Introduction to using Inkscape to produce cutting files

[Grovenor]

Mike,

Thanks from me also, I have looked at Inkscape a few times and not got into it, today I got a start thanks to you and have a simple project to use it for, hope to get a bit of time during the week.

Regards

Keith

[Siberian Snooper]

Hi Mike

 

These tutorials are starting to get interesting now that I can see that we are heading in the direction of rolling stock.

 

Many thanks.

 

SS

Edited January 5, 2014 by Siberian Snooper

[MikeTrice]

These tutorials are starting to get interesting now that I can see that we are heading in the direction of rolling stock.

Unfortunately we have to cover the basics first!

[Siberian Snooper]

Unfortunately we have to cover the basics first!

 

Hi Mike

 

Me trying to run before I can walk. . Keep it coming, I look forward to your next informative instalment

 

SS.

[MikeTrice]

Me trying to run before I can walk. . Keep it coming, I look forward to your next informative instalment

Flattery will get you everywhere. I do know the feeling, so I will go back to basics for the moment before returning to the Coal Office. If anyone objects, we know who to blame! Of course you don't have to wait for me as I cannot help feeling it will be slow progress as I can only commit so much time per evening.

[MikeTrice]

Back to basics for a couple of sessions to build on earlier topics. I do hope people are trying out Inkscape as just reading about it is no substitute.

 

Earlier we looked at drawing straight lines and I advised against dragging the mouse when drawing. Now we will find out what happens if you do.

 

Here I have selected the Draw Bezier curves tool in the left hand toolbar, but instead of just clicking to start the line I have kept the mouse button down and dragged the mouse to the right before releasing:

 

Moving towards the centre of the screen I repeated the process clicking with the mouse button then dragging the mouse vertically before releasing:

 

And finally a third point also dragged before releasing:

 

When finished, as with straight lines, press the Enter/Carriage Return key. Here the Pointer tool has been selected to show the finished shape complete with sizing handles:

 

Dragging one of the sizing handles will stretch the curve:

 

Now I have selected the "Edit path by node" tool in the toolbar. The display changes to show the nodes that make up the curve corresponding to the points we originally clicked the mouse before dragging (adjusted by the stretch earlier):

 

Clicking on one of the nodes (in this case the centre one) selects it and displays the direction handles:

 

On this view I have clicked on the little circle at the end of the direction handles and dragged it to the left to reshape the curve:

 

And now the same handle has been dragged upwards. Clearly the further the endpoint of the handle is from the node the more the curve is influenced in that direction:

 

Clicking and dragging the node to the left has this impact:

 

Finally the Pointer tool has been reselected:

 

Bezier curves are a very powerful feature but they do take some getting used to so I recommend practice to get the feel for them.

[MikeTrice]

Continuing playing with lines it is perfectly possible to vary just clicking for line segements and dragging the odd point to form compound shapes:

 

Here two line segments have been drawn but not yet finished by pressing Enter:

 

Now the third line segment has been added by clicking on the original starting point:

 

Once created the object can be rotated using the rotation handles:

 

Or filled via the Object Fill and Stroke, or as I have done here by clicking on the fill colour on the bottom toolbar:

 

Switching to "edit by path" mode and dragging one of the nodes to new location:

 

Starting with a two line segment thus:

 

Now I have selected the Draw bezier curve tool, clicked on the last end point then clicked again further along. The new line segment is added to the existing one:

 

Here I have a three sided triangle but I have failed to join the apex point correctly:

 

With the Edit by path tool selected, select the top two nodes by selecting via a bounding box with the mouse:

 

By clicking on the node join tool on the top toolbar, the two nodes can be joined:

 

This time I have selected the two right hand nodes:

 

And clicked on the Add node toolbar:

 

With the new node selected on its own, it can now be dragged to a new location changing the shape:

[MikeTrice]

Before resuming drawing the Coal Office a quick recap of what we have covered so far:

• Zooming
• Document Properties
• Drawing
  • Rectangles (inc rounded corners)
  • Circles/Ellipses
  • Lines
  • Curves
• Fill and stroke styles
• Selecting
• Resizing and moving
• Group/Ungroup
• Node editing
• Layers inc locking and visibility
• Importing a bitmap

Quite a lot really. So far I have given very specific instructions on how to carry out these basic functions however it is now time to step things up a bit and assume you know these basics. If not, have a play, and if you get stuck, ask a question. There are a number of RMWebbers who know Inkscape that will help bring you up to speed. 

