BobD Posted April 25, 2011 Share Posted April 25, 2011 I have several sample parts being done, to try it out. Some of my body shells get quite expensive, but if the quality is there, it will be worth it.. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
stadman Posted April 25, 2011 Share Posted April 25, 2011 Thingiverse, don't think there's any model railway parts there yet. Quite possibly. Over time, perhaps we will see 3D CAD files to purchase and print at home, but that's a long way off yet. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold bcnPete Posted April 25, 2011 RMweb Gold Share Posted April 25, 2011 Hey Simon, Fascinating thread and development. I would be interested to hear more on the 2mm class 25 developments for butchering a Farish one...any more news on that? Thanks, Pete Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
billbedford Posted April 25, 2011 Share Posted April 25, 2011 If developements continue at the current rate it won't be long before you can print things at home (even if the printers cost a lot of money). The biggest thing that I would look for in a 3D printer at home would be the quality and detail of the finished print. I somehow don't think so have a look at this. He may be talking about setting up a bureau, but what he says applies equally to home based machines. If you want to build big models at high resolution then someone is going to have to invest in expensive machines. Hopefully the likes of Shapeways have given a lead in they way the market is likely to going, at least in the next decade or so. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
simon br blue Posted April 25, 2011 Author Share Posted April 25, 2011 I've seen the new material and ordered some parts yesterday. On the blog a figure on 0.032mm layer thickness was mentioned which should give a better finish. With the minimum wall thickness being reduced from 0.7mm to 0.3mm I tried scaling down a 25 bogie to 4mm from O gauge as all the scaled down parts should still be printiable. Also ordered is a 25.1 cab in 4mm to see what how it comes out in the new material. I've redrawn the cab and modified the wings next to the headcode box to and added some headboard clips to see if they will print ok. Hey Simon, Fascinating thread and development. I would be interested to hear more on the 2mm class 25 developments for butchering a Farish one...any more news on that? Thanks, Pete I've ordered a couple of n gauge class 25.3 cabs to see what they will look like in the new material- I've also changed the roof profile as the roof shape of the Farish body isn't the same as the Hornby or Bachmann models. I'm keeping a lookout on Ebay for a new class 24 shell or non runner to have a go at butchering into a 25.1 but I've not seen any yet. 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
m davies Posted April 29, 2011 Share Posted April 29, 2011 Alright!, now I'm interested, this new ultra material looks perfect for 7mm details, need to redress my masters, price up and order, finally might be able to make some progress on this stuff now, thanks for the heads up and watching you pioneers very closely . Kindest Michael Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
simon br blue Posted May 13, 2011 Author Share Posted May 13, 2011 I finally got the latest shapeways prints today in the Frosted Ultra Detail material (FUD). According to the shapeways website there has been a delay with processing orders because of the high demand for the new material. I've not managed to get photos of all the different prints as the light was starting to fade and the detail wouldn't show up very well. I'll try some more pics after they've been primed. The first impression of material is that it's like the other detail materials they do but much finer. Also some of the parts have come out nearly clear where as others look almost white- I think that a good wash and clean will possibly remove some of the remaining white areas. The layers are still visable but are much finer and almost smooth to the touch. The first item is the 4mm class 25.1 cab pictured in my previous post. The headboard clips have come out well and the taillight surrounds look as good if not even better than the 7mm version. The next photo is of the N gauge 25.3 cab. The finish is good enough to prime, sand a little and then apply the livery - something I would soon do if I hadn't made a mistake with the scaling of the model. I might still paint it to see what the finish is like but it wont be fixing it to the Graham Farish body I have- I'll resize it ready for the next order. The final pictures are of a class 24 bogie printed in 00 gauge. this was simply to test to see if the new material would allow 7mm parts to be reduced down to 4mm without the wall thinkness being modified. The only part that has not come out very well is the thin section at the top which joins the two sides of the bogie together. I think this might be because the 7mm model it was scaled from was the first version I tried to print and this model was rejected in 7mm as the area was too thin for the WSF material. I guess that it's right on the limit of what can be printed in 4mm with FUD. The step in the picture is broken (only noticed after the pic was uploaded) This must have happen when the part was being cleaned when it was seperated from the support material. The material does have some flex in it and the steps can be bent and pushed back into place but would eventually get broken off if it was a model being used on a layout. I will try to get some pics when I've cleaned the other parts and primed them. Over all I'm happy with the print and will soon be ordering some more parts to test whats possible in the new material. 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Red Devil Posted May 13, 2011 Share Posted May 13, 2011 They look pretty good to me, as per normal the camera does show up any blemishes, to the naked eye I'd think they would look better, overall another improvement. I'm still waiting for my stuff in Frosted Ultra Detail so really pleased you posted these pics. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tebee Posted May 13, 2011 Share Posted May 13, 2011 It does seem to be a very hard material to get decent photos of - I've been trying most of the day in different lights and have only got a few that are sort of OK. Here is one of OO9 wagons in detail(not ultradetail), main problem I have with it is the couplings are warped slightly upwards, but overall I'm very satisfied. It does have some surface texture you can see at high magnification though, but no worse than a resin kit. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
