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Deadmans Lane. Racing to York. Easter 2024


newbryford
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]Hi Mick

 

Just going through my Smug Mug site uploading some pictures of my layout and knowing your love of all things yellow thought you might like these. Been lucky enough to get up close and personal when they've rocked up at some of the locations I've been working.

 

post-18515-0-38831000-1417982350.jpg

37038 Stourbridge Yard

 

post-18515-0-90053800-1417982376.jpg

37604 Stourbridge Junction

 

post-18515-0-44780200-1417982399.jpg

37059 Tyseley

 

post-18515-0-12641400-1417983114.jpg

37609 Tyseley

 

post-18515-0-01305600-1417982422.jpg

37611 Chiltern Railways carriage sidings at Birmingham Moor Street

 

post-18515-0-53836200-1417983319.jpg

37604 Birmingham Moor Street bay platforms

 

Hope you like them

Cheers

Marcus

 

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On 07/07/2014 at 01:18, newbryford said:

 

 

Today, I managed to cut down the excess screw heads at the rail joints. A mini drill and grinding/cutting disc were used.

attachicon.gifDL9.jpg

attachicon.gifDL10.jpg

 

They still need a final tidying up, but once I add the cosmetic sleepers back into place, I'm confident that the joints will not be too prominent.

 

 

 

I've been busy with fitting the cosmetic sleepers to disguise the screws.

 

This is the starting point

track14.jpg.671cddcd9a24ef5cd0b38f97d5f1a190.jpg

 

 

Using spare sleeper mouldings - retained from when the track was laid (a good modeller never throws anything away...)

track15.jpg.cf250b55390030ac9bc9cf6c06947133.jpg

 

 

They are then cut to match the spaces. I've even cut the middle section diagonally on one sleeper, as it's directly across a board joint. The two halves will be on adjacent boards.

track16.jpg.1c76948b822d3b3fed0f25542c8ceef1.jpg

 

 

I "undercut" the sections, so that they fit snugly up to the rail.

This shows top: original moulding, middle - side view of the undercut, bottom: the cut sections

track17.jpg.a0e2d57511a43940d0e2b6299328687f.jpg

 

 

And this is how it ends up. (The errant sleeper has been moved....)

track18.jpg.de178962ec0955fb23a47016917d91b1.jpg

 

 

Once painted and ballasted, I'm sure (hoping) that they'll be almost invisible

 

Cheers,

Mick

Edited by newbryford
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That's very neat work there Mick.

 

I've been busy with fitting the cosmetic sleepers to disguise the screws.

 

This is the starting point

attachicon.giftrack14.jpg

 

Using spare sleeper mouldings - retained from when the track was laid (a good modeller never throws anything away...)

attachicon.giftrack15.jpg

 

They are then cut to match the spaces. I've even cut the middle section diagonally on one sleeper, as it's directly across a board joint. The two halves will be on adjacent boards.

attachicon.giftrack16.jpg

 

I "undercut" the sections, so that they fit snugly up to the rail.

This shows top: original moulding, middle - side view of the undercut, bottom: the cut sections

attachicon.giftrack17.jpg

 

And this is how it ends up. (The errant sleeper has been moved....)

attachicon.giftrack18.jpg

 

Once painted and ballasted, I'm sure (hoping) that they'll be almost invisible

 

Cheers,

Mick

 

How accurate will the join remain, when the boards are taken down and put back?  ............   I ask because most of the proposed joins on the plan I [so far] have are at 45o to the board edge.

 

I had rather assumed that it might be better in the circumstances to have a removable 6" stretch at each one to absorb any differences.  There are difficulties with that too, I guess.

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That's very neat work there Mick.

 

 

How accurate will the join remain, when the boards are taken down and put back?  ............   I ask because most of the proposed joins on the plan I [so far] have are at 45o to the board edge.

 

I had rather assumed that it might be better in the circumstances to have a removable 6" stretch at each one to absorb any differences.  There are difficulties with that too, I guess.

 

I have a couple at an angle, but not near the 45deg of yours. I've split and remade the joint a couple of times and all is well. However, as backup, I'm thinking of puuting a small blob of epoxy adhesive on the inside edge of the sleepers, that have been cut across a joint, to minimise any risk of accidentally knocking them off. The ballast should also doa decent job of holding it all together as well.