[MikeTrice]

Back to that Coal Office. This is the state we left it in:

 

Now there are many ways of proceeding, some based on what we have covered so far, and some using more advanced techniques requiring more basic tutorials, so for the moment I will start describing a basic approach

 

Select and unlock the "Guides" layer. We do not need the sizing rectangle any more so select it and delete it:

 

Draw a horizonal line across the bitmap (press the Ctrl key while drawing to ensure it is horizontal). Select it and change its stroke width to 0.1mm. Finally change its colour by pressing the Shift key and clicking on the Cyan button on the bottom toolbar:

 

We can keep drawing lines however an easier option is to duplicate an existing one, by clicking on it, pressing Ctrl-D then moving the new line by dragging it with the mouse while holding the Ctrl key. Repeat for the other lines:

 

Zoom in and adjust the guidelines to align with the building features (again keeping the Ctrl key pressed when moving):

 

Finally repeat the process for the vertical guides. When complete lock the Guides layer:

 

Before I go any further, now I am not describing things in such detail, is the level about right?

[MikeTrice]

Moving on.

 

Create a new layer: "Master". Draw a rectangle (zooming in on the guidelines to ensure alignment) then set the colour to red: To help with visibility in the creen images I have set a line width of 0.2mm.

 

Duplicate the rectangle (Ctrl-D) then move it to the right using either the arrow keys, or drag it with the mouse whilst pressing the Ctrl key. Align the left hand edge to the right hand edge of the first rectangle (zoom in when necessary) and adjust the width of the new rectangle as required:

 

Note that the status display tells you that you have a rectangle selected. Click on "Path" -> "Object to path" (I will cover this in more depth in a later session). Afterwards the status bar reports we now have a path.

 

Zoom in on the top of the new rectangle:

 

Switch to Node edit mode and select the top two nodes (either click on each one in turn while pressing Shift).

 

Click on the "Add node" toolbar button. A new node will appear in the middle between the two selected nodes:

 

Deselect the nodes (easiest way is to just click off the path) then click on the path again to redisplay the nodes and select the centre one. Drag the centre node vertically (while pressing the Ctrl key) until it reaches the guide line. Again zoom in if necessary to get it spot on:

 

Scroll across to the location of the side window and draw a rectangle:

 

Create a second rectangle inside the first:

 

Select both rectangles and click "Object" -> "Align and distribute". Click on the horizontal and vertical centre buttons:

 

This is what you should have:

 

Draw a rectangle to represent the door. I chose to make it 12mm x 26mm and match the bottom edge to the bottom edge of the side:

 

Duplicate the door rectange and change its dimensions to 14mm x 27mm. Select both and use align centre horizontally:

 

Our office now looks like this:

 

I decided the end was a bit on the narrow side, so I selected it and using the resizing handle stretched it on the right hand side to increase the width:

 

I also decided I wanted a slightly smaller door so I resized it and moved it slightly to the left:

[MikeTrice]

To draw the panels in the door I started off drawing a vertical line and centering it in the door frame:

 

First panel drawn:

 

First panel is duplicated and moved to the top left while pressing Ctrl:

 

Both panels selected and resized to fit the door:

 

First two panels duplicated and moved to right hand side while pressing Ctrl:

 

All four panels selected and grouped:

 

Door frame and panels selected and centered horizontally:

 

The green vertical line can now be deleted:

 

Right hand window added:

 

Inner frame added and centered vertically and horizontally in the outer frame and grouped:

 

Vertical temporary bar added to window and centred:

[MikeTrice]

Middle horizontal line added and centered:

 

Zoomed in on window. Note that the green working lines were set to 0.5mm width, the minimum reliably cut with the Silhouette :

