Popular Post will5210 Posted October 30, 2013 Popular Post Share Posted October 30, 2013 (edited) Hi all, This will be the workbench for stuff I'm bodging together for my Ardlui layout set in the late 1930s. Don't expect to much in the way of 'showcase' modelling, but I enjoy myself & isn't that all that matters? Anyway, here's what I've cobbled together so far: K4 'Lord of the Isles' Bachmann K3 chassis, Hornby L1 wheels, Scratchbuilt boiler with Alexander fittings, Shortened Bachmann B1 tender. Still needs a few bits & pieces tidying up & finishing (tender needs varnishing) DSC01767 by will5210, on Flickr DSC01768 by will5210, on Flickr K4 'Loch Long' As above but with an Alexander models tender this time. Its on Gibson wheels atm but these will come off & be used on a J39 (probably) DSC01769 by will5210, on Flickr Station Building Scratchbuilt around a clear plastic shell. About 80% finished, still needs flashing, gutters & a few other bits here & there. West Highland Station building - Work in progress! by will5210, on Flickr Signal Box (Cruel close up!) Finished, but I''m not completely happy with the downpipes so I may redo them at some point. DSC01772 by will5210, on Flickr In the 'to-do' pile are a Gem D34 (which I've tentatively started), Nucast K2 & maybe a J38, J39, J36 + J37 or 2 along with various wagon kits. Thanks for looking in. Edited September 27, 2014 by will5210 21 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted October 30, 2013 Share Posted October 30, 2013 The K4 hybrids are interesting. I take it you've reused the Bachmann K3 footplate and cab? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
will5210 Posted October 30, 2013 Author Share Posted October 30, 2013 (edited) The K4 hybrids are interesting. I take it you've reused the Bachmann K3 footplate and cab? Thank you. The K3 running plate is used unchanged. Technically its 2mm too short & on my upcoming 3rd K4 I may lengthen it, but on these 2 I left it. The cab of the green K4 is stock Bachmann with the larger boiler hole patched, but on the black one I cut out the cab front & replaced it with one with front windows which better matched the shape of the K4. These photos should help explain: K3 cab patched DSC01730 by will5210, on Flickr K3 cab with cut out DSC01739 by will5210, on Flickr Replacement spectacle plate DSC01738 by will5210, on Flickr Fitted DSC01742 by will5210, on Flickr DSC01754 by will5210, on Flickr A marginal improvement, but worthwhile I feel. Cheers Edited October 30, 2013 by will5210 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted October 30, 2013 Share Posted October 30, 2013 Some months ago, I did wonder if I could use the South Eastern Finecast K3 etched chassis, footplate and cab as the basis of a K4 in P4. Dave Bradwell produces a suitable tender. Still looking at the logistics. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
will5210 Posted October 30, 2013 Author Share Posted October 30, 2013 Some months ago, I did wonder if I could use the South Eastern Finecast K3 etched chassis, footplate and cab as the basis of a K4 in P4. Dave Bradwell produces a suitable tender. Still looking at the logistics. Well, I think that would produce a good model with the slight compromises in footplate length & cab front I discussed above. There's also the Alexander models K4. Are there issues with springing preventing it being built to P4? Cheers Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted October 30, 2013 Share Posted October 30, 2013 Well, I think that would produce a good model with the slight compromises in footplate length & cab front I discussed above. There's also the Alexander models K4. Are there issues with springing preventing it being built to P4? The Alexander K4 chassis would require a little modification for springs, whereas the SEF K3 chassis would not. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
will5210 Posted October 30, 2013 Author Share Posted October 30, 2013 Ah I see. Well if SEF are willing to sell you a chassis on its own I'd say that putting that under the Alexander body would be strictly the most accurate option. Though the components you described + a Hornby B17 boiler suitably butchered could work too. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earlswood Nob Posted October 30, 2013 Share Posted October 30, 2013 (edited) G'day all The actual K3 chassis was 7'6+8'9 and the K4 7'3+9'0, but I don't think I could spot 1mm difference in the middle axle spacing. SE Finecast supply their chassis separately. I bought one to replace an old Triang/Hornby chassis in a Wills K3 body kit that was one of the first locos that I built (c1970), but I haven't built it yet. The SE Finecast A3/W1 chassis units are amongst the best I have built, and the K3 looks the same. Atlantic 3279 on the LNER forum converted a Hornby B17 superstructure to a K4. I think the K4 boiler/firebox length is 8mm less than the B17. Dave Alexander does the 3500gal tender with high front, that was only fitted to the K4's and V4's. Keep up the good work Earlswood nob Edited October 30, 2013 by Earlswood Nob Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
