Porth Dinllaen in 0

[Donw]

Pushing a couple of wagons a time up to the coaling stage looks about right to me they can only be off loaded one at a time.

Don

[Simond]

Cleared the workbench this morning, as it had become impossible to actually do anything productive as there was no free space of any description (of course, now I will waste time looking for tools....) and in so doing I found my strip of lined parcel tape. As the sun is shining, I thought I'd get lucky, and apply the boiler bands.

 

I had hoped to have done enough for both King & Castle, but in the end, only the King. I've never tried this technique before, and this is my third attempt. I'm quite pleased with the result, although, being critical, the bands vary very slightly in width, which is just noticeable between the second and third bands, unfortunately.

 

 

I started to wet the boiler with warm water in which a very small amount of washing-up liquid was dissolved, but the water beaded, (the green is cellulose) so I used Micro Set which wetted the paint much better. By the time I got to the third band, I worked out the trick: put the band in place dry, and hold one end accurately, apply Micro Set with paintbrush, stretch band and locate second end, snip off excess & apply Micro Set whilst keeping band taut. Finally, after ensuring it is correctly located, run Micro Set around the band.

 

Regarding lining the tape, the critical issue seems to be cutting - for my next attempt, I will use Sellotape to fix the parcel tape down at both sides, for the full length, and I'll probably only try to get two bands on each width of tape. I'll also make the tape only just long enough to make one band from each length, rather than double length as I did this time. I had made a ruler guide (parallel lines of appropriate spacing drawn on TurboCAD, cut off and stuck over the pre-painted parcel tape), and this is also helpful.

 

And finally, the firebox strapping should not be lined "on top", so when the tape has thoroughly dried, I'll paint over the lining with some loco green.

 

Progress!!!!

Best

Simon

[Simond]

Pushing a couple of wagons a time up to the coaling stage looks about right to me they can only be off loaded one at a time.

Don

Don,

 

Thanks for your thoughts - the stage (it's the Timber Tracks kit, and looks very much like the one at Didcot, but I doubt it is dead-to-scale) has room inside for two "Pole" 20t wagons, and there is an extension track beyond the stage, which might hold 3 or 4 normal 12 tonners, so at an extreme, I might want to push 5 or maybe 6 up the ramp.

 

I think that this will be possible with a bit of a run up, given that the coal loads in my wagons are black foam rubber of negligible weight, it's only the weight of the wagons themselves.

 

The extension was on a very slight gradient, to allow the coalers to run the wagons into the stage, and let the empties out without needing a loco - I'm planning a bit of theatrical "hand shunting" of the wagons using a concealed motor in the stage. Might be a while, so don't hold your breath...

 

Thanks again

Simon

[2ManySpams]

Don,

Thanks for your thoughts - the stage (it's the Timber Tracks kit, and looks very much like the one at Didcot, but I doubt it is dead-to-scale) has room inside for two "Pole" 20t wagons, and there is an extension track beyond the stage, which might hold 3 or 4 normal 12 tonners, so at an extreme, I might want to push 5 or maybe 6 up the ramp.

I think that this will be possible with a bit of a run up, given that the coal loads in my wagons are black foam rubber of negligible weight, it's only the weight of the wagons themselves.

The extension was on a very slight gradient, to allow the coalers to run the wagons into the stage, and let the empties out without needing a loco - I'm planning a bit of theatrical "hand shunting" of the wagons using a concealed motor in the stage. Might be a while, so don't hold your breath...

Thanks again

Simon

You want a Southern Z class for that sort of Shunting job.

[Simond]

 

I fear it might look cartoon-like with the two middle axles struggling to get down far enough to reach the rails as it goes onto the gradient at the bottom, and then the outer two flailing in the air as it gets into the stage at the top!

 

(Even the Southern resorted to Panniers when there was some real work to do - I moved down to Kent a bit late to see them topping & tailing trains up the Folkestone Tram Road - they used three, apparently. Must have been a bit grim if you'd just put the washing out...)