 

Problem with removable sections is that they are a pain to put back in - especially if you have a few across a joint and they are another thing to lose/misplace when taking the layout down. I'm not sure how you would go for ballasting them.

 

If you're only planning on the odd time of assembly/disassembly, then yes, they would work.

 

If it's only a cosmetic joint - not in a scenic section, then go for full copper clad pcb style.

 

Cheers,

Mick

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Thank you Mick, that's lots of food for thought.

 

It has triggered off the idea that a few joins might go under cover of a concrete or tarmac Yard and another under a Railway crossing.  I even toyed with the idea of putting one station complete on a piece of Ply and bolting it in place across several joins - although I might have to think quite hard about power to it.  Even with all that, I can't get away with several others, so your Link has certainly fueled some other thoughts which would not otherwise have been present. ..    :scratchhead:

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IHi Mick,

I was thinking about the Copper-clad you put the link to and wondered if a similar effect could be obtained by glueing the track, complete with Sleepers, direct to end bits of Ply.

 

Your mention of ballasting made me think about that too  .....   

 

I came up with a sort of combination of the 2,  http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/75123-light-sandwich-with-yet-other-idea/page-11&do=findComment&comment=1700638

 

I also think it would be possible to run Droppers through the ply to plugs on the underside of the Base-boards.

 

I think it may just work and I have to thank you for making me think in a different way about it all.

 

 

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You've been a bit quiet......you tend to worry me when your quiet.....i wonder what the blxxdy 'ell you are up to next LOL. I hope it will involve in time some pictures of nicely modelled locos and their paraphernalia. Anyway....in the meantime.....and with no further delay.....as we might not speak before.....

 

We Wish You a Merry Christmas....and a HAPPY New Year........

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You've been a bit quiet......you tend to worry me when your quiet.....i wonder what the blxxdy 'ell you are up to next LOL. I hope it will involve in time some pictures of nicely modelled locos and their paraphernalia. Anyway....in the meantime.....and with no further delay.....as we might not speak before.....

 

We Wish You a Merry Christmas....and a HAPPY New Year........

 

Some stuff will be on the yellow workbench thread soon - partly for New Bryford, but also for DL.

 

 

Cheers,

Mick

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You've been a bit quiet......you tend to worry me when your quiet.....i wonder what the blxxdy 'ell you are up to next LOL. I hope it will involve in time some pictures of nicely modelled locos and their paraphernalia. Anyway....in the meantime.....and with no further delay.....as we might not speak before.....

 

We Wish You a Merry Christmas....and a HAPPY New Year........

 

 

And a ....

 

MERRY CHRISTMAS

 

:sungum:  :sungum:  :sungum:

 

from us too

 

and thank you for the kind advice

 

And a Merry Crimbletide to you all also.

 

Cheers,

Mick

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I need to make some boards to link the front scenic section to the rear fiddle yards.

I'm looking at a simple double track curve of 3' radius with short straight in between the 90 degree curves, so would be typically two 4'x3' boards to make up a 180degree curve (8'x3' is a bit large to transport).

However, they'll only be large flat expanses of board with no scenery.

 

post-408-0-92522900-1424807392_thumb.jpg

 

To save weight and storage space, I'm thinking of making some thin "track only" boards to link the front and back.

 

post-408-0-98042000-1424807151_thumb.jpg

 

If anyone has any good/bad experiences of this type of board, I'd be most grateful.

 

Cheers,

Mick

Edited by newbryford
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Mick

 

I may help if you make a jig fixture to build all four curved section on so all four are exactly the same that way you should be able to build them

so they don't twist over time as curved boards tend to twist if they don't have sufficient bracing compared to oblong boards.

 

Get Tim Horn to laser cut you the tops and common end parts as that will help and make to construction easier.

 

Pete 

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I agree - speak to Tim Horn and discuss with him - he has just the equipment you need to plan and cut the boards.

 

I had a similar, smaller more basic space problem and the boards are shown on my thread [near the end pages].  You will presumably want something of a different shape/size but he can do that for you.  He is very good at seeing what you want, too.

 

Regards

 

Julian

Edited by jcredfer
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After correspondence with Tim Horn, it looks like my curved (and flat storage yard) boards will be coming from his workshops.

The idea is to make the lower sides from ply and then after the boards are glued together, laminate a 3mm MDF layer to create the raised side. I believe this will also help prevent the boards from twisting.

 

Cheers,

Mick

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