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How about a pic of your 08 on Church Norton then Martyn :yes:

Hi John,

 

The one I have on order is one of the " Green Meanies " so it is probably sailing across the South China Sea as we speak, a couple more weeks yet I would think.

 

Martyn.

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Hi Guys,

 

I need some safety railings for my goods platform so I thought I would make some up out of some brass tube and wire I have knocking around.

 

Also my good friend " Grasshopper John " has just brought the same mini pillar drill/ milling machine that I have, so I thought I would show him what it is capable of.

 

The brass tube has an o/d of 1.2mm and the wire is 0.7mm, the drill bit I used is 0.75mm, so the tolerances are quite fine for drilling a hole through the tube.

 

post-7101-0-45361600-1480256909_thumb.jpg

 

post-7101-0-00651100-1480256931_thumb.jpg

 

Just the one drill bit was used, no breakages.

 

Martyn.

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My green meanie finally arrived today, I haven't taken it out of the wrapping yet but it does look the biz. I chose an un-numbered one and I still need to do some research before I decide on a location and number.

 

Edited by 3 link, Today, 17:11 post-7101-0-78214300-1480785261_thumb.jpg

 

Martyn.

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Nice bit of work on the drilling too, Martyn

Presume you made a jig of some sort?

Best

Simon

Hello Simon,

 

I have just copied and pasted a post I had written from over there, so hopefully this explains the procedure.

 

 

The tube was held in a very basic vice that I have been meaning to replace for quite a while now, but it does the job see photo. The drill bit needs to be new and I find that if you feed the bit down slowly with minimal pressure the bit does not wander on the curved surface. The speed was around 6,000 rpm which is slow for this machine as it has a range from 5,000 up to 20,000 rpm. I used the X-Y table for the spacing of the holes, the table has zero adjustable scales with 1 revolution = 1mm, or 1 division = 0.05mm. The main problem is lining the work up by eye in the first place, hence the use of my late Grandmothers magnifying glass ( bless her ).

 

Cheers,

 

Martyn.post-7101-0-89893700-1480789216_thumb.jpg

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Thanks a Martyn, that works better. It's the Proxxon. I bought the little pillar drill, and subsequently bought the x-y table, but I decided I didn't like it, so it's sitting in a shelf. The drill gets used lots, excellent little machine, but I wish I'd bought the miller. I also have one of their handheld power tools, with the flexi-drive, which is dead easy to fit & remove. All in all, I reckon the Proxxon stuff it pretty good value.

 

Best

Simon

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Thanks a Martyn, that works better. It's the Proxxon. I bought the little pillar drill, and subsequently bought the x-y table, but I decided I didn't like it, so it's sitting in a shelf. The drill gets used lots, excellent little machine, but I wish I'd bought the miller. I also have one of their handheld power tools, with the flexi-drive, which is dead easy to fit & remove. All in all, I reckon the Proxxon stuff it pretty good value.

Best

Simon

I agree, I have had mine for around 15 yrs now without problem, I actually managed to cut some new frames out of some n/silver sheet for an old Oakville WD 2-8-0. I had just finished the build ( not an easy task ) and the loco was ready for some primer, when the cat decided to rub up against it and knocked it on the floor! I could of cried, it landed on the carpet but it was enough to twist the frames, but all was well in the end thanks to the little miller.

 

Some folk think they are a bit " toy like " , but it gives me the accuracy I'm after in 7mm, I mean we are not talking heavy engineering are we.... : )

 

ATB,

 

Martyn.

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Guest Isambarduk

"Some folk think they are a bit " toy like " , but it gives me the accuracy I'm after in 7mm, I mean we are not talking heavy engineering are we.... : )"

I concur 100%, Martyn. 

 

Model engineers 'love to hate' these small machines but they are ideal for the job that we do.  They are small enough to give plenty of 'feel' when using small drills and cutters whereas on larger machines this is lost in our size.  Also, being no bigger than a sewing machine, they do not look out of place in the house so you may 'stay at home' whilst using them; since we moved they are not now, but I had my Unimat 3 miller and Unimat 3 lathe in my workshop in the house for nearly thirty years.  Along with my small (variable) high speed pillar drill, these machines are fine for about 95% of my work in 0 gauge and the other 5% is making jigs and fixtures, which I could do on the smaller machines, it would just take longer.
 
For anybody toying with the idea of buying (or borrowing) a small machine tool to be able to make things exactly as you'd like them, I would strongly encourage you to have a go; it is hard to put into words the freedom it brings, along with an additional aspect to the hobby.
 
