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Jack's Present Day Workbench - Coaches of Many Colours


Jack374
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  • Jack374 changed the title to Jack's Present Day Workbench...EMR Class 222 & Snowploughs

Thanks everyone for the comments! :good:

 

I'll start with the snowploughs. Before I go any further, I’d like to give one massive piece of advice for anyone wanting to straighten out the ploughs and repaint: don’t do it!!! :no:

 

I say this because the effort and time I’ve put in getting them right and then masking those bl00dy chevrons has been a joke, but the end is nigh:

 

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This is the second (brass) plough, which since last update has had cover handles added from 0.3mm steel wire, and these have been painted along with the lamp and all the silver bolt heads - these were done more finely than last time (but still stick out like a sore thumb in photos) and the first plough had the dots reduced in size retrospectively. The body was painted with red then white primer (to give some depth and warmth to the yellow), then Rover Inca Yellow from a Halfords rattle can. The pesky chevrons were masked sprayed with Halfords gloss black, which has always come out thick and this was no exception, despite the can being very warm when sprayed.

 

After these photos, the lamp bracket in the above pic which I missed was painted and so was the cant rail stripe. Some painting was tidied up too around the handles.

 

Below is a shot for comparison between the original shape and the correct brass straight edge I’ve added:

 

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Quite a difference!

 

And the last job I did today was sort the horrific couplings...yet another oversight on the model. I assume Flangeway used a cam which was already designed, resulting in a monumental gap between loco and plough. This was sorted simply by cutting off a small lug which controlled the amount of side play and then drilling a new 3.2mm hole to give the correct gap. Even this might be a bit large! I tested with a Kadee too at worst case scenario and all is well:

 

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And now the Purple Peril.

 

The DMS (standard driving coach) and MSRMB (standard buffet) have had a second pass of primer, photos below. The centre coach has had two half windows reduced to third-windows as per the real things. I thankfully had a photo of the window near the buffet which was perfect for measuring against a full size window and it was almost exactly 1/3 the width. This was achieved using a 30thou styrene blank, cut to roughly the right size then glued in with liquid super glue and primed, filled, filed and primed again - below are the final shots. I should’ve taken some 'in progress' shots but just rattled through the process. There are 2 windows on the DMF (other pointy coach!) which have been blanked with a full blank in the same way as just described, but this hasn’t been primed yet as I’ve not fully started the coach.

 

The DMS end is now on the 3rd fill, and I think we’re nearly there. Obviously still lots of tidying up, but I’ve just been filling, sanding, priming and repeating whilst comparing to prototype photos. Other than the above, the roof mods on the MSRMB as described in the last post have been filled and sanded once, and you almost can’t see the blank in the roof now! There is however a gaping hole still; more on this after photos in the glorious sunshine:

 

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I’d like to thank surfsup for his generosity in donating a spare Voyager coach, which as I type is somewhere in the postal system on its way. This will help enormously with the remaining roof modifications (including that hole!) and should save me a fair bit of time...thank you kindly! :drinks:

 

Next jobs for the snowploughs are transfers (maybe tomorrow), then just some detailing and varnish and they’re there, thank heavens! I’ll have to find something else to fill the space on the workbench then...hmm......

 

For the 222, more sanding, filling and filing will commence, especially when the surfsup's donated coach arrives. I’ll test the paint I’ve got for the unit soon too, and finalise my plans for the branding.

 

I hope you’re all well, and I hope you can all find time for some modelling, especially as tomorrow is a Bank Holiday - remind me what they are again? :scratchhead:
 

Jack.

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Cheers Jules, and everyone who’s visited. :drinks:

 

Progress continues, although I’ve got a busy couple of weeks coming up, despite being off work, but university and life roll on!

 

I've been distracted recently by an envelope that eagle-eyed readers may have noticed on the workbench, which contains 20 pairs of Dingham Autocouplers. Southwich (Will) of this parish has been using them too and I’ve been following his progress, and eventually decided they were the coupling of choice for 'Fordley', so ordered a (relatively inexpensive) fret. The package contains plenty of parts including different styles of coupling pocket plates (mainly steam-orientated) and everything you need, including brass and iron wire.