 

Best

Simon

[Simond]

(Copied from Steve Fay's Ranelagh Bridge thread)

 

The box file for the tandem is on the Templot forum, if anyone is interested.

 

 

http://85a.co.uk/forum/view_topic.php?id=2606&forum_id=6&jump_to=17941#p17941

 

Best

Simon

Edited December 31, 2014 by Simond

[Simond]

With a little help from some kind souls on the Templot forum, I have adjusted the timbering to Equalised Incremental from the second crossing forward. This added one timber, all the others simply moved a little. The timbering looked sensible being Square On in the parts of the turnout where there are three roads, so I left it.

 

I have de-sprued 500 2-bolt chairs, 48 fishplates and 100 slide chairs, and have cut and bent the rails.

 

 

Filing & soldering next...

 

Best

Simon

Edited January 1, 2015 by Simond

[steve fay]

Looking very nice

[Simond]

Mr Cockup has been to visit - one pair of rails bent, wrong way up... Wouldn't be noticeable if I were using PCB sleepers, but it won't do with proper chairs.

 

Will now go through and double check each & every part (again!). There's something about the old adage of measure thrice, check twice, cut (bend & file) once.

 

Perhaps a drop of marker pen along the lower side will prevent a recurrence...

 

Best

Simon

[Simond]

Oh dear.

 

Spot the THREE blue rails.

 

 

(Blade on the short crossing, closure / wing rail on centre road, and the very short closure / wing rail between the central and short crossings)

 

That will teach me to build track work whilst watching Free Birds & Despicable Me with the kids...

 

Annoyingly, two of them were quite long. Ho hum.

Simon

Edited January 1, 2015 by Simond

[3 link]

Hi Simon

 

Been there done that, even if you look down the side face of the rail it is still hard to tell the difference, well it is to me until I put my glasses on.

 

I personally thread the chairs on to the rail when they are still on the sprue, just a little twist and they come free.

 

Also if you are fitting their fishplates, either the plastic or cast one's you will need to just file the inner edges off the rail ends to make them fit. Sorry if you already know this, just thought I would give my two'peneth.

 

Martyn.

Edited January 1, 2015 by 3 link

[Simond]

Martyn

 

Thanks for the thoughts. I had not considered the trick with the chairs, maybe for the next 500...

 

I had heard the advice re filing the rail end. I have to try a couple to get a feel for it.

 

My last day off today, MrsD is back at work, and the teenagers are still asleep. Progress is being made!

 

Photos later!

 

Thanks again

Simon

 

(BTW, wiring for your layout - the offer is very much still open - post up a track plan, and I'll let you know what I recommend)

[Donw]

I can tell you that sorting out which side is up on the rail is even harder in 2mm. I haven't had much problems with getting it upside down in 7mm ( or did I just fail to notice? Haha). Martyn is right about just smoothing off the cut rail edges. If you just do the edges round the bottom part if might help with identifying which way up. I also find it help to make up the crossing using some bits of scrap etch it adds strength where the chairs need to be cut down. It also stops key parts moving. I found with my first efforts that applying a little pressue to hold the rails against the gauges could distort the hairs a little or cause the rails to move slightly along. I havent a photo of a 7mm one this is 2mm.

 

Use either a jig or a spart print from templot to build the crossing on.

Don

[alanbuttler]

Hi Simon, happy new year! Regarding the coaling stage road, how about having it purely cosmetic, not joined to the layout point work but heading off scene on a more realistic gradient, thereby also breaking up the line of sight between the layout and the back scene? You might be able to squeeze in an ash road then possibly :-)

 

I'm thinking along the lines of Abercynon Fach or similar.

[Simond]

Alan

 

Thanks for the thought and Happy New Year to you too.

 

It's quite "Out of the Box" - I like the idea, and the ash road suggestion would certainly work, provided it was between the coaling road and the ramp. I'll give it some thought, but I was quite keen on my "hand shunting by computer" hidden in the stage. Maybe this could still work.

 

Mmm.

 

 

Don

 

I can recall playing around with N gauge, but I never even considered 2mm FS. As the youth of today would say "respect!"