 

Top left window added using the edge of the middle glazing bar as a guide:

 

Duplicated to right:

 

Both top windows duplicated and moved to bottom half:

 

And grouped (although I did not really need to do this):

 

Moving across to draw the bells using the Ellipse tool drawn with the Ctrl key pressed, then duplicated and moved to the right, then the two grouped:

 

The backing unit added then centered with the bells:

 

Zoomed to drawing to show current state:

 

We can now hide the Bitmap and Guide layers:

[MikeTrice]

On the home run (at last). With the other layers hidden I have now selected all the objects in the visible layer and changed their colour to black and line width to 0.1mm:

 

Now need to add the panelling. Draw a vertical line:

 

Zoom in, keep duplicating it moving them to the right spacing them around 2mm apart (accuracy at the point is not essential):

 

One side completed. Now select all the panel lines and distribute equaly as shown:

 

Group the lines then move and resize the group to match the wall edges:

 

Duplicate the panel line group and move to the right overlapping the right hand line of one with the left hand line of the other:

 

I decided to select the gabled end and resize it to match the panel lines:

 

Then reposition the door and side window:

 

Ungroup the lines then delete the unwanted ones at each end of a side, then select all objects and group:

 

Pat yourself on the back and wonder who is the most bored, you reading this or me writing it? The end is in sight when we tackle producing the actual cutting patterns.

Edited January 10, 2014 by MikeTrice

[JCL]

Not bored at all Mike. I think everyone is taking it in, and it's encouraging to know that people are giving Inkscape a go for the first time based upon your tutorials. I've learnt a few things myself. I don't want to drop you in it, but will you be doing a question and answer at the end?

[MikeTrice]

will you be doing a question and answer at the end?

Happy to do so, although I was not thinking of a general question and answer on all aspects of Inkscape, just those related to the topic. There may be value in having a separate Inkscape thread for general questions and it does not just have to be me that answers. IT would certainly be interesting to hear of anyone who has given Inkscape a go (or any drawing package come to that) as a result of these postings.

 

While between topics, one for Kenton who asked a while back for other uses of Inkscape. Well I did the artwork for this control panel using it:

Edited January 11, 2014 by MikeTrice

[MikeTrice]

This is the part of the process I quite enjoy as you feel you are finally working towards being able to cut the model and moving away from just drawing.

 

Jason's original thread used three distinct sets of drawings for the Coal Office: 20thou cut; 20thou score and 10thou cut. As we are using Inkscape we will use its Layer capability.

 

Select the "master" layer (avoid clicking on the layer name or it will try and edit it):

 

Click on the "+" sign below and add three layers representing out different cutting layers. For the moment leave them visible and unlocked:

 

Select the "master" layer again and ensure that all the drawing objects are selected and form a single group (this is not essential, it just makes the next stages easier):

 

Duplicate the selected group (Ctrl-D) then click on Shift-PageUp. With any luck the currently selected layer will move up from the Master layer (you can just make out the slightly darker background of the current layer in the right hand layers window):

 

Hopefully we have now copied our group to the Cut 20 thou layer. We can prove (or disprove) this by hiding the original Master layer. Is our group still visibile?

 

If it is not, redisplay the Master layer and select it, then click on the grouped objects to select them and repeat the Shift-PageUp. Hopefully it will work. For some reason I occassionally find it does not work first time.

 

Zoom to Page and move the group into the top left hand corner, or wherever you want to place them for cutting. Duplicate the group and move horizontally to the side of the first. We now have 4 walls for our Office instead of just two:

 

Group both sets of sides and repeat the process used previously e.g. select them, press Ctrl-D then Shift-PageUp so we end up with a copy on the Score 20 thou layer. We can now turn off visibility of the previous layer to confirm we have successfully copied and move the copy to the required layer. IT IS IMPORTANT AT THIS STAGE NOT TO MOVE ANY OF THE OBJECTS ON EITHER OF THESE TWO LAYERS AS WE NEED TO MAINTAIN REGISTRATION.

