Simond Posted November 8, 2018 Author Share Posted November 8, 2018 (edited) Grahame Thanks for the thoughts. Your station building is lovely, and your roof is entirely believable! The lead is very good indeed. How did you do the flashing? I had the cut & painted sheets, so just glued them together and tried a bit of washing to tone it down. My experiments are to ensure that the technique & colours work before committing to glueing anything to the actual roof! When the time comes, I will laser cut a guide to enable me draw spaced lines on the roof and I’ll lay the slates’ top edges to the lines. My conclusion is that rather than rattle can primer, I’m going to use Vallejo dark grey through the airbrush. I’ll mix in some of the mauve wash as I go and try to get some variations around a theme. I think that painting the card before cutting will also help, as the cut edges won’t curl, and I can ensure the laser speed and power are such that it won’t show white edges. Just got to find some decent 300gsm or 350gsm card. What did you use? Regarding your pannier, if it has jointed rods, disconnect one axle, and convince yourself that it runs as an 0-4-0, you don’t need motors or pickups, finger is fine, towing it with a soft elastic band is better, as you’ll see any snickyness. Fix that, then any further issues must be the third axles you can fix them. Then motor. Then pickups. Et voila! Actually, it’s never that simple... but the principle is good. Ah, the Dean tender. (Hangs head in shame) Needs a little work, doesn’t need a water scoop handle... Best Simon Edited November 8, 2018 by Simond 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bgman Posted November 8, 2018 Share Posted November 8, 2018 (edited) Good morning Simon, Thank you for your compliments, the flashing ( to be completed elsewhere ) is simply a kitchen foil cut and shaped, I say simply, it's a sod to cut but I persevered mainly because it forms pretty well to to shape. I too use Vallejo for almost all of my painting and find the range extremely good with fine pigments, which of course makes airbrushing a real pleasure. As I'm not a home today I can't confirm the card used but pretty sure it was 300gsm cut on my Silhouette. Thanks for your descriptive method for the Pannier, I have tried those methods and found the chassis to be slightly twisted and the centre axle has too much lateral play. I think it's going to need a new chassis, probably one from Premier Components but that will be for another day / project as I have already got two running which will suffice for now. You're quite correct about the Dean tender too but no need to hang your head, it's an awkward one. Look forward to progress on this excellent model of yours. Grahame Edited November 8, 2018 by bgman 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deano747 Posted November 9, 2018 Share Posted November 9, 2018 Wasn’t feeling very inspired tonight, but fiddled around with the slates that I’d cut. These are not stuck down! BB7D2047-8081-4666-85BB-AF40E50B2366.jpeg And dulled down a bit with a wash of grey D1521456-C6D7-4E58-98FF-340D42DDDDB1.jpeg Not enough, I think. Difficult to tell the difference! It needs a darker grey base, definitely the colours need to be done before laying the slates. Best Simon Looking good Simon, but my personal opinion is they still need to be darker, more like the ones in bgmans picture above. Of course it's your choice! Regards, Deano. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted November 10, 2018 Author Share Posted November 10, 2018 (edited) Hopefully the bowing walls issue is resolved - the crew came over today, I explained the issue, we drank coffee, scratched our heads and offered opinions - who says men can’t multitask? We decided that cutting away enough baseboard to create a clear pit the length and width of the shed was going to cause all sorts of issues so that plan was abandoned. The conclusion was a set of stiffeners cut to fit between the pits, some triangles to join the pits to the floor on the outside, and some further stiffeners joining the pit outer walls together. Probably overkill, but MDF is cheap, and the laser is quick. Then we did a bit of fettling behind the boards, fixed a wobbly leg, vacuumed the dust of aeons, and then discovered that the shed wouldn’t fit in the hole any more. Out with the router and make t’hole bigger. Vacuum again... batteries flat on cleaner, forgot to put it on charge whilst we went to the pub for lunch. P******k. Then decided to ballast the rear siding. Good call, with the shed out of the way. Then decided to paint the baseboards black, just to hide the wood colour. Should have done this before ballasting. Ho hum. So herewith the bracing. Herewith the enlarged ‘ole. Here’tis, back in place You can see the ally angle spacer - joy unbounded, it’s no longer a tight fit. I’ll leave it in and see if things move any more. And with the lid on. A further set of slates for comments please; From the top down, 1 White card, rattle can primer, citadel washes. In the middle plain, left and right are darkened with grey overwash. 