DaminKeenan Posted October 22, 2013 Author Share Posted October 22, 2013 Love it - be interested to know how many cars each track/spur/loop holds - and the layout size - may just be an answer to my dillema. The layout can fit about eight cars (plus the engine). I've found that operation is more fluid if you designate fewer car spots than what the track can physically handle. This gives you some crucial "breathing room" and keeps the layout from becoming an awful "move the empty space" puzzle. The runaround on the "mainline" (center track) can fit three cars. The front siding (the one coming off of the runaround track) has one designated car spot, although the track can clear two freight cars. Each of the back sidings have two designated car spots, although a locomotive and two covered hoppers can fit on the left-hand track and clear the wye of the switchback. The layout consists of two 6' sections and an 18" extension off of one end. The main sections are 14" deep. The layout was originally built as a shelf layout that sat on a trio of plastic shelving units in my old apartment. The length of the wall, and the depth of the shelves determined its size. Many have asked if it's a Timesaver. And the trackplan is very similar. Honestly, I wasn't thinking of the Timesaver when I designed it. I just played around with Atlas's free trackplanning software until I found an arrangement that I liked. Thanks, Damin. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaminKeenan Posted October 22, 2013 Author Share Posted October 22, 2013 A nice little(?)layout you`ve got there Damin,do you plan to add a couple of building flats for the industries? I may built a flat for track with the HERX and ATSF boxcars on it. I've mocked up a warehouse in Photoshop using textures from a Clever Models disk. I also have a hydrocal kit that I'm planning to finish off as a small, municipal building that would sit beside the tracks across from the fenced-in siding. I really don't have a lot of room for structures. And, I like the idea keeping the layout minimal. That way, I can change eras just by swapping out the rolling stock. Thanks, Damin. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
shortliner Posted October 22, 2013 Share Posted October 22, 2013 Many thanks for the info Damin - I'd be thinking about an HO version Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaminKeenan Posted October 22, 2013 Author Share Posted October 22, 2013 On topic,I assume your Geep is DDC,so if it is what decoder are you using. I have a Soundtraxx Tsumani TSU-1000 for the sound effects and a Digitrax DH465 for the motor. The Tsumani only has a 1 amp output which is insufficient to drive the Pittman motor that the Weaver came with. The Digitrax has a 4 amp continuous output and 6 amps peak, so I went with a dual-decoder setup. I don't think either decoder supports decoder locking, so I have to take the body shell of in order to program them individually (something I had to do twice on the day before the layout was scheduled to go to the meet -- needless to say I was not a happy camper that morning. Fortunately, they behaved during the show itself). I plan to install micro-switches on the underside of the frame to allow me to isolate the decoders for programming. The lighting functions are split between the two decoders. Thanks, Damin. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaminKeenan Posted October 22, 2013 Author Share Posted October 22, 2013 Many thanks for the info Damin - I'd be thinking about an HO version Shortliner, If I were to build the layout again, I'd consider getting rid of the switchback arrangement in the back. Instead, I'd have both sidings come directly off of the mainline and cross each other with a diamond. That way you can switch each siding independently from the other. With the current arrangement, I have to pull the cars from the left-hand siding in order to gain access to the right-hand siding. I then have to figure out where to put those cars so that their out of the way while I switch the other track. It's doable, but it's a pain in the butt. Thanks, Damin. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Parthia27 Posted October 22, 2013 Share Posted October 22, 2013 Shortliner, If I were to build the layout again, I'd consider getting rid of the switchback arrangement in the back. Instead, I'd have both sidings come directly off of the mainline and cross each other with a diamond. That way you can switch each siding independently from the other. With the current arrangement, I have to pull the cars from the left-hand siding in order to gain access to the right-hand siding. I then have to figure out where to put those cars so that their out of the way while I switch the other track. It's doable, but it's a pain in the butt. Thanks, Damin. Hi Damin, Just seen pictures of your O Scale Switching layout on your MRH blog and I have to say I'm impressed. I love the minimalist nature of what you have done and I hope you don't mind but I have just drawn up a HO version in Rail-modeller which comes in at 180 x 30 cm without the staging cassette (which could be about 60 cm in HO). Would you have a problem if I used your plan to produce something similar in HO? I am recuperating from a stint of illness atm and I have been scratching my head for something to build for which I can just buy a board, plop down track I have, add some simple scenery and operate with the detailed BN stock I am accumulating. I have to say this has provided me with a real ray of light following a few days procrastinating about what I should do. Thanks for the inspiration. I just wish I had the space and time to do O scale, your work looks amazing. Cheers ChrisM Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaminKeenan Posted October 22, 2013 Author Share Posted October 22, 2013 Just seen pictures of your O Scale Switching layout on your MRH blog and I have to say I'm impressed. Thanks! Would you have a problem if I used your plan to produce something similar in HO?... I have been scratching my head for something to build for which I can just buy a board, plop down track I have, add some simple scenery and operate with the detailed BN stock I am accumulating. No problem at all! In fact, that the same reason I originally built my own layout. Except, in my case, it was an IHB 0-8-0 off of eBay! Thanks, Damin. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaminKeenan Posted October 23, 2013 Author Share Posted October 23, 2013 Come to the Dark side.... Come to O Gauge.... I think I might put that on a T-shirt and wear to the next show that I bring my layout too! - Damin. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
