O Gauge from a standing start

[Gareth001]

A quick view of the inset track area, showing the distressed and missing setts...

[BG John]

I've been given enough old copper clad track for my planned layout. It needs rebuilding, but it would make the job easier if I didn't need to worry about electricity getting anywhere near it. I like the idea of a charging point in the fiddle yard. I'll probably use cassettes, with separate ones for locos that perhaps could have power for charging available.

[Gareth001]

I suppose the easy way round it would be to have another switch installed which isolated one side of the pickups...a usually open reed switch, perhaps, so that the charging circuit only worked when adjacent to the magnet by the live rails. It would make building copper clad track a lot easier.....the slot in the middle is always a bit of a spoiler. I used C&L track parts, so no problems as long as I don't short anything out.

[BG John]

I suppose the easy way round it would be to have another switch installed which isolated one side of the pickups...a usually open reed switch, perhaps, so that the charging circuit only worked when adjacent to the magnet by the live rails. It would make building copper clad track a lot easier.....the slot in the middle is always a bit of a spoiler. I used C&L track parts, so no problems as long as I don't short anything out.

That could be a straightforward way to do it. I could make a charging point where the loco cassette would be placed for charging, and keep the whole layout dead. I'll be ballasting over the sleepers (an advantage of modelling the early 1900s!), so am quite happy with rough looking track, as long as it works well, and the rail heads look OK.

 

The downside could be uncoupling magnets operating the reed switch though.

Edited November 22, 2016 by BG John

[raymw]

If you want to charge the battery via the wheels, then a couple of diodes would prevent the battery feeding back to the track. I'm guessing the charging voltage will be below the maximum battery voltage (to prevent overcharging/damage) then I do not think any switch would be required to disconnect the controller. If you need a switch, then use a relay operated by the same current that charges the battery - diodes required to prevent battery holding on relay. I think the charging track could be kept energised, just drive in the loco to charge battery, and drive it out again when you want. Some time in the past, I'd thought of charging via the buffers, but I think track/other method would be more flexible.

[BG John]

Looks like I'll have to do some research, and experimenting if I go ahead with it. I also have an idea for the station pilot/shunter on a future 4mm DC layout being RC. It would be much cheaper and easier than making the lot DCC.

[Gareth001]

Here's a short video of radio control in action. Sorry if it's a bit wobbly at the end. I was trying to video and control at the same time, and I'm not much of a photographer. But hopefully it shows the controllability. Much credit must of course go to Ixion for the smooth running HC in the first place.

 

I don't like the name painted on the warehouse....the font looks too modern, so that'll have to be changed.

 

Edited November 24, 2016 by Gareth001

[Gareth001]

Here's a view of the batteries and receiver unit inside the saddle tank of the HC. The receiver is between the batteries: you can just see the aerial between them.

[81A Oldoak]

Here's a view of the batteries and receiver unit inside the saddle tank of the HC. The receiver is between the batteries: you can just see the aerial between them.

Gareth,

Very impressed that you can get all of the kit under the tank. Our Fowler would be a problem.

 

Chris,

[Gareth001]

Thanks Chris...it runs beautifully. Do you by any chance have a picture of the Minerva Peckett with her clothes off? I'd love to have a go at one.....

[81A Oldoak]

Thanks Chris...it runs beautifully. Do you by any chance have a picture of the Minerva Peckett with her clothes off? I'd love to have a go at one.....

Et voila!

[Gareth001]

Thanks Chris...that's very useful. I'm now wondering if I took out the pcb and cut away the cradle, I could fit a receiver and some batteries in.......sorely tempted!!

[81A Oldoak]

The area under the pcb cradle is empty and is where I usually stow the DCC decoder. The smokebox is also empty.

 

Regards,

 

Chris

[Gareth001]

Well that's the wife's Christmas present sorted then.

