting the coupling (Make sure it is the right way up!). I then carefully and slowly drill through the NEM pocket and the coupling. This should (hopefully) only put a “notch” into the swallow tails of the coupling. The final stage is to re-assemble the baseplate onto the locomotive chassis. The end screws go through the NEM pocket and coupling, and into the metal chassis block, holding it all together. IF the NEM coupling pulls out too easily, it would be necessary to glue it in place. I have found no problems so far, and can even swap Kadee or Tension loco couplings, simply by removing the end screws, swapping the NEM couplings, and putting the screws back in.. Both types need clearance holes drilled through the tails though! Some photos... More Kadee and NEM pocket information here… www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/76497-sarahs-projects/?p=2780208 Edited August 3, 2019 by Sarahagain Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ruffnut Thorston Posted March 7, 2018 Author Share Posted March 7, 2018 (edited) Another loco that is not exactly correct for North Wales... This is the Dapol Terrier "Stepney". So far I have painted the inside of the cab, put a crew in, and moved the plastic coal down, and PVA'd some better loose coal in place. Still to do....DCC chip, Nem pockets, or plain Kadees in draft gear boxes... The smokebox door could do with coming off for removal of the BR number plate. DCC fitting and coupling mods will be done first...Any body mods will come later. . Stepney after re-coaling and cab modifcations...including cutting a hole in the cab back to let the coal out! (Not visible!) . I have fitted DCC and NEM pockets with Kadee couplings to a Bachmann (Split Chassis) GWR 93XX Mogul, and a later BM Collett Goods. The front pony truck of the 93XX took some modification... A small piece of lead had already been added....and the axle retaining tabs had needed repair with a piece of plastic card. To get the height right, all the plastic under the original weight in front of the axle needed removing carefully. The NEM pocket is reinforced and located by sections of plastic strip. The NEM pockets used come from a Parts Pack of Dapol Screw fitting NEM couplings, as these have a flat base that can be cut to length, instead of the "wedge" shape loction used on most NEM pockets. The tender coupling needed the boss for the fixing screw removing down to the level of the plastic that is across the tender frame, under the Buffer Beam. A block made from plastic strips is added behing the plastic cross member, and a NEM pocket glued in place on top, lined up to suiit the position required by a small tension lock coupling. The Collet Goods is one with the newer chassis, not split chassis, but not DCC ready. The loco had a NEM pocket on the front, and had a screw on coupling on the tender! (Bachmann seem to have done this with some locos that were only partially re-tooled!) I have put a DCC 8-pin socket in the tender, but will have to re-wire from the loco to the tender plug/socket connector I installed, as the wire I used is a bit stiff, and pushes the tender off the track when negotiating my test track Radius 2 reverse curve (Two PECO R2 Set track curves!) At present this loco has a Hornby TTS sound decoder....from the King class. The whistles are better than those in the TTS Castle decoder....but I am not so sure about the chuffing! THe Kings have smaller diameter driving wheels from the Castles, so I was hoping that the chuff rate may be better.... More testing and comparison needed (Our Dukedog has the TTS Castle decoder!). Edited August 3, 2019 by Sarahagain 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ruffnut Thorston Posted April 15, 2018 Author Share Posted April 15, 2018 (edited) Dapol and Hornby OO Gauge Terriers… The older models... Not the newer Hornby OO or Dapol O gauge models... "Fenchurch" No.672 in a "Brighton Works" livery. (2012) This loco has been restored to a later A1 format... http://www.brightonmodelworld.com/wp-conte...works_small.jpg The Dapol (& now Hornby) model is a hybrid, with A1X sandboxes on the chassis, and an A1 length smokebox (some models have a spacer ring pre-fitted at the factory to lengthen the smokebox to A1X length.). The models also have A1 (pre-re-build) splasher mounted sandboxes, the "vents" on the tank tops (from the A1 condensing system I believe), but no "wings" on the front of the smokebox/sandboxes on the footplate. Most models seem to be fitted with the added Vacuum braking ejector pipe, which runs from the cab front to the smokebox, as well as a Westinghouse Air Brake pump on the eight hand cab side, but only have one brake pipe fitted, which looks more like a Vacuum brake pipe than an Air Brake pipe… With the locos when new is a bag of parts, which can, with some modification to the base model, be used to convert the locos to other varieties. There is a pair of pipes, which are the condensing system pipes, which run from the top of the tank fronts into the sides of the smokebox (Copper coloured on Boxhill, see the recent Model Rail article). There is a plain (not Salter Safety Valves) boiler dome, and a set of Ross Pop type safety valves. I, would assume these are for one of the "sold on" locos... There is a spacer ring to lengthen the smokebox to A1X length. This fits onto the smokebox front, after this has been carefully removed (the glue