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Thanks for posting the picture of JH too. Always good to see.

 

Not sure why United Counties have an Eastern Counties Bedford OB on loan? ;)

 

Cheers,

 

Mark

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Really shows off the benefits of static grass nicely. ;)

 

 

Cheers Mark.

Santa is bringing me a static grass machine with a bit more clout for Christmas, so grassy areas will extend in the new year.

Well spotted. Ivor has made an excursion into the Fens. jointly Chambers was standing in the way at the bus stop at Juniper Hill when the weekly bus arrived and had to be moved on

Happy Christmas

Alex

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Cheers Mark.

Santa is bringing me a static grass machine with a bit more clout for Christmas, so grassy areas will extend in the new year.

Well spotted. Ivor has made an excursion into the Fens. jointly Chambers was standing in the way at the bus stop at Juniper Hill when the weekly bus arrived and had to be moved on

Happy Christmas

Alex

 

Which grass machine, Alex? I'm pondering such an item.

 

Regards,

 

Hal.

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Hi Hal

I've just got the one by wwscenics, which they were demonstrating at RM web live in Coventry. I used it last night and am really pleased with the results.

The static grass in the pictures was done with the FMR tea strainer one, which is a lot cheaper, but not as good for larger area, and it won't cope with longer fibres.

All of the are a bit of a struggle round the edges of buildings, or when a more precise application of grass is needed.

If you haven't already seen it I'd also recommend Gordon Gravett's "Modelling Grassland" book which is full of ideas and techniques.

 

Alex

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Hi Hal

I've just got the one by wwscenics, which they were demonstrating at RM web live in Coventry. I used it last night and am really pleased with the results.

The static grass in the pictures was done with the FMR tea strainer one, which is a lot cheaper, but not as good for larger area, and it won't cope with longer fibres.

All of the are a bit of a struggle round the edges of buildings, or when a more precise application of grass is needed.

If you haven't already seen it I'd also recommend Gordon Gravett's "Modelling Grassland" book which is full of ideas and techniques.

 

Alex

 

Thanks Alex, that's interesting. It's the unit I've favoured in my comparisons uptil now.

 

The Gravetts are incredible. I've been promising myself their tree book but wasn't aware of the grass one. In an urban layout where embankments feature strongly, it looks like the grass volume will be my first choice'

 

Your modelling really is first class, and now - understanding the limitations of the tea-tool - I'm even more impressed. Certainly, an applicator that deals with longer fibres is a must for the ultimate effect. I look forward to the additional work you do with the new unit. Before and after shots of areas you treat would be very interesting, particularly for those who (I know a couple) have convinced themselves that the strainer will do all they need.

 

Cheers,

 

Hal.

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I’ve taken some “before and after shots” of my first experiment with the new static grass applicator. In previous entries I have described the construction of a stable block for Diddington, which was installed in the fields adjacent to the engine shed.  The field had been given a basic covering of static grass using a simple applicator, and this is shown in the first picture, with the hole cut for installation of the stables.

post-6772-0-69852100-1419761023.jpg

Once installed, the field in front of the stable was reworked. The first step was to tidy up the existing scenery, by gently scraping back the existing grass (not completely) and levelling up the ground in places with Polyfilla. The fence between the field and track was then installed. I’ve used Ratio fencing, though I think it should really be post and wire. The fence comes in straight lengths, and these were gently bent to follow the profile of the land, and mounting spigots in the form of lengths of plastic cocktail stocks were glued to the rear of the fence. The fence sections were sprayed with various mixes of Tamiya grey and earth colours, and the fence was glued into holes drilled in the scenery.

The path was made by painting the area of the path with Humbrol dark earth enamel, and while it was still wet, sprinkling it with fine ash through a metal tea strainer.  The areas to be grassed were then painted with dilute PVA, and the whole given a coat of 4mm static grass fibres. This was left to dry for a few minutes, then the excess was gently hoovered off. The grass was then built up further by overspraying some areas with hairspray, and giving those areas a further coating of longer (6mm) fibres.  Weeds and bramble were built of using Carrs dark green scatter either direct over more hairspray, or on to a web of gently teased out pastiche (theatrical hair), stuck in place with more hairspray. Undergrowth at the base of the fence was also built up using pieces of Woodland Scenics clump foliage, glued in place with PVA, and covered with more scatter.

post-6772-0-73973400-1419761147.jpg

 

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Lovely work as always Alex. How are you finding your new static grass machine? I was about to buy the FMR one (and a balloon, following the recommendations here: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/64167-static-grass-tips-and-techniques/?p=1687374) to start grassing up Buckden, but your comment makes me worry it might not have the oomph to do nice long tatty grass embankments.

 

Marcus.

Edited by Ivatt46403
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Excellent! And thank you for the thorough tutorial. I shall have need of it!

