Owd Bob Posted January 2, 2019 Share Posted January 2, 2019 Happy New Year CME. It looks really nice just left as it is, i had hopes of buying myself another wagon this xmas but as usual real life stuff got in the way. Ah! Well never mind as there's a train and toy show on at the local Middlebrook football stadium this Sunday, i might just rob the gas bill cash out the drawer when swmbo is out. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CME and Bottlewasher Posted January 2, 2019 Author Share Posted January 2, 2019 Thanks OB! I wanted to do a light touch with the weathering on this one and so added Slaters hoses and CPL lamp brackets home made chalking boards, instanters and some fettling of mass production anomalies... Go on splash the cash mate (LOL), the later batches of these vans have less anomalies and require less fettling plus run well. TTFN, M. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CME and Bottlewasher Posted February 1, 2019 Author Share Posted February 1, 2019 When one builds a garden railway does one consider the extra weight of snow? Hopefully we've been belt and braces, only time will tell eeeeek! 5 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CME and Bottlewasher Posted February 10, 2019 Author Share Posted February 10, 2019 Hi all, Does anyone know how easy it is to work/rework diecast? Thanks in anticipation. ATVB CME Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted February 10, 2019 Share Posted February 10, 2019 Assuming diecast as in Dinky Toys, it’s quite hard, but eminently workable with normal metalworking tools. if you want an example, Yorkshire Dave on WT has reworked a 7mm double decker. best simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CME and Bottlewasher Posted February 10, 2019 Author Share Posted February 10, 2019 Hi Simon, Thanks, obliged. Im not on WT. It's Chinese diecast (so as to add those LWB brass buffer assemblies, from a previous Post). I guess I'd like to know if its similar to work as white-metal? Proximity of detail means power tools would be awkward. ATVB, CME 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted February 11, 2019 Share Posted February 11, 2019 Ah, no, much harder than whitemetal, you’ll not cut it with a scalpel, for example. But hand files and drills will be ok, maybe a bit slower than the powered versions! best Simon 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CME and Bottlewasher Posted February 11, 2019 Author Share Posted February 11, 2019 (edited) Hi Simon, Thanks, I did wonder. My mate sent me this photo for demonstration purposes, we are not sure who took it and I don't have a good link, so, sadly I can't seek permission or acreditted it. If there are any issues, I'll take it down. The photo however demonstrates my challenges quite well. I have a few ideas on how to attack it, the buffers are perfectly sprung but cosmetically they detract. There is a brand of white-metal and steel buffer I've been told will fit but they're less detailed than the LWB versions. Atvb CME Edited February 11, 2019 by CME and Bottlewasher 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted February 11, 2019 Share Posted February 11, 2019 (edited) That looks very much like the pre-production version of the Dapol 08 which I saw at Reading December show about 3 years back. The footplate appears to be Zamak/Mazak/Diecast, and the buffer stocks appear to be brass - presumably they are glued in, hopefully not rivetted. If they are glued, application of the soldering iron would probably soften the glue, without damaging either the brass or the zamak. NMRS probably do the correct buffer & stock, Graham is very helpful, usual disclaimers, of course. They have cast w/m stocks and turned steel heads. But will the ones you have not fit? Once you have the brass ones out, I'd guess the hole in the bufferbeam is more or less the right diameter. With a bit of luck they'll fit straight in, with a drop of something to secure them, why would you have to machine or modify the diecasting? I'd certainly increase the hole diameter in the loco rather than try to reduce the spigot on the buffers. Go slow, hand drill, drop of spit as a lubricant, and a sharp drill, should be ok, if you need to open it out of course. best Simon Edited February 11, 2019 by Simond 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CME and Bottlewasher Posted February 11, 2019 Author Share Posted February 11, 2019 (edited) Hi Simon, Thanks for the comprehensive advice, very much appreciated. Pretty much agreed on all counts. Yes that is the preproduction EP of the 08. Graham is indeed very helpful and does do some similar buffers, I buy my MK1 sets from him. Seems a shame to duplicate/splash out for more though. My challenge? Whilst the buffer shanks will pull out (very easily as one has almost done so already out of the box). Its the thickness of the moulded base plates. I suppose I could