 

A pair of hooks and a loop were assembled, largely following instructions. I’ve decided to use hooks and latches on locos and loops on wagon rake ends. This allows discrete latches on locos and prevents any stock being the wrong way round. Below is a shot of the latch and loop fitted to my 08 and an MFA respectively...the only wagon I’ve got with me currently!

 

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The brass wire stubs were soldered to all the hooks, using very minimal solder and tidying up with a file once done. I used trusty Blu-Tack to hold the hook at a slight angle on a flat piece of wood, then placed the wire in the hole and soldered. Must get better at taking in progress photos! Following the instructions, I had no issue using them. The etches are quite fiddly but fold very well, but only fold them once as 2 cycles of folding and unfolding result in 2 parts of an etch that should be joined! Oops. Another completed shot below:

 

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The instructions recommend solid buffers, so I used small pieces of plastic strip behind the buffers of my 08, to prevent springing whilst keeping super glue well away from the buffer itself in case I ever want sprung buffers again:

 

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While I was at it, I made a height gauge as this is crucial - even more so than tension locks or Kadees. I used a lump of plastic and butchered it to provide 2 roughly 14mm (recommended height) ledges. One was built up to exactly 14mm with styrene sheet, the other had a loop added. The loop will gauge the height of the latch and vice versa for the ledge, to see whether the loop on stock is correct. The lump of plastic and weight look very familiar...... :scratchhead:

 

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(They don’t quite line up above as the gauge works as intended on rails)


After building, it was testing time! Electromagnets are recommended, however I have a stash of incredibly powerful permanent magnets my dad recovered from some old computer hard disk drives he was destroying:

 

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They come in pairs mounted on plates, and I’ve not known magnets stronger. One was temporarily taped under a board on Fordley:

 

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...And duly tested. I made a video showing the autocoupler working well...

 


I'm very pleased with them so far - very fiddly but a price I can pay for automatic operation on Fordley, for which I’ve worked out a sequence where no 'hand of god' will be needed. Also they’re very discrete and relatively cheap compared to most other couplers.

 

Now back to usual business...

 

The snowploughs have had lamp irons added from scrap brass etch, simply cut and superglued in place. These were painted and any imperfections in the black paint were also seen to:

 

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As mentioned previously, the cant rail orange lines were added with masking tape and Humbrol orange, then tidied up when I did a black painting session:

 

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Only transfers left when we get a good weather day.

 

The 222 has been sanded and filled again, and we’re slowly getting there. This time I concentrated on the shape compared to photos, such as where I hadn’t pronounced an edge enough or had sanded a profile too flat. Any blemishes or imperfections in the below shots will easily be sorted once I’m happy with the shape, which I nearly am. The cab windows have also been done with styrene and filler:

 

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Also I’ve made a start on the fairings. Using the originals, I’ve added the curved bar by using a soldering iron to bend the styrene strip then sanded and glued it in place. It will of course be tidied up and is way off finished:

 

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My master plan is to cast both the cab and the fairing, so hopefully this will save a lot of time and allow future casts to be made for myself or others...watch this space. A starter casting kit was ordered earlier so by the time it arrives I might’ve got the cab and fairing done!

 

Hope you’re all well and you can find time for some therapeutic (or otherwise!) modelling...stay safe! :senile:

 

Jack.

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Hi Jack,

 

222's looking like a monster job !!

 

The couplings look neat (for a weird upsidedown tension lock thing!! :lol:)

I guess the benefit of using electromagnets is so you can 'push' over them without uncoupling ?

 

Cheers,

Phil.

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2 minutes ago, Phil Mc said:

The couplings look neat (for a weird upsidedown tension lock thing!! :lol:)

I guess the benefit of using electromagnets is so you can 'push' over them without uncoupling ?


