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  • RMweb Gold

Hi again

 

The first loco I detailed was my 47 last year, not the best but it's still one of my favourites, I seen a photo once of them topping the boiler up and the water spilling down the side of a 47 so I've tried to replicate this with a clean patch by the opening as were the water has washed away the dirt. Once again hope you all like the pics and keep the comments coming.

 

Many thanks

 

Paul

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  • RMweb Gold

Once the n gauge 37 is finished I've been thinking of my next project and I came across this, class 37 GFYE but with br double arrows!! Couple if links below but if anyone has any info it's much appreciated.

 

Paul

 

http://m.flickr.com/#/photos/68861278@N03/8270047332/

 

http://m.flickr.com/#/photos/68861278@N03/8267644502/

Edited by PjKing1
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  • RMweb Gold

Hi again Paul,

Some really nice work here

when they actually used the headcodes for their intended purpose

You often saw a clear patch on the yellow, just below the headcode panel

This was particularly evident in Wales, where 37's got filthy on coal and other such duties...

Depot staff used to wash the headcode with a brush and water, so the code could be read by signalmen

So the locos often ended up with a clear streak, just below....

 

Cheers again

Marc

Hi Marc

 

Found a pic of a washed 37 head code, think I've almost got it right

 

Cheers, Paul

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  • RMweb Premium

I'm gradually collecting web images of class 37s from the early to mid 1970s era in advance of weathering my two examples and I noted quite a few with that style of front end dirt, although few are that clearly defined. I'd been thinking that the protruding headcode box was stopping dirty water running down the centre of the front, so rather than having been washed clean, it hadn't got dirty. But I have no solid basis to that theory, which Marc's post disproves!

 

Several Westbury out-based 37s in the early 80's (sadly too late for my period, as they display great weathering!) have a line of clean/faded paintwork down the bodyside beneath the windscreens, at the nose/windscreen 'corner'. It looks like run-off from windscreen cleaning, and would be great to reproduce on a model.  

Ultimately the important thing is to observe and replicate these features. That is what makes a weathered model come alive, just like the water overflow cleaning on the side of your green 47. I'm looking forward to see more! 

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  • RMweb Gold

Thanks Adrian

 

It's the small details like water run off around the windows etc that make all the difference I think (I'll have to check I've done that on all my lot!!).

 

You might find the following link useful, it's certainly have me inspiration for my next 37.

 

http://www.flickr.com/groups/2168551@N22/

 

Thanks for the comments

 

Paul

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  • RMweb Gold

I had a little muck around with an old 37 last night to make a scrap loco, it's by no means finished and the standard is nowhere near good enough for what I wish to show on this thread. The pic below has been touched up but only to darken the background etc. when I'm happy with the finished poor old scrapped crash victim I'll post more. It is basically for me to practice on as I'm hopefully going to weather some old kettles (sorry steam lovers) in a withdrawn rusty state.

 

As always comments welcome good and bad

 

Cheers, Paul

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  • RMweb Gold

I've hit like because it's an interesting modelling job and some nice tones used. Kudos to you for having the cajones to do it!

However, a 37 in that state, nooooooooooo! Difficult to like that haha

jo

It hurt me to to do it as any diesel in this state is just a no no, but it's better than chuckin it in the bin this 37 gave it's life to save others!!!

 

Thanks for lookin though an I'm sorry if it's traumatised you like it did me :(

 

Paul

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  • RMweb Gold

Hi

 

Haven't really had much time on my hands to get much done in the last week, but tonight I managed to get the wheels off the 37 an gave the wheels and pickups a good clean. The wheels were then painted with railmatch frame dirt, and the bogies a coat of weathered black, these were then brushed with black soot weathering powder and a light earth colour. Hopefully I can get more done this week as there is lots to do.

 

The n gauge 37 needs to be finished along with 6 n gauge mk1's which I've promised a friend I'll have ready by the end of the month! I'll post pics of the progress of all as I'm doing them, wish me luck!!

 

Cheers, Paul

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  • RMweb Gold

Cheers Brian

 

Not at the moment, but really don't know how I'm going to detail it and get it looking good (well hopefully) an not put a sound decoder in it, just doesn't seem right! My other 37 has been Biffo'd so might try a howes only because I want a slight variation in the sound, but it'll be hard not getting one off Biff.

 

Paul

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  • RMweb Gold

I've managed to get a bit more done on the 37, the lowered bogies have been reasembled to the chasis, then the handrails have been added to the nose using wire, then I've gave the two nose ends a couple of coats or warning yellow, think they'll need a couple more though. I'm not going into to much detail here as this isn't really weathering, but just wanted to keep you all upto date with the progress. Weathering to start soon, as always some pics below.

 

Cheers, Paul

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  • RMweb Gold

Hi Paul,

 

Them bogies and chassis look the part... right down to the oil streaks down the tank sides!

 

Steve

Cheers Steve

 

Think that's from when I had a little go weathering it when I got it ages ago, I was going to redo the tanks but going by your kind comments I think I'll leave them alone! :)

 

Thanks, Paul

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  • RMweb Gold

Thanks Brian

 

Hopefully today or tomorrow, just hope it looks ok, I've hand painted them rather than use the airbrush (it's being a bit temperamental at the moment) so fingers crossed.