 

 

Attached is the current state of play. The two crossings are done, look smooth through from both directions, and are gauged with 1.5mm flangeways. They are a little loose (say a Rizla Green) on the gauge, I'll see how it runs when the stock rails are in, and will tighten if needed I need to cut away the excess brass strip, and wash it all in CIF. Then cut the rails for the insulated fishplates. Lots more to do, but this is the most complex formation that I need for the loco shed, so it should be plain sailing from now on. (He said, tempting fate...)

 

 

Got some wood dye this morning. Timbers are drying after first coat.

 

More tomorrow

Best

 

Simon

[Simond]

Well, herewith the tandem, all done bar a couple of decent stretcher bars for the blades, and a couple of little details (eg slab & brackets) which may or may not eventually be done...

 

It seems to work, it's the first bit of track work that I've made using C&L / Exactoscale bits, and my first to 0-MF.

 

Compared with using copper clad, I find that It's rather slower to build, but looks very much better close up. From four or five feet away, I can't see the lack of chairs on the hand built bits of the Greater Windowledge Railway, but I'll certainly persevere for Porth Dinllaen, at least anywhere where anyone might take a close-up photo of stock, etc. Similarly, Peco flexi, with the sleepers spaced more prototypically, is pretty much indistinguishable from hand made track at a similar distance, and I'll probably apply similar logic.

 

The 0-MF is definitely better (on the basis of very limited trials to date...) in terms of avoiding wheel drop, and I think it looks better too. There is no problem at all attaching to normal Peco flexi, as you can see.

 

However, a question to those of you who do build track - how do you keep it all together when you unstick it from the plan? It seems that many of the chairs (and thus timbers) would simply slide along, or fall off. Is the general rule to apply thin cyano to rails and (particularly stock rails in slide) chairs? Or is there something else I've missed?

 

BTW, I did wipe the rails down with gun blue, but there was no colour change whatsoever. Either my gun blue has lost its flavour on the bedpost overnight, or it is a formulation that simply doesn't work on hi-ni NS rail. I will source some of the renowned Birchwood Casey, and try that. I also need to paint over or blacken the bits of brass that strengthen the crossings (and maybe add some plastic dummy brackets / spacer blocks).

 

Just for interest, I used 4 lengths of rail, around 150 chairs (normal & slide) 11 300mm timber strips, three sleepers, 5 fishplate pairs, and various off cuts of brass, plastic card, etc., plus consumables including acetone, Araldite, flux & solder, which equates to a bit less than £25, which is pretty good value. I estimate it took around 8 hours, maybe a little longer, and might take another hour or so to finish.

 

Comments & suggestions very welcome

 

 

 

 

 

Thanks

Simon

[3 link]

Hi Simon,

 

Regarding the blackening of the rail, I have also failed to get it to darken, for want of a better word it seems the Hi-Ni rail is not very " porous" . You could go for the steel rail but I would not personally risk that because of my proximity to the sea.

 

Apart from that I think your turnout looks the part, and like you say if you are prepared to file up the vee's and switch blades yourself it works out a lot cheaper and certainly looks better than the r-t-r on offer.  And you can basically build any type or size of turnout you like, no restrictions.

 

Regards,

 

Martyn.

[Simond]

Thanks Martyn

 

Not sure how far you are from the sea, but I'm certainly less than 200m away as the crow flies. (It's probably 70m vertically)

 

Slaters wheels rust for everyone until they're on the loco, and painted a/o oiled, so I'm inclined to believe that it isn't really an issue (providing there is no pitting). I have a couple of lengths of steel rail in my goodies-store, and they aren't rusty, but they are in the house. The railway will, one day, be in a shed, which might not be quite so warm, dry & protected as the lounge, and stuff does rust in my garage, so I bought Nickel Silver, and I guess I'll stick with it, as it's the safe bet, even though the steel looks much more like, well, steel...

 

Thanks for the kind compliments, I'm pleased with the appearance and am sure that it will work well when installed. Do you have any insight into stopping the less-well-attached timbers from sliding along the rails, and/or falling off?