David



UnimatLathe.jpg

 
Unimat-Miller.jpg

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I've got the heavy engineering capability, we have a Bridgeport at work, and I've a Dore Westbury in the garage, but having a little machine in the warm (my "small" workbench is in the lounge) is rather attractive. I have a Unimat lathe for this, the big one (3.5" Smallpiece) is in the garage and we've a monster at work.

 

It's generally ok, as long as I tidy up continuously, and don't make teeth-on-edge noises during certain TV programs...

 

I've seen a couple of projects to convert the Proxxon miller to full NC control. Tempting. But I need to sort my laser out first (that's in the garage) as it doesn't quite work properly. Assuming I go ahead with that, I'll then know enough to do the miller!

 

Best

Simon

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I have the Axminster SC2 Mini lathe and the SX2 Mill. Obviously not huge machines  but they do everything I need, especially for aero modelling use. They are in my garage, but tempted to get the Proxxon MF70, like Simond, for my indoor workshop.

 

Regards, Deano.

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Looking at the quartering on that 08 I have just acquired, my next purchase will be a wheel puller, unless David ( Isambarduk ) has thought of an alternative method.

 

Martyn.

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Guest Isambarduk

"... unless David ( Isambarduk ) has thought of an alternative method."

 

Well, I haven't yet looked at working on this loco, Martyn, but I have modified a G-clamp that I use to pull wheels and gears.  Failing that, I would set up the wheels in some parallels in the machine vice and then press the wheels off in the drill press.

 

David

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"... unless David ( Isambarduk ) has thought of an alternative method."

 

Well, I haven't yet looked at working on this loco, Martyn, but I have modified a G-clamp that I use to pull wheels and gears. Failing that, I would set up the wheels in some parallels in the machine vice and then press the wheels off in the drill press.

 

David

Evening David,

 

I was just thinking, I would only need to take off the cranks to correctly quarter the wheels/rods. So at the same time I will remove those ghastly brass spacers and install the speedo drive, and cut the axles back in length. The only thing that concerned me was I noticed this chap that goes by GWC1 then Loctited the axles to the cranks with 601, I have used 601 before and it isn't very forgiving and becomes very permanent. I admire his courage in being one of the first to take the 08 apart, still there's no hurry and it proves it can be done.

 

Martyn.

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Permanent up to a point.

 

Unfortunately, I suspect the point would be a melting point, or at least a temperature that would cause damage to anything plastic in the vicinity. I've successfully unstuck assemblies made with 601, by use of the big propane torch, but this isn't going to end well with a Dapol gronk...

 

(You may very well ask why I needed to, but it was many years ago & I honestly can't recall, but I learned the lesson...)

 

Best

Simon

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Permanent up to a point.

Unfortunately, I suspect the point would be a melting point, or at least a temperature that would cause damage to anything plastic in the vicinity. I've successfully unstuck assemblies made with 601, by use of the big propane torch, but this isn't going to end well with a Dapol gronk...

(You may very well ask why I needed to, but it was many years ago & I honestly can't recall, but I learned the lesson...)

Best

Simon

Morning Simon,

 

I agree, I wouldn't want to risk a propane torch anywhere near the gronk. You might be able to get a more " direct heat " using an RSU straight on to the axle but that would still be a last resort. You cannot rush quartering the wheels so I would rather use a slower curing araldite or similar.

 

I know I have been endorsing how marvellous my Proxxon MF70 is and it maybe possible to drill and pin the axles/cranks, but that method would also be a last resort as I'm not that brave ( well not at this time of day anyway! ).

 

ATB,

 

Martyn.

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Guest Isambarduk

For securing the cranks, I would be inclined to try 'Purple' low strength 222 Loctite in the first instance. If it should let go, I would clean up and try 'Blue' semi-permanent 242  Loctite. Both of these are really designed for locking threads but they may be removed without the application of heat.  If both of these should let go you can always adopt Plan C ... whatever that is.   David

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For securing the cranks, I would be inclined to try 'Purple' low strength 222 Loctite in the first instance. If it should let go, I would clean up and try 'Blue' semi-permanent 242  Loctite. Both of these are really designed for locking threads but they may be removed without the application of heat.  If both of these should let go you can always adopt Plan C ... whatever that is.   David

Thank you David, I didn't even know about the " purple 222 Loctite " have you used this and if so how long does it take to cure?

 

Regards

 

Martyn.

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Evening David,

 

Thanks for the info I will pop down to Squires as I see they stock all the Loctite range, but before I get started on the 08, I must finish off the goods yard platform and the goods shed itself first.

 

I now discipline myself not to start another job until the present one is completed, and this does seem to help get things done and also keeps the mojo flowing.

 

Martyn.

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