craigwelsh Posted May 13, 2011 Share Posted May 13, 2011 I think it needs a coat of grey primer to really show up in photos but I think its a great step forward in the previous generation. If you can prime the not quite N cab and post that would be great . Prior to doing any sanding too if possible so we can see it as is so to speak. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
billbedford Posted May 19, 2011 Share Posted May 19, 2011 Mmmm, my first attempt with FUD didn't quite work out :-( 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
S.A.C Martin Posted May 19, 2011 Share Posted May 19, 2011 Even so Bill, shows what can be done. The couplings on the extreme left look terrific! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
craigwelsh Posted May 19, 2011 Share Posted May 19, 2011 Mmmm, my first attempt with FUD didn't quite work out :-( In what way? They look alright but are they rigid instead of flexible (or vice versa) or just not strong enough for anything? The instanter has gone into the short position nicely. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Will J Posted May 19, 2011 Share Posted May 19, 2011 All this talk of Frosted Ultra Detail material has finally got me ordering from Shapeways. My blog here: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/blog/351/entry-6638-the-return-on-the-n-gauge-people-mover-shapeways-printing/ Has a picture of my designs for a tiny N gauge Class 139. I will keep it updated when the model arrives. Out of interest, how long have things taken to arrive. I'm sure it will be worth the wait and I can well appreciate how much demand there must be.... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Red Devil Posted May 19, 2011 Share Posted May 19, 2011 Out of interest, how long have things taken to arrive. I'm sure it will be worth the wait and I can well appreciate how much demand there must be.... I think I've probably been the unluckiest, but I've got an order from the 25 April still not here yet. Supposedly production is getting better but it's much slower than their normal 10 working day turnround. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tricky-CRS Posted May 19, 2011 Share Posted May 19, 2011 My FUB items arrived today order 12 working days ago. Really pleased with them the detail level is good they are Nn3 so quite small. Will show them at the NGS AGM to Nn3 group then post pics. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
KBscale Posted May 19, 2011 Share Posted May 19, 2011 I placed an order for FUD last Friday and have just had an email saying it will be delivered tomorrow. Very quick. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobD Posted May 19, 2011 Share Posted May 19, 2011 My first order took about the 10 days, but I did get in quick. I have placed another order which I am hoping will arrive before the NGS AGM, but I am not holding my breath (although, it has gone into production) I also have an order for the smoothed WSF material. These are not high detail parts. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tricky-CRS Posted May 19, 2011 Share Posted May 19, 2011 Hi BobD see you a week on saturday, please pop buy and say hello, I'll be on my trade stand. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobD Posted May 19, 2011 Share Posted May 19, 2011 I'll try to do that. I will be sharing space with Adam Warr, Electra Railway Graphics. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
simon br blue Posted May 19, 2011 Author Share Posted May 19, 2011 Mmmm, my first attempt with FUD didn't quite work out :-( I noticed these on shapeways. What went wrong with the print - also what scale are they? I've given the bogie and N gauge cab a quick prime and will try to post some pics soon. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
craigwelsh Posted May 19, 2011 Share Posted May 19, 2011 I've given the bogie and N gauge cab a quick prime and will try to post some pics soon. Great thanks, although the pictures so far look really good it would be nice to see how a coat of grey primer gets rid of the refractions in the translucent material and hides any remaining banding. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
billbedford Posted May 19, 2011 Share Posted May 19, 2011 In what way? They look alright but are they rigid instead of flexible (or vice versa) or just not strong enough for anything? The screw link coupling don't articulate and the tommy bars fell off, so I am going to have to look at the CAD again. As fo strength, I don't know yet, but I would guess they would be OK for a shunting plank. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
simon br blue Posted May 22, 2011 Author Share Posted May 22, 2011 A couple of pics of the FUd that I've Primed. The 4mm class 24 bogie looks ok and the layers of the print are not really visiable. A coat of black should finish it off without any sanding needed. The N 'ish' gauge class 25.3 cab doesn't look as good as there are some lines visiable on the cab side and on the roof- both would vanish with a sand and spray of the topcoat. The detail doesn;t look as good either (around the windows and tail lights) but that might be because I just painted the cab and didn't give it a good clean to remove any of the support material. I'll try to get the 4mm 25.1 acb primed this week and a couple of the other tests I had printed. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tricky-CRS Posted May 23, 2011 Share Posted May 23, 2011 I found that the orints need a good wash in warm water to remove the suport wax. At first I tought that some prints came out better than others but after a wash they all looked much the same. On the Nn3 stuff the layering gives some teture, but not to bad. Oddly the curved roofs bo not show it all all. Looks promising. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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