keefr2 Posted July 13, 2017 Share Posted July 13, 2017 (edited) The nylon type plastic is a good choice for these parts but it does look very plastic. I am use Humbrol RC104 (dirty black). The acrylic paint tends to move on the surface when first applied, leaving holes in the coverage. I find that if the paint is brushed out again after a few moments the gaps can be filled - the paint is drying fast enough I think to become stickier. I don't know if this is any help Chaz, but the plastic sounds similar to that used on the old Airfix 1/76 scale figures that I used to paint a lot of. I found they wouldn't take either enamel or acrylic paint very well, and also needed multiple coats & had very little wear resistance. I then discoverd that if you mix acrylic paint with watered down PVA the paint applies much easier & does stay on better. As I have offered (below) to restore a few photos on request would this do? The sad thing is that casual visitors to my topics will be repelled by PB’s ugly messages and will not stay long enough to get anything from the text. What to do? It's not much of an improvement, but I deleted all my pictures fron PB and closed my account - on my few build threads on various forums the ransom demand has now been replaced by their 'cute kitten 'click for pictures' photo' (which I've never understood as clicking it doesn't give any pictures!) Keith Edited July 13, 2017 by keefr2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaz Posted July 13, 2017 Author Share Posted July 13, 2017 I don't know if this is any help Chaz, but the plastic sounds similar to that used on the old Airfix 1/76 scale figures that I used to paint a lot of. I found they wouldn't take either enamel or acrylic paint very well, and also needed multiple coats & had very little wear resistance. I then discoverd that if you mix acrylic paint with watered down PVA the paint applies much easier & does stay on better. It's not much of an improvement, but I deleted all my pictures fron PB and closed my account - on my few build threads on various forums the ransom demand has now been replaced by their 'cute kitten 'click for pictures' photo' (which I've never understood as clicking it doesn't give any pictures!) Keith Thanks for the paint info' - however if you have a look at the first snap on post #1111 above you will see that my painting of the trucks has worked OK. Of course how well they resist wear remains to be seen. Of course if paint comes off any edges what will show will be a rust colour - the original shade of the plastic - so that may not matter too much! Chaz 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaz Posted July 14, 2017 Author Share Posted July 14, 2017 More hopper paint stuff.... Another hopper car is rusted, this one using "Worn Effects". Here's a comparison. There is not a huge apparent difference, but the "Worn Effects" acts more slowly with the top coat wearing away slower but if you continue then the effect will build up to look very similar to that from "Heavy Chipping". I think I went too far with this second car to show a different look. No problem, I will try for a more subtle, less corroded look on the next car. A close up of the two cars - still some work to do, rain-washed orange rust in angle corners and coal-dusty overspray. The tools I am using for the wearing process. The soft brush at the bottom I use the to wet the car - it will also wear the surface very gently. The cocktail stick can make scratches in the paint finish. I also use it to "worry" away at the surface if the top coat is reluctant to start breaking up. I shortened the nylon hairs of the brush with the white handle to make these stiffer. The toothbrush is the most effective at breaking up the paint but obviously needs care - there would be no point in removing all of the top coat. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- A pack of Kadees arrived yesterday - 50 pairs of 148s. As I weather and letter each car it will get a pair. Not a cheap option but worthwhile I think. Chaz 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loconuts Posted July 14, 2017 Share Posted July 14, 2017 Hi Chaz You might be interested that the 'Mara Harbour' site is still up and running, the photos are still there. If you remember he did a heavy weathered Bachmann Tank Car with faded lettering, worth reading back over. Covers painting the car trucks as well. John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaz Posted July 14, 2017 Author Share Posted July 14, 2017 This side of the hopper car better illustrates the "Worn Effects" fluid. Most of the wear of the black paint was done with the soft brush I use to wet the surface. As the water soaks in and "activates" (AK's term) the fluid the top coat of paint starts to break up. I did use a cocktail stick here and there to get some scratches. Chaz 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaz Posted July 15, 2017 Author Share Posted July 15, 2017 Dear Photobucket, Must we have a bl00dy kitten? Wouldn't a hand doing the two-finger salute be more appropriate? I won't send you my love but I am tempted to send you something unpleasant. Chaz 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaz Posted July 21, 2017 Author Share Posted July 21, 2017 (edited) Some cooler weather recently has allowed me to go up into the roof and work. Yesterday was very pleasant up there, with both Velux windows opened a cooling breeze wafted through. The track is extending west from Stoke's Ferry. Picking up the tale from the last posted photo... At a show last year I