2 Grey pearlescent card, overwashed with dark grey Vallejo and citadel mauve/purple washes 3 Grey pearlescent, as cut 4 White card, grey rattlecan primer, overwashed with Vallejo dark grey My current preference is 3 with thin mauve wash in places. Target is N Wales slate in quite new condition. The lightness/darkness will be much affected by how recently it has rained, thought & suggestions very welcome! EDIT - the colour of #3 on the screen of my iPad, and to my unaided eye is quite different! It seems to me to be much more slate coloured in reality. Best Simon Edited November 10, 2018 by Simond 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted November 10, 2018 Share Posted November 10, 2018 I prefer the second one, but needs less darker streaks. To me is the colour I remember. The two lighter Grey's in it are great. The top one with less green would also be very close. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bgman Posted November 10, 2018 Share Posted November 10, 2018 I would tend to agree with Peter on this, perhaps less darker streaks if you're aiming for a newish laid roof, possibly use the lighter grey overall, then add small amounts of the darker wash to the light grey pallette as you see fit to give random but slightly darker variants to individual slates. I did a similar thing with the station roof with a very slight amount of acrylic retarder to allow for wet on wet to stop the paint drying too quickly, which as your are doubtless aware is a problem when using this medium. If that doesn't work....chuck it all in the bin ! Joking apart, I like your solution to the bowing too, even if it meant extra work, but then I think we've all been there at some point. Keep it up ! G 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Bigbee Line Posted November 11, 2018 Share Posted November 11, 2018 Just working my way through the thread. The shed is really smart. When I worked at Eastleigh I always thought such structures would be nice to model with some means of repeating all the identical parts. The thing was that all the components were in round numbers of feet, very interesting, but I'm digressing..... The slates, I agree with the consensus, the second one down looks the best to me. However on most occasions I visit Wales it rains.... the slates then look dark and glossy, hopefully you are modelling a sunny day. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miss Prism Posted November 11, 2018 Share Posted November 11, 2018 No help with colour, but this might help with tone: http://www.gwr.org.uk/pannier-pics/1954-aberystwyth-22aug34.jpg Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted November 11, 2018 Author Share Posted November 11, 2018 Helps with the louvres of the clerestory too, thanks. And makes me conjecture about the difficulty of converting an RTR 57 into an earlier pannier. The spokes would probably be the biggest issue, and if you have to fit Slaters wheels, the attraction of an cheap & easy conversion evaporates... I’m google image searching for Welsh slate roofs... Best Simon 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bgman Posted November 11, 2018 Share Posted November 11, 2018 No help with colour, but this might help with tone: http://www.gwr.org.uk/pannier-pics/1954-aberystwyth-22aug34.jpg Helps with the louvres of the clerestory too, thanks. And makes me conjecture about the difficulty of converting an RTR 57 into an earlier pannier. The spokes would probably be the biggest issue, and if you have to fit Slaters wheels, the attraction of an cheap & easy conversion evaporates... I’m google image searching for Welsh slate roofs... Best Simon Now thats one that I would like to try too Simon, especially as its number reflects the year I was born ! Wouldn't it be nice to have a RTR drop in wheel set. G Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miss Prism Posted November 11, 2018 Share Posted November 11, 2018 There's no way of getting a 1901 class from a 57xx! The nearest is probably a 1854 class. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Killybegs Posted November 11, 2018 Share Posted November 11, 2018 Helps with the louvres of the clerestory too, thanks. Be careful Simon, that's the old shed in the background. I think yours is based on the new shed built in 1938. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted November 11, 2018 Author Share Posted November 11, 2018 Thanks John You are correct on both counts. Photos of the louvres are few & far between, and beggars etc.. so I’ll take what I can get. The thing that struck me about them is how “open” they are - it’s the angle of course, but you can see straight through. I’ll have to try hard to make mine similarly light in appearance, as the location on the baseboard invites close inspection! Sadly there’s no remaining trace of the original ‘38 shed louvres, they were pretty well rotten when the VoR acquired the shed, there’s one photo of a bit of damp OSB trying to keep the weather out, but I’ve found little to give much indication of the actual sizes of the (I presume) woodwork. The clerestory is covered by modern cladding panels now. Best Simon 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted November 11, 2018 Author Share Posted November 11, 2018 There's no way of getting a 1901 class from a 57xx! The nearest is probably a 1854 class. I tend to agree. The 1901 has a lower footplate, different hanging plate, buffer planks, wheels, smokebox door, and it isn’t a quick & cheap conversion, pipe dream... Back to reality! Best Simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted November 11, 2018 Share Posted November 11, 2018 Slater's do them I do believe. . Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Killybegs Posted November 11, 2018 Share Posted November 11, 2018 Thanks John You are correct on both counts. Photos of the louvres are few & far between, and beggars etc.. so I’ll take what I can get. The thing that struck me about them is how “open” they are - it’s the angle of course, but you can see straight through. I’ll have to try hard to make mine similarly light in appearance, as the location on the baseboard invites close inspection! Sadly there’s no remaining trace of the original ‘38 shed louvres, they were pretty well rotten when the VoR acquired the shed, there’s one photo of a bit of damp OSB trying to keep the weather out, but I’ve found little to give much indication of the actual sizes of the (I presume) woodwork. The clerestory is covered by modern cladding panels now. These are the louvres on Stratford on Avon shed. The slates are 12" wide so you can get some idea of sizes and spacing. Sorry about the quality of the pic! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ffayolle Posted November 11, 2018 Share Posted November 11, 2018 Nice lasercut engine house :good: 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted November 11, 2018 Author Share Posted November 11, 2018 (edited) Thanks John, Geometry wise, looks very similar to Aber. That’ll be useful. Need to get finger out and design the etch for the walkways, so I can get it sent off. Need to remember to include the door hinge bases and hinge straps too. Best Simon Edited November 11, 2018 by Simond 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Killybegs Posted November 11, 2018 Share Posted November 11, 2018 Thanks John, Geometry wise, looks very similar to Aber. That’ll be useful. Need to get finger out and design the etch for the walkways, so I can get it sent off. Need to remember to include the door hinge bases and hinge straps too. Best Simon Would my 4mm artwork for the walkways be useful? 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted November 11, 2018 Author Share Posted November 11, 2018 John, Thanks, that’s very kind, I love to have a look. Did you do an etch? I’ve started laying stuff out, but haven’t got far. Best Simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Killybegs Posted November 12, 2018 Share Posted November 12, 2018 John, Thanks, that’s very kind, I love to have a look. Did you do an etch? I’ve started laying stuff out, but haven’t got far. Indeed I did, several years ago but I have only just got around to building the shed. The etch also included windows and other bits and pieces. I will email a copy of the artwork later today. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted November 14, 2018 Author Share Posted November 14, 2018 (edited) Trial slates #42 Comments welcome Some slight adjustments needed, particularly to avoid four identically & unusually dark slates in a row, but I think the colour is about there. From three coach lengths away, it’s difficult to spot that the rows are separate. I think I’ll do the rest like this and stick them on permanently. These are just Pritt stick. It will take around 14 A4 sheets to do the whole roof. Best Simon Edited November 14, 2018 by Simond 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold GWR57xx Posted November 14, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 14, 2018 Hi Simon, Well, you did ask! I am certainly no expert but IMO you have too much variation in colour. Slates from the same quarry are very uniform in colour, so you would only see a little variation where damaged slates have been replaced. Since you are modelling the shed in almost new condition, only a couple of years old, I doubt there would be much (if any) repair work done. Even looking at slate roofs into BR days the colour is very uniform. There are some great shots here: https://www.warwickshirerailways.com/misc/shedsgwr.htm The photo in post 966 shows a very uniform colour, which I think would look better on your shed. BTW, I think your modelling is superb. All the best, Peter Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted November 14, 2018 Share Posted November 14, 2018 Looks good Simon. Especially having the slate and halves at the ends. I've used British slates and you can with hand split ones get ten to twenty all out of the same block so colour is all but the same. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bgman Posted November 15, 2018 Share Posted November 15, 2018 It would seem to be there now Simon, I would go with what you have produced and add any light weathering once you have placed all of the slates. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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