 

Finally repeat the process to copy and move the group to the final Cut 10thou layer:

 

Play around with the visibility settings to ensure that each of our cutting layers have the grouped image present.

 

Turn off the visibility of the two upper layers, ensure that Cut 20thou is selected, and visible and unlocked, then select the sides and ungroup them several times (watch the display in the bottom status bar to see if you still have groups involved):

 

Carefully select the score lines and delete them, together with the unwanted windows and door from the right hand walls:

[MikeTrice]

I have moved the bell out of the way as we do not want it cut out of the wall. We now need to decide exactly where we want the cutter to cut, which means deleting the lines we no longer want. Rather than just delete these, I have highlighted them in blue so you can see which ones I am about to delete:

 

Having deleted them I them decided I might as well use the waste space in the door way to cut the bell and have moved the various parts apart accordingly:

 

The finished Cut 20thou layer which I have now locked:

 

Turn off visibility of the Cut 20thou layer and switch to the Score 20thou layer, select the objects and ungroup several times, then delete all the objects except the score lines:

 

Just to check everything was Ok I then made the Cut 20thou visibile again. Whoops, the repositioned bell parts were going to get scored which I did not intend:

 

To rectify, I unlocked the Score 20thou layer and selected the score lines on the left hand wall:

 

I can now use the resizing handles to shorted them, then lock the layer again:

 

Now I can unlock the Cut 20thou layer and move the bell components to the area above the left hand wall away from the score lines:

 

We can now turn off visibility of the Cut and score 20thou layers and turn on the Cut 10thou. Here I have deleted the score lines and the office walls and moved the various door and window components together. Unlike the 20thou layers these do not have to stay aligned with the previous layer. Once again I have highlighted the various lines that I will delete. This usually takes some thinking through to ensure you can subsequently fix the cut items together:

 

And after deletion:

 

The various 10thou items rearranged on the page ready for final cutting:

 

Phew, we finally made it. I don't know who got bored the most, you folk reading it or me writing it. I donlt intend to go into the cutting process itself as that has been covered in Jason's thread, including the bit where I talk about cutting direct from Inkscape.

 

Basically the process is:

1. Load 20thou into the machine, switch off visibility off all layers except Score 20thou then print to the Silhouette using a small blade setting.
2. Without removing the styrene or cutting mat from the machine, increase the blade depth, switch off the Score 20thou layer and turn on the Cut 20thou layer then send that to the cutter.
3. Finally remove the 20thou sheet from the machine and replace with 10tou and cut the final layer

I will be honest and say that I would like more control over the cutter than Inkscape alone gives me, so it was quite disappointing to hear from Jason that CutWizard did not work properly (CutWizard is a third party cutter control software). What I typically have to do is run the same cutting layer several times to get the depth of cut I desire. This can be mmade easier by duplicating the objects on each layer two or three times before cutting, but remember to save you file first, and then don't save the mutiple duplicated version.

 

Remember that it extremely unlikely that you will manage to cut straight through the 20thou layer and the various components will need to be snapped out or assisted with a knife. Something I have not done here, but have done elsewhere is include a X from corner to corner of opening in the 20thou layers where I want to subsequently snap out waste.

 

As Jason asked earlier, feel free to ask questions if you have any. I have only scratched the surface of what Inkscape can do. Fortunately in order to create cutting files you only need to know so much, the rest can wait until you have a need for something more adventurous.

 

There are many ways to achieve the same result, but I have tried to document the process as I have physically done it (warts and all). If you find something does not go exactly as you expect click on Edit - Undo (repeating to step back though things since your last save) and try again. Save regularly, and during the early days you might want to save different versions as you progress.

 

Most importantly give Inkscape a try even if you have no intention of using to cut styrene as it can be used for many other things.

 

 

 

 

[edubs]

Thanks for this.

[MikeOxon]

My interests lie in the potential of the software and what it can do/has been used for - besides producing files for that. For example has Inkscape the potential of replacing TurboCAD for CAD drawings?

As this tutorial has developed, we have now seen examples of what this software can do.  In many ways, what can be done is governed by the user's imagination. 

