Phil Brighton Posted October 21, 2020 Author Share Posted October 21, 2020 2 hours ago, Joseph_Pestell said: Your ability at recreating teak finish is as good as any that I have seen. Thanks. It's all about the Ronseal Teak Woodstain I had left over from doing the front door! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Joseph_Pestell Posted October 21, 2020 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 21, 2020 57 minutes ago, Phil Brighton said: Thanks. It's all about the Ronseal Teak Woodstain I had left over from doing the front door! Is it just the Ronseal that has given you the darker weathered colour around the edges of the panelling? Or some extra weathering with inks/powders? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Brighton Posted October 21, 2020 Author Share Posted October 21, 2020 55 minutes ago, Joseph_Pestell said: Is it just the Ronseal that has given you the darker weathered colour around the edges of the panelling? Or some extra weathering with inks/powders? The whole process is: Brown undercoat Cream on the panels Using a couple of different shades of brown for variety paint the panels using a thin coat so as not to obliterate the cream completely 2 or 3 thin coats of wood stain. Transfers Cover the whole thing in black weathering powder and then remove most of it with wet cotton buds Brush on varnish Line if needed Varying the shade of the undercoat, the shade of the brown paints over the cream and the number of coats of stain can all give a different look to the teak. Pictures show the shade varies a lot with age on he coaches. 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold nest Posted October 23, 2020 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 23, 2020 Excellent work as expected by now Phil Nestor Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Brighton Posted November 15, 2020 Author Share Posted November 15, 2020 Nu-Cast J3 underway. Struggled a bit with the Hi-Level gearbox this time and couldn't get the first gear to fit under the worm so it engages off centre to enable it to fit. I must have done something silly somewhere. However it does run very smoothly albeit with quite a lot of noise. 10 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
2750Papyrus Posted November 15, 2020 Share Posted November 15, 2020 For some reason I have previously missed this thread and it's lovely modelling. Is the J3 K's on a new chassis? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Brighton Posted November 15, 2020 Author Share Posted November 15, 2020 I don't know the origin of the Nu-Cast kit but wouldn't surprise me if originally Ks. The chassis is brass but also not very detailed or up to date. No brakes for example so I had to add them myself. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium thegreenhowards Posted November 23, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted November 23, 2020 Phil, I've just found this thread after your post with the CBE on Wright Writes. Excellent stuff and I particularly love your rendition of teak as others have said. That silhouette cutter looks the business as well - makes my Kirk cut ‘n’ shuts look a bit basic! I base my own layout on the timetable for Hatfield (although the track plan is pure fiction), so just down the line from you but 20 years later. I shall follow with interest. Andy 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Brighton Posted December 22, 2020 Author Share Posted December 22, 2020 Given how quiet Christmas is this year I have started a kit I had been collecting bits for over the year. Its the first full brass loco kit (and first one not bought secondhand) I have attempted. A PDK P1 2-8-2. All going together nicely so far but I have had puzzle over how to get the motor in without it being seen in the large gap between the running plate and boiler. I have settled on setting the gearbox on its back and having motor vertical. This meant using the mini-drill to carve out the top of the resin firebox to enable it to fit and I will need to workout some way of doing the rear pony truck, but will cross that bridge when I come to it. 10 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Brighton Posted December 27, 2020 Author Share Posted December 27, 2020 Chassis is working with about 4-5mm of resin removed from the top of the boiler. Lead sheet gives some weight with a little slot for the decoder to poke into. The kit goes together very well and makes a change from the filling and filing of old whitemetal kits. Instructions aren't that clear though! 13 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Brighton Posted January 1, 2021 Author Share Posted January 1, 2021 P1 chassis has been painted and is drying so here are a few other things I have been finishing up. Nu-cast J3, a D&S LNER horsebox and the old Hornby Gresley conversion I started first and finished last. The coach is a 56'6" full brake which needed to the Hornby coach to be shortened and narrowed. I have't been able to find anything yet to tell me where to put transfers on the horsebox so if there is any help with that it would be very useful. 11 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium thegreenhowards Posted January 2, 2021 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 2, 2021 On 01/01/2021 at 21:17, Phil Brighton said: P1 chassis has been painted and is drying so here are a few other things I have been finishing up. Nu-cast J3, a D&S LNER horsebox and the old Hornby Gresley conversion I started first and finished last. The coach is a 56'6" full brake which needed to the Hornby coach to be shortened and narrowed. I have't been able to find anything yet to tell me where to put transfers on the horsebox so if there is any help with that it would be very useful. Phil, I have the Parkside instructions for a similar LNER D.5 horsebox which gives positions for that. Would you like a copy? Andy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Brighton Posted January 3, 2021 Author Share Posted January 3, 2021 2 hours ago, thegreenhowards said: Phil, I have the Parkside instructions for a similar LNER D.5 horsebox which gives positions for that. Would you like a copy? Andy Yes please if you have them and can snap a picture or scan. Thanks Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium thegreenhowards Posted January 3, 2021 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 3, 2021 8 hours ago, Phil Brighton said: Yes please if you have them and can snap a picture or scan. Thanks PM sent. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Brighton Posted January 10, 2021 Author Share Posted January 10, 2021 P1 progress. My first go at Walschaerts and it works. There was *some* swearing involved but not as much as I feared. 12 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Brighton Posted January 29, 2021 Author Share Posted January 29, 2021 I think its time for the paintshop. A bit of trouble getting the thing to balance as the whitemetal booster hanging right out the rear pulled the centre of gravity back and meant the front wheels didn't have enough weight over them. This caused them to rise up and over the frogs on some points. I have stuffed as much lead between the frames as possible as far forward as I can and sprung the rear truck wheel. This seems to have sorted it though I can't say I am convinced the spring does much. At least its a simple paint job. 8 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Brighton Posted February 6, 2021 Author Share Posted February 6, 2021 P1 finished 15 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
2750Papyrus Posted February 6, 2021 Share Posted February 6, 2021 Very nice, a favourite loco of mine. I wish they had survived to the days of the GC Windcutters. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Brighton Posted February 6, 2021 Author Share Posted February 6, 2021 29 minutes ago, 2750Papyrus said: Very nice, a favourite loco of mine. I wish they had survived to the days of the GC Windcutters. Agreed. I don't fully understand the reason they were cut up so early. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Brighton Posted February 21, 2021 Author Share Posted February 21, 2021 A few years ago I manged to pick up these GNR D&S kits off ebay for £20 each. Was pretty pleased with that - no one else bid. With a lot of talk of 6 wheel coaches about I thought I would give them a go. Have done the Luggage Brake and it's ready for painting. They really are very nice kits to build. Only the brake gear gave me any difficulties and I ending up fudging it a bit so you can still get the wheels out if needs be. Hopefully the 3rd and composite should be pretty straight forward as they as identical in construction methods. (The Luggage Brake isn't screwed to the chassis and the roof isn't glued down. Will be done after painting.) 14 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Brighton Posted April 9, 2021 Author Share Posted April 9, 2021 Its mixed media time when it comes to coaches here. First up the three D&S brass kits are very nearly ready for painting. Islinglass 3D printed milk brake sides have been bought to be stuck on a non-corridor plastic kirk kit. Finally another go at a Diagram3D kit - this time for a GNR Howlden coach. Laser cut card. Very thin but all loaded into the 'Smart frame'. 11 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BWsTrains Posted November 6, 2021 Share Posted November 6, 2021 Phil, I'm considering trying the Diagram3D GWR Siphon kits, any further comments on how your kit went together? Any pics of the finished product? Regards, Colin Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Brighton Posted November 7, 2021 Author Share Posted November 7, 2021 21 hours ago, BWsTrains said: Phil, I'm considering trying the Diagram3D GWR Siphon kits, any further comments on how your kit went together? Any pics of the finished product? Regards, Colin Hi Colin, Sorry no pictures of the finished thing, as I haven't finished it! I have a mate with a 3D printer and I have done up a whole bunch of parts, vents, underframe, bogies on Tinkercad but he is taking his sweet time about getting round to printing them. It's on hold till then, I must give him a prod. Here is a picture of where I have got to. I am not a huge fan of card as a material but I think I will get a decent end result. I didn't spray the card with something to seal it and really should have done. Overall if you want the prototype they offer the main consideration is are you confident you can build the underframe etc. If so then give it a go I recon. 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Brighton Posted July 10, 2022 Author Share Posted July 10, 2022 (edited) Has been a while again. Finally gave up waiting for my mate to 3D print the parts I had designed and persuaded him to just lend me the printer. After a lot of faffing and getting bits wrong I got to the point where I could get usable results. Here is a bunch of smaller items - all made in Tinkercad. Mansell wheel inserts, lamps, GNR roof fittings and some underframe parts. The wheel inserts were the final parts needed for the D&S GNR 6 wheelers which are now weathered and complete. Edited July 10, 2022 by Phil Brighton 11 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Brighton Posted July 10, 2022 Author Share Posted July 10, 2022 (edited) Now am moving forward on some of the other coaches and using my own designed and printed fox bogies. This is the isinglass Milk brake sides sides on kirk ends and roof I also saw a nice photo of an earlier Howlden milk brake in an article I tracked down in a magazine about milk trains. The sides are from plasticard and the roof 3d printed. I tried making the beading from sticky back plastic rather than plasticard and it has come out much better. Easier to keep straight and will cut finer on the silhouette cutter. Edited July 10, 2022 by Phil Brighton spelling 13 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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