shortliner Posted October 24, 2013 Share Posted October 24, 2013 Shortliner, If I were to build the layout again, I'd consider getting rid of the switchback arrangement in the back. Instead, I'd have both sidings come directly off of the mainline and cross each other with a diamond. That way you can switch each siding independently from the other. With the current arrangement, I have to pull the cars from the left-hand siding in order to gain access to the right-hand siding. I then have to figure out where to put those cars so that their out of the way while I switch the other track. It's doable, but it's a pain in the butt. Thanks, Damin. Thanks for that Damin - Apolgies for not replying sooner, but a little "nasty" sneaked past the firewall and inserted itself where it shouldn't - Much cussin & swearin' ensued whilst trying to dig it out again!. Chris - looks like we have a similar mind-set! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Parthia27 Posted October 24, 2013 Share Posted October 24, 2013 Thanks for that Damin - Apolgies for not replying sooner, but a little "nasty" sneaked past the firewall and inserted itself where it shouldn't - Much cussin & swearin' ensued whilst trying to dig it out again!. Chris - looks like we have a similar mind-set! Hi Jack, hope u r ok with me muscling in, it is such a good concept that I cannot ignore it and a perfect project to do whilst I'm in 'recovery mode' for the next month or so. Cheers Chris M Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
shortliner Posted October 24, 2013 Share Posted October 24, 2013 < eerie music > Jaaaack, Jaaaack, .... Come to the Dark side.... Come to O Gauge.... It is warm here, and there is Scotch and Haggis..... < eerie music off > Andrew - Strangely, I bought a tee-shirt a couple of weeks ago in Tescos that says "Come to the Darkside" which I'll be wearing at Glasgow next year! O scale is too big for my wee heelan' Hobbit hole unfortunately - I have enough fun and games with HO Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
shortliner Posted October 24, 2013 Share Posted October 24, 2013 Hi Jack, hope u r ok with me muscling in, it is such a good concept that I cannot ignore it and a perfect project to do whilst I'm in 'recovery mode' for the next month or so. Cheers Chris M No problem at all, Chris, I suspect that yours will be done before mine though- I need to build an extension board to the ones I have - and dismantle another one to recover a Y-turnout - unless I go with Damins suggestion of the diamond and crossed tracks - however I 'm quite intrigued with the layout "as is" - shifting cars increases the "thunking factor" - easy is boring! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
shortliner Posted October 30, 2013 Share Posted October 30, 2013 I like that - and there are certainly a few HO-bbits around! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Stewart Posted December 17, 2013 Share Posted December 17, 2013 Would an Atlas O part work for the handbrake? Colin Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
trisonic Posted December 17, 2013 Share Posted December 17, 2013 Or the old standby of Guitar/Bass (wound) strings for the hoses? Once painted they look fine. Best, Pete. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
trisonic Posted December 18, 2013 Share Posted December 18, 2013 I agree with you - particularly in 1/48 scale.... You'll need fine needle nose pliers to get the right bends in guitar strings (before you paint). Of course I tend to have a selection of old ones... Show us what you come up with. I've always enjoyed improvising with "found things". Best, Pete. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaminKeenan Posted December 18, 2013 Author Share Posted December 18, 2013 Have found the stanchions and handrails as a set and these will be ordered hopefully this weekend. Where did you find stanchions and handrails as a set? Inquiring minds want to know! - Damin. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave_long Posted December 18, 2013 Share Posted December 18, 2013 How about using solder, you can get different diameters if you look hard enough, alot of HO modellers use it for cabling and trunking under the sills especially on Geeps, might work as mu cables. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaminKeenan Posted December 18, 2013 Author Share Posted December 18, 2013 I found them at Des Plaines Hobbies <www.desplaineshobbies.com> Now you'll have to call them, as their email answering is at best spotty. But they do have them. Do you have a part number by chance? Also, are they metal or plastic? Thanks, Damin. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Stewart Posted December 19, 2013 Share Posted December 19, 2013 Do you have a part number by chance? Also, are they metal or plastic? Thanks, Damin. Damin They are metal and will be very nice if the GP9 stanchions are anything to go by and should fit straight into the GP38 frame. You supply the handrail wire. I think these parts were originally calscale, whatever they are nice. Des Plaines also does fuel tank castings for the weaver GP38. Colin Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Stewart Posted December 20, 2013 Share Posted December 20, 2013 Andrew There were Weaver GP38-2 fuel tank replacement parts in the range that Des Plaines bought which became their O Scale America line alas no experience of these but if the quality of the rest is anything to go by they will be fine. On the subject of the Weaver fuel tank our own "F Unit Mad" Jordan came up with a nice solution to the extended fuel tank on his SOO ex Milw GP40 Colin Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.