bond can be strong!) from the boiler. The smokebox front mounting flange is long enough to go through the ring and still locate into the boiler. There is a set of coal rails, with a coal load moulded in. This is the simplest part to fit, as it locates into the top of the coal bunker Fitting the A1X smokebox extension ring. The smokebox front can be pretty well glued in place. It needs careful persuasion to part the glue bond. There is a small location pin on the bottom of the smokebox front, which locates into a slot in the bottom of the boiler. When the smokebox front finally surrenders, it may well be found easier to fit the extension ring over the location flange of the smokebox front with the handrail removed. The location pin on the smokebox front locates into the cut out in the extension ring. The two recesses are designed to clear the handrail knobs, but may prove too shallow. I glued the extension ring to the smokebox front, and when the glue had set hard, drilled out the handrail knob locations with a small drill, before gluing the handrail back in place. (The first attempt I made, without drilling the holes out a bit, the handrail knobs pushed the extension ring away from the smokebox front!) It will be noted that there is now no positive location pin to align the smokebox front onto the boiler! This is where care and attention will be needed when gluing the smokebox front to the boiler, to get the hinge vertical… If you are going to remove the splasher sandboxes, do not glue the smokebox front into place yet! Speaking of “vertical”, the lower handle on the smokebox door should point vertically Down, as this is the catch handle. The model comes with this handle at the “twenty-five to “ position! I carefully carved the handle away from the bottom, meeting with a cut across the top at the centre boss. I then re-glued the removed section in the correct place! I have removed the weight from the boiler (held in by a screw from underneath) and made a hole from the boiler to the motor area by chain drilling around the inside of the boiler from the smokebox end. This makes an access to the boiler from the motor area when the smokebox front is re-attached. I have not yet reattached the smokebox front; it is at present just slotted into place. I have yet to fit a DCC chip, and may need access! Removing the A1 splasher mounted sandboxes. The front splasher sandboxes need to be removed. This is not so easy, as the earlier Model Rail article found. I worked out that there are a couple of places where it is not so dangerous to cut with a fine razor saw. Cut 1 is across the diagonal from the end of the splasher, to the side of the smokebox saddle, horizontally to form the base line. Cut 2 is again a diagonal cut, but vertically downwards to meet cut 1, across the corner of the sandbox top. Cut 3 is across the remaining sandbox part, just above the top of the splasher, until just before the smokebox. The top flap thus made can be prised up with a small screwdriver (or similar), and then cut off with a sharp modelling knife. The remaining sections of sandbox then need to be carefully trimmed away, hopefully leaving the splasher side intact, and a squared off vertical flat smokebox saddle. There should be a rectangular hole. About half is in the footplate, and half in the front part of the splasher top. The first repair section I applied was a piece of plastic card, running from the rear of the splasher hole, to the position of the front of the smokebox extension ring, where it meets the smokebox front (This being plugged loosely into place to get the measurement.) The height of this plastic section should be the same as the smokebox saddle. The real smokebox saddle has a distinct concave curve to it. This could be ignored, or fiddly job made to get it right (I do not think it worth while, as the splasher and clack valve pipes would also need attention, as both are joined to the boiler!) I used round files, and put a groove into the vertical smokebox saddle side…better than nothing? Patching the holes!... The hole in the footplate is patched from the inside with a piece of plastic card. Making sure that it does not obstruct the wheels… The hole now left, in the splasher, is patched with a pre-curved section of plastic card. If required, careful application of filler should fill any gaps… I was lucky, and managed to retain the splasher lining. Check photos, but most A1X locos did not retain the tank top vents, in front of the tank filler caps. These have locating pegs that protude into the tank tank tops inside the body. In my case, using a flat item, such as the handle of a craft khife or screwdriver, I simply pushed them out from inside, breaking the glue bond. The holes were patched with plastic card squares on the inside, and plastic rod in the hole, with glue as filler. You may find some plastic sprue or rod of the correct daimeter, which could be glued into the holes, and then trimmed off flush with the tank tops. Or make small circular "blanks" to attach over the holes, like the real thing! The prominent lubricator bowls for the cylinders have been represented with brass handrail knobs, inserted into holes drilled into the smokebox saddle. I will be fitting these to the other (BR) Terrier, which represents KESR No. 3; BR 32670, which had an A1X boiler fitted by the K&ESR, but retained the tank vents, and splasher mounted