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Removing transfers from Bach/Far N gauge stock.


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Hi all,

 

Does any one know the best way to remove transfers from the Farish by Bachmann rolling stock without damaging the original finish?

 

I am looking at putting new transfers on in different positions on the SPAs I have to add variety to my stock, to get away from all of them looking the same. I was thinking of using a cotton bud dipped in thinners, rubbing the transfer until it works loose.

 

I would be grateful if any one has/knows the best way to remove these.

 

Regards,

 

Robert

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Guest Celticwardog

Hi

 

Thinnner/bud may work but the usual method seems to be the use of a fibreglass pencil. You can get them from shows, basically a bundle of fibreglass fibres bound together. Watch out though, they are completely evil and will shed and prickle. Another option would be micromesh. This is a SUPER fine wet and dry made I think by Alclad who make metallic paints. Given that the usual grade of fine wet and dry is 2400 I have micromesh with a grade of 12000!  It will take off transfers but not damage the plastic.

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I used a fibreglass pencil for a long while but it always seemed to create a large rough patch which looked very obvious after the new transfers went on. Probably more my ham fistedness than anything else!

 

I use a sharp knife now and rub very gently at the number/name and it works a treat.

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Have used either lighter fluid with cotton buds or brake fluid with cotton buds with success over many years to remove transfers.

 

You do need to work slowly & carefully but I have found I have obtained a great finish doing this without damaging the paint finish beneath.

 

I steer away from fibreglass brushes solely because of the skin irritation I suffer from the fibres after use but I know modellers who would use little else.

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Guest Celticwardog

Yes as I said they are evil. To be honest I threw mine away (waste of £10.50!) and would only use one again if I had access to a hazmat suit! I only mentioned as others seem to like them and often mentioned in mags.

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Micromesh is the best I find .it is expensive but lasts forever .I have used in trains ,model cars where a perfect finish is needed and even my guitar .You can even polish the paint to make it better for waterslide transfers to be applied .

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Thank you all for the advice. 

 

I used fine wet-and-dry on a wagon that I was going to repaint, but could not get a satisfactory finish to it. In the end I have decided to leave the wagon unpainted and to cover the affected area with Precision Extra Pale Satin varnish. The finish with this is very similar to the finish of the unpainted wagon. Luckily for me, it hides the scratches that would have otherwise ruined the model. It just leaves me to put on the transfers to finish the model.

 

In the end I opted for the white spirit/cotton bud combo to remove the transfers. Lighter fluid might be a better option and I might try this on the next model to determine if the difference is worth it???

 

Regards,

 

Robert.

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Farish transfers are very easy to remove and all you need is a blunt knife to take the top of the transfer off and then quickly wipe over with a cotton bud with a little thinner. Various techniques are needed for different manufactures but you are lucky that Farish is by far the easiest.

 

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I renumbered/renamed some Farish Mk1 Pullmans by rubbing off the originals with a cock-tail stick (or tooth pick). The same technique worked for renumbering and changing the sector markings on a class 37.

 

A quick rub with a but of thinners can help make the job a bit quicker but isn't essencial.

 

Happy modelling.

 

Steven B.

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