will5210 Posted October 30, 2013 Author Share Posted October 30, 2013 (edited) G'day all The actual K3 chassis was 7'6+8'9 and the K4 7'3+9'0, but I don't think I could spot 1mm difference in the middle axle spacing. SE Finecast supply their chassis separately. I bought one to replace an old Triang/Hornby chassis in a Will K3 body kit that was one of the first locos that I built (c1970), but I haven't built it yet. The SE Finecast A3/W1 chassis units are amongst the best I have built, and the K3 looks the same. Atlantic 3279 on the LNER forum converted a Hornby B17 superstructure to a K4. I think the K4 boiler/firebox length is 8mm less than the B17. Dave Alexander does the 3500gal tender with high front, that was only fitted to the K4's and V4's. Keep up the good work Earlswood nob Hi, I'm pretty sure K3 & K4 share a common wheelbase (middle axle pushed pack for middle cylinder clearence maybe?), whereas K2, V1 & V3 use the tradtional GNR 7'3" + 9'0". I'll check my drawings. Edit: The drawings I have (Ian Beattie - Locomotives of the LNER) have K3 & K4 with 7'6" + 8'9" Cheers Edited October 30, 2013 by will5210 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Cram Posted October 30, 2013 Share Posted October 30, 2013 According to the RCTS book 6a both had 7'6" and 8'9". 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earlswood Nob Posted October 30, 2013 Share Posted October 30, 2013 (edited) Afternoon all Apologies to everyone As Paul says the green book indicates 7'6+8'9, and it's amazing how memory plays tricks and recalls something that wasn't put there. Earlswood nob Post script: I used to have a photographic memory, but now I just don't get the picture Edited October 30, 2013 by Earlswood Nob 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted October 30, 2013 Share Posted October 30, 2013 .... I used to have a photographic memory, but now I just don't get the picture That's what happens when you get a touch of the Polaroids - you become a late developer. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nelson Jackson Posted October 30, 2013 Share Posted October 30, 2013 Superb work on the buildings and k4s, I will definitely follow this thread with interest. I'm guessing your using plasticard for the buildings? I may be wrong, if I am then, what material are you using please? Thanks Nelson Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
will5210 Posted October 30, 2013 Author Share Posted October 30, 2013 Superb work on the buildings and k4s, I will definitely follow this thread with interest. I'm guessing your using plasticard for the buildings? I may be wrong, if I am then, what material are you using please? Thanks Nelson Hi Nelson, I'll try & find some pictures of the construction later, but basically I used 1mm clear polycarbonate for the shell of the building as I can get plenty of it free from work! The brickwork on the bottom half is metcalf brick paper on the station building & embossed plastic on the signal box. Window frames are strips of sticky back vinyl, though if I were doing it again I'd use plastic strip & clear-drying superglue like 'Sandside' uses on his Bacup buildings. The roofs are the same clear plastic with strips of printed slates stuck on. cheers Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
forest2807 Posted October 30, 2013 Share Posted October 30, 2013 Lovely work. I will keep a close eye on this as I'm about to do a K4 using a Bachmann K3 body, B17 body and a Dave Alexander tender. I'm currently trying to source a Bachmann K3 chassis and then I can get cracking. Thanks for posting this, it has inspired me to move my project up the 'to-do' list. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
