Simond Posted December 25, 2020 Share Posted December 25, 2020 John Merry Christmas & a Happy New Year Simon 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Killybegs Posted January 5, 2021 Author Popular Post Share Posted January 5, 2021 There's been quite a lot of progress since my last posting! 25 14 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Holt Posted January 5, 2021 Share Posted January 5, 2021 John, Looks very nice indeed - for a Western engine. Dave. 1 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bgman Posted January 5, 2021 Share Posted January 5, 2021 3 hours ago, Killybegs said: There's been quite a lot of progress since my last posting! I appreciated just how much work goes into making, then converting the 7mm version John so I take my hat off to your skills with the 4mm loco in original form. G 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Killybegs Posted January 10, 2021 Author Popular Post Share Posted January 10, 2021 Few more bits and pieces added. Steps, injectors, AWS and sand boxes. I should have fitted the sand boxes before I plumbed in the injectors, the pipework had to come off to fit some brackets to carry the sandboxes. Once this rather fiddly fabrication and fitting was complete, the plumbing went back on before the sandboxes themselves could be fitted as the pipework passes behind them. The sand boxes themselves were knocked up in styrene as those provided with the kit were of the wrong type being more suitable for a pannier tank. 16 14 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Killybegs Posted January 11, 2021 Author Popular Post Share Posted January 11, 2021 I have now fitted the laminated overlays to the frames. These comprise a layer of 0.5mm styrene between the frames and the etched overlays. Both layers are secured with Sellotape double sided tape. This was chosen after testing several brands over the last three months. It is easy to fix and can be trimmed to shape before removing the protective tape leaving just a film of adhesive. The reason for doing this was to increase the overall width across the frames from 15mm to 16.25mm, which is closer to the prototype while still allowing sufficient lateral movement on the centre axle. 21 2 2 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Holt Posted January 11, 2021 Share Posted January 11, 2021 Neat idea, there, John. It will look far better with the wheels closer to the frames. I take it the plastic card sand boxes are fixed to the body rather than the chassis? Dave. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Killybegs Posted January 11, 2021 Author Share Posted January 11, 2021 That's correct Dave, they are hung off the underside of the footplate. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Killybegs Posted January 13, 2021 Author Popular Post Share Posted January 13, 2021 Having soldered up the brake assembly and fitted the AWS pick up, building work on 5514 is now complete. ...and back in its component parts ready for the paint shop. 30 9 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bike2steam Posted January 13, 2021 Share Posted January 13, 2021 Mmm, bare brass, looks too good to paint!!?? 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Enterprisingwestern Posted January 13, 2021 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 13, 2021 1 hour ago, bike2steam said: Mmm, bare brass, looks too good to paint!!?? I sometimes think the flat etch looks more impressive than the completed model, especially in my hands. Mike. 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Killybegs Posted January 30, 2021 Author Popular Post Share Posted January 30, 2021 (edited) As it was sunny yesterday morning with very little wind, I took 5514 outside for a few progress shots. Since then I have fitted the buffers and finished the weathering. Now I need to put in the glazing and paint and fit the crew so that the roof can be fixed in place. Then it's just coal to go into the bunker and couplings to be fitted. Since taking the pics I noticed that the body was not sitting down on the chassis at the front. That's why you can see the support for the motion bracket which should be hidden by the valance. This was caused by a clash between pcb strips for the pickups and the boiler support bracket on the body. A couple of minutes with the file cured this. Edited January 30, 2021 by Killybegs additional text 33 1 19 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Killybegs Posted February 2, 2021 Author Popular Post Share Posted February 2, 2021 5514 is now finished. Running tests were successful and she has now joined the loco roster on Worseter. 33 9 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Killybegs Posted February 5, 2021 Author Popular Post Share Posted February 5, 2021 With the 4575 out of the way, I have started work on the next project, a Martin Finney ex GWR 2-8-0. My chosen prototype ran with one of the less common GWR tenders, a Churchward 3,500 gallon with scalloped side frames. The first job was, therefore, to modify the frames in the kit accordingly. The tender also had different brake hangers and springs to those provided in the kit but a trawl through my spares box produced the necessary items. Here we have one original and one modified frame. 