[Fastdax]

... and you'll get a new set of saucepans and a handbag ;-)

[Barnaby]

Does anyone know if this layout topic has finished, it looks like it has just stopped mid-build?

 

Checking Gareth's name it says he was last active 21/11/17 but does not show any recent posts.

 

Best

[Gareth001]

It's frightening to realise that a YEAR has gone past since I last posted....must try harder! Life keeps getting in the way. Thanks to Barnaby for his concern!!!!!

 

However, I have done a few bits here and there, and am inspired to press on. I've been replacing my 3 link couplings with Dinghams, which, having tried most alternatives, I reckon are about the best compromise. Jury's out on which electromagnet to use though.....I have bought a couple of SMP point motors with a view to cutting them in half and making a core from a nail...watch this space.

 

Ballasting has begun, and points now work via Fulgurex slow action motors, which I'll have to change, because they're so noisy! The lights on the big warehouse now work too.

 

Here's a quick pic of the stencilled sign on the aforementioned warehouse, duly scrubbed back with a fibreglass brush, and the little crane which still needs a bit of greasing up.

Edited January 4, 2018 by Gareth001

[Gareth001]

I've got quite interested in the fibreglass brush as a weathering tool....here's a pic of the salt wagon suitably distressed.....pending a bit of grease on the underframe and a matt varnish.

[Tricky]

It is a bit confusing, and it took me a while to get my head around it.

 

I used a Deltang TX20 transmitter which I built up from a kit (nice and neat, but instructions a bit woolly for a novice) I got some help here https://riksrailway.blogspot.co.uk/2015/09/how-i-constructed-deltang-tx20.html where Rik has generously detailed his build...much better that the instructions, so thanks Rik. I used a Rx-60 receiver, which is tiny, and 2 x 3.7v LiPo batteries which I wired in series to give 7.4 volts. This is ample for my shunting layout: with the current gearing on the Ixion HC I can get a heady 15mph, and having recently driven a full size steam loco (thanks kids!) which I've been waiting to do for 50 years, I can confirm it's plenty fast enough! .

 

I also bought a GT-Power charger. I got all this from Micron Radio Control http://www.micronradiocontrol.co.uk/ and I found the proprietor Andy very helpful. Like anything it's simple when you know how, but I couldn't find an idiot's guide anywhere, and figured it out little by little. If I can help at all, do let me know. All I can say is it's head and shoulders above anything else I've seen or used. I'll never go back. Gaugemaster Combi for sale.

 

I wired the pickups directly to the batteries, which means the rails are live, but powered from the loco. Probably best to avoid any shorts! I installed a switch to isolate the control board (I put it in the speaker recess under the loco, and it can be switched without taking the loco off the track. So: flip the switch, attach the charger to the rails and off you go. 

 

Watching a careworn saddletank crawling over rusty rails is vindication enough!!

 Hi Gareth,

 

Just found this thread and very impressed with what you've done. Particularly with RC. I played with this last year and ended up throwing it all in the bin after I fried the board...! Tempted, however, to have another try having read this. Slow running is imperative for my shunting cameo 'Midland in Bristol'.

 

Richard

[Gareth001]

Hi Richard.....I'd encourage you to have another go. The results are well worth it....the thought of never having a loco stick on pointwork again is enough incentive on it's own! I'm totally convinced it's the way forward, and, as I may have said before, the first manufacturer that releases a ready to run, reliable and affordable solution will clean up. Good luck....let me know how you get on.

[Gareth001]

So, with a bout of enthusiasm coupled with a quiet day in the office, I decided to tackle a job I have, if I'm honest, been putting off. At the very start of this thread I did say...."If I can a.) build a wagon kit and make a decent job of it (not too challenging), b.) build a point from a kit that actually works (slightly harder) and c.) scratchbuild a building to a decent standard (might be an issue) then I'll get on and tackle the rest of it". That was an embarrassingly long time ago....and I haven't finished the building yet!!!

