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Dallam Sidings (Warrington) - N Gauge WCML 2001


87023Velocity
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19 hours ago, 87023Velocity said:

Bit more done on the BDA, bolsters drilled out and stanchions made out of square brass rod fitted, some of these have been bent slightly. The load is 1mm square rod sprayed with primer. Will probably do some dry brushing to give a dull metal effect. Also need to add some strapping to hold the load down. 

 

Cheers

 

Simon

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Loving your spurt of weathering. I need to get on with mine really.

 

Just a note on the BDAs. I mention this as I was slapped when I did my 4mm ones and ended up redoing the decks.

 

The decks could really do with a bit more work to represent the weathered wood. The wood tends to go grey.

 

Heres what I ended up doing with mine.

 

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They look very nice Cav. Yes noted about the deck, it was on the to do list on a post further up. I have dry brushed a light matt grey on then mixed and brushed some powders in. However this has made the grey darker but as its loaded I think will be ok. If running unloaded I would go for the effect you have done.

 

I think its basically done except for a coat of matt varnish, going to do all the freight stock in one hit. The strapping for the load is made from Tamiya masking tape cut into strips. I was surprised to see Farish have moulded the frame so you can correctly feed the straps through as per the prototype.

 

Cheers

 

Simon

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On 18/02/2019 at 21:08, 87023Velocity said:

Hi Rich,

 

Thanks, they are by Revolution models, see here:

 

https://railsofsheffield.com/manufacturer-revolution-trains-JJJM154?page=1

 

cheers

 

Simon

 

Hi Simon,

Thanks for the reply.  A combination of your goodself and Dallam Sidings, Duncan with Shirebrook and Cav with Burton-on-Trent, has pushed me to give N a try again.  So thanks to the above post, I have now acquired three of the Revolution IZAs, only another 10 to go for the train I am looking to model!  Luckily the first three we all acquired for less than £115, so a bit of a bargain there!  Starting to proceed with the trackwork, now.

 

2 hours ago, 87023Velocity said:

They look very nice Cav. Yes noted about the deck, it was on the to do list on a post further up. I have dry brushed a light matt grey on then mixed and brushed some powders in. However this has made the grey darker but as its loaded I think will be ok. If running unloaded I would go for the effect you have done.

 

I think its basically done except for a coat of matt varnish, going to do all the freight stock in one hit. The strapping for the load is made from Tamiya masking tape cut into strips. I was surprised to see Farish have moulded the frame so you can correctly feed the straps through as per the prototype.

 

Cheers

 

Simon

 

 

 

 

If you (or anyone else reading this) needs any further insights into BDAs, let me know.  Living near a steelworks (and taking pictures of wagons as well as the trains) I have photographed loads of the things over the years!  Happy to forward a few if  anyone wants any weathering, loading or stantions for inspiration!

 

Rich

 

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The BDA is nice in N and OO. The 4mm one also has the slots for the straps.

 

I can't justify more steel wagons for BoT though, I already have a rake of BBA's and a rake of Tiphook VTG coil hoods.

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Next project on the workbench, class 08 respray into RES livery as 08802. Progress so far, the basic colours airbrushed on, black to spray around cab doors/windows.

I have too many 08's, I only really need one, maybe should model Arpley yard!

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Hi Simon,

Can you explain how the 08 comes apart.... I have removed the chassis but never disassembled the body, I need to paint one of mine into 3T Grey but have not wanted to damage the body in the process.... your help would be appreciated.

Cheers

Duncan

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Absolutely love this layout.  Quality of the modelling and attention to the weathering really is excellent- it's a great inspiration.  Was a frequent visitor to WBQ up until the mid nineties so brings back good memories.  

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4 hours ago, Duncan. said:

Hi Simon,

Can you explain how the 08 comes apart.... I have removed the chassis but never disassembled the body, I need to paint one of mine into 3T Grey but have not wanted to damage the body in the process.... your help would be appreciated.

