SOS Junction. If anything happens would someone wake me up please..

[Mallard60022]

That's a yellow Class 58 that is. (Looks good though....)

Have you yet to finish the Decals on that Blue Freight Car? It needs an 'END' added dear heart.

 

[Captain Kernow]

12 hours ago, Mallard60022 said:

Nagging will possibly happen 

Nag nag.

 

[Captain Kernow]

7 hours ago, raymw said:

nought wrong with Lenovos - old or young...

I had a pair of them once.

 

[Mallard60022]

20 minutes ago, Captain Kernow said:

Nag nag.

 

Oh all right then...…………..I like torture.

P

[Oldddudders]

28 minutes ago, Captain Kernow said:

Nag nag.

 

Get them pulling a cart!

[Mallard60022]

43 minutes ago, Oldddudders said:

Get them pulling a cart!

 

43 minutes ago, Oldddudders said:

Get them pulling a cart!

Bog Cart?

[Mallard60022]

I am easily persuaded (so I was told when I were a young Duck) and so, with a quick blast of Mr Wright's DVD on Loco Kit Chassis Building, I have proceeded with the task.

P

[Siberian Snooper]

11 minutes ago, Mallard60022 said:

I am easily persuaded (so I was told when I were a young Duck) and so, with a quick blast of Mr Wright's DVD on Loco Kit Chassis Building, I have proceeded with the task.

P

 

A lot to be said for modelling the GW, not much to worry about, with regards waggly bits of valve gear. The exceptions being the SRMs and late build pannier or two.

 

I hope that all the waggly bits all waggle in unison.

 

 

[Mallard60022]

Bit of a faff to get the Comet Gearbox to 'mesh' correctly. I had it set up and with the rods fitted but when I was running it in on the Rolling Road, it was obviously not right. I took the Gearbox out and adjusted the motor screw fitting holes so that the worm was a fraction nearer the gear cog and lo, it was OK.

However that took almost all afternoon FFS! This time I shall run the Motor/Gearbox and centre Drivers in without the rods engaged to ensure the meshing is OK before I lash up the Coupling and Connecting Rods. Tomorrow I might well set up the Pickups and go for a working chassis as TW calls it. His DVD advice and technique is as sound now as it was when he first made that DVD.

Very good for Mindfulness doing this stuff if anyone needs 'calm and quiet' activity.

P

[Captain Kernow]

6 minutes ago, Mallard60022 said:

This time I shall run the Motor/Gearbox and centre Drivers in without the rods engaged to ensure the meshing is OK before I lash up the Coupling and Connecting Rods

This is indeed the path to true Enlightenment and Internal Wisdom, O Wise Duckleberry.

 

Indeed, I might even counsel the running in of the motor all by itself, followed by the motor and gearbox and then the motor and driven axle, as the ultimate means by which full Aesthetic Conceptualisation is to be achieved.

 

[Mallard60022]

CK I achieved most of that but not necessarily in that order as Fried Rodent person would say.

P

[TheSignalEngineer]

On 07/05/2020 at 16:11, raymw said:

That T-shirt statement would be seen as a challenge in many parts of the UK.

Just been on a bike ride round a place like that. One of my regular trips, at least ten times normal amount of people, big football and cricket games in the park, group horse and bike rides. Only thing we didn't find was an open pub, but wasn't really looking for one. No doubt I could have found one with a bit of effort.

[bigwordsmith]

I’ve never had the skill, or patience for scratch building, or indeed brass/white metal, so I am full of admiration for those who can do it.

 

however give me a recalcitrant petrol engine and a big enough hammer, and I’m yer man!

[Tony Wright]

12 hours ago, Mallard60022 said:

Bit of a faff to get the Comet Gearbox to 'mesh' correctly. I had it set up and with the rods fitted but when I was running it in on the Rolling Road, it was obviously not right. I took the Gearbox out and adjusted the motor screw fitting holes so that the worm was a fraction nearer the gear cog and lo, it was OK.

However that took almost all afternoon FFS! This time I shall run the Motor/Gearbox and centre Drivers in without the rods engaged to ensure the meshing is OK before I lash up the Coupling and Connecting Rods. Tomorrow I might well set up the Pickups and go for a working chassis as TW calls it. His DVD advice and technique is as sound now as it was when he first made that DVD.

Very good for Mindfulness doing this stuff if anyone needs 'calm and quiet' activity.