 

In my defence, I did, perhaps rather ambitiously, choose a rather difficult place to start: a 3 foot long wedge shaped northlight warehouse. Still no excuse for taking nearly 4 years. Anyway, one of the reasons I've procrastinated so long is how to portray roof slates....I've settled on 5 thou plasticard strips, cut on a silhouette cnc cutter, solvent welded onto a second sheet of plasticard in turn stuck to a roof panel of 3mm hardboard. Note....MekPak is a bit too vicious for 5 thou sheet, and distorted it a bit, but Humbrol Liquid Poly seems ok. Here's the first panel before and after painting, and balanced in place. It was actually a lot quicker to do than I thought.

Edited January 5, 2018 by Gareth001

[malcs]

It is a bit confusing, and it took me a while to get my head around it.

 

I used a Deltang TX20 transmitter which I built up from a kit (nice and neat, but instructions a bit woolly for a novice) I got some help here https://riksrailway.blogspot.co.uk/2015/09/how-i-constructed-deltang-tx20.html where Rik has generously detailed his build...much better that the instructions, so thanks Rik. I used a Rx-60 receiver, which is tiny, and 2 x 3.7v LiPo batteries which I wired in series to give 7.4 volts. This is ample for my shunting layout: with the current gearing on the Ixion HC I can get a heady 15mph, and having recently driven a full size steam loco (thanks kids!) which I've been waiting to do for 50 years, I can confirm it's plenty fast enough! .

 

I also bought a GT-Power charger. I got all this from Micron Radio Control http://www.micronradiocontrol.co.uk/ and I found the proprietor Andy very helpful. Like anything it's simple when you know how, but I couldn't find an idiot's guide anywhere, and figured it out little by little. If I can help at all, do let me know. All I can say is it's head and shoulders above anything else I've seen or used. I'll never go back. Gaugemaster Combi for sale.

 

I wired the pickups directly to the batteries, which means the rails are live, but powered from the loco. Probably best to avoid any shorts! I installed a switch to isolate the control board (I put it in the speaker recess under the loco, and it can be switched without taking the loco off the track. So: flip the switch, attach the charger to the rails and off you go. 

 

Watching a careworn saddletank crawling over rusty rails is vindication enough!!

Though I have come to this late this and the article in the O gauge gazette has given me enough info to look in to radio control myself, and I like the idea of building some of the kit myself.

[81A Oldoak]

Though I have come to this late this and the article in the O gauge gazette has given me enough info to look in to radio control myself, and I like the idea of building some of the kit myself.

I am trialling the Protocab WiFi control system in a Minerva 57XX 0-6-0PT. I am impressed so far. More info on my Cwm Bach forum.

[Gareth001]

Sloooowwww progress on the warehouse roof, but I'm getting there....I'm quite pleased with the effect of the wedge shaped building, and the traverser slides underneath it, hiding the fiddle yard pretty well. I wanted to avoid the really low relief sometimes used in this area.

Edited March 12, 2018 by Gareth001

[Gareth001]

One of the reasons I've been dragging my heels on the roof is that I've got quite involved in exploring the capabilities of CNC cutting on styrene sheet. Having made windows, doors and some small outbuildings, I thought I'd have a go at some rolling stock. I chose quite an obscure prototype: a 4 wheel coach made for the Rother Valley Railway by Hurst Nelson & Co in 1900. A suitable prototype, because not only would it not look out of place in any light railway setting, but also had flat sides and ends, making construction easier.

 

Here's some pictures of how far I've got I cast the underframe in resin, and I'll have to do the same for the axleboxes and springs, because I can't find any 5' springs available anywhere. I'm getting quite into casting!

 

Once I've finished all the drawings, and made all the patterns I need for casting, it occurs to me it would make quite a nice sort of "scratch aid" kit which I could make available if there was any interest. I'll see how the prototype comes out.

Edited March 12, 2018 by Gareth001