RMweb Gold martin_wynne Posted February 2, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 2, 2017 Now come on your not the new boy at the back of the class, get your check rails into some sort of order and get two of them into some place where they will do some good. It says something for your track building that no stock has gone wrong road without them. It's that template which is deficient in check rails. It has been mentioned on RMweb a few times. Martin. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
3 link Posted February 2, 2017 Author Share Posted February 2, 2017 Now come on your not the new boy at the back of the class, get your check rails into some sort of order and get two of them into some place where they will do some good. It says something for your track building that no stock has gone wrong road without them. OzzyO. Well knock me down with a feather, your right ( as usual ), do you know I had some sort of nagging feeling that something wasn't quite right, cheers I will get that sorted tonight. It's that template which is deficient in check rails. It has been mentioned on RMweb a few times. Martin. Hi Martin, I wished I had seen the the posts in question, it will teach me to rely on templates, mind you yours have never let me down : ) You don't happen to remember where the posts are regarding the said template? ATB, Martyn. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold martin_wynne Posted February 2, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 2, 2017 You don't happen to remember where the posts are regarding the said template? Hi Martyn, Sorry, I tried to find them, but unfortunately RMweb's poor search function, combined with my failing memory, failed to deliver. It may possibly have been on Old RMweb: http://rmweb.co.uk/forum/ regards, Martin. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted February 2, 2017 Share Posted February 2, 2017 Hello Martyn, you may also want to check out the two check rails at top left and top right so that they cover both of the vees on the straight roads. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
3 link Posted February 2, 2017 Author Share Posted February 2, 2017 Hello Martyn, you may also want to check out the two check rails at top left and top right so that they cover both of the vees on the straight roads. OzzyO. Hello Matey, Yes I will extend those two checkrails to incorporate both vees and then bring the other two offending check rails further along to be inline with the correct vees. ATB, Martyn. PS, at least all the fishplates are the right way round, once bitten twice shy ☺️ 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
3 link Posted February 3, 2017 Author Share Posted February 3, 2017 The local P/way have now rectified their mistake, Regards, Martyn. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted February 3, 2017 Share Posted February 3, 2017 Very tidy! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold MarshLane Posted February 3, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 3, 2017 Hi Martyn, Wow! Where is the stunning button! Rich Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper John Posted February 7, 2017 Share Posted February 7, 2017 I asked Andy why we couldn't rate this and other topics in 7mm + modeling it was just an oversight Andy sorted it in minuets. May I be the first to rate this excellent Topic, Well deserved Martyn. Grasshopper Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted February 7, 2017 Share Posted February 7, 2017 Number two vote posted. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HeavyDuty Posted February 7, 2017 Share Posted February 7, 2017 I asked Andy why we couldn't rate this and other topics in 7mm + modeling it was just an oversight Andy sorted it in minuets. May I be the first to rate this excellent Topic, Well deserved Martyn. Grasshopper I assumed it was because 7mm was recognised to be superior to all others, thus being able to rate topics was superfluous. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deano747 Posted February 7, 2017 Share Posted February 7, 2017 Number two vote posted. ....and another added! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
3 link Posted February 8, 2017 Author Share Posted February 8, 2017 Well thank you guys for the votes, how many do I need for a Blue Peter badge : ) Martyn. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted February 9, 2017 Share Posted February 9, 2017 I can still hear John Noakes saying that... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
81A Oldoak Posted February 9, 2017 Share Posted February 9, 2017 Well thank you guys for the votes, how many do I need for a Blue Peter badge : ) Martyn. Sadly, I have lost my Blue Peter badge and I can't remember what my suggestion was. 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper John Posted February 9, 2017 Share Posted February 9, 2017 Well thank you guys for the votes, how many do I need for a Blue Peter badge : ) Martyn You just concentrate on track laying rather than collecting badges 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted February 9, 2017 Share Posted February 9, 2017 Well thank you guys for the votes, how many do I need for a Blue Peter badge : ) Martyn. Two more sleeper that you will lay. OzzyO. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