P

Good morning Phil,

 

Glad you've sorted the Comet 'box out. Which motor are you using? If it's a Mashima, the motor-fixing holes have to be broached to take the screws - a potentially-tricky task. If it's a Canon, the holes are much better at source, and automatically allow for adjustment (effectively being north/south slots). These redesigned etched 'boxes for Canon motors are far better than the original Comet ones (which date from the Comet quartet days). 

 

One bit of advice; make sure any motor/gearbox combo runs sweetly/quietly before its inserted in the frames. I can't remember my procedure on the DVD, but it would be along the lines of.....

 

1. Erect motor/gearbox and thoroughly test (DJH's marvellous made-up gearboxes obviate this step).

2. Erect the frames, checking all is true and broach the bearings.

3. Fit the drivers, putting the drive on to the axle of choice and check for sweetness using crocodile clips. 

4. Fit the pick-ups and wire them up to the motor (checking the polarity), and check for sweetness again.

5. Laminate (if necessary) the coupling rods and check for ease of running before securing them - I've seen too many 'rolling chassis' which will do just that; roll down an inclined plain, and the rods don't bind. However, when driven, they bind, because the forces are the opposite to the test. Small bits of PVC tube will temporarily secure the rods if necessary.

6. If the chassis has valve gear, build the body and leave the twiddly bits to the last.

 

Take care and stay safe.

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

[Mallard60022]

1 hour ago, Tony Wright said:

Good morning Phil,

 

Glad you've sorted the Comet 'box out. Which motor are you using? If it's a Mashima, the motor-fixing holes have to be broached to take the screws - a potentially-tricky task. If it's a Canon, the holes are much better at source, and automatically allow for adjustment (effectively being north/south slots). These redesigned etched 'boxes for Canon motors are far better than the original Comet ones (which date from the Comet quartet days). 

 

One bit of advice; make sure any motor/gearbox combo runs sweetly/quietly before its inserted in the frames. I can't remember my procedure on the DVD, but it would be along the lines of.....

 

1. Erect motor/gearbox and thoroughly test (DJH's marvellous made-up gearboxes obviate this step).

2. Erect the frames, checking all is true and broach the bearings.

3. Fit the drivers, putting the drive on to the axle of choice and check for sweetness using crocodile clips. 

4. Fit the pick-ups and wire them up to the motor (checking the polarity), and check for sweetness again.

5. Laminate (if necessary) the coupling rods and check for ease of running before securing them - I've seen too many 'rolling chassis' which will do just that; roll down an inclined plain, and the rods don't bind. However, when driven, they bind, because the forces are the opposite to the test. Small bits of PVC tube will temporarily secure the rods if necessary.

6. If the chassis has valve gear, build the body and leave the twiddly bits to the last.

 

Take care and stay safe.

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

Absolutely Tony, thanks. Some time since I've done this so I faffed. However I enjoyed it an did not throw it out of the window. Note to self, invest in a DJH assembled gearbox! Bit expensive but does the job exactly as required.

Best wishes to you and Mo and you too, be safe and play trains.

Sincerely,

Phil(& Pip)

[Mallard60022]

Never forgret; wot a gude teacher."dun for youz?"

Only needs two wires as it's not DCC. Walking speed on the RR with a lovely old H & M on Half Wave (Mashima Motor). To avoid confusing LNER/BRER fellows and ladies , this is almost an H15 from that place far away in the south. All withdrawn by 12/'61; I have one photo of one somewhere near Yeovil in 1960/early '61so it is almost worth completing.

Bit of a 'lump' but looks like an H15 from several hundred feet away.

Phil

 

[Captain Kernow]

3 hours ago, Mallard60022 said:

Never forgret; wot a gude teacher."dun for youz?"

Only needs two wires as it's not DCC. Walking speed on the RR with a lovely old H & M on Half Wave (Mashima Motor). To avoid confusing LNER/BRER fellows and ladies , this is almost an H15 from that place far away in the south. All withdrawn by 12/'61; I have one photo of one somewhere near Yeovil in 1960/early '61so it is almost worth completing.

Bit of a 'lump' but looks like an H15 from several hundred feet away.

Phil

 

Lovely, Monsieur Ducque.

 

The Walschaerearats is going round so fast that you can't even see it!

 

[bigwordsmith]

Looks rather fine to

Me Phil

[Mallard60022]

I hate to say this but another WM lump is being resurrected and that lump is a SEFC Arthur.

The Hornby product is superb but I will have built this one, warts and all!