 

Each CAD product has its own way of doing certain things (such as rounded corners) and some users may prefer one method over another.  Once you are familiar with one particular software, it is usually best to stick with it, unless you find there is something you simply cannot do.  That is the point to start looking for alternatives. (as an aside, that is why Microsoft is having so much difficulty in persuading people to move from Windows XP - it does the job for most people)

 

The big difference between a 'free' program and high-end stuff, like AutoCad, lies in the robustness and reliability of the software.  There are very detailed procedures that have to be used when designing and compiling software that may be used for 'safety critical' applications, which have a huge impact on the cost of development.

 

It would be very unwise to use Inkscape to design internal parts for a nuclear power station, whereas AutoCad is used for such tasks.  If your model coal office is 'out' by 0.1 mm somewhere, it is something that can be quickly fixed with a scalpel, but that might not be so easy inside a nuclear plant

 

Mike

[MikeTrice]

Cannot argue with that Mike.

 

Been a while since I have added to this tutorial so let us cover some of the more interesting features of Inkscape.

 

Let us start with a Rectangle object drawn with rounded corners.

 

Being an object it has a predefined behaviour in that it will always be 4 sided with either square or rounded corners. Changing to Node Edit mode shows the control points available.

 

In order to break this restriction it is necessary to choose Path -> Object to Path. Now we have a Path rather than a rectangle that will allow us to edit the nodes.

 

In this view the same object has been converted via the Path -> Stroke to Path. Now our original rectangle comprises two borders either side of the original path's width.

 

It is not really that impressive until we change some of the Fill and Stroke settings, in this case turn off fill, turn on stroke and set the stroke width.

 

And back in normal selected mode

 

Here are two objects, one rectangle and one circle which overlap.

 

It is possible to combine shapes to create new ones. Here I have selected the two objects then selected Path -> Union

 

The same two objects but this time using Path -> Difference

 

This time using Path -> Intersection.

 

There are many options available so give them a go and see what happens.

 

Let us now try something more useful putting this knowledge to good use. Here I have drawn a rectangle and two lines and set their various stroke widths, finally aligning then to centre the various window bars. I have coloured the bars red so they can be seen

 

It is really not obvious from this screen shot, but I have converted all the selected objects using Path -> Stroke to Path

 

Now the objects have been combined using Path -> Union

 

Finally adjusting the Fill and Stroke properties again to remove the fill and setting the stroke width and colour you end up with this, a window ready to send to the cutter.

 

[JCL]

That's great Mike, I hadn't realised that stroke to path did that.

 

cheers

 

Jason

[MikeTrice]

I only discovered it a few weeks ago but it is really useful where you want parallel lines a set distance apart. Unfortunately they don't work too well with guides and you initially have to align the outer edge rather than the line centre.

[richbrummitt]

I only discovered it a few weeks ago but it is really useful where you want parallel lines a set distance apart. Unfortunately they don't work too well with guides and you initially have to align the outer edge rather than the line centre.

 

You can change this behavior in the properties. File -> Inkscape preferences. Select "Tools". Under "Bounding box to use" change the radio button to "Geometric bounding box" or "Visual bounding box". IIRC the visual bounding box snaps to the outside of the line thickness (what you see) and the geometric bounding box will snap to the centre of the line (the geometry). I have it set to Geometric bounding box but the default is visual. I habitually change the document properties to use mm units too. 

 

If you haven't already start playing about with the right hand tool bar - it makes alignments a lot easier ;-)

 

A trick that I use to create symmetrical layouts (using your door as an example) is to use the centre line (you drew in green) and select it and the objects to mirror. duplicate and mirror them and then move the whole lot using the centre line to snap to. Then delete the guide centre lines.

[MikeTrice]

Thanks. I will have a play.

[JCL]

Hi Mike

 

Now you are the Inkscape guru, I've a quick question for you. Have you found a way to butt objects up against each other? I can use align and distribute so get them evenly spaced, but I can't see a way to get them to butt together. I find that the sap functionality isn't as good as that in Photoshop where you can not only snap to guides, but also to other objects.

 

cheers

 

Jason