 

Cheers, Paul

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  • RMweb Gold

I managed to give the nose a final coat tonight, I removed the original br sign, which came off quite easily with my finger nail and replaced it with the double arrow, I then removed the masking tape. It's looking ok but nowhere near finished or how I want it. In the pics below I've only plonked the body back on to give you all an idea of how it looks so it should sit a little bit lower as it's not screwed together yet. Next will be to tidy up the nose ends, renumber and then set about the weathering, which is what this thread is all about. Thanks for your patience with my photos of the progress so far and I promise the next post and set of photos will be about making it dirty.

 

Many thanks

 

Paul

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  • RMweb Gold

Right finally got a couple of hours after work so poor old 6826 was no more! First the noses were touched up where needed, then the old numbers removed. I then renumbered it to 6921 (my 37 although being numbered 6921 will probably be different in some way to the proper 6921, I've chose this loco because I've seen a photo of it in br green full yellow ends and double arrows. I know some folk out there will say it didn't have this bit and it had this instead which is great because we all want our models to look as accurately as possible, but for me I simply don't in my opinion have the skills or the goolies to start chopping a fairly decent looking 37 up to add bits. Hopefully one day I will but to me this hobby is about enjoying what I do and I know if I want to make something perfect I mightn't be able to do it and then for me then enjoyment will be lost and replaced with disappointment.) Anyway enough of my ramblings and I don't mean any disrespect to any of the fantastic modellers out there who make great accurate models. (I'm just jealous)

 

So I renumbered it, then using a fibre pen removed any previous weathering on the body sides done a while back, which was just a light coat of frame dirt and the weathering already on when bought. I then wiped it down with a baby wipe then added a grey ash colour powder to the roof then added exhaust black. This was then brushed over the roof and down the sides into the grills etc. once I was happy with that I used a light earth colour and with a large soft brush brushed the entire bodyside bringing the roof dirt into it. This was repeated on the other side then with a baby bud I wiped downwards along the body. It was then given a quick bush again with a mix of both powders, then sealed using clear acrylic matt varnish in a 50/50 mix. Once dry I've then gone in downward strokes with the fibre pen.

 

I'll repeat this process again until I'm happy with the look. Like I've said in previous posts on here I get my ideas for the weathering not just off the one photo but of many of the same class that way I can just go with what I think looks and feels right.

 

Sorry for the ramblings, interesting things like photos below of the various steps, hope you like them and as always comments good or bad and questions more than welcome.

 

Cheers, Paul

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  • RMweb Gold

Its coming along well Paul... I do like the vertical strokes on your last photo! Looks like the topcoat of paint has been through the wash plant a few times too many.. and the undercoat paint is starting to show through! 

 

Steve

Thanks Steve, that's the look I'm going for I think, I've seen a couple of photos of well worn locos were the paint is well worn to the point were the paint goes from just faded into white. I'll give it another dirtying tomorrow then a good going over with the fibre pen hopefully that will do.

 

Many thanks

 

Paul

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Snap! I'm working on a 6921 as well!

 

I found a photo of it on-line (wish I'd thought to save the source as well as the actual picture!) of it in very worn green. As you say several ended up more white than green, but in the photo I'm working with the yellow ends appear freshly painted, just to emphasise the appalling body sides.

 

Interestingly from the web-searches I've done it had a double arrows on good condition green, but later lost them, without a trace. A few Welsh 37s seemed to gain, then lose arrows on green.

 

I'm having a purge on wagon 3-links and vac pipes at the moment, but your work has inspired me to get 6921 back on the work bench and a bit closer to finished. I find that more complicated weathering projects need to develop over time before I'm happy with the result, hence it moving from work bench to shelf for a while.

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  • RMweb Gold

Snap! I'm working on a 6921 as well!

 

I found a photo of it on-line (wish I'd thought to save the source as well as the actual picture!) of it in very worn green. As you say several ended up more white than green, but in the photo I'm working with the yellow ends appear freshly painted, just to emphasise the appalling body sides.

 

Interestingly from the web-searches I've done it had a double arrows on good condition green, but later lost them, without a trace. A few Welsh 37s seemed to gain, then lose arrows on green.

 

I'm having a purge on wagon 3-links and vac pipes at the moment, but your work has inspired me to get 6921 back on the work bench and a bit closer to finished. I find that more complicated weathering projects need to develop over time before I'm happy with the result, hence it moving from work bench to shelf for a while.

Cheers HillsideDepot, get it off the shelf an get it going again!! I've only managed to find one pic of it there's a link in one of my posts above of that and another that I found, both are looking very clean to be honest, but I just can't do clean!

 

Paul

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  • RMweb Gold

Today using a fibre pen I removed some of the dirt in downward strokes on both sides, I did this quite hard to remove some if the original paint to give it that well worn and faded look. I then have the body a good dusting with the black powder, sealed it with the varnish then went over again with the fibre pen. The body was then lightly dusted over with a light earth powder, with most of it being brushed off and then sealed again.

 

The tanks were then painted with weathered black, and whilst wet dusted over with the black powder and light earth, I then used clear enamal gloss varnish to add steaks.

 

It's not quite finished but it's getting there!!

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