sandboxes. (It does have a unique bunker extension though!) On these A1 sandboxes, the lubricators are mounted on the front, nearest the smokebox. On A1s the lubricators are in the same place, on the smokebox wing plates. Vacuum, Air or both forms of braking? From photos, Stepney has had the Westinghouse air braking system removed. . (By BR I believe...) http://www.semgonlin...eam/a1x_07.html This loco is preserved in A1X (Re-built) condition, with extension "coal rails" on the bunker, but in Stroudley livery. The Westinghouse Air Brake system and pump has been removed, therefore this loco should only have vacuum pipes on the buffer beams, and the Vacuum ejector pipe on the Left Hand side of the boiler. Dapol and Hornby models seem to all come with this pipe fitted. It is the plastic pipe that runs from the front of the cab to the smokebox. The vacuum brake control would be mounted on the rear of the cab front where the pipe joins the cab. The Westinghouse pump also seems to be a standard fitting, on the right hand cab side. On Vacuum only braked locos, this needs removing. (It is best to see a photo of the real version of your loco to check!) This is held on by two pins in two holes, and can be carefully prised to break the glue bond. The holes then need plugging. Colour matching touch up paint may be a small problem…. Brighton Works, No. 32635 Brighton Works, No. 32635, in the September 1962 photo (Earlier Model Rail article, and on the web.), was dual braked, and retained the Westinghouse pump. https://mikemorant.smugmug.com/Trains-Railw...nes/i-XTCjrdh/A From.... https://mikemorant.smugmug.com/Trains-Railw...R-tank-engines/ There is a photo of the Westinghouse pump side on this site...which is also of more general Brighton interest! http://thebrightonmotivepowerdepots.yolasi...on-loco-men.php This loco also has both Air and Vacuum brake hoses on each buffer beam. The standard fitted brake pipes most closely, in my opinion, resemble Vacuum brake pipes. I fitted two new brake pipes from a batch of spare parts. I think they may be Dapol parts These, being smaller, make very good Air Brake pipes. Couplings and DC fitting. Kadee couplings, or NEM sockets, are still to be fitted. DCC is still to be fitted. Edited July 31, 2020 by Sarahagain Typos corrected Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ruffnut Thorston Posted July 22, 2018 Author Share Posted July 22, 2018 (edited) Oxford Rail 6 Wheel 'Toad' Later Plated Version...ModifiedThe Later 'Plated' versions of the Oxford Rail GWR 'Toad' Brakevans have a few small problems....The plating does not extend to the ends....The 'rear' window is wrong. (Being apparently based on a preserved Toad with modifications!)There are two lamp irons on the 'rear' sides, that should not be there. (Very early Toads had hatches in the sides to allow side lamps to be placed on these lamp irons, but the model does not have the hatches....which were done away with by the GWR anyway!)Dismantled Toad...there are two screws under the NEM pockets. The body is a bit awkward to remove, as the spigots of the buffers protude through the buffer beams, and get in the way of removing the body...the body is also a very good fit onto the base...But with much struggling I succeeded in parting the parts from each other!The base, whch has some details, which are basically invisible when assembled. The representation of the stove is not very good though!The body inside...the partition is not glued in place, so can be removed easily...Chassis underside, shewing the screw holes ....access will usually involve removing some ofthe delicate brake rodding!The 'rear' window and the side windows,are one piece of clazing, glued in place. The large 'wrong' window was cut out very carefully from the two side windows. The window framing was cut out very carefully, and the framing around the outside of what should in fact be a hatch to allow acess to the 'rear' lamp bracket, made good. I used a new Hornby GWR Toad model to copy the details!The two side windows were kept to one side, to be re-fitted after painting...The hole was patched on the inside with a plasticard patch, slightly bigger than the hole. The hatch was made from plasticard scribed for planking, and glued into the hole.Plating on the 'rear' was added using plasticard, again the Hornby model was used as a pattern....unfortunately, I got two thicknesses mixed up, and the 'rear' plating was made too thick....and I didn't notice until it was glued in place! Some rivet detail was added by using a pointed tool on the 'inside', using the Hornby Toad as inspiration!The 'rear' lamp iron needed moving. The actual iron is metal, 'L' shaped, and fits into a hole. The base of the lamp iron is moulded into the body...so this needed carving off, and a new hole and lamp iron base added to the plating...The two 'rear' side lamp irons were removed, lamp iron bases carved off, and the small holes filled.The 'front' or veranda end was plated in the same way....but I used thinner plastic card this time!A representation of the lever to operate the 'rear' sandboxes mounted on the veranda side of the partition was made from a piece of wire, painted with a white end. Also, some plastic strip and rod was used to make a representation of the veranda end sanbox operating lever and rods...Again copied from the Hornby model...The result is not in any way perfect, as the framing should