bought a pack of yard lengths of code 82 rail from the C & L stand - I would have bought more but it was the last one he had. First task was to spray this rail rusty. I used three strips of upside down masking tape, themselves taped to pieces of cereal box card, to temporarily fix the rail. It meant that the lengths could be picked up and turned round as a unit. A rattle can of Railmatch "dark rust" did the job with a couple of passes. I then started spiking rail. A pencil line on the piece of white card is aligned with the drawn centre line of the track and the first rail is positioned over the guide lines on the card. I spike to every third tie. The spikes on the two ties between are drawn in with the spirit-based pen. From a normal viewing distance you can't tell the difference. The second rail is aligned using track gauges to maintain the 16.5mm spacing. Both rails are now spiked as far as the weight. The boxcar was rolled across the new track for testing purposes. If it stays cool up there I hope to get the curves completed in the next day or two. Of course it would be much quicker to be pinning down ready made flexible track but I find hand laying the track very satisfying and it looks good when its done. Chaz Edited July 21, 2017 by chaz 9 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
81A Oldoak Posted July 21, 2017 Share Posted July 21, 2017 Some cooler weather recently has allowed me to go up into the roof and work. Yesterday was very pleasant up there, with both Velux windows opened a cooling breeze wafted through. The track is extending west from Stoke's Ferry. Picking up the tale from the last posted photo... P1070411-1.jpg At a show last year I bought a pack of yard lengths of code 82 rail from the C & L stand - I would have bought more but it was the last one he had. First task was to spray this rail rusty. P1070459-1.jpg I used three strips of upside down masking tape, themselves taped to pieces of cereal box card, to temporarily fix the rail. It meant that the lengths could be picked up and turned round as a unit. A rattle can of Railmatch "dark rust" did the job with a couple of passes. I then started spiking rail. P1070460-1.jpg P1070461-1.jpg A pencil line on the piece of white card is aligned with the drawn centre line of the track and the first rail is positioned over the guide lines on the card. I spike to every third tie. The spikes on the two ties between are drawn in with the spirit-based pen. From a normal viewing distance you can't tell the difference. P1070463-1.jpg The second rail is aligned using track gauges to maintain the 16.5mm spacing. P1070462-1.jpg Both rails are now spiked as far as the weight. The boxcar was rolled across the new track for testing purposes. If it stays cool up there I hope to get the curves completed in the next day or two. Of course it would be much quicker to be pinning down ready made flexible track but I find hand laying the track very satisfying and it looks good when its done. Chaz Stick with the hand-built track Chaz. It looks even better in the, er, flesh. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loconuts Posted July 21, 2017 Share Posted July 21, 2017 Stick with the hand-built track Chaz. It looks even better in the, er, flesh. Don't get too close Chris, this American Narrow Gauge can be very contagious. I know as I was pretty sane once happily modeling Swindon products and I got bitten. Chaz, great idea on the fake track spikes will pass that idea onto my mate in Canada as he only spikes every fourth tie. John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Smith Posted July 21, 2017 Share Posted July 21, 2017 Don't get too close Chris, this American Narrow Gauge can be very contagious. I know as I was pretty sane once happily modeling Swindon products and I got bitten. Chaz, great idea on the fake track spikes will pass that idea onto my mate in Canada as he only spikes every fourth tie. John I agree wholeheartedly, I too used to be solely P4 GWR and LT, but now embrace the gauge vagueries of On30 and Bachmann RTR which is generally excellent. However having now had a great time building Leesburg as half an oval have now realized the error of my ways in favour of a terminus or through station. Consequently it is now on eBay for local pickup in or around North Georgia.....anyone interested? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loconuts Posted July 22, 2017 Share Posted July 22, 2017 I agree wholeheartedly, I too used to be solely P4 GWR and LT, but now embrace the gauge vagueries of On30 and Bachmann RTR which is generally excellent. However having now had a great time building Leesburg as half an oval have now realized the error of my ways in favour of a terminus or through station. Consequently it is now on eBay for local pickup in or around North Georgia.....anyone interested? I am sorry to hear that Jeff, Leesburg is a well modeled layout, was not so sure about why you went wandering off into the wilds of Wales and start modeling the GVT on the second half of the layout. You were at the stage to start having fun modifying the Bachmann Locos and stock. If certain things are not right with the Depot they can be modified. By all means do the GVT but as a separate layout and turn the back half of Leesburg into storage loops for the time being and then develop it. John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaz Posted July 22, 2017 Author Share Posted July 22, 2017 I think that Leesburg worked fine as a small layout with two themes - presumably the "other" theme became the fiddle yard when you operated it? Selling it on and developing something else is a good move, especially if it means more On30! I look forward to seeing what transpires. Chaz Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Smith Posted July 22, 2017 Share Posted July 22, 2017 John - the 2 sided layout concept was based on a web site (I think referenced in my thread). The baseboard construction was heavyweight to say the least. The whole 8'x 4' layout currently is on my first floor landing and is not popular with the domestic authority and may or may not make the next house move (if not sold) depending upon accommodation in the new house... The GVT will probably end up as a narrow modular lightweight layout. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Smith Posted July 22, 2017 Share Posted July 22, 2017 Sorry, I was interrupted in my last post and was going to say that Leesburg was going to be my effort to get interested in operating rather than building. I carefully designed the track plan to enable a good bit of shunting using the loop and under-track magnets. Unfortunately as it happens I'm still not too interested in operating (I started another thread and learnt a lot about what others get pleasure from). So all in all it's been interesting and I still like On30 but RTR is not really my thing.....However, never say never again...... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaz Posted July 22, 2017 Author Share Posted July 22, 2017 Sorry, I was interrupted in my last post and was going to say that Leesburg was going to be my effort to get interested in operating rather than building. I carefully designed the track plan to enable a good bit of shunting using the loop and under-track magnets. Unfortunately as it happens I'm still not too interested in operating (I started another thread and learnt a lot about what others get pleasure from). So all in all it's been interesting and I still like On30 but RTR is not really my thing.....However, never say never again...... Fair enough, nothing wrong with that. Just one thought - could it be that Leesburg didn't have enough scope to make operating that interesting? I have seen layouts at shows that looked beautiful but had very little to actually do. For the operators the second day of a two day show must have been a challenge. Chaz Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loconuts Posted July 23, 2017 Share Posted July 23, 2017 (edited) Sorry, I was interrupted in my last post and was going to say that Leesburg was going to be my effort to get interested in operating rather than building. I carefully designed the track plan to enable a good bit of shunting using the loop and under-track magnets. Unfortunately as it happens I'm still not too interested in operating (I started another thread and learnt a lot about what others get pleasure from). So all in all it's been interesting and I still like On30 but RTR is not really my thing.....However, never say never again...... Jeff I know what you mean about RTR, the interest does not last long. Although I have not built my Locos, all being RTR I have breathed on some being a BLI C-16 and a Bachmann Colorado and Southern mogul to bring them up to the same standard as the MMI offerings that I operate. However I tend to build my own stock using the San Juan kits and Labelle coach kits. I started with Bachmann but to my eye it just did not look right and I have gradually replaced it to the point the mogul is the only item left. Have you considered converting to electric traction? I saw a layout in the Model Railroader many years ago where the motive power was all early electric traction using boxcabs. If I remember right it served a mine complex at the top of a grade. Easy to build and you can still use your Bachmann stock to start with and gradually upgrade. You did say you fell into the 8 x 4 trap which is common in the States as is the 6 x 4 size over here. I would recommend the TOMA form of construction around the room, much more portable than the 8 x 4 which is like shifting a mattress. John Edited July 23, 2017 by Loconuts Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaz Posted July 23, 2017 Author Share Posted July 23, 2017 (edited) A snag has arisen with the track geometry of the wye junction that I intended to use that will lead to the terminal station (name not yet decided). Drawing out track centre lines more carefully with paper point templates has shown that there is just not enough space - the turnout on one end of the straight section puts the curve too late in turning the track, which therefore ends up too far over to match the curve of the wye point. The only way I can get it in is to lay the two curves on a 21 inch radius AND I will need to make a curved point with the inner curve to 21 inch, unbroken by any straight bits. This means making the crossing (frog) curved - that's not a very good idea is it? I really don't fancy making a curved point with such dodgy geometry, especially as trains will have to reverse over the tighter route being propelled into the station. Sounds like a recipe for endless derailments to me. The sensible alternative is to abandon the wye and just have the main line curve BUT if I do that I must build a turntable large enough to take a Bachmann ten-wheeler. Kitwood Hill Models have a kit for a 13.5 inch table in their range which will certainly take a Bachmann 4-6-0 - the longest loco I have. I just need to check now if I have enough room for one. Decisions, decisions! Chaz Edited July 23, 2017 by chaz Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Smith Posted July 23, 2017 Share Posted July 23, 2017 Chaz - this is the fun part (to me at any rate) of building layouts.....problem solving! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
