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Mallard Partwork


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Just looking at the site it looks quite good, but no mention of how many parts it will be... at 7.99 an issue, these part works often go on for over 100 issues you're looking at the best part of a grand if you get the binders.... value for money or no? Also, constructing the brass etches using superglue? Is that just so that the a & e departments countrywide don't have an influx of people with soldering burns or is it the way forward?

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My wife has just bought me a part work with a oo guage Mallard - Great British Locomotive Collection. I thought I would search RMWeb for mallard partwork and came across this thread - which is obviously a different one!

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...., constructing the brass etches using superglue? Is that just so that the a & e departments countrywide don't have an influx of people with soldering burns or is it the way forward?

You'll still get people going to the dwindling number of A&E departments, to be freed from having glued themselves....

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  • 2 weeks later...

there was an announcement on facebook BR_BLUE_1986 that due to unprecedented demand the trail was canccled and it will be a full production run like Scotsman was. ill be doing it.

 

here we go again.....................................

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I built the A3 version they did some years ago, and found it quite a good kit for an etched metal type kit, although it was not the easy Airfix type kit some people seemed to expect. Of course at the end it cost as much as the DJH kit upon which it was based, but I was able to pay for it monthly, and it was pleasing to have something interesting drop through the letter box from time to time, even though the magazines were rubbish. The other thing I found was that as I got the 4 parts every 4 weeks and had 4 weeks to fit them there was no tempation to rush and spoil it. On the other hand planning ahead was difficult.

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The is what my partwork Flying Scotsman turned out like.

Generally I'm quite happy with it. Some the white metal bits should have really been brass but apart from that the quality was good.

 

The images on the Mallard's web page show a metal boiler and brass lamp irons. If the full run is the same then they've improved things a bit.

DSCF1230.JPG

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Just looking at the site it looks quite good, but no mention of how many parts it will be... at 7.99 an issue, these part works often go on for over 100 issues you're looking at the best part of a grand if you get the binders.... value for money or no? Also, constructing the brass etches using superglue? Is that just so that the a & e departments countrywide don't have an influx of people with soldering burns or is it the way forward?

 

No, it's because the moment you mention soldering, most modellers throw their hands in the air and claim it's all far too difficult. Use glue and I suspect you increase the number of potential builders by a factor of 10. There's some big lumps of metal that will need good soldering equipment and reasonable skills too.

 

The parts are laquered to assist glue construction and painting without the need to prime (Dart Castings to the same thing for the same reason) so if you want to solder, then this needs to be cleaned off. I wrongly assumed this would be quicker than glue for a review on my blog. I was wrong, glue would have been far faster.

 

12700499945_a1fd5da412_n.jpg

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Probably cheaper to build a Finney A4....

 

Finney A4 inc. tender + Slaters wheels = £728.53

 

Partwork = £864.75

 

So you pay £136.22 for the instructions, design aimed at beginners and being able to spread the cost. Actually, as the partwork includes transfers and the kit doesn't, the difference isn't quite as great.

 

Both models require motors/gears etc.

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I wonder if the boiler (or in this case "bodywork"?) will be metal. In the initial publicity for the Flying Scotsman the impression was given that the boiler was to be metal, but in the event it as plastic. A good thing in my view, and would that other O gauge kit makers could afford plastic moulded boilers, but not what some were expecting. I suspect the reason was that the advance publicity model as built from the DJH kit, and the parts for the Flying Scotsman were not made until there was enough demand to justify it.

The postings on the forums about building the Flying Scotsman were almost as entertaining as building the kit itself and I look forward to a repeat with Mallard. 

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Finney A4 inc. tender + Slaters wheels = £728.53

 

Partwork = £864.75

 

So you pay £136.22 for the instructions, design aimed at beginners and being able to spread the cost. Actually, as the partwork includes transfers and the kit doesn't, the difference isn't quite as great.

 

Both models require motors/gears etc.

From what I have read, The Flying Scotsman kit did not come with Slaters wheels. Quite a few people seem to have commented that the quality was not as good.

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The kit seems to use a tw-part boiler/firebox assembly, so isn't based on the Piercy model which uses a one-piece casting.

 

Still cheaper to buy the Piercy model......and probably better too.

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Still cheaper to buy the Piercy model......and probably better too.

Certainly both of those things.

 

Partworks are a different thing. You can jump into a Pacific as your first kit and if it doesn't work out you can bail without having spent too much.

Plus you get to build it at the same time as a bunch of other people and compare notes.

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The wheels were fine. Identical to Slaters ones. The axles all had undersized ends but genuine Slaters ones were a cheap and easy solution.

 

and presumably if you were interested in following this part work, it would be quite a good time to write to Hachette and point out the problem with the axles that they supplied last time, and ask them to improve the manufacture this time around - it probably would cost them anything to put that right.

 

Jon

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I have subscribed to this partwork (to add to all the others). I've never worked in O gauge before and never built an etched kit so its probably not the best way to start lol. However the appeal for me is that it comes in affordable bites that wont cause a domestic with the wife and the instructions, at least in part 1, seem to be aimed far more at the novice than most model railway kits. I'm hoping that with care and patience even a beginner such as myself can build it. Whether it wil inspire more O gauge models or not remains to be seen (lack of space!) however it will look very impressive when built sitting on the top of the bookcase in the lounge. What sort of CA would people recommend for this sort of kit? I use the cheap thin stuff for adding detailing parts to plastic models in OO but I don't think it will cut the mustard on this kit.

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there was an announcement on facebook BR_BLUE_1986 that due to unprecedented demand the trail was canccled and it will be a full production run like Scotsman was. ill be doing it.

 

here we go again.....................................

 

Where was this quoted?

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I have subscribed to this partwork (to add to all the others). I've never worked in O gauge before and never built an etched kit so its probably not the best way to start lol. However the appeal for me is that it comes in affordable bites that wont cause a domestic with the wife and the instructions, at least in part 1, seem to be aimed far more at the novice than most model railway kits. I'm hoping that with care and patience even a beginner such as myself can build it. Whether it wil inspire more O gauge models or not remains to be seen (lack of space!) however it will look very impressive when built sitting on the top of the bookcase in the lounge. What sort of CA would people recommend for this sort of kit? I use the cheap thin stuff for adding detailing parts to plastic models in OO but I don't think it will cut the mustard on this kit.

 

I'd suggest getting the full selection of Zap-a-Gap glues - thin, normal and thick. I've found the normal (green label) version to be superb and have whitemetal loco kits assembled with it that are still as good as when they were built. Eileen's Emproium stock them but you can also find the range in many model shops. Assuming Mallard is designed for glue assembly, there's no reason to think they won't be just as good here.

 

Good luck - let us know how you get on.

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I don't think all of the Flying Scotsman's axles where undersize. Mine were fine, although wome people reported trouble. I suspect it was the usual Chinese lack of quality control. One trouble I did have was the screws used to fix the wheels seemed soft, and the Allan Key soon lost its grip in the hole, so should I need to I will have a job getting the wheels off.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I'm still only half way through my Flying Scotsman but will finish it at some point. Anyway, all signed up. In my opinion a good way of spreading the cost. Evening Star next please :-)

Edited by DLPG
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