will5210 Posted October 30, 2013 Author Share Posted October 30, 2013 Lovely work. I will keep a close eye on this as I'm about to do a K4 using a Bachmann K3 body, B17 body and a Dave Alexander tender. I'm currently trying to source a Bachmann K3 chassis and then I can get cracking. Thanks for posting this, it has inspired me to move my project up the 'to-do' list.Hi, I still think the B17 boiler is the best way to go as you get all the firebox fittings ready to go. I just couldn't face sanding off all those boiler bands! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted October 30, 2013 Share Posted October 30, 2013 Apparently the B17 firebox was the basis of the K4 one anyway, so that old Hornby moulding seems as good a place to start as any. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
will5210 Posted October 31, 2013 Author Share Posted October 31, 2013 'Loch Long' got its first coat of black last night. Tonight I'll swap the driving wheels & remove the NEM pocket from the pony truck (which makes a big difference to the front end) DSC01778 by will5210, on Flickr 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Portchullin Tatty Posted October 31, 2013 Share Posted October 31, 2013 Looks great and it is good to see West Highland models in the slightly earlier period. What is the precise timezone you are aiming for? Could I caution you that Gibson wheels do not appreciate being taken on and off too much as the plastic to the boss gets a bit damaged. I would leave them as they are and grace Colin Seymour with a few more pounds I am afraid. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
will5210 Posted October 31, 2013 Author Share Posted October 31, 2013 Looks great and it is good to see West Highland models in the slightly earlier period. What is the precise timezone you are aiming for? Could I caution you that Gibson wheels do not appreciate being taken on and off too much as the plastic to the boss gets a bit damaged. I would leave them as they are and grace Colin Seymour with a few more pounds I am afraid. Hi, I'm aiming for the immediate to WW2 period really, which sadly means my buildings are the wrong colour really but I'll have to sort that another day.. I also imagine 'Loch Long' would have been painted Green by 1939 but I like the variety of having a black K4. Thanks for the heads up on the wheels. With the benefit of hindsight I'd have standardised the K4s with Gibson wheels as they are a little finer than the Hornby ones, but the lure of ready painted & lined Apple green ones for a tenner was too great! Thanks for looking in! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
forest2807 Posted October 31, 2013 Share Posted October 31, 2013 Hi Will How easily did the Hornby L1 wheels fit the Bachmann K3 chassis/valve gear? Did you use a Hornby wheel for the pony truck too? I was going to use the original Bachmann K3 wheels and live with the fact that they are 6" too big but if Hornby L1 wheels can be used I might give it a go. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
will5210 Posted October 31, 2013 Author Share Posted October 31, 2013 Hi, the pony truck is the original Bachmann one. The wheel & axles are Hornby & with the bearings removed & the Bachmann gear added after scratching some grooves in the axle for the gear to grip. With the valve gear, I buy a spare L1 set & swap the return crank onto to Bachmann gear (an expensive way of doing it but at least you get a perfect fit). I also use the Hornby coupling rod bolts. The Bachmann driving wheels are undersized for the K3 (a scale 5'4" I think) so they're not far off for a K4. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
forest2807 Posted October 31, 2013 Share Posted October 31, 2013 Cheers Will, I didn't realise the Bachmann K3 drivers were undersized. If they are only a scale 2" out for a K4 I think I'll reuse the whole Bachmann chassis and wheels under my K4, and save a lot of time and expense buying and fettling the L1 parts! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
will5210 Posted October 31, 2013 Author Share Posted October 31, 2013 This evenings tinkering: NEM pocket removed from pony truck, Hornby L1 driving wheels added, buffers & vac pipe added to tender, ride height & cylinder height adjusted with plasticard. DSC01781 by will5210, on Flickr DSC01782 by will5210, on Flickr DSC01792 by will5210, on Flickr cheers 9 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nelson Jackson Posted October 31, 2013 Share Posted October 31, 2013 Simply beautiful, superb work on her she would grace any layout with pride, well done. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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