AJon30 Posted July 23, 2017 Share Posted July 23, 2017 Have you got space for this? (Runs for cover.......) Rgds Andrew Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
AJon30 Posted July 23, 2017 Share Posted July 23, 2017 This suggestion from a Model Railroader discussion site. Don't know of a prototype Rgds Andrew Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loconuts Posted July 23, 2017 Share Posted July 23, 2017 Hi Chaz Don't beat yourself up over this. Peco do a narrow gauge wye point which is of a tighter radius than 21 inch and the Bachmann stuff runs through it OK. As long as the rails on the crossing 'V' line up everything it will be fine. If you are worried produce a skeleton point using PCB strip and lay some track up to it. A bit of test running will prove it then all you have to do is put some wood ties in the gaps. Also you seem to be worried about pushing trains through a trailing crossover, that's no problem it is pulling trains into a crossover that is the problem which this should not be. Curved points have curved crossing 'V's and providing care is taken they cause no problems. John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Smith Posted July 23, 2017 Share Posted July 23, 2017 These designs are only for turning a locomotive by the look of them. Surely a turntable takes up less room....! The Tennessee Valley RR has a triangle which it uses to turn whole trains, usually a loco and two or three passenger cars from memory. However at the other end of the line there is a turntable! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaz Posted July 23, 2017 Author Share Posted July 23, 2017 (edited) These designs are only for turning a locomotive by the look of them. Surely a turntable takes up less room....! The Tennessee Valley RR has a triangle which it uses to turn whole trains, usually a loco and two or three passenger cars from memory. However at the other end of the line there is a turntable! I agree with you, the aerial photos must be used to turn locos - the spurs off the ends are not long enough for a train. I was going to use the wye junction to turn whole trains but have decided to revise the design - the complete oval will still be laid so that the coal trains, loaded and empty can run past the terminal station as I always intended. Passenger trains and freights will turn off the oval and run onto the peninsular baseboard and a turntable will turn the locos. In the photo above... The curve at the top, behind the red glue pot is the extent so far of the line from Stoke's Ferry. Next is a paper template for a #5 LH turnout. Then the grey card strip, cut to a 24 inch radius, represents the main line into the terminal. Another LH turnout connects the track leading to the turntable, also 24 inch. The paper circle represents a 13.5 inch turntable. The length of Peco OO track behind the turntable is on the realignment for the colliery branch, clearing the back of the turntable. This all seems to work well and avoids the need for any "dodgy" pointwork. The only complication is that the doodlebug that will operate the colliery line service will have to reverse out of the terminal before heading up the valley to the mine (and on its return will have to run past the junction and then reverse in). Chaz I am quite excited by the prospect of a turntable. The Kitwood Hill kit includes a very slow running motor and gearbox. If I power this through a loco decoder I will be able to control it with the DCC handsets. The area to the right (where the packet of PCB ties are lying) will do nicely for the two-road engine house I have a kit for. Edited July 24, 2017 by chaz 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaz Posted July 23, 2017 Author Share Posted July 23, 2017 Hi Chaz Don't beat yourself up over this. Peco do a narrow gauge wye point which is of a tighter radius than 21 inch and the Bachmann stuff runs through it OK. As long as the rails on the crossing 'V' line up everything it will be fine. If you are worried produce a skeleton point using PCB strip and lay some track up to it. A bit of test running will prove it then all you have to do is put some wood ties in the gaps. Also you seem to be worried about pushing trains through a trailing crossover, that's no problem it is pulling trains into a crossover that is the problem which this should not be. Curved points have curved crossing 'V's and providing care is taken they cause no problems. John Thanks for that John. I think real switch crossings are always straight to avoid the wheel flanges hitting the nose of the "V" or worse taking the wrong route. I doubt the wisdom of propelling a train through a long switch with a curved crossing (frog!) - not a crossover. But you will see from the posting above that I have revised the design. This has the big plus for me that all the switches I need for this design can be built on my Fast Tracks jig. I wasn't looking forward to making a wye point without a jig and a long curved point is even more worrying. Chaz Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shadow Posted July 24, 2017 Share Posted July 24, 2017 Has the engine shed got (or be modified to have) a through line? You could then add a second entry into the turntable from there. Dave Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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