Thanks Phil, and yeah that is the idea with electromagnets. I’ve gone through all the scenarios of the quarry trains on Fordley, and every time they’re propelled there is a need to uncouple once done, provided the train loco does the shunting throughout or the resident shunter releases it and shunts. A little shuffle may be needed with one or two moves (not the majority) but there are plenty of options. I’ll try with the permanent magnets but if it doesn’t work then I’ll either go with electromagnets or preferably non-latching hooks i.e. when propelling the wagon loop can rise and fall as it likes but it will always re-seat in the loco hook and not be held out and subsequently uncoupled. I’d then have to alter the magnet positions but it’d be easier than installing, wiring and operating electromagnets. Sounds like I’ll need a testing session with other operators to see what they think...I’ll have to find some first! :scratchhead:

 

Jack.

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Lovely work here Jack - that 222 looks like a 222 to me! Nice to see I’ve given you an idea regarding the Dinghams, they’re a great product all round I think, especially for the price which as you’ve said is more than reasonable!  I’ve gone for the exact same configuration as yours (latch on wagons hook on Locos), however I’ve also used the superb Accurascale screw links threaded onto the brass rod that’s soldered into the hook - I think it finishes them off! 
 

Regarding the latch on the locos, none of mine have it as I’ve just used the hook (for some reason I thought this would aid operation), so I think I’m going to switch to your method. The video of the 08 is superb and it works really nicely. I hope you don’t mind my photo of 37710 below:

 

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That shows the screw links in place as well. I’ve certainly found they need testing, however I think once you get to grips with them (I certainly haven’t yet!) they’ll be flawless.

 

Loving the progress - keep it coming! 
 

Will

 

 

Edited by Southwich
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15 minutes ago, Southwich said:

I’ve gone for the exact same configuration as yours (latch on wagons hook on Locos), however I’ve also used the superb Accurascale screw links threaded onto the brass rod that’s soldered into the hook - I think it finishes them off! 
 

Regarding the latch on the locos, none of mine have it as I’ve just used the hook (for some reason I thought this would aid operation), so I think I’m going to switch to your method.


Cheers as ever Will, very informative. What a great idea to use the cosmetic screw links...I’ll almost certainly do this in due course (with existing Hornby/Bachmann ones I’ve got stashed), however for the time being I need most stock to be able to accept Kadees or tension locks too. Indeed, after I took the shots in my post I fitted 2 Kadees to the 08 and a tension lock to the MFA (had to bend the Dingham a little but it’ll be bent back) to allow them to be run with other stock - for now.

 

When Fordley is at a runnable stage (properly with all boards) I’ll have lots of tests with magnet positions and also decide whether the latch on loco hooks helps or hinders operation. My initial thought is to probably bin the latches and just push the wagons a little further back when coupling up, so the coupling isn’t over the magnet. Another far-out idea I had was to use moveable magnets if there are any problem spots where coupling/uncoupling seems to be difficult. But this will be solved during thorough testing...that means playing trains! :senile:

 

Thanks,

Jack.

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Both of you have done a great job on the dinghams!

 

I rather like them too and fitted to some of my (dare I say it) steam age stock. I didn't do as good a job as you and found my bending skills weren't up to the job. The only thing I didn't get sorted was with them being handed whether I should go down the route of having hooks and loops one way or just have locks without hoops etc. I have some stock with 3 links so might have a play too by re-visiting the dinghams.

 

Cheers

Will

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2 hours ago, dj_crisp said:

The only thing I didn't get sorted was with them being handed whether I should go down the route of having hooks and loops one way or just have locks without hoops etc. I have some stock with 3 links so might have a play too by re-visiting the dinghams.


I think the best option unless you run fixed formations is hook and latch on locos (like my 08), and hook and loop on wagons. Obviously this presents an issue if you want to split wagon rakes...I’ve yet to see how this will work. There is a section of the instructions which says you can make a double-handed hook with latch and loop, but I’ll be honest I skimmed over this. More investigation needed! :yes:

 

1 hour ago, Geevor Clayton Loco said:

I really like they dingams, but I can't quite work out how the loop on the wagon comes up - does it have a bit of wire underneath the coupling that gets pulled down (by the magnet), pulling up the loop?

