saxokid Posted June 1, 2019 Share Posted June 1, 2019 More impressive modelling work here Jack my good frend... cheers neil. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack374 Posted June 11, 2019 Author Share Posted June 11, 2019 Thanks Neil, much appreciated! Before I begin, I’ve had a change of heart. After attending DEMU and speaking to some very inspirational D&E era modellers (and Mick.... ), I’ve decided to change my modelling period to present day. I’d been musing it over for a while, but I'm more active as a photographer now than ever, so despite remembering 2013 and surrounding years vividly, I remember yesterday and this year even more so!! Let’s just say I’m in a much happier place with railway modelling now and I’m enjoying having as much fun as I used to in the first pages of this thread. I’ve got many many exciting plans too, including a layout with knitting......... So enough philosophical waffle. The class 20 is progressing nicely, with the last few bits picked up from Mr Hanson at DEMU. This included a cab aerial (not pictured as it took 10 mins to assemble and mount) and some lovely light clusters. Firstly though, the second tank was added and the filler pipe fashioned from 0.5mm steel wire. I shan’t bother with the rivets on the lower edge because life is too short to rivet-count: And now the lights. Brian now produces an etched Wipac cover for both styles (3 and 2 lights) and had some laser cut plasticard back pieces with him. Needless to say, a good few were nabbed for various projects! Because I wanted to try working bonnet end lights, I copied the plasticard pieces with some copperclad and countersunk the lens holes slightly to fit the etched covers better. Then some 0603 and 0402 SMDs were soldered on. 0402s are new to me, but I felt they were needed for the marker lights. They’re bright enough!! And finally some enamelled wires were soldered on. I’ll tidy up the back with filler ready for mounting. The ends and parts of the body I’ve worked on will be primed next before I can fit these. Also these will be given a good coating of black paint to prevent light bleed! The 20 will still become 20303, but now in Compass colours with a 'Max Joule' nameplate, if I can source one..... My other Hornby 20 (20308) has received new light backs, the shape copied from the laser cut parts. The bonnet end will be non-working with the cab end working with lights in the cab and fibre optic poking through. Before my new found enthusiasm, I decided I wanted to sell my Northern Belle rake and Princess Coronation class 'Duchess of Sutherland' (yes, a KETTLE ), but as it was on the workbench, I warmed to it. So much so, that a TTS chip has been bought and chassis butchered for the speaker to fit!! A sugar cube has been soldered on, providing better sounds for smaller space. I also brought home a MK1 BSK No. 99953, which was a limited edition portraying the NRM support coach which travels behind 'Flying Scotsman' and other National Collection locos. It cost a princely £15 at the Blackburn exhibition last year. This is to become 99041 for the 'Duchess'. Exciting times!! Happy modelling! Jack. 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dj_crisp Posted June 12, 2019 Share Posted June 12, 2019 Jack - Looks great! Where did you source the super thin wire from? I've been after some really thin stuff to squeeze into my projects. Cheers Will 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack374 Posted June 12, 2019 Author Share Posted June 12, 2019 1 hour ago, dj_crisp said: Where did you source the super thin wire from? I've been after some really thin stuff to squeeze into my projects. Cheers Will! A search on eBay, Amazon or similar for "enamelled wire" will pull up various vendors. The gauge depends on how you want to use it...one was selling 0.08mm to 0.28mm...I use roughly the latter size because I would never need it as fine as less than .1mm! It’s used for transformer coils I think so is readily available and cheap. HTH, Jack. 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steadfast Posted June 12, 2019 Share Posted June 12, 2019 Jack, how sturdy is the enamelled wire? I'm thinking the 0.1mm stuff on eBay may be good for N scale handrails, once painted white. Even 0.2 can look overscale Jo Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium newbryford Posted June 13, 2019 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 13, 2019 On 11/06/2019 at 22:10, Jack374 said: Before I begin, I’ve had a change of heart. After attending DEMU and speaking to some very inspirational D&E era modellers (and Mick.... ), I don't know if that rates a or a It was a good chat and most importantly - do what you are happy to do. There is something to be said for doing "it" at least once, but be ready to make sure that doing "it" again, will keep you happy. Two simple rules: #1 IMTS - it's my train set - after all it's a hobby and hobbies are supposed to be fun. #2 Do what is achievable. (and you'll have fun doing it) Cheers, Mick 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack374 Posted June 13, 2019 Author Share Posted June 13, 2019 8 hours ago, Steadfast said: Jack, how sturdy is the enamelled wire? I'm thinking the 0.1mm stuff on eBay may be good for N scale handrails, once painted white. Even 0.2 can look overscale Hi Jo, the answer I’m afraid is not very sturdy. It’s simply copper wire with a very thin enamel lacquer coating, and as such it behaves as copper wire usually does. The .3 stuff is very flexible, so I imagine the .1 stuff is even worse. Would steel wire do? 7 hours ago, newbryford said: I don't know if that rates a or a It was a good chat and most importantly - do what you are happy to do. I’d rate it as if I were you! Very good chat...I suppose I needed to make my mind up (or needed to be influenced!) as to what I wanted to do. Needless to say, I’m now having as much fun as ever and as much as at the start of this thread when 'anything goes' and I did what I liked. Fun times ahead!! Thanks, Jack. 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium JDW Posted June 13, 2019 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 13, 2019 On 12/06/2019 at 09:20, Jack374 said: Cheers Will! A search on eBay, Amazon or similar for "enamelled wire" will pull up various vendors. The gauge depends on how you want to use it...one was selling 0.08mm to 0.28mm...I use roughly the latter size because I would never need it as fine as less than .1mm! It’s used for transformer coils I think so is readily available and cheap. HTH, Jack. Hi Jack, That's very useful, I was about to ask the same thing. My Realtrack 144 centre car project has been on hold for quite a while partly because I lack thin enough wire to rewire it and partly through lack of ability to do said rewiring! At least your answer has solved one of those two issues. What's it like for soldering though? My skills in that department are limited, and I imagine I'd have to invest in a much finer tipped iron anyway. I imagine it will still need the ceramic coating removing before you solder, which must be pretty fiddly? All advice appreciated! Thanks Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack374 Posted June 13, 2019 Author Share Posted June 13, 2019 1 hour ago, JDW said: My skills in that department are limited, and I imagine I'd have to invest in a much finer tipped iron anyway. I imagine it will still need the ceramic coating removing before you solder, which must be pretty fiddly? Hi JDW, a finer tip may help but tbh any 'iron will do as long as it’s hot enough to adequately melt the solder. I find leaded solder best but obviously wash your hands afterwards. For preparation I get an end of wire and place it flat on the bench then scrape at it with a sharp knife. If you look closely you can see the flakes of enamel coming off. The copper wire is slightly shinier than the enamelled coat so it is possible to see where you’ve scraped off. I usually take a good 10mm off for ease but for the Wipacs it needed to be just 1mm roughly. I then turn the wire through a right angle and repeat, then again to get 3 or 4 'sides' clean - most of the wire circumference. Then tin the end up and if the solder sticks then it’s found the copper, if not then there’s still some enamel in the way requiring further cleaning. After this it behaves in much the same way as standard stranded wire, just solder in place. Another more rustic way is to get some abrasive paper of small grit size (800-1200 ish) and fold it then place the end of wire in the crease and repeatedly pull back and forth to abrade some enamel off. I find this doesn’t always work and often removes too much and can weaken the wire. Good for if you just need bare copper and don’t mind the insulation though. Hope this helps! Ask away if you need any more info. Jack. 1 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium JDW Posted June 13, 2019 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 13, 2019 Very useful, thanks. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Departmental203 Posted June 13, 2019 Share Posted June 13, 2019 Good work Jack! Keep it up Jules 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Southwich Posted June 13, 2019 Share Posted June 13, 2019 Very nice work Jack - looks awesome! Was nice to catch up at DEMU. keep up the good work! Will 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack374 Posted June 14, 2019 Author Share Posted June 14, 2019 Thanks very much for the comments and queries guys, I’m always happy to answer them. Today and this evening I’ve managed to get the cab of the 20 ready for priming, which will hopefully materialise tomorrow or Sunday. Firstly I finished soldering the enamelled wires onto the other pair of light clusters, then drilled holes in the cab for this set and glued them on with copious amounts of super glue. This should have filled the gap, which is minimal anyway, but primer will reveal all! I constructed a quick circuit board to connect the lights to a 9V cell, and the SMDs need a total of 10K resistance: far more than I’d anticipated. No matter, some 10K surface mount resistors are on their way. Below are a couple of shots with the lights mounted and MW socket added too: I had a small mishap when testing and blew one SMD...it looked like it was a marker light when it went crack but thankfully - in the absolute best case scenario - it turned out to be the night headlight! I can live without that... Also in the above picture I’ve added Brian’s exquisite reinforced frames: I’d held off this step until just before priming due to their fine nature. The cab front frames are black on the prototype so these will be separately painted and added near the end. Finally, the last job pre-priming was to paint the light clusters black to help with any light bleed then add a small strip to the cab front as per the real thing. The cab is now finished as far as it can be... We now definitely have a 20/3! Happy modelling! Jack. 6 1 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CazRail Posted June 16, 2019 Share Posted June 16, 2019 The 20/3 looks great! 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack374 Posted June 16, 2019 Author Share Posted June 16, 2019 Cheers Caz! As promised, the cab has been primed with the first pass, which was done very lightly and did it's job at highlighting any rough areas. The inside was sprayed too. The plasticard represents the cabinets as seen in the real things (I was lucky enough to cab one and get photos while on an RHTT run), and they handily hold the wires in place. The black paint for light bleed didn’t work fully, so I reapplied it, this time connected to a battery (via resistors) to highlight where it was needed. The minor bleed on the day h/l I’m not fussed about as it’ll disappear with a lens in front, and the night h/l has been painted black as it doesn’t work.... At the other end, the lights have been mounted with a plasticard back, and filler added in the gap, this being the second pass. Buffers are added (turned brass from Markits) with a dual plasticard/brass (Shawplan) back plate. The body will be next for primer when I’m satisfied with the filler and the clusters are painted black: Finally, during times when paint/filler has been drying, I’ve flattened the Hornby 20 cab end and added another layer of light cluster backs to the bonnet end. This shouldn’t take as long as the Bachmann one as I’ll be having dummy bonnet end and standard (light board and fibre optic) lights at the cab end. More soon! Jack. 7 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bradfordbuffer Posted June 21, 2019 Share Posted June 21, 2019 On 13/06/2019 at 01:00, newbryford said: I don't know if that rates a or a It was a good chat and most importantly - do what you are happy to do. There is something to be said for doing "it" at least once, but be ready to make sure that doing "it" again, will keep you happy. Two simple rules: #1 IMTS - it's my train set - after all it's a hobby and hobbies are supposed to be fun. #2 Do what is achievable. (and you'll have fun doing it) Cheers, Mick Don't forget the third and most important rule (my favourite and most appropriate to me) Rule 3: I A A A S I R I am a arse so I'm right! 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack374 Posted June 25, 2019 Author Share Posted June 25, 2019 Evening...much progress has occurred with the 20, which is now ready for yellow ends. The primer needed 2 passes for each body part, and when I was satisfied the lock was given a light dusting of white on top which will help the yellow density. This is the first time I’ve assembled it since beginning, and it’s looking the part! Apologies about the pics this evening, they’re not doing so well! I blame the weather... I've also sorted out the trailing bogie due to the milled chassis. I ended up using two pieces of brass rod inserted into the holes for the gears, soldered to a plate with a pivot hole. This provided a robust, physical connection. A piece of plasticard was bolted to the chassis and a bolt put through the middle and locked in place with superglue. Thanks to countersunk bolts, the assembly sits below the chassis inside the body, allowing the use of a megabass speaker from Roads and Rails, as seen in the last picture. This evening I painted the wheels and added tyre slip markings, as well as painting the bogies, visible in the assembled shots. Painting next! On the kettle front, the Duchess has had a pair of lamps added with the RH (driver's) side having a surface mount LED with