greenglade Posted August 28, 2014 Share Posted August 28, 2014 I found some copies in WHS Harrow.. I had to ask as I couldn't see them on the selves...they were hidden behind other collection type magazines, in my case 'bugs life' or something like that. They were on an end gondola at the other end of the shop away from the normal place, no way would anyone think of looking for them there....lol Pete Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilEakins Posted August 28, 2014 Share Posted August 28, 2014 vs £819.60 direct from DJH in one lump sum... so you are paying £203.12 for the befefit of buying in parts (or £1.58 an issue) and the magizine. Doesn't seem like a bad deal to me? The price includes the wheels as well - I haven't costed the full wheel set bought separately but I reckon it's a good slice of the £200! Phil Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilEakins Posted August 28, 2014 Share Posted August 28, 2014 ...and the possibility (given the two previous attempts) that the model may never reach completion. I seem to recall that the 'Flying Scotsman' kit from Hatchette brought forth a great deal of similar negativity. I also seem to recall that the Gauge 0 Guild has a table full of completed Hatchette kit built locos at an exhibition! There was also a very active thread on this very forum as people negotiated their way through the complexities of successfully building the kit (which I believe was monitored by Hatchette as 'defective' or wrong parts discovered were corrected by later re-issues). Horse, by all means have a view, but base it in evidence, if you get my drift. The last kit was brought home successfully, what makes you think this one won't be? Phil Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Port Line Posted August 28, 2014 Share Posted August 28, 2014 I believe this is the link to the original rmweb discussion list on building the Flying Scotsman http://www.rmweb.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=12095 (there are some others). I guess the build sequence is likely to be similar for the A4? If so, posts on the FS pages may still prove useful. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold 30801 Posted August 28, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 28, 2014 I admit defeat with the cellulose thinners. It etched into the brass in the parts where I'd scraped back the lacquer without actually doing much to the lacquer itself. It was possible to scrape off the lacquer while in the thinners but it quickly hardened up again after lifting the brass out. Rubbing the stuff away with a fibreglass brush worked but would drive me insane to do for a whole kit. So. Still on the lookout for something that would bring off the lacquer after a gentle soak. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
greenglade Posted August 28, 2014 Share Posted August 28, 2014 varnish / paint remover worked for me...took a couple of hours although may have been less but it's difficult to see....only after I had done a test with some solder was i happy that the varnish had gone. I used some steel wool to check if the varnish had gone... not sure if this helped or if the job had already been done by the varnish remover. i have another cab etch sitting in a solution of caustic soda... looked untouched when I checked after a few hours so have left it in overnight... however it's possible that the varnish has already dissolved but unlike the varnish remover test that had some colour change the caustic soda test looks as it did when first put in. I'll take it out tomorrow and check to see if the varnish has dissolved or not...will report back here. Pete Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium melmerby Posted August 28, 2014 RMweb Premium Share Posted August 28, 2014 Spotted this in the Birmigham Union St. WHSmith. Fairly prominent by a cash desk. They seemed to have plenty (20+?) Unlike the GBL series which seems to have vanished completely. Display wise it is easier for the retailer as it is a flat package. I wonder just how much information can be found about Mallard to fill 100+ issues? Keith Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium melmerby Posted August 28, 2014 RMweb Premium Share Posted August 28, 2014 I admit defeat with the cellulose thinners. It etched into the brass Eh? It isn't corrosive to non ferrous metal AFAIK Never had a problem cleaning brass or copper with cellulose thinners. Keith Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold 30801 Posted August 28, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 28, 2014 Eh? It isn't corrosive to non ferrous metal AFAIK Never had a problem cleaning brass or copper with cellulose thinners. There's definitely some pitting Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
modelpara Posted August 29, 2014 Share Posted August 29, 2014 There's definitely some pitting pit.jpg Is that not from when it was scraped? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold 30801 Posted August 29, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 29, 2014 Is that not from when it was scraped?Nope. That was where I scraped away the slightly softened varnish with a fingernail and then left it to soak some more. The exposed areas of brass went green and furry with pitting underneath. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators Phil Parker Posted August 29, 2014 Administrators Share Posted August 29, 2014 I seem to recall that the 'Flying Scotsman' kit from Hatchette brought forth a great deal of similar negativity. I also seem to recall that the Gauge 0 Guild has a table full of completed Hatchette kit built locos at an exhibition! There was also a very active thread on this very forum as people negotiated their way through the complexities of successfully building the kit (which I believe was monitored by Hatchette as 'defective' or wrong parts discovered were corrected by later re-issues). Horse, by all means have a view, but base it in evidence, if you get my drift. The last kit was brought home successfully, what makes you think this one won't be? Phil "It will be cancelled before the series finishes" is a constant refrain on-line EVERY time a partwork is released. The problem is that most only appear in Smifs until issue 7 - by this point you are either subscribed or not interested. After this they are on order or subscription so disapear from general sale. I read the same comments about both the Bismark and Hood model boats but my Dad has both complete sets now. Incidentally, the quality of the etched brass on these is superb, better than much model railway stuff. As for the price, don't forget that you are getting detailed stei-by-step instructions with the model. No mainstream manufacturer can provide these with a kit, it would send the price through the roof. Also, the model is designed for the beginner and that means a lot more work. Look at the DJH beginners kits, they are excellent and anyone could assemble them BUT the extra development costs mean a higher final price. I'll be honest, if the A4 is as good as some of the Flying Scotsman models seen on RMWeb then it will be an impressive model. I'm no beginner but would have been very pleased with myself if I'd produced something as good as these. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