machine down the rear of the replacement buffers' baseplates if they match the size (square section) of the existing ones. I know that Dapol 08 has its foibles, but apart from some light detailing/weathering the only thing that I can't live with, sticks out like the proverbial - to my eyes - are the buffers (and their lack of detail). Thanks again, ATVB, M. Edited February 11, 2019 by CME and Bottlewasher 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted February 11, 2019 Share Posted February 11, 2019 Ah, yes, i see the issue. Is it not possible to make some tread plates & glue them on the existing buffer stocks? Addition of some dummy fasteners should be relatively easy too. A bit fiddly, I grant, but probably easier than any other surgery you might have to undertake. best Simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CME and Bottlewasher Posted February 11, 2019 Author Share Posted February 11, 2019 Hi Simon, That was my first thought, not sure how easy it would be to make the bolthead detail on the square baseplates though. And of course the shape and lack of finesse would remain. Come back Lima 00 all is forgiven! Needs some more thought and those LWB buffers (MMP) are very nice.... Atvb M. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CME and Bottlewasher Posted March 10, 2019 Author Share Posted March 10, 2019 I've been weathering the fantastic white metal Shunters Gig which I purchased from Steve F. I've added GWR pattern instanters, put in some extra bolt head detail using tacky glue (I might do the same with the 08), just debating who's lantern brackets to add (for robustness and finesse). I won't be adding 'auto' couplings, until I've operated it with a loco for awhile (and see which end to place them at and which version at which end etc). I also have brass M2 SG which I'm part way through building. And I'm compiling photos and data for it. I'm not sure if I've weathered the SG correctly as many photos of the prototype are, in colour, of rebuilds/new vehicles. In service photos are B&W which only hints at weathering. So as the SG is allocated to Swindon, but out based (for RAF Down Ampney), and thus not a 'pet', I've weathered it as a moderately cared for, slow moving, left out in all winds and weathers, BR vehicle. 2 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CME and Bottlewasher Posted March 13, 2019 Author Share Posted March 13, 2019 Here's my WIP view (apologies phone camera in iffy light) of the SG, undergoing light fettling and weathering. As this a BR version, with some variants being fifty years old, and having worked in the same area, and not a 'pet' I presumed that BR replacement planking would be left unpainted and/or worn (ala wooden coal wagons). 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
47606odin Posted March 13, 2019 Share Posted March 13, 2019 at the depots i worked at, step boards got painted, floorboards left in raw timber 1 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CME and Bottlewasher Posted March 14, 2019 Author Share Posted March 14, 2019 (edited) Thanks Odin, How long, may I ask, did the paint last on the Stepboards? Also what era are you speaking of and what locos were you running the SGs with? If you had colour photos, that would be marvellous, please feel free to post them on here. Thanks in anticipation. Regards, CME Edited March 14, 2019 by CME and Bottlewasher Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
47606odin Posted March 15, 2019 Share Posted March 15, 2019 (edited) I am talking generally, not a specific wagon type or era, however I’m talking late 80’s into the 90’s, working on wagons, units and coaches. The black stayed on nicely, although faded and some peeling with age and dirt. Where there was heavy usage the paint and board would obviously wear down and round off a little on the edge. you need to bear in mind, raw wood can be slippery when wet, so steps should be painted no photos, but it would wear as you would expect with foot traffic Edited March 15, 2019 by 47606odin 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
101 Posted March 15, 2019 Share Posted March 15, 2019 Yes stepbards were painted and sand was thrown on the wet paint before specialist anti slip paints were available 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CME and Bottlewasher Posted March 15, 2019 Author Share Posted March 15, 2019 (edited) Hi fellas, Thanks both. Thanks 101 you have completed the missing piece of the jigsaw that had been troubling me. Living close to Swindon as a child many of my neighbours were gainfully employed in 'the works' or 'inside', and/or railwaymen. I remember, now, with your prompting, one commenting on adding grit/sand to paint to make the surface safe/grip. Wood and painted wood would be slippery when wet. It is also a trick that I watched my father do when repairing boats, before anti slip/grip paints were available. In model