 

Do you use the Ambis stretchers, or something else?

 

I'll play with Arduinos, relays and servos tomorrow for point operation, maybe tomorrow. Will update the thread, of course.

 

Best

Simon

[2ManySpams]

Simon, my answer to stopping the sleepers moving on handmade track is to keep it attached to the plan. My plan is to stick the track (on its paper plan) to the underlay using carpet tape.

[Simond]

On interrogating the kids (17 & 14), my daughter confirmed that there is no obvious wheel drop on the 0-MF crossings, but she could feel it on the 0-SF, and my son & she both confirm that the wooden timbers and chairs look better than Peco and copper clad.

 

Sort of fixes my destiny...

 

S

[martin_wynne]

a question to those of you who do build track - how do you keep it all together when you unstick it from the plan? It seems that many of the chairs (and thus timbers) would simply slide along, or fall off.

 

Hi Simon,

 

The best solution is not to unstick it from the plan, simply trim all round close to the timber ends. But for that to work reliably you need to print on thick enough paper to hold the timber spacings and be left in place under the ballast. I suggest 160gsm paper for printed templates, which is almost a thin card. Maybe in 7mm scale you could go even thicker, printer permitting.

 

edit: Just to add that when sticking the template to the work board, stick it only outside the timbered area, so that after trimming round the timber ends it lifts clear.

 

Martin.

Edited January 4, 2015 by martin_wynne

[Simond]

Chris, Martin,

 

Thanks for these thoughts. Unfortunately, due to a lack of forethought, and experience only of copperclad construction in which the template is entirely sacrificial, the template is stuck to the chipboard with photo mount. To aid removal from the template, I used rather less double sided tape to locate the timbers than previously, which appears to have been exactly the wrong approach.

 

Indeed, taking the "card template" recommendation, cyano (or PVA, aliphatic or PU) would be the logical means of fixing the timbers on the plan

 

This may prove challenging... I think I will unstick it, and immediately stick it back onto a prepared duplicate template. First, I need some A4 card...

 

Best

Simon

[Donw]

Simon

The alternative is to build the track in situ which avoids the problem or to build it on a sub base using ply or balsa which can be fixed down to the baseboard. The plan can be stuck to the ply or balsa. This can be quite useful for bits of complex pointwork.

As an aside I had trouble with the first ones I built in gauge 0 as I found the crossing could be moved in the chairs when pressing the wing rails against slip gauges. I found a brass screw under the crossing to which I then soldered it stopped that. I later  adopted the suggestion of building the crossing assembly in a jig which I made from scrap wood and panel pins. This can be fixed down by using expoxy to fix the scrap etch ties on the assembly onto the timbers.

 

Don

[puddlejumper]

It looks great Simon and if it passes the kids test well I think you are onto a winner. I was given a C&L turnout kit a good while ago but have never actually had a go at building trackwork but you have inspired me to have a go........I think I need to build a photo plank layout dos I need more layouts in my life/loft!!

[Simond]

Doug

 

If I've inspired you to have a go, I'm honoured! 

 

Start a thread & go for it - it took the spare hours of a few days, but it was mostly stress free and enjoyable!  (the major stress will be getting if off the build board and onto a card sub base which I am about to do, hopefully without tears!)

 

Don

 

thanks for the suggestions - I can't build in situ, as the baseboards haven't been built yet (and when they are, the current layout has to be dismantled), and I don't think I'd want to, as the ability to turn it round and sight along it, and so on, outweigh, in my opinion, the "advantages of permanence".

 

Regarding crossings, the "V" is soldered to brass strips that connect it to the wingrails, as in your 2mm pic above.  these are Araldited to their respective timbers.  I used the same approach for the checkrails, so the alignment of stock-rail and V is also maintained.  it's all the others that worry me!  I have some quite thick paper, and have reprinted the template so I am about to make a new card underlay, and then transfer the newly-built formation to that.  Wish me luck! 

 

Photos to follow.

 

best

Simon