greenglade Posted December 19, 2016 Share Posted December 19, 2016 Hi guys Regarding the parts needed if you have cut away the skirts, I think you may find what you need from Laurie Griffin...section 10 of his catalogue cheers Pete Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted December 20, 2016 Share Posted December 20, 2016 Looks like it, http://www.lgminiatures.co.uk/ Click to download castings catalogue, then page 13, items 10-3 and 10-4. Meanwhile, I'll have a look at a Piercy one, see what else is needed. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue Peter Posted December 20, 2016 Share Posted December 20, 2016 Thanks for that JeffP,----my next question-----How can the return crank be set @ 15 degrees if there is no thread on the end of the crankpin it will flop about and fall off, or am I overlooking something??? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted December 21, 2016 Share Posted December 21, 2016 You either glue it, or solder it. Some different methods have been used, including using two crankpin bushed, and both are threaded 10BA, the crankpin screw being 10BA too instead of 12BA. You then attach the return crank to the outer inverted crankpin bush, screw into place, remove and file until it points as you want it to, then fit permanently. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted December 21, 2016 Share Posted December 21, 2016 (edited) OK, been looking at a DJH/Piercy model on which ours is based.....a quick perusal shows a good few shortcuts for ours, including the substitution of white metal castings for lost wax, but onto the worst news: It would appear we are going to be missing quite a few parts with which to complete the valvegear, to whit: front and rear valve guides, (shown with a blue arrow on the drawing), rear valve rods and connectors, (shown as L20 on the photo of the castings), and all the etchings for the conjugated valvegear, shown in the last photo. (Apologies for the poor photos, the sheets are encased in a plastic binder, to keep them flat and clean.) To my mind, the most difficult will be the rear valve rod. I'm pretty sure that Laurie Griffin does the valve guides at about £10 per pair in nickel silver, parts 10-3 and 10-4. However, the rear valve rod isn't, or doesn't SEEM to be, available anywhere and wouldn't be an easy scratch build, nor would the radius rod, or the conjugated valvegear. Maybe we could get Pete Harvey to do the radius rod and conjugated valvegear, but the rear valve rod? I've also noticed that the actual cylinder etchings are cut away on the Piercy kit for the fully valanced version, and ours are provided ready cut, so will need to be replaced in their entirety or some bits of scrap brass soldered on. I feel a bit let down now, to be honest. The corners that have been cut needn't have been. Here are pics of the radius rod build and the template for bending/fixing: As can be seen, if this isn't provided, I'm unsure as to where to get one? Premier? but theirs are milled, so will they be the right shape in section and will they have the hollow bit? Pete Harvey again? But would Pete be willing to do the required parts for so few customers? And at what cost? Anyone know him well enough to enquire? Further edited to say: I hope I'm not breaking any copyright rules with these, if I am, I'll take it down and try and photograph the parts instead. thanks mods. Edited December 21, 2016 by JeffP Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike47j Posted December 21, 2016 Share Posted December 21, 2016 The return crank looks as if it will be glued on after painting. Since I already have the Premier coupling rods, and filled the hole in the connecting rod, I think I'll use the Derek Mundy 10BA threaded crankpins, and solder a 10BA screw into the return crank. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
greenglade Posted December 21, 2016 Share Posted December 21, 2016 do the instructions give details about the return cranks correct position?.....there's only one Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike47j Posted December 21, 2016 Share Posted December 21, 2016 Issue 117 says drill 2mm holes, the end of my crankpins are about 1.8mm so they are going too be a loose fit. Issue 119 step 8 says fit at the correct angle to check the connecting rod does not foul the expansion link, without saying what the correct angle is. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold ROSSPOP Posted December 22, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted December 22, 2016 So.............. This I found on ebay some time back.....no idea what kit....but just to familiarise me to what I`m missing........ Laurie Griffin then for some of the parts............................. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue Peter Posted December 24, 2016 Share Posted December 24, 2016 Hatchette have really let themselves down on this one. No valve gear-unsecured crank-pin if you have to glue this at the proper degrees, how are you supposed to strip it down for chassis painting? At the price of this project it's a "very big let down" -Just because of the full skirt-(out of sight-out of mind.)-Grrrrrrrrr!!----Rob. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushrat Posted December 24, 2016 Share Posted December 24, 2016 And of course, the problems surface when we are completely committed to the build. They never fail, do they! Sort of like some of the problems with Flying Scotsman, when they supplied valve motion parts cast in white metal, but at least after lots of those building made a fuss they were replaced with better quality parts later in the build. They have already done this with the wheels, so maybe it's time for you fellers that are up to this stage to start making some noise about it. Here in Australia we haven't hit #90 yet, so we have no idea what is going to be missing. Just a wee thought though, since Scotsman and Mallard are sort of similar, could Scotsman parts be used instead? Are these the parts shown in the earlier post by you Peter? If not can you maybe scan and post the instructions that cover it? I for one would be interested in having a look to see if we cant find some sort of work around for it. I am building mine with side skirts on, so it probably wont affect me, but it's not the point, as you rightly point out, for the price of the build it is not something that we should have to accept, also of course, for those unfortunate souls here in Aussie, nobody carries these parts - it's send off to the UK for them and it's gonna cost us an arm and a leg, and a long wait! I swore after Scotsman that I would never do another partwork of ANYTHING, so I suppose that makes me a dill for getting caught twice! The only way I would ever do another is if the first issue had some sort of breakdown of 1: Materials being used 2: construction sequence and 3: a basic exploded diagram showing what parts were to be supplied in what issues. Wouldn't that be a great aid in doing the project? It will never happen of course, that would be too much to expect. While it is lots easier on the pocket to buy like this, one has to wonder if one is not better off buying a complete kit on the credit card, and copping the interest charges, at least you know what you are getting up front and if its not up to scratch you can return it for a refund. I reckon the cost would be almost the same and you get a top quality kit of your choosing as well! Anyhow, all that said, a very Merry Christmas to all, may Santa and his small reindeer bring many train related gifts to your home tonight! Bushrat Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue Peter Posted December 24, 2016 Share Posted December 24, 2016 Merry Christmas to you all---Rob Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted December 27, 2016 Share Posted December 27, 2016 I've sent Pete Harvey, who is a master at etchings, a message asking about getting the radius rod etched in two halves so as to follow the real thing's shape, and also getting the conjugated gear etched. We'll have to see if it's doable and within a cost that appeals to other modellers. Meanwhile, no response from either Finney 7 or Ragstone. I may try snail mail in the new year, with reply-paid envelopes. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lemburg Posted December 28, 2016 Share Posted December 28, 2016 A pity. Silly decision by Hatchette to `spoil the bake for a ha`penth of flour` right at the last lap. particularly when they have diligently supplied all the axle box detailing between the frames. I don`t suppose `mass complaints` will make any difference as they would probably produce the parts over a further ` 12 issues` Ragstone models appear to produce the missing part, but then there is a ` detailed lump` required the other side of the cylinder and I can`t track that piece down. Oh well, mine will be a `full skirted bint` so has saved a lot of filing and no more expence on the project. Merry Christmas to all ` Hatcheteers` John Mine will be the same as your last sentence - 'fully skirted' and i agree as I have spent enough time on this project! Cold comfort -I know - but the costs associated with the necessary re-tooling to get the wheels properly quartered and the likely drop in take up/subscriptions for the project after issues 25-30 say when all you were getting were a few screws and white metal gauges for your eight quid will have -no doubt- left them feeling bereft of any anticipated return on their investment and as they have had 18 months since then to re-assess the situation the 'sinking of the ship for haipeth' o' tar' as I would put it doesn't surprise me at all. Good luck to all those trying to source valve gear items. Happy new year to all Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
greenglade Posted December 29, 2016 Share Posted December 29, 2016 re valve gear items, works drawings are available for every part and free if you visit NRM and take a digital camera with you, you do need to contact them first though, IIRC the drawing for the 2:1 lever is available from their free samples in the 'Doncaster works' files online, not sure if all dimensions can be seen but if so just scale them down Pete Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seven Posted December 29, 2016 Share Posted December 29, 2016 (edited) Hi all, I am new to this site, having built 4mm locos and rolling stock in the past, I fancied trying 7mm. I subscribed to the Mallard partwork as a cheap weekly way into 7mm with the option to buy replacement issues if I messed up! Over two years since I received the first copy