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Well you could certainly give TMC a run for their money. The 'dutchman' is certainly comparable to some of there recent adverts

My only criticism would be a lack of definition.

It's all a bit flat / matt on an oily,damp and indeed dusty loco. It's the oily and damp bits you need to have a look at..

 

Best regards

 

Eric and Gripper.

Thank you ever so much and glad you like it! That for the tip, was think the same looking back at it. Will be sure to add some to future weathering projects! :locomotive:

Regards Callum 

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comparing to TMC is rather damning with faint praise (IMHO).

 

The standard of JR7F88's weathering is far superior I think.

Thanks you ever so much for the kind comment! Never believed I would of hear this a year ago when I started! :yahoo:

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It was not my intention to damn the work of SDJR7F88 nor that of TMC.

The techniques used have produced a similar look to that of TMC. The 9fs and Britannias on there ads have a similar range of colours and effects.

 

SDJR7F88 is an accomplished painter, his airbrush work and weathering is top quality.

If we cannot offer citique and support to one an-another how do we move forward.

 

If we were to model Barry scrapyard in 1975 you would expect flat paint and an overall dry look.

Pre 24/12/66 70018 would  have required water, oil and coal on a daily basis. The sooty look has been thoroughly covered with 70018.

My recommendation was intended to bring it alive, as you would with a artitsts painting. Signs of damp and grease can easily be achieved with light brush strokes of various varnishes. leaky drain cocks,cyllinders and valves would be commonplace by 1966. Greasy wheels and valve gear which vary in tone from the boiler can also be achievd with a little satin varnish.

 

Apologies if I have caused any offence. 

 

Best regards

Eric & Gripper.

No problem Eric & Gripper and none taken.Totally agree, but all my work is done with Weathering Powders, no sprays yet. :jester:

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hi E&G

 

no offence caused at all !

 

Many people I speak to don't rate TMC's weathering. It's a little basic in my opinion - that was my point.  So if someone compared my weathering to TMC I would not consider it much of a complement.  Of course I appreciate other people may have different opinions on TMC.

 

I bought a Bachmann TTA wagon off them once, and it looked like 4-5 quick squirts with an airbrush and that was it. They may have improved over the years.

 

So yes continue to support/rate the forum's contributors, it's one way for us to better ourselves.

 

cheers

Dave

 

Edited to add picture of said TTA

Would take me many hours to create a similar effect with my powders! :jester: Hopefully it would turn out better... :paint:

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  • 2 weeks later...

 Just uploaded another Slide Show video to my YouTube Channel, so though I would post it on here too as always. Been a bit quite on the weathering front lately, but sure it will pick up again soon. Anyway here's the video featuring the Bachmann BR Signals Department Coach. Hope you enjoy!

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kp_B31eRFgI

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Love the work so far :D May I be so bold as to ask which brand of powders you use please? My work is predominantly air brushed, so adding some texture would be nice :D

 

Sean

Thanks you ever so much mate! Of course, just basic Humbrol Weathering Powders :declare: They work a treat!

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  • 2 weeks later...

 Lovely weather out side again today, so I though I would give my Airbrush another go. :sungum: I set it up in the garage where the was no wind, but was nice and warm. Like the last time I used RaiMatch Acrylic Frame Dirt, thinned down 50/50 with the appropriate thinners. I tested it on 3 items today, the first some plan A4 Paper, the Second the Prairie Kit and the third an old Hornby TTA Tanker.

 Again I was not to pleased with the results from my test, with it being more poke a dotted then a smooth coat. I tried it from a number of distances, angles and setting, but still got the same (ish) results. Not sure if this down to me, my paint mixing skills or the basic Airbrush it's self. Tempted to have a go with a proper Dual Action one, with Compressor, but that is a big investment for something that I still can't seem to use properly. Any ideas?   :scratchhead:

Anyway here the pics from today...

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Although the overall effect does seem poor, seeing your other work, I'd say it was the brush! As they say, 'You get what you pay for'!

That TTA tanker doesn't look too bad actually! Looks like very fine rust patches starting to form...

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Although the overall effect does seem poor, seeing your other work, I'd say it was the brush! As they say, 'You get what you pay for'!

 

That TTA tanker doesn't look too bad actually! Looks like very fine rust patches starting to form...

Thanks mate. Would love to get the hang of it as it will make weathering locomotive so much easier. As I spend most of the time trying to get the base frame dirt powders on them. After a quick spray I could add all my powders. :scratchhead:  Glad you think the TTA is ok. It doesn't look so bad in certain aspects. 

