monkeysarefun Posted June 4, 2014 Share Posted June 4, 2014 Ok, so here's a window constructed from 3 layers of .1mm styrene sheet, cut with the Silver Bullet cutter: The top arch line is MEANT to be wavy, it follows theline of the other carvings - honest! SOme embossed bricks I'm playing around with at the moment. I just rubbed a coloured pencil over it to show the bricks more clearly. I think the mortar lines are a bit thick, I need to fine tune my scriber point a bit.. . 11 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kaidhuri Posted June 4, 2014 Share Posted June 4, 2014 Can anyone help?!"...I'm a new member with a new (couple of weeks old) Silhouette Portrait which I hope will allow me to continue modeling in styrene - I have an eye problem which makes marking out and hand cutting (7mm/ft scale) coach sides and similar.well nigh impossible. I've produced CAD drawings using Rhino and have exported outlines as DXF to Silhouette. I've been unable to fathom out why, when the drawing is wholly inside Silhouette's red cut border line, not everything cuts! I won't describe it any further as it may be a familiar problem to users of the machine which has an obvious solution... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
allan downes Posted June 6, 2014 Share Posted June 6, 2014 That church widow is humanely impossible and worse still there's more than one window in a church ! Awestruck member ! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium uax6 Posted June 6, 2014 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 6, 2014 Can anyone help?!"...I'm a new member with a new (couple of weeks old) Silhouette Portrait which I hope will allow me to continue modeling in styrene - I have an eye problem which makes marking out and hand cutting (7mm/ft scale) coach sides and similar.well nigh impossible. I've produced CAD drawings using Rhino and have exported outlines as DXF to Silhouette. I've been unable to fathom out why, when the drawing is wholly inside Silhouette's red cut border line, not everything cuts! I won't describe it any further as it may be a familiar problem to users of the machine which has an obvious solution... Have you made sure that the area of 'page' (ie inside the red lines) is actually the same size as your sheet of styrene? I always reset mine to be 228mm wide (Well I think I do, I'm not near the home PC with the drawings on it). Andy G Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kaidhuri Posted June 6, 2014 Share Posted June 6, 2014 Have you made sure that the area of 'page' (ie inside the red lines) is actually the same size as your sheet of styrene? I always reset mine to be 228mm wide (Well I think I do, I'm not near the home PC with the drawings on it). Andy G Andy - thanks for the reply. I guess what you're saying is that the machine is actually checking the styrene sheet size before starting cutting - I hadn't thought of that although I ought to have guessed it as I have a plotter (for drawings) which does exactly that! Otherwise, I'm getting the hang of the cut settings and am already producing better stuff than I could by hand/eye. Maybe I'll post some examples when I've produced something worth looking at. The current project is some first generation MET bogie coaches which I need for a long planned but not yet started West London layout in 7mm. Many thanks Kaidhuri 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeTrice Posted June 7, 2014 Share Posted June 7, 2014 Otherwise, I'm getting the hang of the cut settings and am already producing better stuff than I could by hand/eye. Maybe I'll post some examples when I've produced something worth looking at. Yes please. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeysarefun Posted June 8, 2014 Share Posted June 8, 2014 (edited) That church widow is humanely impossible and worse still there's more than one window in a church ! Awestruck member ! An admiring word about my grubby window from Allan Downes - my life is complete! It seems like I am just one of many middle aged members who 's teenage memories include waiting for the Railway Modeller to arrive each month to see what Allan Downes would be modelling this time. The late '70's were my school days and the strange thing is that I have forgotten almost everything I learned about physics and chemistry but can still rattle off your articles titles and what they were about, Mr Downes sir. "Whatshisnames Yard", "All Of A Twist" (curved station platforms) "Budgie Grit, String and So - A church"..so many more and I have them all stuck in my head! You should put out a classic hits CD or something. Then you disappeared from the Railway Modeller and I went off on a tangent building ship models and I guess I just figured that you'd died or something. But you haven't! I was googling stuff one day and I found a link to here and there you are still knocking out buildings in cyberspace.... Being in Australia meant that there was a couple of months delay in the arrival of my dads Raqilway Modeller, adding to the feeling of anticipation - but then again just making it more disappointing if it was a month without a contribution. I have an image of myself being just one of so many other teenage Allan Downes modelling groupies everywhere sticking wool strands onto cardboard roofs, making windmill roofs from cupcake cases ( I think that was one of yours?) and pouring mixtures of pva and kitty litter into long wooden moulds to make dry stone walls. I have to say Mr Downes that the world can count itself very fortunate that you've used your amazing modelling skills for good rather than evil because