BTW:I've ordered the Gravett book from Amazon. I'm really  looking forward to its arrival. He and his partner are cutting edge in the scenery department.

 

Regards,

 

Hal.

Edited by HAL 'O THE WYND
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Lovely work as always Alex. How are you finding your new static grass machine? I was about to buy the FMR one (and a balloon, following the recommendations here: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/64167-static-grass-tips-and-techniques/?p=1687374) to start grassing up Buckden, but your comment makes me worry it might not have the oomph to do nice long tatty grass embankments.

 

Marcus.

Thanks Marcus.

 

There's a place for both types of grass machine I think. I bought a large one partly because i had some quite large areas to cover (but in this respect the FMR one was doing all I asked of it, albeit not as quickly, but I wanted a machine that could cope with longer grass fibres (Up to 10mm for the reeds in the river, which I haven't tried yet.) and the FMR machine can't cope with the longer fibres - (it has difficulty with anything longer than 4mm I find). Where the FMR one has the advantage is for finer detailing, such as grass growing through cracks, where the new one is too large to wield effectively.

I'll recommend the Gravett book again - I know I keep mentioning it, but that's how useful I find it.  I have no connection at all to the Gravetts save as a very pleased reader of the book. (I spoke to them briefly at the Plymouth show I think when they were exhibiting their Dolgoch layout about 20 years ago, but they won't remember that!)

 

Looking forward to seeing more of Buckden in due course.

 

Hal, I'm glad you fount the details helpful. Since I posted, I've found a better section for a "before and after" feature, but it will be a couple of months before I get to it. Good luck with yours, and post some pictures when its done.

 

Alex

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  • 2 weeks later...

Refurbishing the scenery has reached the private siding now. I'm taking some pictures of the work as it progresses and will put these up in a couple of days. In the meantime here are  some pictures with trains in place.

First, a picture of Juniper Hill's J94 "Cranford" entering the mill siding

post-6772-0-35616400-1421188134.jpg

 

Next, class 15 D8233 is seen with a couple of vans for the mill.

post-6772-0-69979200-1421188161.jpg

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Just come across this layout. A superbly atmospheric rendition of the Fens.

 

I hope you don't mind wiggoforgold but I couldn't resist turning a couple of your bridge shots into B&W. I feel it really gives it that very late 50's early 60's look like the photos of the time.

 

post-7090-0-16817600-1421191135_thumb.jpg

 

post-7090-0-14875500-1421191162_thumb.jpg

Edited by westerner
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I don't mind at all Alan. I have tried to do exactly the same thing with some of these photographs, to try and get the atmosphere of 1960's black and white shots. It's always interesting as well to see other people's interpretations of things you have made. Someone took a photo of the bridge at the RM web members day which I liked so much I used it as my Facebook cover photo for a while ( with their permission)

The scene in the photograph is evolving. Close observation will show how it has changed since the shot in the BRM annual was taken in April last year. I still want to add a bit more in the way of a couple of swans for the river ( a rather fierce one used to live under the bridge) and I have already made a heron to sit on one of the bridge piers. I also need to add more fencing where the track approaches the bridge, and adjust the height of the middle telegraph pole in the row approaching the bridge.

All that said, I don't want to crowd the scene, as I have found that the impression of spaciousness is enhanced by keeping incident restrained.

Thanks for you interest

Alex

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I have just read through this topic for the first time and the quality of the modelling, and particularly the scenery techniques/treatment and finishing is superb. Your explanations of your modelling process are very helpful.

I join many others...nice work

 

Andy R

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Thanks for all the kind comments. I feel I'm on a bit of a roll with the layout at the moment. I can finally see quite clearly in my mind's eye what i am trying to achieve, and I finally feel (after about 10 years) that the scene is coming together in the way I intended. I think the biggest thing I've learned is the "less is more" approach, I'm trying to keep the feel of open countryside and not crowd it with too much incident. Allied to this has been a conscious reduction in the size of buildings, for example all the buildings in the station and goods yard are smaller buildings than those originally installed. For example, the original goods shed was a Prototype Models kit of Little Bytham goods shed (I know, wrong railway, but Diddington has been moved some 30 miles to the East) and this was replaced by a Wills wooden shed and a Ratio provender store.

One of the effects of my current level of enthusiasm is a single minded approach to Diddington. I had a number of other ideas, but they are all firmly on the back burner. I wonder what effect the Hornby J15 will have when it arrives?

Alex

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  • RMweb Gold

............. I wonder what effect the Hornby J15 will have when it arrives?

 

 

Reinstatement of the turntable..........  :D

 

 

 

 

Likewise looking forwards to the arrival of the J15 and a renumber to a 32A loco.