irishmail Posted August 29, 2014 Share Posted August 29, 2014 Part 1 was advertised on RTE TV yesterday evening for €1.00/ £0.50p . Got part 1 today for €0.72 in Claremorris, looks good but not sure if I will get the whole series or not. ( mainly going to be too big for my 0 gauge project).. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold 30801 Posted August 29, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 29, 2014 Went and got some Craftman's Nitromors. That had better shift the lacquer. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bilbo Posted August 29, 2014 Share Posted August 29, 2014 Bought the first issue today in a local newsagent. The full cost for the series is about £1027 which as some have commented is not too bad spread over the 130 weeks.However I assume this doesn't include the cost of motor etc if you want to motorise it. The impression I got from the blurb in the magazine is that the motor will be an extra item, no indication of how much that will be as it they just refer to some information that will be in issue 5. Does the price quoted for the DJH kit include motorising ? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold 30801 Posted August 29, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 29, 2014 You'll need to order the motor separately. The motor for Flying Scotsman came with the smallest Gaugemaster controller and about three feet of track. The motor & gearbox were perfectly good quality but too small if you wanted the loco to actually pull anything. For a working loco it's best just go go and buy the motor & gearbox yourself. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
greenglade Posted August 29, 2014 Share Posted August 29, 2014 Does the price quoted for the DJH kit include motorising ? if following normal kit practice the DJH kit will require wheels, motor and gearbox at an extra cost, plus things like nameplates and decals which will come in the partworks package. 30801 I used the B&Q own brand varnish/paint remover successfully...cab it now soldered together... Pete Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
modelpara Posted August 29, 2014 Share Posted August 29, 2014 if following normal kit practice the DJH kit will require wheels, motor and gearbox at an extra cost, plus things like nameplates and decals which will come in the partworks package. 30801 I used the B&Q own brand varnish/paint remover successfully...cab it now soldered together... Pete Wheels are included, motor and gearbox isnt (its mentioned that details about acquiring motor and gearbox will appear in issue 5 for separate purchase) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Nth Degree Posted August 29, 2014 Share Posted August 29, 2014 I've no experience of this or the Scotsman, but how are the con rods, etc supplied? I'm pretty sure on the DJH kit they are solder-laminated together, but I can't see this happening very successfully with glue. If they are supplied as milled components then that is both a time saver and a valuable added bonus. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
darrel Posted August 29, 2014 Share Posted August 29, 2014 I bought issue one today even though I have no intention of building the loco I was curious to see what the magazine was like. Most of it was rubbish, however I did like the step by step photos for building the model. I wish every kit came with instructions like that. I have one half built kit where the instructions confused me so much I gave up. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold 30801 Posted August 29, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 29, 2014 I've no experience of this or the Scotsman, but how are the con rods, etc supplied? I'm pretty sure on the DJH kit they are solder-laminated together, but I can't see this happening very successfully with glue. If they are supplied as milled components then that is both a time saver and a valuable added bonus.Laminated etched stainless steel for Flying Scotsman. Some people had trouble getting solder to stick, but it worked OK for me with IIRC flux from Gaugemaster. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve fay Posted August 29, 2014 Share Posted August 29, 2014 My dad just phoned me to say he just bought a few copies and would I like one? Aye why not!! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium melmerby Posted August 29, 2014 RMweb Premium Share Posted August 29, 2014 Nope. That was where I scraped away the slightly softened varnish with a fingernail and then left it to soak some more. The exposed areas of brass went green and furry with pitting underneath. Are you sure you are using cellulose thinners and not some other brew? I have just had a test piece of brass fret soaking for 6 hours in some spraying grade cellulose thinners and there is not the slightest hint of any damage/etching of the brass! Keith Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BR_Blue_1986 Posted August 30, 2014 Share Posted August 30, 2014 I used Nitromors to soak then rubbed off with wire wool. Worked great, the stripper softened more than actually stripped I think, but worked well with no damage to the etch and no horrible scrape marks. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flyingscotsmanfan Posted August 30, 2014 Share Posted August 30, 2014 I caved in and treated myself this morning. I'm actually seriously considering subscribing too as I'm just stepping into doing some O gauge at the club and i think this will be handy way to A) learn how to put the things together and B) spread the cost as I cannot afford to pay for the cost of the kit up front. hopefully I will learn some new skills with this that will help me in my main OO gauge modelling. It's just a shame I missed out on the Flying Scotsman one Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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