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Hi Callum,

 

Speaking as someone who regularly airbrushes for weathering,  I can honestly say I have seen far worse attempts :)

 

First up, I would go MUCH thinner with the paint,  I tend to use a 1:5 paint to thinners ratio for washes and 1:3 for painting and the weathering you have done here, a proper compressor and brush will help you greatly I love my Neo for Iwata, and at just under £50 it was about the best priced brush that did what I wanted, with the addition of a crown cap and spare needles it was £55, I believe Airbrushes.co.uk have some starter offers of airbrush and compressor sets, keep at it! I had a cheepo like yours, and within a few hours of changing this is what i was putting out with the Iwata :D

 

Please forgive me hijacking the thread with a few photos :D

 

the Q1 is Pheonix Precision track brown and white spirits, thinned 1:5 innitially, then an overall wash of Metcoat gunmetal, (1:10) then streaked with track brown at 1:3 :D

IMG_3506.JPG

 

the 8F is more recent, again track brown, then gunmetal and varying browns and blacks

IMG_3619.JPG

 

Hope that helps :D and dont give up

 

Sean

 

P.S my cheapo airbrush came with the compresser I am still using some 7 years later

Edited by sean hpw
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Hi Callum,

 

Speaking as someone who regularly airbrushes for weathering,  I can honestly say I have seen far worse attempts :)

 

First up, I would go MUCH thinner with the paint,  I tend to use a 1:5 paint to thinners ratio for washes and 1:3 for painting and the weathering you have done here, a proper compressor and brush will help you greatly I love my Neo for Iwata, and at just under £50 it was about the best priced brush that did what I wanted, with the addition of a crown cap and spare needles it was £55, I believe Airbrushes.co.uk have some starter offers of airbrush and compressor sets, keep at it! I had a cheepo like yours, and within a few hours of changing this is what i was putting out with the Iwata :D

 

Please forgive me hijacking the thread with a few photos :D

 

the Q1 is Pheonix Precision track brown and white spirits, thinned 1:5 innitially, then an overall wash of Metcoat gunmetal, (1:10) then streaked with track brown at 1:3 :D

IMG_3506.JPG

 

the 8F is more recent, again track brown, then gunmetal and varying browns and blacks

IMG_3619.JPG

 

Hope that helps :D and dont give up

 

Sean

 

P.S my cheapo airbrush came with the compresser I am still using some 7 years later

Thanks for the info mate! Your work looks amazing! Will give that ratio a go with the paint you have mentioned and see how it turns out. So that's 1/3 ratio for the main coat of weathering? Plus how many passes with the brush do you do? :mail: That air brush kits sound right up my street and in the sort of price range I am looking for! Do you by chance have a link to a site which shows it? Thanks for all the info! :good:

Callum

Edited by SDJR7F88
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Hi Callum,

 

you are welcome to the info my friend, :declare: :declare: sharing is all the fun of the hobby after all :D

 

It seems they have stopped selling the paiting I mentioned, BUT no matter, the Neo for Iwata is a really sweet brush to use, the CN Model is my favorite, it fits nice in the hand, its really controlable, and comes with two paint cups ;)

 

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Neo-Iwata-gravity-feed-airbrush/dp/B007AUJJ28

 

this is the compressor I use

 

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Performance-Professional-Airbrush-Compressor-As18-2/dp/B00BG9MTQC/ref=sr_1_10?s=diy&ie=UTF8&qid=1403169411&sr=1-10&keywords=hobby+air+compressor#productDetails

 

and if you look below the photo there is an option to buy the compressor, a hose for it (these have a different fitting to the canned air hoses) and an air brush cleaning kit, take your tie learning hot to clean your brush and it will repay you a thousand fold!

 

Paint wise,

 

I work almost exclusively with enamels, both Huberol and Phoenix precision, and use White Spirit as thinners

 

general painting and livery coats 1 part paint to 3 of thinners

 

(were looking for skimmed milk consistency, not quite water, not quite cream, the easiest way of testing is with the 'drip test' if you dip a piece of plastic rod in the mix, and you get a nice even drip roll off with out assistance, then your about right!)

 

Washes I favor a little thinner mix of 1 part paint to 5 parts thinners (experiment with it a little though!)

 

and for special effects like really light weathering I go as thin as 1 part paint to 10 parts thinners!