enamelled wires added. These were done from 3mm plasticard square strip, with a 1.5mm hole through. The whole thing was painted black for light bleed, and the lamps will be built up as per the ones she now carries. (Photo from Flickr, click to link) (again rubbish pictures) The coupling has been added from an RTR screw link and brass screw link...cannot remember the make for the life of me. A plasticard backplate was added too. All the details will be picked out in due course as some aren't painted (smokebox hinges/various pipes and fittings) but I’ll do this at the end. That's all for now! Jack. 9 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bradfordbuffer Posted June 25, 2019 Share Posted June 25, 2019 With the size of that speaker in your class 20 your going to be as welcome as a chav in a nova 1liter supper dooper sport version with big exhaust pulling donuts in town centre car park ! ASBO FOR JACK PLEASE.... Top work...but what's with the water boiler? DRS new traction for flask traffic? 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium newbryford Posted June 25, 2019 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 25, 2019 On 21/06/2019 at 10:52, bradfordbuffer said: Don't forget the third and most important rule (my favourite and most appropriate to me) Rule 3: I A A A S I R I am a arse so I'm right! Corrected for you. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bradfordbuffer Posted June 25, 2019 Share Posted June 25, 2019 Ouch...but also very true! I new I was good at something! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack374 Posted July 1, 2019 Author Share Posted July 1, 2019 On 25/06/2019 at 23:09, bradfordbuffer said: With the size of that speaker in your class 20 your going to be as welcome as a chav in a nova 1liter supper dooper sport version with big exhaust pulling donuts in town centre car park ! That's not the biggest you can fit either, I've yet to try out an EM2 for something that needs the B A S S S S S S This weekend and today I’ve been getting on with the 20s...now a pair after I fitted the light clusters (Shawplan laser cut) and MW socket to the Hornby model, along with the buffers; the same as the Bachmann one as described previously. The Bachmann model has had the ends sprayed yellow and then this evening I sprayed the bufferbeams red. Both are Halford's rattle cans: Fiat Golden Yellow and VW Mars Red respectively. The only colour I’ve yet to find (that I’m happy with) is DRS blue, so this weekend I’ll spray this up when I get home. And between tasks, some more work on the Duchess... With a small amount of butchery of useless plastic, a space was created in the smokebox for the decoder, with the speaker sitting in the main boiler above the front drivers and the 8 pin socket (in case the chip goes pop) just visible behind the 4 pin plug. This plug will correspond to one on the chassis to supply track power and receive motor supply from the decoder. Other than wiring the chassis, only detail painting and finishing the lamps remains on this loco. Keep modelling! Jack. 6 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack374 Posted July 4, 2019 Author Share Posted July 4, 2019 I’ve got red fingers and blue hands.........from painting of course! Today and yesterday I managed to get both 20s painted, so that only the cab end bufferbeam on 308 and the roof on 303 need doing, once they’re both fully dry. Apologies for the dire photos! The masking tape pulled all the numbers off 308 so they’ll need reapplying...they might’ve come off anyway so it’s no bother. I also managed to wire up the 'Duchess’ chassis, although I’ve not tested it yet. Simple pair of wires from the pick ups and a pair from the motor to a 4 way socket, just visible between the nearest 2 pieces of tape: It *should* work now (touches wood) so I’ll give it a test next week as I’m back up north this weekend. Happy modelling! Jack. 4 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bradfordbuffer Posted July 5, 2019 Share Posted July 5, 2019 One word jack to do with your spraying...... GLOVES..! G 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium newbryford Posted July 5, 2019 RMweb Premium Share Posted July 5, 2019 2 hours ago, bradfordbuffer said: One word jack to do with your spraying...... GLOVES..! G G has a ready supply of rubber ones................. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bradfordbuffer Posted July 7, 2019 Share Posted July 7, 2019 Oh I do! Current supply are black and fit well....as you can see I'm a xl fit!... Can feel a rude / derogatory comment comming from over the border in darkest deepest Lancashire.... Could be the start of new thread....show us your rubber gloves!... gosh! need to stay off the espresso's 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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