form? I'm still undecided whether or not to use a mask and then apply a painted surface/model wear effects or leave as is. With thanks, CME. Edited March 15, 2019 by CME and Bottlewasher Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CME and Bottlewasher Posted March 20, 2019 Author Share Posted March 20, 2019 (edited) Hi all, During a tea break, or three, and with the aid of certain editions of the GWRJ, AFAICT, the footboards on SGs were painted grey/black (maybe with sand for grip)......BUT most close up photos of in service, unkempt vehicles, indicate that the footboards had little or no paint left and the woodwork was very rough (plenty of grip, regardless of sand/paint mix?). I'm considering my options - maybe a light wash of grey (over a mask), or similar, or leave the footboards as is, ie a grubby self coloured wood effect. Retentive? Maybe, but I like to understand how things work and to do thorough research (a resource investigator roll from times gone by and identified as such aged 21 from Belbin tests), as initially we are; unconsciously unaware, consciously unaware, consciously aware and then, hopefully, unconsciously aware (second nature) when it comes to learning. And history/background is a nice pastime in of itself and helps make us better modellers. More photos to follow in due course. Atvb CME Edited March 20, 2019 by CME and Bottlewasher 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CME and Bottlewasher Posted May 28, 2019 Author Share Posted May 28, 2019 (edited) Well after loosing my model-making mojo, its slowly coming back and I'm awaiting bits to finish several projects (inc the Shunters Gig). Minor repairs to outdoor baseboards and repairs to fox damaged fence.....more to follow with photos in due course. Atvb CME. Edited June 6, 2019 by CME and Bottlewasher typos/grammar 2 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CME and Bottlewasher Posted June 6, 2019 Author Share Posted June 6, 2019 (edited) More repairs to baseboards, not major but fiddly. Therefore riddle me this, why do my garden baseboard bolts, even when rusty shed their nuts (no sniggering at the back!)!? True the boards move a bit in weather and sun, but I've dealt with 5 loose ones and now I have one seized half way down the thread and one completely gone....WTH?! Have I got gremlins in my garden? Also right so and so to get at and do up in situ. Even with ratchet ring spanners. I've only ever used nylocs, lock nuts on vehicles and machinery, baseboards don't go anywhere in a garden, thus shouldn't need them. I love garden rlys but boy are they hard work at times. Atvb CME Edited June 6, 2019 by CME and Bottlewasher 1 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CME and Bottlewasher Posted June 6, 2019 Author Share Posted June 6, 2019 And last night.....still no more track laid, because..... More baseboard bolts loose, very loose (more to do at ground level). Unless - forgotten about - plastic packing has fallen out, or has been 'eaten'. I can't fathom it! I've tightened such up, replaced nuts, checked boards levels /trueness and they all seem four square and true. VERY weird. Also some side stripping had come away and some moisture/water had gotten under the felt. No major rot (baseboards were treated with SBR on saw cuts plus top & bottom, plus wood proofing including a wax treatment etc), stuck a screw driver in, marginally soft but not rotten. So I plastered area with tar reaffixed edging and MRF. Plus used my patented sealing ballast technique for the shrunk edges of the MRF. Checked this morning and none if it was dry (light shower in the night).....today is bright with light wind, hoping sun will get on it and dry it. If not I will have to do it all again......its going to piddle down tomorrow. We never had this hassle with dad's line (The H&BLR). 17yrs and a bit of board movement and minor rot on that line. My line? Its been a big challenge thus far! NOT for the fainthearted! Photos to follow soon. Kindest to all, CME 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Owd Bob Posted June 6, 2019 Share Posted June 6, 2019 (edited) Is the wood shrinking and expanding so much over time? i doubt it...so i'm stumped! Edited June 6, 2019 by Owd Bob 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CME and Bottlewasher Posted June 6, 2019 Author Share Posted June 6, 2019 (edited) Hi OB, Thanks for trying to help. I don't think the boards move all that much, TBH. The ones closer to ground move more, admittedly, due to clay/ground shift. Maybe packing pieces have fallen out - but IIRC, the two posts I've attended to recently didn't have packing they didn't require such. Its a mystery to me. Perhaps I should be retro fitting nylocs? We will see, this time next year LOL! Kind regards, CME. Edited June 6, 2019 by CME and Bottlewasher Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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