20 1 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Killybegs Posted February 18, 2021 Author Popular Post Share Posted February 18, 2021 More progress has been made on the tender for 2822. The basic chassis and body shell have been completed but still a lot of work to do. I am building it pretty much as per the instructions although I have soldered the buffer beams to the chassis rather than the body. I soldered a brass angle section to the 'floor' of the chassis to support the rear buffer beam to help take the load on the rear coupling as 2822 will be used on long coal trains. Didn't get that strapping to the coal plates as neat as I should have! 20 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Holt Posted February 18, 2021 Share Posted February 18, 2021 John. What suspension arrangements have you got on this tender? The front and middle axle bearing are in slots but both sitting very near the top. Regarding the coal-space strapping, now you've remarked on it, it will eat away at you, so you'll have to do something - even if it's just cover them with a full coal load! Looking good, otherwise. Dave. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Killybegs Posted February 18, 2021 Author Share Posted February 18, 2021 Hi Dave. It has a compensation beam bearing on the front and middle axles, all part of the kit. The chassis is sitting level, so everything is working OK. I suppose I could have opened the front one up a bit but as it's probably only ever going to run on Worseter, I think approx 0.5mm of upward travel is sufficient. I have sent it whizzing through a series of turnouts and slips in the fiddle yard which it negotiated very smoothly. The loco will use CSB's. With regard to the strapping, the 2 offending items will be hidden by the fire iron tray so they will be left as I would undoubtedly end up doing more damage tweaking them! 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Killybegs Posted February 24, 2021 Author Popular Post Share Posted February 24, 2021 The tender is finished at last apart from the screw link coupling which will go on once it is painted and the front buffers which I will leave until ihave pared it up with the loco. The astute observer may notice that the links to the brake pull rods are upside down. I think putting them right would be more trouble than they're worth as they will be pretty much hidden at the end of the day. 20 11 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Enterprisingwestern Posted February 25, 2021 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 25, 2021 12 hours ago, Killybegs said: The astute observer may notice that the links to the brake pull rods are upside down. , or those of us that wouldn't have a clue but admire the excellent modelling! Mike. 4 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bogusman Posted February 25, 2021 Share Posted February 25, 2021 You're right you don't see much once the loco's attached 12 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Enterprisingwestern Posted February 25, 2021 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 25, 2021 3 hours ago, Bogusman said: You're right you don't see much once the loco's attached Thanks for the clarification, I didn't even know where I was supposed to be looking! Mike. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Killybegs Posted March 5, 2021 Author Share Posted March 5, 2021 I've made a start on the loco. As it's going to have csb suspension, I need to know how much it will weigh at the end of the day, so I have been messing around with bits of lead. There's not a lot of room in the 28 but I think I can add about 160gm of lead to the estimated weight of the kit giving a total of 300gm. Not as much as I would like but it will have to do. Next up were the coupling rods. These have pinned joints using 1.0mm dia n/s rod. The holes for the crankpins were drilled out slightly undersize then opened up with a broach once the two halves had been soldered together. The holes for the pins needed a little light work with a broach. To prevent everything getting soldered up solid, I use very thin tissue paper to separate the parts before loading them onto the 1.0mm bar clamped vertically in the vice. The tissue paper is then soaked in clock oil before a mix of solder paste and Powerflow fux is placed carefully around the joint. A quick dab with the RSU probe and there you are. The other 'end' of the RSU has a crocodile clip which is clipped onto the vice. The excess of wire is cut off and the back of the joint soldered smooth. Once out of the vice, the other end is similarly treated but left slightly proud of the coupling rod. Next on the list will be drilling the hornblocks for the handrail knobs that will be hung on the csb. When I loaded the 8 hornblocks onto a length of 1/8" rod in preparation for making a jig, I noticed that there was quite a range of thicknesses. I got out my supply of High Level hornblocks and made up a set of 8 that were all within a 0.1mm range. 11 1 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Siberian Snooper Posted March 5, 2021 RMweb Premium Share Posted March 5, 2021 You could add a little more weight at the back end by having a whitemetal loco crew. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted March 5, 2021 Share Posted March 5, 2021 (edited) John, I’m not sure it’s much help, but my 7mm 28xx scales in at a kilo for the loco, which would be around 186g in 4mm if my sums are right. She’ll pull a reasonable, if unusual train. Video in link below. atb Simon Edited March 5, 2021 by Simond Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Holt Posted March 5, 2021 Share Posted March 5, 2021 John, On some recent models, I've tried oiling the paper barrier, as you describe - I use cigarette paper - but found the oil must have wicked into the joint and I just couldn't get the solder to take. As a result, I've reverted to using the paper dry but with the part not being soldered chemically blackened. So far, so good. Dave. 2 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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