Jump to content
 

Dremel multi type tool for scratchbuilding


nrg710
 Share

Recommended Posts

  • RMweb Gold

I do like my Dremel on its lower speeds, but I am planning to purchase this http://www.amazon.co.uk/Dremel-26150220JB-Workstation/dp/B0012RQG94/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1384029799&sr=8-1&keywords=dremel+stand  before I do much more with it.

I have the earlier version of that stand and it is about as much use as a chocolate teapot!

 

Being a single pillar with the z axis control built into the drill clamp, it is very sloppy and can move out if alignment by as much as 2 mm off centre when downward pressure is applied

 

The problem is in the design, and no end of packing and sleeving/machining has made it any better.

 

I also have the old twin tower minicraft drill stand and that is a far superior device.

 

BTW did any one else get their Minicraft drill with a 3 jaw chuck attachment rather than a collet and sleeve?

 

The only problem with the Minicraft drill is when they are overloaded they burn out their 'clucth clutch' which is a rubber union between motor and shaft.

 

I was lucky enough to buy a bag of them, but also am wary of overloading the drill.

 

My last Aldi drill failed suddenly, but a quick strip down (rather than sending it back under warranty) revealed a misaligned motor brush which was soon sorted out.

 

As an aside, (and I'm not boasting about the number of drills I have) how do you all 'deploy' your various mini drills?

 

Mine are:

 

Dremel 240v:            Permanently fitted to Dremel routing table

Minicraft 12v:            Permanently mounted in drill stand

Powercraft 240v:      Bench mounted with  flexible shaft

Powercraft 240v:      Complete boxed set in modelling box (for use at club and shows)

Powercraft 240v:      In general toolbox

 

Every time Aldi have their Powercraft accessory sets on sale, I buy another.

 

There is a large box in my workshop with all the various bits and pieces from these sets grouped together in plastic bags, so replacing  the broken/worn/missing is easy...It must be my logistic training :no:

 

However, I never seem to use may grinding wheels, and probably have over 50 at present:  Unlike the mandrels which seem to vanish pretty quickly.

 

Regards

 

Richard

Edited by Happy Hippo
Link to post
Share on other sites

BTW did any one else get their Minicraft drill with a 3 jaw chuck attachment rather than a collet and sleeve?

 

Yes, mine has a nice three-jaw chuck which runs very-true: I`ve had my 12v. minicraft for donkey`s years now and it`s done some serious work (incl. building several 12"-1ft. composite aircraft). I modified the outer-casing early on to allow more cooling airflow (as the motor felt very hot in my hand in prolonged grinding use).....I run it off an old 12 amp. battery charger (with selenium full-wave rectification), which also has a 12/6volt. selector; the latter reigns-in the speed perfectly for using teenie-weenie bits.

 

Not had much luck with Dremels; the bearings don`t seem like S-glass and carbon-fibre dusts; I`ve been through several in the time I`ve owned the little Minicraft.

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

 I modified the outer-casing early on to allow more cooling airflow (as the motor felt very hot in my hand in prolonged grinding use)....

 

 

Thanks Debs,

 

Excellent idea, especially if running clamped in the stand which fouls the cooling slots

 

Yet another job to add to the list

 

Regards

 

R

Link to post
Share on other sites

Yet another job to add to the list

 

The vents work well and are simple rectagular holes with expanded aluminium-mesh (sourced from a frying-pan anti-spatter guard) wedged inside the casing to keep birds/children etc. out of the motor......I`m sure the extra cooling has helped with the drill`s longevity.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes, my Minicraft has a three jaw chuck too. Clever modification Debs. I see that yours has a pistol type grip, mine just has the switch on the end.

 

As for types of Drill and usage;

 

Expo. 12v. The oldest, now 'retired' though it still works, last used for stirring paint (I use a cocktail stirrer now, hasn't done much for my cocktails)

Minicraft. 12v. Main drill in use.

Powercraft 18v Pencil type, back up for the Minicraft.

McKellar. 18v. (Focus DIY chain own brand). Virtually identical to the Powercraft drill, still in box!

Woolworths. 240v. Bench mounted with flexible shaft, wobbles a bit so used with burrs, wire brushes, polishing mops etc.

Dremel rechargeable, not surprisingly it's a bit heavy, doesn't get much use though it's a nice bit if kit.

 

The Woolworths and Focus drills were bought very cheaply in their respective closing down sales.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Despite having 3 (dremel mains, tchibo mains, and a lidl rechargeable modelling tool), the one I use most is a Parkside (from Lidl) 3.6volt rechargeable screwdriver, with a handle that can be rotated to give a pistol grip, for which I have 2(1 large and 1 small) chucks on HEX shafts (+ one very tiny one from Micro-mark that holds very small bits and fits into the larger chuck). It turns much more slowly than the mains ones and is ideal for very small holes

Link to post
Share on other sites

I've thought of one of those, but wasn't happy with the chuck fitting into the hex...it gave an unacceptable level of play.

 

Any news on the gauges Debs?

Edited by JeffP
Link to post
Share on other sites

I've thought of one of those, but wasn't happy with the chuck fitting into the hex...it gave an unacceptable level of play.

I found that a couple of turns of kitchen foil, or several turns of clingfilm around the hex shaft, took enough play out to hold it reasonably rigid - it is a bodgers tool after all!   B)

Edited by shortliner
Link to post
Share on other sites

I have used Minicraft and found it OK but the Dremel is a much better tool for accurate jobs .It runs very true and I was surprised just how accurate it was when I was making brass  fittings for patterns .You may not need that kind of accuracy though and for polishing and  rough grinding etc any old drill will probably suffice .