be on top of the plating....but I think it looks a bit better than planking?The body was re-painted BR unfitted stock grey, as there was a small diffeence in the colour applied by Oxford Rail.New lettering (Croes Newydd) and numbers to be added....and the small holes need a little more filling.... Edited July 22, 2018 by Sarahagain Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ruffnut Thorston Posted August 17, 2018 Author Share Posted August 17, 2018 (edited) Something I have been working towards for some time now...A model of the Brush Type 4 Co-Co (Class 47) D1677 named 'THOR'...This was actually the second '47' to receive the nameplates August 29th 1966), as the first, D1671 (September 1965), was scrapped after being involved in a fatal accident on the night of December 16th/17th 1965 , involving derailment by a landslip and susequent collision with a Class 37 (EE Type 3 Co-Co), D6983, which was also scrapped....http://class47.co.uk/c47_numbers.php?s_loco=1671D1677 was later numbered 47 091 (1974), then 47 647 (1986), then 47 846 (1990)http://class47.co.uk/c47_numbers.php?index=6&jndex=2&kndex=77&s_loco=1677This is a Lima body (Lima L204633) in BR Two tone green with yellow front and cab windows, on a Hornby Railroad chassis, with TTS DCC Decoder fitted.The nameplates are from Modelmaster.I have removed the old numbers, 47 369 and backdated the cab areas into Yellow Panel livery, from the Yellow end and windows.The new numbers are 'Wolf' rub-down from Modelmasters.....a pity there wasn't a complete number for D1677, it was fun!The WR 'red' route restriction dots are from the HMRS BR 'steam' sheet.I have also cut out the headcode boxes, and drilled out the tail lights....and fitted a driver in each end.Lighting is a distinct possibilty.....sometime! The headcodes are temporary ones, from an old Hornby Class 37 sheet....Couplings are Kadee NEM, #18 or #19 I think.... Edited August 20, 2018 by Sarahagain 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ruffnut Thorston Posted November 29, 2018 Author Share Posted November 29, 2018 (edited) The Mainline Railways (Palitoy) "Dean Goods" (1982-1985) compared to the current Oxford Rail "Dean Goods"...The Mainline model has had new, narrow, tension lock couplings fitted in place of the Mainline pattern originals. Edited November 29, 2018 by Sarahagain 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ruffnut Thorston Posted December 25, 2018 Author Share Posted December 25, 2018 Wishing you all a happy Christmas.I hope you all have a good time....we will be doing our best here! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ruffnut Thorston Posted December 31, 2018 Author Share Posted December 31, 2018 Wishing you all a happy new year....as we pass (later, but I may well be asleep by then! ) from 2018 into 2019! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ruffnut Thorston Posted May 5, 2019 Author Share Posted May 5, 2019 (edited) Hornby Terrier, the new version. R3767. BR Lined Black, Early Crest. 32655 (Stepney). General views....after I had installed a loco crew, and changed the colour of the reverser lever and regulator....and the gauge glasses. The extra pipes, which fit under the buffer beams... Initial modifications... All locos deserve a crew! The gauge glasses look better (IMO) in white than "Copper" or "Brass", and the Reverser is not likely to be made of Brass or Copper, as it would likely bend! (It is coloured "Copper" or "Brass"as it comes. The Regulator is plain black as it comes....I prefer it in red! Getting into the cab...body dis-assembly. The body, boiler, side tanks, cab and bunker, are held onto the metal footplate by 7 screws. one into the smokebox, two each side into the side tanks, and two into the cab/bunker. The cab seems to be clipped to the boiler, but there are a few pipes from the boiler that are probably glued into the holes in the cab front....I did not try to part the cab from the boiler as I did not relish trying to get the pipes back into their holes, even if they were not glued in! DCC Decoder Fitting. The 6-Pin socket is in a position that precludes the use of most, if not all, direct plug 6-pin decoders. There are two screws that hold the body and footplate assembly onto the chassis, as detailed in the instructions. The front screw is under the NEM coupling pocket, which needs to be removed to access the screw. The Hornby R7150 6-pin decoder has a short wire harness and 6-pin plug. The wires are just about the maximum length that can be folded over the decoder, and still fit inside the body. Some insulating tape is a very good idea to cover the exposed connexions, and prevent the decoder coming into contact with any metal... It is one of very few 6-pin decoders that can be fitted, it would seem....I have got the Hornby decoder, and fitted it to mine. Less hassle for me. Couplings. I have fitted Kadee NEM couplings to my Terrier. #19. The NEM pockets on the Terrier are at the correct height when seated properly, but the Kadee couplings require packing under the shaft inside the pockets, otherwise they are a bit of a loose fit and droop. Coupled to a Hornby Ex LNER Class O1 tender chassis...again the NEM pocket is at the correct height.... Edited November 4, 2020 by Ruffnut Thorston Edited to add information... 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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