Proper job:good:


It's exactly as you say - the loop is hinged on the hook then the 'tail' of the loop is bent underneath the bufferbeam with the iron wire attached. Very clever system IMO. Cheers!

 

23 minutes ago, cheesysmith said:

If you do end up making those 222 cabs available, put me down for some.

 

I should be able to make a fair few from the one mould so I imagine I’ll make a batch and go from there. Of course, I’ll post if I’ve got any available and let you know. I need to get to grips with resin moulding first! Lots of advice on the forum though which I’ve been reading up on. Watch this space!

 

Thanks,

Jack.

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Thanks for looking in and for the questions! :yes:

 

Progress continues with the Purple Peril. Another pass of filler and sand down then more primer (I’ve lost count as to how many passes now...) and we’re ever closer. I drilled out the light holes and before the latest primer coat added the light lens shape with black Sharpie...now that makes it look like a 222! I’m probably going to paint on the outline when done because to cut out the whole light unit then create a shape and cast from clear resin would be too much work for little gain...

 

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Also the MSRMB is getting there with probably another fill sand prime before I’m happy with the new cutout position:

 

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A few parcels have arrived to do with the 222, namely the spare Voyager body (thanks again surfsup!) which I’ll chop up in due course. I’m thinking of casting about 3/4 of the roof to allow just one resin cast to be made which can be cut n shut into the Voyager roof. To do this I’ll need to cut and shut the exhaust cut out on the donor, but it’ll save lots of time for others or for future conversions. If using one casting isn’t as easy as I think then the cast can be cut up to just use the bits which are needed. Sounds complicated but I hope to explain better with pictures as I do it! Also I can now fill the gaping hole and finish the RMB.

 

The second package was the casting starter kit, so I’ve got no excuse not to crack on with this now!

 

Now for a S&T interlude...I realise last time I made a ground position light (GPL) I just posted a finished picture, so here’s how I did it.

 

Firstly I cut some squares of 0.5mm double-sided copper clad sheet, with dimensions taken from the Unipart Dorman data sheet for their PLs. From memory the lenses are around 3mm apart and the head size is 5.6mm x 5.4mm...tiny! 3 holes for the lenses were marked with a sharp implement - I used a scribing tool from a jeweller's screwdriver set...

 

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Then the holes were drilled. Because it’s a present day PL, the shared lens (bottom right as you look front on) needs a red and white SMD, so this had to be a 2mm diameter hole whilst the others were 1.3mm, with the front counter-sunk with the 2mm bit to allow light to spread a bit more. Some tracks of my own design were scribed on the back and checked with a DMM, then the shape was refined a bit more using Xuron track cutters of all tools!

 

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At this point it’s worth saying one is a PL which is just 2 white lights at 45* and signal-mounted, whilst the other two show red horizontal and white diagonal lights, and are ground/post mounted on their own.

 

Then the SMDs were soldered in...using my favourite 0603 type. You can also get 0402 but this is going a bit too far to be repeatable and accurately-soldered! 0.3mm enamelled copper wires were also added for -ve common and red/white +ve respectively:

 

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Then they were checked with a 3v cell to ensure they work (all did) and no tracks were bridged or joints left un-soldered...both are very easily done.

 

Finally for now, some brass mountings were scratch-built from scrap etch offcuts and 2mm OD brass tube. Also some 8mm tube was used as a mounting guide, to allow a miniature 3-pin plug to connect them to the board whilst allowing removal if necessary such as for damage or when re-ballasting etc. These will be cleaned up and painted next:

 

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That's all for now! I had one university exam last week and have got one on Monday (done from home), but after that I’m a free man...allegedly... :senile:

 

Hope you’re well and can get some modelling done!

Jack.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks for the ratings and replies all, much appreciated!