This is actually a lovely kit from the Dave 'Stables' with beautiful castings and a replacement one piece Boiler that was not in the original cheapo kit from Ebay. It has lots of little 'extras' that I found, such as decent Screw Couplings and Markits SR Clack Valves and Pipes that are beautiful little Brass Turnings. It also has the SEFC Chassis and VG that is too; very fine etches all round. 

Practising on the H15 should hopefully mean I can make better progress on this beast, however I won't get away with a filthy, black paint job on this one. It will need a proper BR Green job doing to it, lining and all that jazz. 

I am just taking that loco up to the loft after fettling the Connecting Rods that fit on very posh Crank Pins that have little Top Hat Bushes. I used the TW method of opening out the CR holes at the ends, just a tad, with the Rat Tail File. It appears to run as smoothly as a Smooth Snake on an oily piece of Marble Slab. Let's see what it does on the track with finger pokin' power. I shall run in the H15 a little more while I am up there.

P

[vaughan45]

Looks good to me, but then I have always found whitemetal kits to be a bit of 'black art' and my nemesis. Still it looks like you will get more practicing time as I see the government website timescale for 'shielding' has changed from 12 weeks (from 3rd week in March) to "at least the end of June".

 

Keep well & safe

[Tony Wright]

6 hours ago, Mallard60022 said:

Never forgret; wot a gude teacher."dun for youz?"

Only needs two wires as it's not DCC. Walking speed on the RR with a lovely old H & M on Half Wave (Mashima Motor). To avoid confusing LNER/BRER fellows and ladies , this is almost an H15 from that place far away in the south. All withdrawn by 12/'61; I have one photo of one somewhere near Yeovil in 1960/early '61so it is almost worth completing.

Bit of a 'lump' but looks like an H15 from several hundred feet away.

Phil

 

Wonderful stuff, Phil,

 

I take it, in the fullness of time, you'll change those bogie wheels? Two too many spokes!

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

[bigwordsmith]

9 minutes ago, vaughan45 said:

Looks good to me, but then I have always found whitemetal kits to be a bit of 'black art' and my nemesis. Still it looks like you will get more practicing time as I see the government website timescale for 'shielding' has changed from 12 weeks (from 3rd week in March) to "at least the end of June".

 

Keep well & safe

 

So I got a letter from HMG in Mid march telling me I shouldn't go out for three months, then one from my hospital saying much the same, which didn't;t arrive until end March. So that pretty much takes us up to end June either way.

 

As it is I think Boris plans to keep everyone imprisoned until end May. After that we'll all be socially restricted, sorry 'distanced' so we're all still buggered!

 

I know I desperately need new lenses for my bins - heaven knows how we'll achieve that!

[Mallard60022]

48 minutes ago, Tony Wright said:

Wonderful stuff, Phil,

 

I take it, in the fullness of time, you'll change those bogie wheels? Two too many spokes!

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

I want to chuck that front bogie set and maybe the whole damn Bogie as it is more crude than I am when drunk, but I believe Markits might be difficult to get hold of? The Arthur should also have ten spoke bigie wheels as well but 12s supplied. Why?

Any suggestions for 10 spoke 3'7" wheels would be most helpful Tony. Thank you.

P

Edited May 9, 2020 by Mallard60022

[Captain Kernow]

44 minutes ago, Mallard60022 said:

I want to chuck that front bogie set and maybe the whole damn Bogie as it is more crude than I am when drunk, but I believe Markits might be difficult to get hold of? The Arthur should also have ten spoke bigie wheels as well but 12s supplied. Why?

Any suggestions for 10 spoke 3'7" wheels would be most helpful Tony. Thank you.

P

Alan Gibson do a 3' 7" 10 spoke bogie wheel - have a look at page 9 on here (product code 4843) - http://www.alangibsonworkshop.com/Catalogue.pdf

 

[Tankerman]

On 01/04/2020 at 14:06, NHY 581 said:

 

 

In Cardiff, S.A Brain is the local brewery and has been for a very long time. 

 

So, it is quite possible to have a nice supper of Brains faggots, chips and peas, washed down with a pint of Brains......

 

Rob. 

Just browsing through looking at some of the lovely work that I could never emulate and I saw this reference to Brains Brewery in Cardiff. It brought back memories as I and set up and commissioned the boiler controls when new boilers were installed in 1977 or 1978. I spent the evenings very pleasantly at Cardiff Central watching the trains go by.

Edited May 9, 2020 by Tankerman
i instead of I