Link to post
Share on other sites

I found that a couple of turns of kitchen foil, or several turns of clingfilm around the hex shaft, took enough play out to hold it reasonably rigid - it is a bodgers tool after all!   B)

Now you're talking.

Next one I see at a reasonable price at B&Q on a Wednesday......

Link to post
Share on other sites

I wouldn't be without my Dremel tools - have the rechargeable and the Digital (series 4000?) mains unit plus the aforementioned drill stand, router attachment and a host of other bits.

 

They replaced my minicraft units as they wore out and give sterling service.

 

Tried a couple of cheap copies but they gave up the ghost fairly rapidly unfortunately.

 

As well as railway modelling I have used them for cars, household jobs, making theatre props and a host of other tasks - the lithium cordless unit has seen a lot of service at shows for on-site layout repairs.

 

Can't honestly see why you wouldn't want one.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I have the earlier version of that stand and it is about as much use as a chocolate teapot!

 

Being a single pillar with the z axis control built into the drill clamp, it is very sloppy and can move out if alignment by as much as 2 mm off centre when downward pressure is applied

 

The problem is in the design, and no end of packing and sleeving/machining has made it any better.

 

I also have one and largely agree. The mount for the dremel is plastic and allows a fair bit of movement with very little force. I have wondered if there was anyway to use a cable tie to hold the dremel hard against the stand to reduce the play but I don't think it is possible.

 

As to the Dremels, I have 2. One was bought new about 15 years ago and has been hideously abused in the garage. Still works well despite the heavy use. The other is a new one and not sure it will last as well, but is being kept out of the garage so I don't get it covered in oil!

 

All the best

 

Keith

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

I have the earlier version of that stand and it is about as much use as a chocolate teapot!

 

 

I'll second that. I've only used it briefly for one job, so I haven't had a chance to really look into it, but it was a bit sloppy.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I use the Minicraft most of the time, I have a mains powercraft one  upstairs mainly used for track cutting with a sliting disc. I try and avoid colletts, all mine except a Lidl one have chucks, I tend to mislay or lose colletts and I find them a PITA having to keep swapping them when you change bits

 

If I want really accurate I use the milling/drilling attachment on my Unimat Lathe (the older all metal one, not the more recent plastic job.

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 7 years later...

Hi everyone,

 

I just started trying to use my Dremel (given to me as a present a couple of years ago by my late wife) for the first time ever with a cutting disc.  I have only used the tool a few times in the past for drilling holes and it's been good.

 

As soon as I switch the power on the mandrel immediately bends severely!  Before even applying the disc to the item to be cut!  Happened twice now! 

 

Before I go off to the model shop to purchase a third mandrel, could anyone be kind enough to advise me what I'm doing wrong? 

 

Thanks. 

PICT0127.JPG

PICT0128.JPG

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium

Bit of  a head scratcher, this one.

 

I take it that the Mandrel is pushed fully home, and not just held by the tips of the jaws?

 

Also, that the Mandrel IS being held centrally in the chuck.

 

Also, that the discs themselves are punched centrally, no offset, which might unbalance it.

 

Other than that, my only suggestion is to try and contact Dremel themselves.

 

Regards

 

Ian

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Even an unbalanced cutting disc shouldn't bend the mandrel like that, What happens if you put a new mandrel, without a disc, into the chuck and run it up? Is the mandrel running true?

 

There's something seriously wrong here - as Mick suggests, the mandrels might well be poor quality, but even so, this is unusual.

 

Something bent like that, running at speed, can do some serious damage :o

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks very much Ian, Mick and Mark for your responses.

 

I have ordered a pack of mandrels the same as the ones Mick has suggested.

 

I am obviously very wary of using this tool with a cutting disc.  However, a friend of mine of has come up with the suggestion that I may be powering it up too suddenly at maximum speed.  The Dremel is very fierce.

 

I will try out the new mandrels when they arrive (wearing a safety visor I think!) and report back.

 

Thanks again for the comments.

 

Vivian 

 

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

17 hours ago, Ian Smeeton said:

Bit of  a head scratcher, this one.

 

I take it that the Mandrel is pushed fully home, and not just held by the tips of the jaws?

 

Also, that the Mandrel IS being held centrally in the chuck.

 

Also, that the discs themselves are punched centrally, no offset, which might unbalance it.

 

Other than that, my only suggestion is to try and contact Dremel themselves.

 

Regards

 

Ian

Thanks Ian,

 

Yes the mandrels have been central in the chuck and the discs themselves look as if the holes are central.

 

I was pushing the shaft of the mandrel in about half way - plenty for the chuck to grip onto I thought.

 

Will report back again as per above post.

 

Vivian

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

20 minutes ago, cravensdmufan said:

Thanks very much Ian, Mick and Mark for your responses.

 

I have ordered a pack of mandrels the same as the ones Mick has suggested.

 

I am obviously very wary of using this tool with a cutting disc.  However, a friend of mine of has come up with the suggestion that I may be powering it up too suddenly at maximum speed.  The Dremel is very fierce.

 

I will try out the new mandrels when they arrive (wearing a safety visor I think!) and report back.

 

Thanks again for the comments.

 

Vivian 

 

Even if the disc was slightly off balance, given the masses involved and the diameter of the mandrel, even a sudden acceleration shouldn't cause the damage you've experienced, Vivian. I've been using discs & my own Dremel for years with no issues.

 

Yes, safety glasses/visor should always be worn anyway when cutting/drilling/grinding with these tools. I'd start off gently with a mandrel on its own & check that it's running true. Once happy, try fast acceleration. If all OK, then try a disc. Again, start slowly.

 

Fingers crossed.

 

Mark

  • Like 1
  • Agree 2
  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...