 

I can now thankfully say the s*dding snowploughs are finished!! Whether they were worth all the work is a question I've not been able to answer yet, but I'll (hopefully) never have to do another pair. To finish, a hefty amount of lead (from lead flashing used on roofs...obtained from a builder not stolen!!) was added to the space in the 'plough body, and the pair now weigh in together at 250g! I didn't fill all the space as it'd make the unit very rear-heavy - in hindsight I should've mounted the capacitor and decoder in the free space at the back shown below, allowing the space in the actual plough to be filled to balance the weight:

 

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Following this, Railtec transfers were applied from the handy renumbering/re-branding sheet. Also the original handrails were attached with liquid superglue - I had to make one from 0.3mm steel wire as this had been lost, possibly to the carpet monster. This 'rail and any others which needed it were touched up with Humbrol gloss white. Finally, any outstanding details were glued on, again with liquid superglue. This included the fall plate above the coupling/buffers (the 'open'/lifted one has turned out good!), the bufferbeam-mounted lifting brackets and the yellow attachments above the sharp end of the plough. A photoshoot on 'Fordley' in the sun followed yesterday, and a video of the directional lamps. I make no apologies for the amount of photos

 

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I also made a coupling bar between the pair. The prototype 'bar', which has even been used on the mainline (I found pictorial evidence on Flickr), is 'H' section IRL, however I didnt have any so used 1.5mm brass tube instead. Through this, I threaded some 0.5mm steel wire, which was bent at a right angle at the ends to go through a 0.6mm hole in each plough. The hole is actually through the coupling cover plate, but I couldn't justify hacking out this cover so added a small hole, which works well. They can now be shunted around DL yard as a pair with Kadees either end..

 

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While I was at it, I took a photo of a couple of other bits of stock in the sun.

 

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In other news, I've painted the array of signals for Fordley. The light 'lenses' were filed from 2mm dia. fibre-optic as before, then they were painted with Halfords grey primer and Humbrol matt black. All that remains is to make number plates, then paint/make some signal post telephones (SPTs), probably from styrene scraps. The final 3-aspect signal is on the way from CR Signals, and the very last signal is at the design/material sourcing stage, and may prove to be my most challenging yet - even more so than the GPLs...more on this when I've got something to show......

 

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...With a 1:1 scale finger shown for size!

 

Finally for now, I've decided to do something with my container rake. Lots of little things need doing as it was hurriedly put together for running on DL at Stafford earlier this year. Tasks include (but will most likely not be limited to) replacing missing handbrake wheels, fixing containers down better, weathering containers/wagon decks more, looking into closer-coupling of the rake and fixing broken bits. This last point is mainly on my early FEA-S conversions, as pictured below. These were featured near the start of the thread and used a fellow member's cast headstocks. At the time I bunged them straight on, painted them black and took the stance of 'the weathering will blend them in', but by my current standards - and having been succeeded by Hattons' superb new model - they need looking into. I've fixed a cracked deck (it'll be hidden by a box)), and will fill the porosity in the cast headstock and get it looking 'right' compared to the Hattons model. More on this as it happens:

 

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Oh, finally the 222 hasn't had much done to it but is in an awkward stage for photos - after filling yet again. There was a delay in sourcing the casting equipment so this is still in the post too - more on this soon.

 

That's all for now! I hope you're all safe and well and can do some modelling! :senile:

 

Thanks,

Jack.

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On 26/05/2020 at 16:52, Jack374 said:

 

 

Following this, Railtec transfers were applied from the handy renumbering/re-branding sheet. 

 

I see you used some free spare decals............

(Suitably exchanged for other items and running rights on DL of course!)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Oh - ploughs look the biz.

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Thanks all for the comments/ratings, much appreciated!
 

As Phil cheekily eluded to, the other half has moved in now for a bit and modelling time has been reduced somewhat! Actually that’s not the reason, I’ve been out and about 'spotting' while I can and listing lots of surplus models on eBay, which has taken away most of the modelling time. I’ve been plodding on however....