Cheers

Duncan

Hi Duncan,

 

First the plastic moulded brake rigging needs removing, this should just unplug.

Remove the 4 screws shown at locations below:

The body and underframe moulding can now be lifted away from the motor block and wheels.

The cab needs to be unclipped, the locating lugs highlighted need to be gently pushed out so the cab can slide off. Once the cab is removed, the glazing can be taken out - I left the main cab windows in situ as I kept the Farish wasp ends. I could not clip the cab back onto to show this as the paint is still hardening.

 

Hope that helps

 

Simon

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That's fine thanks Simon. I'm just being lazy really but I have never had to strip down the various body parts. Do I understand correctly that the lugs on the cab move outwards to the sides and the cab slides 'backwards'?

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10 minutes ago, Duncan. said:

That's fine thanks Simon. I'm just being lazy really but I have never had to strip down the various body parts. Do I understand correctly that the lugs on the cab move outwards to the sides and the cab slides 'backwards'?

Hi Duncan, apologies I have not explained that well, the lugs move outwards then you slide the cab upwards, if you note on the picture of the main body, there is a recess in the moulding which the cab slots onto.

Cheers

 

Simon

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On 06/03/2019 at 12:22, 87023Velocity said:

Hi Duncan, apologies I have not explained that well, the lugs move outwards then you slide the cab upwards, if you note on the picture of the main body, there is a recess in the moulding which the cab slots onto.

Cheers

 

Simon

There's no stopping me now!

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It's all looking good Simon. No further on with my shunter, I've been out walking up Pen-y-ghent today, very windy and cold. I will be doing one body as 08418 in triple grey and making a vacuum only 08 (one of the Shirebrook allocation), I think both will require some body mods.

Regards

Duncan

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  • 2 weeks later...

Evening Simon,

It is interesting to see the developments with the weathering. I was taught to use a paler shade to create the fading effect as opposed to using a drop of white in varnish. I have to say I like both methods, I hope when you come along to a Shirebrook Running Day you will bring some items of rolling stock so when can compare our models side by side. In the shot below all the locos have been faded with a paler shade of the base colour. Your comments would be appreciated, sorry there's no 08!

Cheers

Duncan

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Hi Duncan, yes  both methods work and yours certainly look stunning. This method with adding the white to the varnish is something I had not tried before so was quite interested to see how it would turn out. The other method I have used for fading is applying coloured washes or I think they get called filters, needs a bit of trial and error though (or that's what I found!) but does work. 

Just noticed in the picture at the very back some OTAs, are these Slimrails (Chivers)? I have just placed an order for 10, may get another 5 in the future. 

 

Cheers

 

Simon

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Hi Simon,

The OTA's are by Slimlines.  They are very nice model. Extreme care required when handling during assembly and painting -the stanchions are very easily broken off. They will only go round gentle curves I can't get them all the way around Shirebrook yet, I need to order some long 3D printed couplers and replace the ones fitted currently, but this then throws up the added difficulty of trying to avoid breaking the stanchions! It's one of those jobs that get put on the back burner. Another shot of the OTAs for you below. The strapping is vinyl tape cut down to an appropriate width.

Cheers

Duncan

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Hi Duncan, they look very nice. Regards your comment about the couplings on curves, is it the couplings causing the issue or is buffer locking occuring?

I have a rake of C Rail PFA Cawoods coal wagons, very light weight and the couplings are fixed in position. To allow more movement on curves, the corner was trimmed as shown in the pictures below (top wagon not modified). This was not my idea, think it was Law Junction were I read about it. At the moment I am running a 24 wagon rake with no problems, as mentioned no weights added, though considering adding 5 more wagons to the rake so may need to add a little weight then to prevent them being pulled over on the return curves.

 

Cheers

 

Simon

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Hi  Simon,

I have had problems with my Cawoods containers too! I will try this modification, and will check on the OTA's also. Now this is how RMweb is supposed to work, the exchange of info and ideas! Excellent, thanks Simon

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