Simond Posted December 31, 2019 Author Share Posted December 31, 2019 Thanks Hayfield, that’s what I did on the previous Mica, and I was trying to get a “lighter, but still there” effect. I was sort-of putting off the end steps, but have done them, and I’m quite pleased with the outcome. I don’t think I’ll lose any now... using the baby mill to drill holes in milled brass angle. You can see a finished part posed on the white plasticard, and one ready to drill in the vice jaws. The plasticard prevents me drilling holes in my machine vice! The clamp plates serve as an end-stop to ensure all the holes are in the same place. ready to solder, the hairpins of 0.65mm brass wire stay put, I touched each joint with a drop of flux, and then cooked each one with the tiny blowlamp, and just touched it with very thin solder. into the ultrasonic bath, 10 minutes to get rid of any flux residue, and other grot. Then trim the hairpin to leave two “tails” that can go in a couple of drilled holes in the wagon end. If I’d been a clever b., id have drilled myself a little jig at the same time as drilling the steps, as that would have made drilling the wagon easier, but I’m not. So I didn’t think of it til now... anyway, drilled the ends of the wagon, and installed the steps. touch of paint now required, then transfers and vac pipes. HNY Simon 5 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Happy Hippo Posted December 31, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted December 31, 2019 Excellent work on making the steps, especially using a 'U' and then snipping off when complete: I'd have been there trying to solder two separate pins in and cursing when the first fell out as the second got up to temperature. I'd also have never thought of making a stop for the work like that either I'd have ended up trying to fix something to the machine vice....... Although the machine vice looks very familiar. I think I must have the twin sister of yours. Whilst blathering, I must also say how much I enjoyed the PD axlebox mods. I have a few kits to do and I'll certainly be applying said springing in due course. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted December 31, 2019 Author Share Posted December 31, 2019 Thanks Richard, I think the threads where someone does something, and you say to yourself, “oooh, I should have thought of that” are great, interesting and informative. I’ve learned so much from so many talented modellers over the years, so I’m very pleased to have passed on “a tip”. I’m still working on the bent guitar string springing. More soon... Thanks again Simon 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted January 8, 2020 Author Share Posted January 8, 2020 Quiet progress, it needs a coat of matt varnish to protect the transfers, as the Methfix wasn’t really enthusiastic. Then we’re ready for the handrails, then a bit of weathering, I think. g’night Simon 11 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Simond Posted January 10, 2020 Author Popular Post Share Posted January 10, 2020 (edited) Finished! I say that but the handrails need a touch of matt varnish to take the shine off them. atb Simon Edited January 10, 2020 by Simond 21 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted January 11, 2020 Author Share Posted January 11, 2020 I did that and they’re still shiny grubby paint time... 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted January 11, 2020 Author Share Posted January 11, 2020 That’s better! atb Simon 15 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted January 11, 2020 Author Share Posted January 11, 2020 It’s not quite “The Meat”, we’re shy about another 20 or 30 Micas but it’s a start! I think my next project will be the ballasting and ground cover by the sidings! atb Simon 13 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Hal Nail Posted January 11, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 11, 2020 Sorted :) 7 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted January 12, 2020 Author Share Posted January 12, 2020 Shame you didn’t fix the ballasting too! Simon 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted January 13, 2020 Author Share Posted January 13, 2020 Never mind... that’s a bit better. Shame the loco’s shrunk. Must have been left out in the rain or something. annoyingly, I broke the lever for the catch point. 14 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bgman Posted January 14, 2020 Share Posted January 14, 2020 12 hours ago, Simond said: the loco’s shrunk Must have been one heck of a storm Simon ! 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted January 14, 2020 Author Share Posted January 14, 2020 ‘Tis tonight! horrid weather! More ballasting, I think! atb Simon 2 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Happy Hippo Posted January 15, 2020 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 15, 2020 On 11/01/2020 at 19:37, Simond said: It’s not quite “The Meat”, we’re shy about another 20 or 30 Micas but it’s a start! You just need another one. Do you have four Mica? Shades of four candles! 