I have just started the build, I have not got that far but I prefer to build in a different sequence than the issues came out, the loco body is now taking shape and I am impressed with the main etches and body castings, the white metal backhead detail, lamp irons, smokebox valve and elbow are not great, so hopefully I can replace with brass. With regards to the valve gear/cylinder detail I am hoping that we do get some more I can't see what is left to be spread over the next 11 issues, coal and nameplates will probably be 2 issues but what are others expecting in the remaining 9? For those who have built the chassis have you used the supplied wheel bearings or replaced with sprung or compensated system? Opening a can of worms, can I asked what is the best option for sprung horn blocks? Regards Andy Edited December 29, 2016 by Seven Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold ROSSPOP Posted December 29, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted December 29, 2016 (edited) Hi Re Sprung hornblocks. I use these from HobbyHolidays almost exclusively on all my 7mm locos and can recommend them ( but not with split axle pickups) They have only about 0.5mm height adjustment using the screw, so you need to consider where the axle centre line is designed to be on the sideframes ( ride height) and locate the cutouts accordingly particularly with reference to outside valve gear. Probably not so much a problem on an A4 compared to a proper GWR loco Thet are pricey £20 per axle but are easy to assemble and have no slop in the hornguides. ( on my DA Castle kit) John Edited December 29, 2016 by ROSSPOP 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lemburg Posted January 2, 2017 Share Posted January 2, 2017 Hi All -great news for part subscribers like me (for future or back issues)-noticed today that Hachette have halved their Mallard partwork issue prices from 1 -119(latest shown on their website). Unsure as to what this will mean to current full subscribers but i am sure they will be asking the question/s!! I fancy that any redress in this respect will not be forthcoming - interesting to say the least. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted January 3, 2017 Share Posted January 3, 2017 Hi All -great news for part subscribers like me (for future or back issues)-noticed today that Hachette have halved their Mallard partwork issue prices from 1 -119(latest shown on their website)..... Now that is interesting. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold 30801 Posted January 3, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 3, 2017 Now that is interesting. Yes I've ordered a new part 88 which has the tender body, rather than straighten my bent one. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
greenglade Posted January 3, 2017 Share Posted January 3, 2017 Yes I've ordered a new part 88 which has the tender body, rather than straighten my bent one. me too.....just in case the one that I have gets damaged before I use it....I've been worried about this possibility for some time... Pete Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted January 3, 2017 Share Posted January 3, 2017 Well, it knocks down the overall cost of a DIY A4 by about £300, assuming that all of the relevant issues at reduced price are actually in stock. Could be the clincher for anyone thinking about having a go at something ambitious in 7mm scale, as well as making it possible to spend money on better components from Ragstone, Premier, etc. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold ROSSPOP Posted January 3, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 3, 2017 I`ve remained open minded about this enterprise. Hatchette specialise in kits for the absolute novice and so I`m not surprised they hav`nt included the `conjugated valve gear` which wont be seen on a valenced version. Lets be honest, a novice would be hard pressed to get it working in any case. There are plenty of O gauge models around with non moving inside valve gear and I for one will be content to finish with skirts removed ( because I like the look of A4`s this way) but will obtain as many missing castings from LG as he produces. ( I had a bonus sell up on ebay over Christmas) I`m sure in the future I will get a lot of my investment back when I sell on and by then it will have all been forgotten. A decent coat of paint will hide a multitude of sins......... However, it has put me off completely in signing up for any more of their locomotive projects. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted January 3, 2017 Share Posted January 3, 2017 I have to say my experiences with Hachette when I built my Scotsman loco were not the best and I decided after I had finished it that if I was going to build another O Gauge loco that I would just buy a complete kit with wheels, motor and gearbox already included. Best of luck finding one...unless you mean buy the kit, then the wheels motor and gearbox, plus pickups and usually couplings extra? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted January 3, 2017 Share Posted January 3, 2017 Update: I know it's Christmas etc, but so far, no response from Ragstone or Pete Harvey at all. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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