 

As to how many passes i do, its always always best to build up layers of paint (as you well know) so for the base coat of the 8F I took maybe 4 or 5 passes, working a little closer each time aiming for the underside of the boiler, or the frames and chassis on alternate passes, :paint: (that was all done in about 5 mnutes flat) then she was left to dry, then the next layers were worked vertically, very low preasure, then the rust shades were added to the side of the tender and the coal space, finally the oily shades on the axle boxes and cylinder, then the wheel treads cleaned with a fiber glass pencil, real coal and off she went home. :senile:

 

Hope this helps mate, and if you need any ore detailed advice, drop me a PM

 

Sean

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Hi Callum,

 

you are welcome to the info my friend, :declare: :declare: sharing is all the fun of the hobby after all :D

 

It seems they have stopped selling the paiting I mentioned, BUT no matter, the Neo for Iwata is a really sweet brush to use, the CN Model is my favorite, it fits nice in the hand, its really controlable, and comes with two paint cups ;)

 

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Neo-Iwata-gravity-feed-airbrush/dp/B007AUJJ28

 

this is the compressor I use

 

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Performance-Professional-Airbrush-Compressor-As18-2/dp/B00BG9MTQC/ref=sr_1_10?s=diy&ie=UTF8&qid=1403169411&sr=1-10&keywords=hobby+air+compressor#productDetails

 

and if you look below the photo there is an option to buy the compressor, a hose for it (these have a different fitting to the canned air hoses) and an air brush cleaning kit, take your tie learning hot to clean your brush and it will repay you a thousand fold!

 

Paint wise,

 

I work almost exclusively with enamels, both Huberol and Phoenix precision, and use White Spirit as thinners

 

general painting and livery coats 1 part paint to 3 of thinners

 

(were looking for skimmed milk consistency, not quite water, not quite cream, the easiest way of testing is with the 'drip test' if you dip a piece of plastic rod in the mix, and you get a nice even drip roll off with out assistance, then your about right!)

 

Washes I favor a little thinner mix of 1 part paint to 5 parts thinners (experiment with it a little though!)

 

and for special effects like really light weathering I go as thin as 1 part paint to 10 parts thinners!

 

As to how many passes i do, its always always best to build up layers of paint (as you well know) so for the base coat of the 8F I took maybe 4 or 5 passes, working a little closer each time aiming for the underside of the boiler, or the frames and chassis on alternate passes, :paint: (that was all done in about 5 mnutes flat) then she was left to dry, then the next layers were worked vertically, very low preasure, then the rust shades were added to the side of the tender and the coal space, finally the oily shades on the axle boxes and cylinder, then the wheel treads cleaned with a fiber glass pencil, real coal and off she went home. :senile:

 

Hope this helps mate, and if you need any ore detailed advice, drop me a PM

 

Sean

Thank you ever so much for all this info! Very clear instructions. Will be a great help when I get my hand on one of the Airbrushes in the future (finger crossed). :locomotive:  

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  A much overdue slideshow, feature some stock from the last Commissioned batch of weathering. The wagons featured in this video are Bachmann Bogie Bolsters. There were fours of them in the batch, but only two are featured in the slide show (due to them be pretty much the same). Please tell me what you think. Hope you enjoy!

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qg_0SnQyj-I

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 As you know a month or so again the last of my weathered wagons on the shelf at Signals Midsomer Norton sold, and ended up being shipped to a customer in the USA. The wagon in question was a Bachmann 16 Ton Slope Sided Mineral Wagon in BR Bauxite livery . The owner was so pleased with it he asked me and the shop if I could do 11 more for him!  :yahoo: 

 Work has started on 5 of the 11 wagons, with me adding my textured rust paint effect to there bodies. Like always I aim to get each wagon looking completely different to the next. Once dry I will move onto the powders. :paint:  Please tell me what you think!   :sungum:

 

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Those are reeaallllyyy nicely done my friend, if I may offer my opinion (Not a criticism) in the photos the 16's all look fairly similar, maybe a little variation in tones would be nice? Just a thought of course ;)

 

Sean

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Those are reeaallllyyy nicely done my friend, if I may offer my opinion (Not a criticism) in the photos the 16's all look fairly similar, maybe a little variation in tones would be nice? Just a thought of course ;)

 

Sean

Thanks for the tips seam, but this is just the base coat of textured paint. Powders are yet to come, which will add the tone. I always try to get them all looking different :locomotive:

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 Just adding the final touches to the first 5 wagons from latest commission. :sungum:  Over the past few days I have added the weathering powders over the top of the textured paint and frames, painted the wheels and added the grime build up to the buffers. Still need to add an oil wash to the wheels and touch up a few other places, but apart from that pretty much done. :paint:  Sorry about to poor quality photos. Please tell me what you think! 

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