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So daifly, in the second post above on the "C" part of the drawings it seems to show a third stretcher in the fourth sleeper spacing. But it also looks like you have to know the length of the blade planing as well.

 

OzzyO. 

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So daifly, in the second post above on the "C" part of the drawings it seems to show a third stretcher in the fourth sleeper spacing. But it also looks like you have to know the length of the blade planing as well.

 

OzzyO. 

 

If I recall correctly that info is available from Templot. 

Dave

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Hello Dave,

 

it's also in your first post above in that points made before 1948 with "c" type plaining may only have two stretcher bars but after 1948 could have three stretcher bars. If  I'm reading the drawings correctly

 

OzzyO.

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Hello Martin,

 

I've just had a look at the post about the "C" switch in Templot but I can't see anything about the spacing for the tie-bars (stretcher bars) if I'm missing it please point (sorry) it out.

 

OzzyO.

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I've just had a look at the post about the "C" switch in Templot but I can't see anything about the spacing for the tie-bars (stretcher bars) if I'm missing it please point (sorry) it out.

 

Sorry, I thought you were asking about the planing length. Templot doesn't contain any information about stretcher bar positions. It's been on my to-do list for years. sad.gif

 

Martin.

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Hello Martin,

 

I've just had a look at the post about the "C" switch in Templot but I can't see anything about the spacing for the tie-bars (stretcher bars) if I'm missing it please point (sorry) it out.

 

OzzyO.

See the attachment to my second post above.

Dave

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Evening Guys,

 

Well I have only just seen the posts above, so it was out with the tape measure and the blade lengths are 155mm ( about 22' ) and the planning length is roughly 70mm ( 10' ).

 

So if I'm reading it rightly if the pointwork was in place before 1948 I can get away with just the two tie bars? I noticed the 30' ones had 5 tie bars !!

 

ATB,

 

Martyn.

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Evening Guys,

 

Well I have only just seen the posts above, so it was out with the tape measure and the blade lengths are 155mm ( about 22' ) and the planning length is roughly 70mm ( 10' ).

 

So if I'm reading it rightly if the pointwork was in place before 1948 I can get away with just the two tie bars? I noticed the 30' ones had 5 tie bars !!

 

ATB,

 

Martyn.

Hello Martyn,

 

that's how I'm reading it, but if it was a 20' point it would have 4.

 

So what is the difference between a 20' point and a "C" type?

 

If my maths is correct adding up the sleeper spacing of the two points is as follows,

 

"C" 29' 3"

 

20' 29' 5.5"

 

ATB

 

OzzyO. 

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Hello Martyn,

 

that's how I'm reading it, but if it was a 20' point it would have 4.

 

So what is the difference between a 20' point and a "C" type?

 

If my maths is correct adding up the sleeper spacing of the two points is as follows,

 

"C" 29' 3"

 

20' 29' 5.5"

 

ATB

 

OzzyO.

 

Hi Paul, Dave,

 

It's a minefield, I thought locos were bad but the P/way is just as bad. I am just waiting for the Father in law to return my book on GWR p/way practices, hopefully it will have some more info on this grey area. At least my fish plates are fitted the right way round, thank you Paul ........

 

Martyn.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • RMweb Gold

Regarding the planning of the switch blades.  On the old straight switches and the semi curved switches used by other railways the planned portion of the switch blades was straight. However the GWR  by grouping adopted fully curved switches where the planned portion was also curved. These were must more difficult to plane but did give increased transition into the diverging route. In model form the extra transition it not necessary but you can achieve something of a curved blade by filing on a surface with a bit of give such as a piece of hardboard cantilevered over the edge of the bench. Although I suspect few would notice if you used a semi curved blade. If you model earlier times plain straight switches would be acceptable especially if the line had been built and then taken over by the GWR. In some backwaters these lasted a very long time.

 

My approach when filing to achieve a straight planed effect is to mark along the blade the appropriate planning length so if the planing angle is 1:24, 1:32 1:40 etc I measure the width of the rail head time the ratio to get the correct angle. Note if your railhead width is not to scale the planing length will also not be to scale or you will have to alter the angle which impacts on the geometry of the turnout.

There is also the issue of the heel of the switch where the blade is held and not able to slide, the clearance between the stock  rail and the blade at the heel is 1.75 inches or 1.02mm in 7mm:1ft this is less than the flangeway of model standards and so either the heel point has to be moved along the closure rail or the angle has to be increased. Those modelling curved switches do not have the same problem as the heel is further out to give sufficient flexibility for the blade to flex.  

 

I also work in 2mm and have a jig from the 2mmScale Association designed by Geoff Jones which can be set for the appropriate switch and then holds the file at the correct angle. Sadly it will not work for 7mm but someone could make one.

 

Don

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Good evening Don,

 

As with most things GWR it is a minefield, and not just the p/way. For filling the switch blades I use one of my jigs that I brought from the S7 store, they are not that adjustable but they do hold the blades at the right angle when filing.

 

As it is I am having to purchase some more tie bars as Mr Eagle eyed OzzyO has pointed out that C and D turnouts had more along the length of the blades ( bless him ).

 

ATB,

 

Martyn.

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Good evening Don,

 

As with most things GWR it is a minefield, and not just the p/way. For filling the switch blades I use one of my jigs that I brought from the S7 store, they are not that adjustable but they do hold the blades at the right angle when filing.

 

As it is I am having to purchase some more tie bars as Mr Eagle eyed OzzyO has pointed out that C and D turnouts had more along the length of the blades ( bless him ).

 

ATB,

 

Martyn.

 

Some of the very long modern ones not only have extra stretcher bars but also extra point motors which do not all fire together so the blades appears to snake over Chris Turnbull spotted one 400ft long  (over 9ft in 7mm!) with 5 power tie bars firing in sequence. Few People model C and D turnouts but these were commonly used for passenger lines. A friend modelling Selby built a D14 because that was what had been used looked great but did use a lot of space.

 

Don

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  • 2 weeks later...

The first piece of greenery has now been installed down on the private sidings, I thought I would try and experiment on that part of the layout as I intend it to look in a state of disrepair.

 

It's nice to put some colour down as the ballast and ash looks very drab on its own. This was the first time of using a ( electronic grass applicator ) for me and I was amazed at how quick you can get a good coverage, I was so amazed that the goods yard looked more like the turf at Wembley! So lesson learned " less is more ". It might sound a bit of a waste but once the glue had dried I literally " plucked " around half of the area back up with a pair of pliers, and that gave me the look I was after in the first place.

 

Now that I have gained a bit of confidence with the applicator, I think I will enjoy this part of the hobby.

 

post-7101-0-94635000-1503913832_thumb.jpg

 

Martyn.

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Hopefully back soon with the photo in the correct orientation, grrrrr. Now sorted, I must remember to keep the iPad with the button on the right when taking photos, dohhh.

 

Martyn.

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Thank you Peter,

 

That's praise indeed, I have been following and enjoying your thread for ages, although I must admit I rarely comment and I should do. So I guess that makes me a lurker, still I've been called worse ha ha....

 

Cheers,

 

Martyn.

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Hi Guys,

 

I have laid a bit more grass tonight, and once it's all dry I will try to increase the height by spraying on a Matt varnish followed by a sprinkling of 6mm straw, so fingers crossed. A couple of photos to get us in the mood for Telford tomorrow, be there or be square : p

 

post-7101-0-08772900-1504297052_thumb.jpg

 

post-7101-0-65582300-1504297070_thumb.jpg

 

post-7101-0-82201200-1504297091_thumb.jpg

 

Martyn.

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