1 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted April 1, 2020 Author Share Posted April 1, 2020 An unusual wagon ... this’ll be interesting! Something to entertain during the lockdown! atb Simon 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bgman Posted April 1, 2020 Share Posted April 1, 2020 Looks like a nice side project Simon, always fancied one myself but decided it might be just too long for my proposed layout, pity . Would be interested to see this one built if you're happy to post. G Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Adrian Stevenson Posted April 1, 2020 RMweb Gold Share Posted April 1, 2020 Hi Simon, I look forwards to seeing this one progress. Cheers, Ade. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted April 1, 2020 Author Share Posted April 1, 2020 There are, apparently 1700 rivets to be pressed out. I have so far done around 150 or so. more tomorrow! Simon 2 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted April 4, 2020 Author Share Posted April 4, 2020 Productive day today. Weather nice enough to spend a bit of time in the garage, so I redrew and recut the apron to go in front of the loco shed. the reason was the pits are not lined up with the rails. Not good at all! took some new measurements and redrew it. The laser worked perfectly, though seems to have a few dead spiders &c which require removal. Tomorrow perhaps... anyway, first example was not good. but further measurements and a third redraw got there! so now I will unstick the chairs from the current apron, slide it out (after removing the pits, not sure how that will go...) slide the new apron in, and then refit the pits. I shall cut new steps and add them later. this will enable me to finish the area in front of the shed, and do the ground cover., which will be a substantial step forward. more soon! atb Simon 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted April 4, 2020 Author Share Posted April 4, 2020 That went better than expected... definitely better... will now spend a bit of time adjusting levels and alignment. Simon 10 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted April 5, 2020 Author Share Posted April 5, 2020 Family having a lie-in, Sunday morning with the Soldering iron... folded solebars and documentary evidence that I don’t do as I’m told. The instructions suggest Soldering the nuts inside the bolster, I figure that the screw is better as there’s no way of securing the screw once the bogies are fitted, whereas a drop of varnish or PVA will stop the nut unscrewing. The downside is that the screws will protrude from the bottom of the vehicle and get in the way whilst I’m building it. I have a cunning plan... aha, footsteps upstairs... coffee time! 10 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Happy Hippo Posted April 5, 2020 RMweb Gold Share Posted April 5, 2020 (edited) Simon, For years I struggled with instructions that said one should solder a nut inside to carry a screw. I always ended up with threads gummed up with solder, or a nut that was not aligned with the hole. Then I realised that it was possible to quickly run up a threaded flanged bush on the lathe, and enlarge the hole in the etch to take the flange. Soldering in was then a simple task with alignment guaranteed. This,of course was after, I'd experimented with soldering a solid block behind the etch and trying to drill a hole into the block and then thread it. That went well By the way, I've just dug out my two PD 5 plank GWR opens to try and fit the spring system you used some pages back. My son's guitar is now missing a G string! Edited April 5, 2020 by Happy Hippo Addition 6 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted April 5, 2020 Author Share Posted April 5, 2020 A simple trick to hold a nut for soldering is to coat the threads (and under the head) of the screw in something that solder won’t stick to, and then screw it into the nut, thus securing the nut in place, and protecting the thread. Marking blue is an old favourite, but I guess not many modellers (as opposed to model engineers) have it to hand. Permanent felt tip pen works pretty well. Pencil lead also, but probably not on threads, and metal black is particularly effective. in writing this, I do wonder why I never made myself a few screws of various sizes from aluminium... Might put that on the to-do list! atb Simon 2 1 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Isambarduk Posted April 5, 2020 Share Posted April 5, 2020 38 minutes ago, Happy Hippo said: I realised that it was possible to quickly run up a threaded flanged bush on the lathe, and enlarge the hole in the etch to take the flange. That's the proper way to do it in my view, Richard. Also, I include a plain shoulder for the bogie to turn on, rather than the screw thread, and then the nut is tightened against the shoulder so there is no need for varnish (or for anything more 'severe', as I have been asked to deal with!). David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted April 5, 2020 Author Share Posted April 5, 2020 Yeah but... indeed, a proper pivot with a plain shoulder is ideal. A good second best is a short length of tube on which the bogie can pivot and against which the nut can be tightened. A sort of “removable shoulder”. In third place is a slightly overlong screw pointing down, with a spring to pull the vehicle down (or hold the bogie up if you lift the body) secured with a washer and nut, and a drop of something less aggressive than superglue. It’s cheap & cheerful and entirely satisfactory! And it’s where we’re going with this one! keep well! Simon 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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