RMweb Gold chris p bacon Posted February 5, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 5, 2014 Hi Chris, I'm not sure that drilling out the mortar would be the best idea. I don't think it is known if there is debris/soil above the dpc, and even if it is clear at the moment, it may not be in a few years time. I think I would have the lower vents on the inside of the garage, through the new stud walling. Best wishes, Ray Hello Ray On houses of the last 40+ years the DPC Must be 150mm from ground level, Andy can check if the shed is sitting on a slab above this by looking over the fence. As far as pulling air from the garage, not so good as it relies on the cool air being drawn from outside and rising to the roof (convection) the atmosphere in the garage should be warmer and may not be so effective. Fans - If you get a good flow of air from outside then they won't be needed, nature can do it for you. Must dash picking up Madam.. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyB Posted February 5, 2014 Author Share Posted February 5, 2014 Hello Ray On houses of the last 40+ years the DPC Must be 150mm from ground level, Andy can check if the shed is sitting on a slab above this by looking over the fence. As far as pulling air from the garage, not so good as it relies on the cool air being drawn from outside and rising to the roof (convection) the atmosphere in the garage should be warmer and may not be so effective. Fans - If you get a good flow of air from outside then they won't be needed, nature can do it for you. Must dash picking up Madam.. Hi, Dave, I'll check and get back to you - may need to do so in a few days. I'm assuming this is to get the relative height between its base (if there is one) and my own damp course? Best, Andy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold chris p bacon Posted February 5, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 5, 2014 Hi, Dave, I'll check and get back to you - may need to do so in a few days. I'm assuming this is to get the relative height between its base (if there is one) and my own damp course? Best, Andy You should have 2 bricks showing between the ground /paving and the DPC, you should be able to make out a thin black line (the DPC membrane) if not just look for a thick bed joint of cement. If you have only 1 brick showing it is sufficient but not the standard. I doubt you will have a problem as if the ground were higher you would have a terrible damp mark with salts showing at the base of the wall, which by the sound you don't. Does it all make sense or is there anything that needs clarifying ? We were discussing this today on site and the others thought it would be a suitable simple solution. Although the plasterer said "stick the shed up his neighbours a**e, he'd notice the damp then"..... he did agree that while in theory it would possibly have the desired effect, he noted there were some practical issues with the insertion, although he was willing to try several times for a flat day rate and fuel...........he's a keen lad..... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
raymw Posted February 5, 2014 Share Posted February 5, 2014 Hi Chris, I thought that cold air was more dense, and that it was warm air that rises. Best wishes, Ray Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold chris p bacon Posted February 6, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 6, 2014 Hi Chris, I thought that cold air was more dense, and that it was warm air that rises. Best wishes, Ray Yes it is ray, but the warmer air in the garage roof will pull the air in from outside and provide a more consistant flow. It's not perfect but the best solution given the circumstance. I checked with the ventilation technician at the architects today and he thought it was ok Jobs like this are tricky because there are sometimes better solutions but the conditions (neighbours etc) preclude them. The best solution is the removal of the shed but if you weigh up the possible aggravation, headache and general nuisance then this has to be easier. Also if the shed should ever move/rot/fall over/burn down then all that is required to return it to it's previous state is to point up the holes in the perps. Andy needs to build a railway, then he can relax......provided he has the rivet count correct.....and the correct headlamps....and no German smoke deflectors..... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyB Posted February 6, 2014 Author Share Posted February 6, 2014 Thanks, again, Dave. Most helpful and all clear now. Please thank your colleagues, also, for their input. I'd throw in a couple of beers as well as petrol and a day rate! Many others would like to see him at work so we could probably sell tickets. Relating to Ray's point, the garage roof is SE facing on the relevant wall so there is a significant temperature gradient to draw air upwards when we put the slots in. I'm noting that we will have to use a relatively short drill bit as we wouldn't want to damage the neighbour's shed when we drill through. I have visions of withdrawing the drill bit and finding evidence we went through the shed wall and into various paint pots, freezer and motorbike that all reside in his shed! All the best, Andy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium PhilJ W Posted February 6, 2014 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 6, 2014 Thanks, again, Dave. Most helpful and all clear now. Please thank your colleagues, also, for their input. I'd throw in a couple of beers as well as petrol and a day rate! Many others would like to see him at work so we could probably sell tickets. Relating to Ray's point, the garage roof is SE facing on the relevant wall so there is a significant temperature gradient to draw air upwards when we put the slots in. I'm noting that we will have to use a relatively short drill bit as we wouldn't want to damage the neighbour's shed when we drill through. I have visions of withdrawing the drill bit and finding evidence we went through the shed wall and into various paint pots, freezer and motorbike that all reside in his shed! All the best, Andy A brick is 4.5 inches (114 mm) wide. You can use a longer drill just put a piece of tape around the drill bit 115 mm from the tip as a guide. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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