 

So, in terms of the Meridian, I’m now happy with the cab and fairings (FINALLY!), so I’ve now got to start casting them. The cab might actually be easier to cast than the fairings, I’ll have to experiment. Below are some photos last time I put the bits together. The cab had some more fine sanding and last coat of primer after this:

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The fairings looked good until I discovered a small hole, which is where I’d sanded too much material off and gone through the other side! This was present on both, so a small plastic blank was glued behind and then the hole filled, sanded and primed once more. I’ll go into more detail about the other things I’ve done on the fairings when I cast them:

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One question I have about casting (Mick/James?) is can you pour rubber cast solution over an already-cured mould, and will these separate without issue? I ask as both cab and fairings will have to be 2 part moulds, so I was going to add plastic sheet to blank one half off, pour the first half, remove plastic blanks and simply pour second half over the first and the master - which seems too easy to be true.

 

On the signals front, I’ve wired them all up now but it’s not exciting, simply some 2 and 3-way plugs soldered to the wire ends, with a resistor on the common negative as only 1 aspect will be lit at once - the signal-mounted PL has a separate resistor to its main aspect. The last 3-aspect signal arrived from CR Signals and was reduced in height by twisting the base until the glue broke then sliding it up the post - complex engineering! The ladder was removed, tidied up and cut down then re-attached, with an anti-climb board added from thin styrene sheet as it’ll be going at the end of a platform. Halfords grey primer was sprayed over the whole signal bar the main aspect face and lenses, and a no climb sign was added that was printed from a picture I had in my collection: I knew it’d be useful some day!

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Then I took (another) backwards step, and found I had a short on my post-mounted PL. It transpired that the enamel wires had lost their enamel after rubbing on the inside of the brass rod, so I had to pull the whole lot apart, de-solder the wires and make a new base and pole from scratch as I broke the old one! At least the whole head was salvaged. A small piece of cable insulation was placed around the wires and inside the tube as shown below, and was then sealed up properly with heat shrink and hot glue, as were the rest of the signals to prevent any movement:

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This has been sprayed then the SPT and ID plate will be re-affixed and all signals are done :danced: just need to wire them to the board now, but I’ll detail this in the Fordley thread.

 

The final (for now...) project on the go is the container rake. Compare the next picture with the last post and I think the filling and sanding was worth it. New buffers were built from styrene tube and sheet...the larger diameter is actually a roll of paper, cut to the correct width then glued at one end, rolled around until the desired(ish!) diameter is reached then glued at the end. I find it far easier than drilling another tube:

6B33B74A-438C-4F08-90A8-723D8E80490F.jpeg.40da05c5a93f25fcedfb6dd5c88add5d.jpeg
 

These were painted with a mix of frame dirt and Freightliner green, but once dried (below photo is when wet) it dried a bit too green, but nay bother I’ll just weather it down a bit more. The cracks in the deck and another couple of rough areas were also painted:

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Final weathering and details to be picked out then they’ll be done.

 

I started the next wagon too, which I was keen to do. The Dapol KTA/KQA model is of a unique prototype which can often be seen running in Freightliner rakes (saw half a dozen today on their way from Leeds to Southampton), but Dapol’s model is lack lustre in some places. I also (annoyingly) noticed the bogies looked out of place compared to the real thing, and when I looked they’re actually the wrong type. Giveaway for me was the lack of any brake shoes or cross-members on the ends of the model. But I’ve decided it’d be too much work, though I’ll most certainly end up doing it.... :rolleyes:

 

To begin, I decided my prototype would be this graffitied example:

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I ordered a couple of things off eBay for the project which are on their way, so I set about the graffiti. Humbrol 64 matt grey was painted first, after the outline was drawn on in pencil. This is a rough first go as the outline is white/black so I can refine with later colours:

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It certainly makes it more interesting! Other improvements will include replacement brass handbrake wheels, new scale buffers and maybe new bogies. There weren’t any handbrake wheels when I got it from Hattons' pre-owned for less than £30, which I thought was a lot but I couldn’t find any others despite wanting a couple. It turns out one sold for £45 the other day, so I doubt I’ll be getting another soon...the RevolutioN FWA twin and C=Rail FSA set are also future contenders for additions to my Freightliner 20'/40' container rake. The whole rake and containers will be weathered properly once these wagons are finished.

 

More soon if I remember! Stay safe and I hope you’re all well :good:

 

Thanks,

Jack.

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