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814 members have voted

  1. 1. Do you currently own a cutting machine?

    • Yes
    • No, but I want to in the next 12 months
    • No, I have no plans to buy one
    • I'm undecided at the moment


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  • RMweb Gold

I can peel the middle part from the backing sheet but I need to be able to secure it in place within the letter outline so that I can illuminate the complete character from behind with an LED.

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If you are using Inkscape convert the text to an object, break apart and colour centre outline differently. Now when cutting do a score cut for centres then full cut for the exterior.

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47 minutes ago, Ray H said:

I can peel the middle part from the backing sheet but I need to be able to secure it in place within the letter outline so that I can illuminate the complete character from behind with an LED.

Hi

 

The only way I can see of doing that is to glue it to a piece of transparent material as a backing. Unless of course you add something to secure it to the outer frame like you get with a stencil.

 

Cheers

 

Paul

Edited by PaulCheffus
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If you can use another font, search on-line for stencil font, there's hundreds of 'em. Or find a font generator to generate your own. If it is only a few characters, then  scale them up in your favourite drawing package and add the appropriate tabs and scale 'em back down again. Here's a link to a truetype font editor which may help https://www.softpedia.com/get/Others/Font-Utils/TrueType-Font-Editor.shtml#download

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  • RMweb Gold

Many thanks for the suggestions. I have an idea which I hope to try out in a day or so.

 

Thanks once again.

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Out of interest what is the life of a Silloutte Cameo 4 auoblade and can you get replacement blades as oppposed to whole items.

 

Mine appears to be struggling to cut through 10 thou after about 10 sheets or so.

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2 hours ago, MJI said:

Does anyone have a drwaing of a Mark 1 pullman gangway endplate?

 

The bits which rub together on real ones.

IIRC, the Mk1 Pullman used the standard Mk1 rubbing plate. I drew my H0 one up using the drawing in the Parkin Mk1 book, can rescale and ping it over if you want, pm me an email address. 

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3 minutes ago, CloggyDog said:

IIRC, the Mk1 Pullman used the standard Mk1 rubbing plate. I drew my H0 one up using the drawing in the Parkin Mk1 book, can rescale and ping it over if you want, pm me an email address. 

Thanks will do when on pc not telephone.  Type of gang way is called Pullman. It is for mark 1s and Swindon DMUs

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  • RMweb Gold

I did some work with 10 thou plasticard yesterday using my Silhouette Portrait and the successful cut rate decreased as time went on so I've decided it is time to replace the (black) blade.

 

Although I have eventually found a couple of sources for a new blade I get the impression that finding similar in future may get harder.

 

The machine isn't seeing much use so I'm wondering whether to just buy a couple of new blades now and accept that before too long the machine may only be good for marking out rather than cutting.

 

Do any of the newer blades fit the older machines?

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  • 2 months later...

I am in the market for one of these but can't justify spending £3-400 on one, I assume the older versions are OK for simple shapes, and would replacement blades etc be the same as the newer machines? 

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I have an original Silhouette Portrait and that handles reasonably complex shapes fine. The situation with blades is not quite as simple, certain blades require newer machines, I believe the original blades work in all machines but I'm using a CB09 which is widely available and gets my recommendation.

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15 minutes ago, ChrisH-UK said:

I have an original Silhouette Portrait and that handles reasonably complex shapes fine. The situation with blades is not quite as simple, certain blades require newer machines, I believe the original blades work in all machines but I'm using a CB09 which is widely available and gets my recommendation.

Thank you

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  • 2 weeks later...

One thing on interest, I find occasionally a window cut has knicks on it, corners not quite right.

 

Made of top left right bottom and the two bottom corners.

 

How do I smooth these out to stop knicks?

 

Big window on a standard 4 small window over 1 large one.

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Have you tried cutting slower? I use a slower setting with less pressure on corners, curves and fiddly bits and then repeat that cut to complete the job.

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