3 link Posted February 18, 2017 Author Share Posted February 18, 2017 Hi Guys, I also gave in and brought one of these 08 things, I must admit there is something appealing about them, kinda cute in a weird way. Anyhow on inspection my eye was immediately drawn to the horrid brass spacers, some folk might be happy just to blacken them but for me they had to go. On further scrutiny I also noticed the quartering was well out and there was no speedo drive, so hopefully I can correct all 3 things at the same time. There is nothing new with the method I have used to make a puller to remove the cranks, a chap from the Dapol pages started the ball rolling by making use of a section of 22mm copper heating pipe, I started in a similar way but used plain old 13mm cooper tube. Well the cranks seem to be made of a light metal possibly alloy? and the axles are steel which is a good thing because as delicate as I tried to be when pulling the cranks off they did need a certain amount of welly, so much so that it distorted the tube/puller! The first side drifted off quite easily, but the other side for some reason was a nightmare, the captive nut was just pulling out of the solder on the tube under the strain. So I thought I would try some rectangular brass section I had instead of the tube method, well it did the trick and the drive axle crank actually came off with a resounding crack! This job took a lot longer than I anticipated, but I was not going to be beaten, it's family time tomorrow so hopefully I will make a start on the rebuild next week sometime. The pullers.... ATB, Martyn. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tove Posted February 18, 2017 Share Posted February 18, 2017 NIce job on the crank puller Martyn. I`ve got a couple or so of these babies as well...i know, don`t ask.. anyway i was looking at doing the same thing to mine,but as yet had`nt thought of how to do it. So you`ve save me a lot of head scratching and possibly broken parts by posting this!. Ta very much, Brian. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
3 link Posted March 2, 2017 Author Share Posted March 2, 2017 (edited) The speedo drive has been giving me a lot of grief, the speedo drive shaft is slightly lower than the axles so with each revolution the speedo drive arm needs to extend and contract, as well as revolve at the drive shaft end and also at the coupling rod bracket, ( I hope this is making sense ). Below are a couple of photos showing roughly how I got over these problems, it doesn't look great, but once painted and gunged up I am hoping it will pass muster. The rods are now back on and so far so good, the chassis is running smoothly without any binding. Cheers, Martyn. Edited March 2, 2017 by 3 link 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
3 link Posted March 7, 2017 Author Share Posted March 7, 2017 (edited) I have now re-quartered the wheels and with the balance weights roughly where they should of been in the first place, added a speedo drive which turned out to be a right pain but got there in the end. The wheel rims have been blackened to get rid of that shiney un prototypical look and it has just received its first coat of weathering. I was a bit concerned that I might not get the quartering exact, which you need for smooth slow running. But there was and is quite a bit of play in the drivetrain which helps, so she can still crawl along like she was supposed to. Next it's on to the body, I will probably alter the cab door handles first as they are in the wrong position and then finally decide her number as I brought one of the un- numbered ones. Then it's on to weathering the body followed by installing a Zimo chip and speaker. Cheers, Martyn. Edited March 7, 2017 by 3 link 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper John Posted March 8, 2017 Share Posted March 8, 2017 That looks spot on Martyn, you clever B$%&£$D Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HeavyDuty Posted March 8, 2017 Share Posted March 8, 2017 Martyn, I haven't pulled apart either of my 08s yet. Are all axles geared, or are the side rods used to power two? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
3 link Posted March 8, 2017 Author Share Posted March 8, 2017 Hi Ken, No just the one axle is geared to the motor, and the cranks/coupling rods drive the two un-powered axles. I must say that drifting those cranks off the axles was not a walk in the park, I reckon they must have used loctite or something similar as there was an audible " crack " when two of the cranks came off the axle. The Mk 2 version of the puller I made did work better if that is of help to you. HTH, Martyn. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tove Posted March 8, 2017 Share Posted March 8, 2017 That chassis look`s and move`s very nicley Martyn. When you re-fitted the crank`s,was it just a tight push fit,or have you had to use an adhesive or CA to lock them in place?. Brian. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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