 

Cheers,

 

Mark

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  • RMweb Gold

Here's something to whet the appetite!

 

https://www.flickr.com/photos/64518788@N05/7702923984/in/set-72157630560555614

 

65457 making her way towards Cambridge-Next stop Cranford.

 

For those interested in Northamptonshire railways Ken Fairey's collection is worth a look.

 

Cheers,

 

Mark

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I have just stumbled upon this layout and I like what I see, very well done.

 

The name intrigued me because I live nearby, just a few fields away in Buckden. From the A1 south all you see is the church, the village is further way to the east and now the large bushes have gone more is to be seen but it is only a fleeting glimpse.

 

The other side of Buckden is/was the remains of the old Buckden station with the route to Kettering west and north to Huntingdon. Thanks a bunch Mr Beeching.

Part of the route there was bridged under the A1 north and the bridge is still in use although it has been reduced to a single lane by the massive concrete buttresses to keep it standing. Ah those were the halicon days. David

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Hello Austrag

I used to live in Hemingford Grey, about 4 miles the other side of Huntngdon. I used to cycle through Buckden at least once a week on my way home from the St Neots cc club time trials.

The Cambridge-Kettering line is something of a hidden gem, and a number of people on here are modelling it. Marcus (Ivatt46403) who posts on this thread is making a model of Buckden station and Mark (46444) is something of an expert on the line.

The line makes a nice subject for a model. The trains are small, and much is available Rtr. With the advent of the Hornby J15, the main omission would be the BR2 78xxx, but I think this would be a fairly straightforward conversion of a Bachmann 2mt. I'm slightly surprised no one has produced an aftermarket etching for this.

I took some pictures of the signal box at Buckden back in 1978, which you will find in my blog..

Alex

Edited by wiggoforgold
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As I mentioned previously, refurbishment of the scenery has reached the Mill siding.  I’m trying to get the effect of overgrown track, while retaining good running.  The problem is that in order to have good running, the rail surfaces need to be kept spotlessly clean, so weathering of railheads is out of the question. Further, a flange way needs to be maintained inside the rails. If this is not present, rough running, lack of electrical conductivity, or both result. Finally, having applied static grass and having thoroughly cleaned up afterwards, I still found I had rough running on the Middle Fen section. As running was fine before the static grass was applied, I think the problem was very fine fibres of static grass lying on the railheads, causing rough running as the wheels rolled over them. More cleaning reduced the problem, but didn’t give a total cure.

Refurbishing the Mill siding has given a chance to apply what I have learned so far. The track was first thoroughly cleaned. The sleepers were painted with a thinned mixture of NATO Black, Dark Grey and Red Brown. (I’d run out of matt earth or I would have used that as well.) The rail sides were painted with Modelmates rust, which dries to give a rusty effect. When it is dry, brushing with a clean, stiff brush can further enhance the effect.  The railheads were thoroughly cleaned. When all this was clean and dry the track was ballasted with chinchilla grit, sprinkled on to pva glue, painted between the sleepers.  When dry, the excess was hoovered off, and the result looked like this:

 

post-6772-0-90160400-1421614349.jpg

 

The ballasted track was then sprayed lightly with Modelmates mud brown spray dye, which dulled down the sleepers, and blended the ballast and track in to the surrounding scenery.  The whole area was then lightly sprayed with water from a plant spray, and dilute pva was painted on areas where grass was to grow. Static grass was then applied, and the excess was hoovered off after about 20 minutes, to give the effect of grass growing through the ballast.  The effect was further enhanced by sprinkling fine ash on the pva while the grass was drying.  By the gate, the ground was painted with dilute pva. Fine ash was lightly sprinkled on this  leaving patches of glue showing through. Static grass was then immediately applied, and the excess was hoovered off after a few moments. Don’t leave it too long before hoovering off the excess otherwise more static grass will adhere than was intended, giving rather too much grass growing through. After this stage, the overgrown track looked like this:

 

That's all for now. I'm off to some more overgrown track.

 

Alex

 

post-6772-0-45104600-1421614279.jpg

 

A gate gives access to the Mill siding. This was made up from plastic strip.  A plan of the gate rails and cross members was drawn on a piece of wood, and clear double sided tape stuck over this. This allowed the bars of the gate to be stuck to the plan for assembly. The completed gate was glued in holes drilled in the scenery.  The short length of fence from the gate to the hedgerow was made from a piece of Ratio fencing. The slope was too steep for the Ratio fence to be simply bent to shape, so all the vertical members except for one end were cut off, which allowed the fence the be bent to shape, before the posts were glued back in place, making sure they were vertical , bearing in mind the slope of the land.  The signboard was soldered up from a short length of rail and a piece of etched fret, and glued in a hole bored in the layout.

 

post-6772-0-38254500-1421614465.jpg

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