you had an army of young scratchbuilders all ready and willing to do your modelling bidding... I was over at my parents house the other week and found some of my model buildings made back then, retreived from inside the roof space where they've spent the last 20 or so years. The heat in the roof from so many Sydney summers has not been kind to them, I have some photos but the state of the buildings doesn't make an attractive post so I haven't inflicted them on the forum members but I have to say that your methods ( wool thatch, plaster infill in half timber panels and so on, have held up surprisingly well.. Anyway, I just wanted to let you know the pleasure that your work, - and your witty accounts of it - have given to me and so many others over all these years. As an Australian I've had a fairly filtered view of the UK from down here - I seem to have a distorted memory of 70's England as consisting of The Goodies, grumpy punk bands, various cricket teams for Lillee and Thommo to skittle... and Allan Downes, Kindest Regards, Chris. Edited June 8, 2014 by monkeysarefun 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kaidhuri Posted June 19, 2014 Share Posted June 19, 2014 Yes please. ....so the cutter works just as described in the various posts on this topic. It'll cut through 0.25mm stuff cleanly enough and will score 0.5mm deep enough to crack out without too much cleaning up. Some work-in-progress is shown in the photo: the brake end and part of one side (7mm/ft) MET first generation bogie stock carriage. Most of the rest of it is cut out and now waiting assembly. Have managed to separate the different cuts/scores by colour so I can now do the cut outs in setting 8 on .25mm stuff and then "draw" all the paneling, door openings etc in setting 1 or 2 using the pause command to allow the cutter to be re-set. Will post further WIP when progress is made. A carbide tipped engraving tool arrived from USA today - I need some planked partitions for the carriage interior so will now have a go with that. More anon. Kaidhuri 10 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kaidhuri Posted June 30, 2014 Share Posted June 30, 2014 MET-1-Brake3rd.jpg ....so the cutter works just as described... UPDATE.... I'm finding a small amount of error in the cutting, about +/- 0.5mm over a 300mm length. The implications are that after the base layer (main side in this case), the subsequent layers (panel overlay, layer with the droplights etc) need to be chopped up into short lengths and laminated in separately. It seems to be a bit pot luck as some of the cut layers fit exactly, some don;t. The overall possible 1mm error doesn't sound much but the glazing beads ( MET coaches were inside glazed so didn't have the more traditional "bollections) are 0.4mm so a shift of .5mm would wipe these out altogether. I've set aside the Brake 3rd for now and am working on the All first for which I have adjusted the drawings to chop up the secondary layers. I'll post some pictures later when it stops raining and i can take some pics out of doors. Kaidhuri Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
flubrush Posted July 1, 2014 Share Posted July 1, 2014 MET-1-Brake3rd.jpg ....so the cutter works just as described... UPDATE.... I'm finding a small amount of error in the cutting, about +/- 0.5mm over a 300mm length. The implications are that after the base layer (main side in this case), the subsequent layers (panel overlay, layer with the droplights etc) need to be chopped up into short lengths and laminated in separately. It seems to be a bit pot luck as some of the cut layers fit exactly, some don;t. The overall possible 1mm error doesn't sound much but the glazing beads ( MET coaches were inside glazed so didn't have the more traditional "bollections) are 0.4mm so a shift of .5mm would wipe these out altogether. I've set aside the Brake 3rd for now and am working on the All first for which I have adjusted the drawings to chop up the secondary layers. I'll post some pictures later when it stops raining and i can take some pics out of doors. Kaidhuri I mentioned much earlier in this thread that styrene sheet does expand when cutting with a knife - especially the thinner sheets used for panelling lacework. It has been a known problem for years and I remember discussing the matter with a demonstrator at a London exhibition in the 1960s when he recommended cutting the panelling layers first, then sticking them to the body side layers and then cutting the window openings to match. David Jenkinson gives a neat way round the problem, where you glue the thinner panelling layers onto the main body layers whilst holding them both in a curve with the longer panelling layer on the outside of the curve. You keep them curved until the Mekpak has set then return them to their normal straight shape. I did use this method and it worked very well. Jim. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kaidhuri Posted July 3, 2014 Share Posted July 3, 2014 I mentioned much earlier in this thread that styrene sheet does expand when cutting with a knife - especially the thinner sheets used for panelling lacework. It has been a known problem for years and I remember discussing the matter with a demonstrator at a London exhibition in the 1960s when he recommended cutting the panelling layers first, then sticking them to the body side layers and then cutting the window openings to match. David Jenkinson gives a neat way round the problem, where you glue the thinner panelling layers onto the main body layers whilst holding them both in a curve with the longer panelling layer on the outside of the curve. You keep them curved until the Mekpak has set then return them to their normal straight shape. I did use this method and it worked very well. Jim. Jim, thanks for the information - I tried reading all the back posts but there are a huge number and I missed your notes about sheet expansion when cutting. I never noticed this happening when cutting styrene by hand (maybe I was just too inaccurate!). I have a copy of David Jenkinson's book on carriage modeling somewhere about and will dig it out in the next couple of days and refresh my memory on the whole topic. The attached pic is the All First sitting on the "metal desktop" held together with B&Q's best magnetic latches (and some others) for checking prior to cementing. The tumblehome is formed in three layers in a jig but I still use a modified Jenkinson method with a false "wall" up to waist level. Many thanks your advice. Kaidhuri 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cheesysmith Posted July 4, 2014 Share Posted July 4, 2014 Can I just say I like what you are doing there, but I like the idea of a metal worktop and the use of the B&Q magnets even more. You have started me thinking that I need one now. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kaidhuri Posted July 4, 2014 Share Posted July 4, 2014 Can I just say I like what you are doing there, but I like the idea of a metal worktop and the use of the B&Q magnets even more. You have started me thinking that I need one now. Hi.....the metal is 1mm thick steel plate (B&Q too expensive for the steel but various suppliers online can produce a piece cut to size) double sided to a piece of chipboard. I put a piece of varnished paper on top of the steel - the type that comes in every pack of Epson photo quality inkjet printing paper. MEK doesn't seem to stick to it or flow about on it much by capillary action. I also have some "office" magnets from first4magnets which are stronger than the latches and will hold down a 2mm thickness of styrene. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
flubrush Posted July 4, 2014 Share Posted July 4, 2014 ...I tried reading all the back posts but there are a huge number and I missed your notes about sheet expansion when cutting. I never noticed this happening when cutting styrene by hand (maybe I was just too inaccurate!). I have a copy of David Jenkinson's book on carriage modeling somewhere about and will dig it out in the next couple of days and refresh my memory on the whole topic. I've just checked his book and he mentions the problem, starting at the bottom of the first column on Page 30. In fact, I forgot that he recommends holding one end of a side on a table edge with the side projecting out into space and letting the weight of the side make it flex down into a curve. Jim. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kaidhuri Posted July 4, 2014 Share Posted July 4, 2014 I've just checked his book and he mentions the problem, starting at the bottom of the first column on Page 30. In fact, I forgot that he recommends holding one end of a side on a table edge with the side projecting out into space and letting the weight of the side make it flex down into a curve. Jim. Hi Jim thanks for the reference, I've tracked down the book and will look it up after the football! I've done some crude repeatability tests using the Silhouette Portrait set to score on setting 2, speed 1 and 33 "thickness". A couple of (not very good) photos are attached. I compared two sets of score marks (inked in for visibility) one on 0.25 plastikard and one on 0.5 pk since these thicknesses are the panel layer and base (main side) layer thicknesses. Scoring rather than cutting produced a small difference much as I found with the cutting a few days ago. I also compared two sets of score marks both on 0.5 pk and found a small variability within the length of the test (crosses against the non-aligned marks). Your Jenkinson method will overcome these small differences - I guess the trick is knowing that they can occur, For the All First, I chopped up the 0.25 layers compartment by compartment and set them on separately. On the next one, I'll try the bending approach. Kaidhuri I've just checked his book and he mentions the problem, starting at the bottom of the first column on Page 30. In fact, I forgot that he recommends holding one end of a side on a table edge with the side projecting out into space and letting the weight of the side make it flex down into a curve. Jim. Hi Jim thanks for the reference, I've tracked down the book and will look it up after the football! I've done some crude repeatability tests using the Silhouette Portrait set to score on setting 2, speed 1 and 33 "thickness". A couple of (not very good) photos are attached. I compared two sets of score marks (inked in for visibility) one on 0.25 plastikard and one on 0.5 pk since these thicknesses are the panel layer and base (main side) layer thicknesses. Scoring rather than cutting produced a small difference much as I found with the cutting a few days ago. I also compared two sets of score marks both on 0.5 pk and found a small variability within the length of the test (crosses against the non-aligned marks). Your Jenkinson method will overcome these small differences - I guess the trick is knowing that they can occur, For the All First, I chopped up the 0.25 layers compartment by compartment and set them on separately. On the next one, I'll try the bending approach. Kaidhuri Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smiffy2 Posted July 11, 2014 Share Posted July 11, 2014 Hi all. I'm new to this. As Mrs Smiffy (Julie) does a lot of decoupage and makes greetings cards in that style, she was mightily interested in the Silhouette cutters, probably a Portrait as her work is relatively small. She likes the idea of being able to cut out a printed design. Naturally I rubbed my hands a bit at that, and we're talking seriously - ie setting the printer to wireless and moving it to the other side of the office to make room for a cutter next to the computer. However, I've downloaded the software and I'm getting the hang of it (a 7-plank wagon body) but I can't print the cutting design onto paper (Canon MG5350 printer). It sends to the printer OK but all I get is a blank sheet. What am I doing wrong? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold big jim Posted July 11, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 11, 2014 whilst in hobbycraft yesterday i spotted one of these, cricut electronic cutting machine, is this on a similar vain to the cameo? http://www.hobbycraft.co.uk/cricut-mini-electronic-cutting-machine/586372-1000 ive not looked into the full spec of it yet Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
raymw Posted July 11, 2014 Share Posted July 11, 2014 is this on a similar vain to the cameo? In as much as it cuts stuff, - but there is little user control over what shapes it cut - i.e. they want you to buy 'cartridges' of images, not draw your own shapes. Best wishes, Ray Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeOxon Posted July 11, 2014 Share Posted July 11, 2014 (edited) is this on a similar vain to the cameo? Read some of the customer reviews on Amazon to see how limited the Cricut machine is. It only cuts shapes from their (expensive) cartridges - pretty, twee things for birthday cards etc. Edited July 11, 2014 by MikeOxon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeOxon Posted July 11, 2014 Share Posted July 11, 2014 (edited) ...... However, I've downloaded the software and I'm getting the hang of it (a 7-plank wagon body) but I can't print the cutting design onto paper (Canon MG5350 printer). It sends to the printer OK but all I get is a blank sheet. What am I doing wrong? EDIT: see post #722 below. It can be done with v.3 of the Silhouette software! The cutting file is in vector format and can't be printed on a normal printer. If you want to draw it, then use the accessory pen-holder in the Silhouette. Another work-around is to take a screen grab with the Windows 'PrtScr' key and then print that but you will have to re-scale it. If you want to cut around a printed image then there is information in this thread or on my blog at: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/blog/1405/entry-13122-instant-chocolate-with-cream/ Mike Edited August 8, 2014 by MikeOxon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smiffy2 Posted July 11, 2014 Share Posted July 11, 2014 Thanks for that, Mike. I'd naively assumed that it was possible to make a check print for scale and so forth. I'm still a long way from cutting! (As in, haven't bought the cutter yet...) And no Windoze in this house, thank you very much! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold JCL Posted August 6, 2014 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted August 6, 2014 Hi Dick I'm so sorry that I'm only just replying to this. I'm afraid I'm not getting on here much at the moment. So, it took a bit of searching, but here's the answer for Silhouette Studio v3. To print out the outline of your objects, you need to select all of the objects you need to print, then click on the "Open the Line Style Window" button (to the left of the "A" and tick the "Print Lines of Selected Shapes" box. In Studio v 2 I used standard Staples card to create some crossing gates. I used the print functionality to print gate hinges on card in black before using the cutter to cut out the gates themselves. It's a bit late, but I hope that helps. cheers Jason Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeOxon Posted August 8, 2014 Share Posted August 8, 2014 (edited) So, it took a bit of searching, but here's the answer for Silhouette Studio v3. Many thanks for finding this! I've corrected my earlier post, which said it can't be done - I no longer need my work-arounds Mike ps It was there in the earlier version of the software, too - I just never found it. Edited August 8, 2014 by MikeOxon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold JCL Posted August 8, 2014 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted August 8, 2014 No problem Mike Coincidentally, I can't print from Inkscape. To get a print out, I have to save the drawing as a PDF file and then print that. All I get from Inkscape is a blank page. Talking about Inkscape, there is a new (to me) maintenance release that ends in .5 if anyone is interested. I'm going to have a go at printing from it as I've some sides to cut out. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MickRalph Posted August 16, 2014 Share Posted August 16, 2014 Reduced Price on Silhouette Cutters (and all accessories) Yolo is celebrating their change of name to Yolo Creations by offering 15% off all purchases until midnight on Friday 22nd August. The Portrait is already cheap at £125 (with free delivery), so with the reduction it becomes about £106. The Cameo becomes about £230 with free delivery. Thus for anyone waivering about a purchase, now could be the time to take the plunge. The website is at www.yolo.co.uk. Enter the code CREATIVE at the checkout. Mick Ralph Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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