RMweb Premium 30368 Posted May 7, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted May 7, 2020 Great model I have 3 Hornby and a white metal 700 which is 30368. Can't help on the DCC probs sorry! Kind regards, Richard B Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwealleans Posted January 8, 2022 Share Posted January 8, 2022 (edited) I posted about this on my own thread (after Googling) and had very little response, so I'll post it here. Maybe I am the only person to have encountered this problem. We bought a 700 for Ormesby Hall when they came out - a few were superheated before the end of the LSWR, so we can justify it. it still awaits repainting into LSWR green. After a couple of seasons of faultless running it became jerky and eventually wold only run in reverse. On examination, the driven crankpins (the ones on the trailing wheels) had worn almost through. The coupling rod had sawn through the pin just behind the hex head until there was almost nothing left. At the time we needed it fixed, so I replaced rods and the defective crankpins and put it back into service. At the end of this season I was told it was showing the same symptoms and indeed had developed exactly the same fault. This time I've replaced the crankpins with Romford (the threads seem to be the same), soldered a brass washer onto the front of each coupling rod and used a small top hat bearing on the crankpin. Remarkably, considering how unscientifically I did it, it runs. We'll see how long that repair lasts. Has anyone else had this same problem? I know our locos work far more than most, but it seems odd that only ours has been affected by now. Edited January 9, 2022 by jwealleans 2 5 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robin Brasher Posted January 8, 2022 Author Share Posted January 8, 2022 Thank you for the information, I assume you are running it on the Corfe Castle layout at Ormesby Hall, I am also modelling Corfe Castle and perhaps I should paint one of my 700s in LSWR livery. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikesndbs Posted January 8, 2022 Share Posted January 8, 2022 A well known fault, imprerrative to keep the pins lubricaited! I understand spares are available. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 31A Posted January 8, 2022 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 8, 2022 But I wonder what causes it; I have never heard of that with any other Hornby Locos? For example I've got two J15s which are probably quite similar mechanically and have run quite a few miles but the crankpins seem quite OK. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold adb968008 Posted January 9, 2022 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 9, 2022 (edited) Maybe the coupling rod is ever so slightly too long, or the hole in the rod just slightly out of place in relation to the hex bolt, so its grinding on the pin ? Spares are available, maybe experiment with a set by slightly (0.25mm ) enlarging the hole in the rod to give it a slight bit more flex as the wheel rotates ? it could also be the wheel slightly out of true, or even the axle hole not quite 90 degrees to the wheels and moving about ?.. either way it sounds like if its not impacting performance its a minor amount of adjustment needed. Does the wheel not have any protruding bush for the rod to sit on ? - usually the bolt is to stop the rods coming off, rather than for the rod to sit / rotate on… I have seen some where the bush/screw thread has moved slightly towards the inner side of the wheel.. simply pushing it back out works, then hang the rod back on it. Edited January 9, 2022 by adb968008 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robin Brasher Posted January 9, 2022 Author Share Posted January 9, 2022 I saw a Hornby Tornado for sale recently. One of the crankpins was missing so it is a fault worth looking out for. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwealleans Posted January 9, 2022 Share Posted January 9, 2022 I did change the rods, although there was no visible difference in the new pair from the old. I wondered about quartering, but the running was superb right from the off and given that this is the driven axle, I didn't want to compromise that. There is no protruding bush on any of the wheelsets, that was one of the first things I looked for. If that is the problem then it's happened on all three, which seems too much of a coincidence. We ruled out enlarging the rod holes - there's not much material there to start with and the root of the problem was reduction of the crankpin size - which is another way of achieving the same thing, so we decided against. The loco will go back ready for reopening in February and we'll keep an eye on it. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikesndbs Posted January 9, 2022 Share Posted January 9, 2022 My feeling on this is that it was the early models that had very lose connecting rod hinges, such that there was a lot of slop, given this is the driving acxel I think this is the cause. If you buy new rods X6941 the slop is not there, the rivet is there but it does not move. New rods should then solve it hopefuly? 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Mallard60022 Posted January 9, 2022 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 9, 2022 Appreciate the comments here as it means I can check my couple for 'slop', having not run them for some time. Phil 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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