RMweb Premium Izzy Posted July 20, 2014 RMweb Premium Share Posted July 20, 2014 Now why didn't I think of that .... Trouble is it sounds obvious but still doesn't quite answer the question Quite a bit of force is required to get this gauge to drop down on both rails (it then doesn't exactly roll - bumping over the sleepers). As you can see it rests on one rail - by a smidgeon (guessed at 0.5mm) and when pressed down the rails are definitely pushed apart. But the calipers show 32.02 between the inside faces of the outer gauge so that sort of confirms O at GOG current standards? When I finally open the kit I'll see what the "enclosed gauges" are, then possibly contemplate a O-MF set. Though building the kit with a wider gauge at the adjoining track and O-MF through the crossing sounds like adding one more thing to go wrong, two different gauges - neither of which will roll over the entire length - asking for trouble. The reason the roller gauge bumps over the chairs is of course simply because it's too deep. With chaired track you need one that is just as deep as the rail head. More depth is useful for, say, soldered construction where it can assist in keeping the rail vertical. I don't know if this applies to Peco track, but chaired track along with some flatbottom is canted inwards at 1-20. I believe C&L holds it at the correct angle. This is another reason why you need gauges that are only head depth, otherwise they will try and pull the rail vertical as you press them down. This may be what is happening with the gauge on the Peco track, and appears that it is spreading the rails apart, which would be the end result. Having used a non-standard b-t-b of 29.8mm in O in the past to gain finer flangeways, today, to me at least, the 31.5mm/O-MF standard seems the perfect answer, and esspecially if you are just starting out with new trackwork. Mixing standards dosen't seem a sensible idea, more a recipe for disaster. Be careful though. Once you start making your own track you won't want to go back to using ready made stuff easily. Izzy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
d600 Posted July 17, 2015 Share Posted July 17, 2015 Hi I only wanted to build one marcway 7mm point kit now I'm truly lost Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BG John Posted July 17, 2015 Share Posted July 17, 2015 Hi I only wanted to build one marcway 7mm point kit now I'm truly lost As a newcomer to 7mm, I think it's pretty clear. If you're using O gauge finescale wheels, build the track to O-MF. Everything that runs on Peco track will run on it, but much better. If you have existing 32mm track, or buy some ready made, you can mix them by gently widening the gauge at the ends of your handmade track. Having said that, I'm currently bodging up some track to 32mm, because that's all I currently have the gauges for, but I'll be using O-MF for serious track building later. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jintyman Posted July 17, 2015 Share Posted July 17, 2015 So is 0-MF. And 0-MF is very easy to build -- you just get a set of Debs excellent gauges and use them. Terry, you are muddying the water and causing confusion for UK modellers. I don't know much about NSW track, but I am quite sure that they don't use sharp-nose vees. The tip of the vee would be destroyed by the first wheel which ran over it. Likewise I know little about the wheels used by AMRA members. But I see no reason why they wouldn't work with 0-MF, and certainly all relevant* UK wheels do, without any fuss at all. *Not S7 wheels or the old GOG-Coarse wheels of course. Martin. I hope this may be of use, Prior to moving to O gauge, I had built some turnouts to OO-SF standards, and enjoyed the building immensely. I've now moved up to 7mm and I decided to use the O-MF standard throughout with my track work. I purchased a couple of gauges and shims off Debs and then used the Intentio sleepers and C&L chairs and BH rail. I built a single turnout firstly (unfortunately on 10" sleepering, but I'll hide it in a siding!!!) which went together quite easy. I then decided to build the main complex for my layout whilst I was on a roll!!!! It's a double junction which includes a 3-way and single slip. Bear in mind, this is only my second point construction in O-MF, I found it very straightforward to do, providing you followed some common sense rules, like working from the crossing vee, etc. I would recommend to anyone to give it a go, I was daunted at first, but I feel confident now. And more to the point, I can honestly say that MW is absolutely right, get some gauges off Debs and have a go, it's easy!!! Jinty 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tender Posted June 8, 2018 Share Posted June 8, 2018 Does anyone know where i can get some O-MF Track Gauges from or the dimensional drawings to make a set. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold ROSSPOP Posted June 8, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted June 8, 2018 Does anyone know where i can get some O-MF Track Gauges from or the dimensional drawings to make a set. Yep........ Borg Rail.com...................... http://www.borg-rail.com/gauges.html Cheers johnny Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold martin_wynne Posted June 8, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted June 8, 2018 Does anyone know where i can get some O-MF Track Gauges from or the dimensional drawings to make a set. Roxey Mouldings do an inexpensive etched fold-up gauge for 0-MF. Not on their web site, you need to email or phone: http://www.roxeymouldings.co.uk/ More info: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/130689-o-mf-gauges-and-minimum-radius/&do=findComment&comment=3024828 Martin. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now