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Finescaling a Farish Ivatt 2-6-0


Nig H
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I am not sure I follow this new bearings would be one item to stock whereas special wheels sets in different sizes would be more of a problem. I do understand the quantity/price issue.

Don

 

Don et al,

 

I quite agree - stocking different types of wheel bearings to suit different applications that fit a standard range of wheels is the sensible approach, whatever the quantity/price issue. The other way around - stocking a plethora of wheel types on differing axles to suit every manufacturer - would be just crazy! 

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  • 3 weeks later...
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Having just received my 3F, I can confirm it shares the exact same chassis design as the WD, 5MT, Ivatt and Fairburn, so I think its safe to say Farish have now standardised on this approach for the foreseeable future. A bearing insert is therefore probably the most cost effective way for the Society to offer easier conversion of standard N gauge stock to 2mmFS standards.

 

I'm now giving serious thought to buying a second 3F and appropriate wheels to convert in the same manner as Nigel's Ivatt as an "easy" first steam engine conversion. 

 

Tom. 

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I'm now giving serious thought to buying a second 3F and appropriate wheels to convert in the same manner as Nigel's Ivatt as an "easy" first steam engine conversion. 

 

Tom. 

 

Ooo, that means you'll be building some track to a different gauge . . . :yes:

 

David

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I think its safe to say Farish have now standardised on this approach for the foreseeable future.

 

Tom. 

 

I wish I was as confident as you Tom but I really hope you are right. What we need is a tamed Farish employee who could confirm it for us. Is there anyone who could produce a drawing of the required bearing please? Otherwise I will have to go out and buy one of these model to take it to pieces!

 

Its great to see you starting to dabble though Tom.

 

M :)

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 What we need is a tamed Farish employee who could confirm it for us

 

Some say, he only models the Cleobury Mortimer and Ditton Priors Light Railway.............

 

 

 

 

Question for Nigel - How did you tackle the geared axle on the Ivatt?

 

Tom. 

Edited by TomE
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Hello Guy (and others),

 

I measured the Farish axles at the bearings location as 2.9mm. I soldered the Assoc bearings onto a length of 1.5mm rod, put that in my lathe, then turned the outer flanges down until a GF bearing just slid over all of them. It doesn't take long to do.

 

 

 

Would it not have been easier to drill out the bearing to the 3.1mm of the drive bushes you are using, rather than turning the bush down? I am pretty sure more people will own a pillar drill to do the former than a lathe. This would also perhaps mean that an Association 3mm muff could then run inside the Farish bearing, and so could be a bit longer.

 

I have also been thinking about whether it would be possible to etch up a replacement for the Farish bearing (as it is square) into which normal Associaition frame bushes could fit.

 

Chris

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Some say, he only models the Cleobury Mortimer and Ditton Priors Light Railway.............

 

 

 

 

Question for Nigel - How did you tackle the geared axle on the Ivatt?

 

Tom. 

Hello Tom,

 

I opened out the hole on the GFgear so that it was a firm push fit on a 2.3mm diameter muff, then superglued the gear centrally on the muff.

 

Nig H

 

Would it not have been easier to drill out the bearing to the 3.1mm of the drive bushes you are using, rather than turning the bush down? I am pretty sure more people will own a pillar drill to do the former than a lathe. This would also perhaps mean that an Association 3mm muff could then run inside the Farish bearing, and so could be a bit longer.

 

I have also been thinking about whether it would be possible to etch up a replacement for the Farish bearing (as it is square) into which normal Associaition frame bushes could fit.

 

Chris

Hello Chris,

 

I didn't try this as I don't have a drill or files that could get to that diameter, but I don't see why your idea shouldn't work, in which case there would be no need for the Association or you to get involved in producing replacement bearings etc.  It would be useful if somone could try your suggestion, but I can't as I've used up all my GF bearing on the Ivatt and the WD and I don't fancy undoing all my work.

 

Nig H

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I acquired a Jinty today. It's currently being run in on my circular test track as per Bachmann's instructions. I'll post shots of the chassis design and construction along with all the relevant measurements as I strip it down, so anybody interested will have a good idea as to what may be possible. Already there are aspects which raise concerns for me.

 

Izzy

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I've finally finished the conversion, so here are a couple of pics. The loco isn't the heaviest and I reckon it can comfortably handle about 100g, which is about 5 or 6 GF suburban Mk1s -enough for a prototypical train for this loco.

 

post-12813-0-30694500-1395143293_thumb.jpg

 

post-12813-0-66360100-1395143306_thumb.jpg

 

Nig H

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Absolutely stunning! :D

 

 

It looks great doesn't it

 

 

That's wonderful. 

 

I agree - the latest Farish loco bodies are pretty good and worth finescaling.

 

Nig H

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I suppose a logical step would be another etch to help convert it to the BR Std.2 version?

 

Just a thought....

 

Already in hand I believe - one of my 2mm colleagues has been talking to Michael Edge about shrinking his 4mm scale etch.

 

Andy

Edited by 2mm Andy
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I've just made a start on one of these conversions.If anyone else is planning on starting one of these then it's worth noting that the bearings and muffs designed for the Jinty conversion can all be used on the 2MT. This saves quite a bit of time and avoids the need for any turning down of association bearings.

 

Simon

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My Ivatt 2MT conversion is finally nearing completion.  After much faffing around and several squashed mazak Farish crossheads, I used modified 2mm Scale Association Black 5 crossheads instead and beefed up the Farish slidebars.  Lesson learnt: don't jump straight back into doing Walschaerts' gear when you've not done any modelling for a while!  Nigel's kit works very well and it was only me not being careful enough with the Farish parts that caused any issue.  I now have an Ivatt with gear a chassis that sets off the excellent Farish body nicely.

 

post-3982-0-09452900-1506783792_thumb.jpgpost-3982-0-89383300-1506783793_thumb.jpg

 

The loco still needs a DG coupling at the rear, a screw coupling at the front, cab doors and I should add frame-mounted guardirons (my Ivatt being an early built one early in its life) having cut off the Gonzo noses on the pony truck which are appropriate for later built/modified examples.

 

As ever Nigel's help and encouragement was much appreciated.

 

Simon

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