RMweb Gold BlueLightning Posted November 11, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 11, 2016 They are both looking really good. don't worry about saturating the tread. I'm certainly enjoying watching them come together. Gary Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Corbs Posted November 12, 2016 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted November 12, 2016 (edited) Today 'evil thomas' gained some frame extensions, as it bothered me how much daylight was under the running plate. Then some weathering, a mixture of smoke and rust powders and matt black. A couple of the NCB wagons got the same treatment. Portbury gained some kadees Edited August 24, 2017 by Corbs 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold BlueLightning Posted November 12, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 12, 2016 I had never noticed the daylight under 'evil thomas' but looking back at the old pictures it looks much better now. Gary Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Corbs Posted November 12, 2016 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted November 12, 2016 (edited) Thanks mate. Just wanted to share this pic as managed to get the lining and transfers on Portbury (on one side at least!) Also cleaned up some of the black lining, I think the white/black/white helps with that too. Edited August 24, 2017 by Corbs 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold BlueLightning Posted November 12, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 12, 2016 You've done a great job on those transfers. Just needs dirtying up now Gary Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Corbs Posted November 12, 2016 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted November 12, 2016 (edited) A very playworn Hornby Pug was dismantled to provide connecting rods and pistons, I chopped a large chunk out of the chassis to squeeze the cylinder block in. Getting there.... Slightly huge problem in that the driving axle is chewing up the wheels. Possibly need to find a way to weld it together. Edited August 24, 2017 by Corbs 6 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
relaxinghobby Posted November 13, 2016 Share Posted November 13, 2016 What is the problem with the driving axles and wheels. Aren’t the axles and wheels joined with splines? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Corbs Posted November 13, 2016 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted November 13, 2016 Possibly it's torn the splines out. Need to investigate. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Corbs Posted November 13, 2016 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted November 13, 2016 (edited) Think the axle is sorted, raided the parts bin again and I had some wheelsets more suited to having connecting rods (with a stub). Pressed the new ones onto the middle axle and it seems to be much better. Interestingly the loco doesn't work without coupling rods as the middle wheelset doesn't touch the rails. Bonus pic showing the newly lettered and lined other side: Edited August 24, 2017 by Corbs 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Corbs Posted November 16, 2016 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted November 16, 2016 (edited) Here she is with steps (from the parts bin) and weathering, aesthetically I think she is nearly there, just waiting on some rod to make pipework, then adding lamp irons and details and a crew. I was quite pleased with the weathering, I tried to go for the effect that she had been cleaned at the start of the week but had a busy time working the docks. I tried to pick out the areas I knew would get dirty - around the bunker from coaling, and on the steps from mucky boots, for example. She does run ok-ish although quite jerky, she seems to have a tight spot every half revolution that I can't figure out. Could it possibly be slack in the coupling rods causing this? Edited August 24, 2017 by Corbs 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold BlueLightning Posted November 16, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 16, 2016 She looks great. I spent quite a lot of Sunday looking for an inconsistent tight spot on my latest kit built loco, turned out that there was a bit of side-to-side slack in the wheels and the flange was catching on the body and getting stuck! Took me ages to find it. Gary Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Corbs Posted November 16, 2016 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted November 16, 2016 Maybe that's it, I might try chopping out some more in the wheel reliefs in the running plate block Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Harrison Posted November 16, 2016 Share Posted November 16, 2016 Great job! These Bachmann freelance tanks are remarkably bash-able; I turned one into a Manning Wardle-type recently. 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Corbs Posted November 16, 2016 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted November 16, 2016 I love it! Was thinking of something similar for an ex-W&S loco, or possibly something similar to the Lambton tender locos. On Portbury, I filed out the middle wheelset reliefs which I think helped a bit. It is hampered a bit by the pickups (which were designed for bigger wheels). Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Corbs Posted November 17, 2016 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted November 17, 2016 (edited) Think the tight issue is resolved - connecting rod was catching on the motion bracket. I've swapped the washer around to hold the rod in and it seems to have worked. The brass rod arrived so I could add some steam pipes, together with some cans from RT Models - the real Portbury always carries a few oil cans on the running plate. Nearly finished! Edited August 24, 2017 by Corbs 11 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Corbs Posted December 11, 2016 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted December 11, 2016 (edited) Wanted some wagonloads for my NCB wagons to go with the Little Lambton, so I thought I would give this a go. Dish sponge cut to fit Then sliced into at the top, sprayed black, a bit of glue and some Peco coal scatter. Quite nice Repeat a few times, including one a bit under-filled to vary things a bit. Modelled here by Portbury. Edited August 24, 2017 by Corbs 11 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Corbs Posted December 16, 2016 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted December 16, 2016 (edited) In between working on my new Avonside project, I looked at 'Westlin' (my fictional 7P 4 cylinder loco) and thought it needed a couple of things to bring it into the fleet proper (despite being a static model) Copper cap (all my NWR fleet have one - Mr. Hatt being an ex-Swindon man) and tender lettering Edited August 24, 2017 by Corbs 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Corbs Posted January 1, 2017 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted January 1, 2017 (edited) New year, new project. The LNER P2/4 I've wanted to do this for some time. I do actually like the look of Thompsons A2/2 Pacifics, but have often wondered what they might have looked like if the P2 had taken on Thompson's aesthetic above the footplate and the walschaerts valve gear, but not the divided drive and conversion to 4-6-2 configuration. Matthew Cousins did some photoshopping of this previously, but here's my rough concept I knocked up in photoshop. So last year I got hold of a Hornby P2 chassis and a 'Tornado' body (as the boiler looks about the right size, and the cab is a good match). With the shaped chassis weight removed, Tornado's boiler can fit. After a fair bit of thought on where to make the first incision, it was out with the hacksaw! Not bad so far. Am thinking I might use the curved front footplate of a Gresley loco body rather than the angular Peppercorn one, but I need to extend the main footplate forward and look at removing the splashers first.... Edited August 24, 2017 by Corbs 10 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold BlueLightning Posted January 1, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 1, 2017 I've been looking forward to this since you first posted on the Imaginary Locomotives thread, and with your skill it is bound to be a great model! Gary Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
micklner Posted January 1, 2017 Share Posted January 1, 2017 Graeme King does a A2/2& 3 very good front end resin moulding which might fit. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Corbs Posted January 1, 2017 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted January 1, 2017 Graeme King does a A2/2& 3 very good front end resin moulding which might fit. Graeme's resin conversion kits are brilliant, but I fear may not work for this set-up, my reason being that the pacifics have a 'double step down' in the running plate, whilst it looks like I need a single, taller one in order for the bufferbeam height to stay the same? With that in mind, perhaps a Black 5 front end might be a better fit, as the running plate is so high? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
micklner Posted January 2, 2017 Share Posted January 2, 2017 I hadn't noticed the change of the front end in your photos . I am building a A1/1 which uses the same front end moulding at the moment, that does not have the step down , no idea if the height would match ? The A1/1 has the footplate flush with the splashers albeit with larger drivers. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Corbs Posted January 2, 2017 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted January 2, 2017 I hadn't noticed the change of the front end in your photos . I am building a A1/1 which uses the same front end moulding at the moment, that does not have the step down , no idea if the height would match ? The A1/1 has the footplate flush with the splashers albeit with larger drivers. Hello Mick The more I think about what you said, the more I think you are right. Looking at the Peppercorn vs. Thompson boilers, my smokebox is too short in front of the chimney. I did some digging and found Tim's excellent A2 to A2/3 conversions using Graeme's resin parts, which include a smokebox extension: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/49233-thompson-a2s-Bachmann-rebuilds/page-3 If I introduced a double step down, but compressed the distance between the two, it would look like Matt's photoshop here (the original one that inspired this project): This would be a big help for me, as I had thought I would need to hack into the chassis, but this way enables me to get the 'chin' of the smokebox to jut out properly, rather than being recessed into the running plate, with enough room underneath for the middle cylinder. Looks like I need to speak nicely to Mr. King, and get hold of some A2 cylinders and running gear.... 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
micklner Posted January 2, 2017 Share Posted January 2, 2017 Theres are A1/1 A2/2 and A2/3's builds, on workbench thread too. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
scots region Posted January 4, 2017 Share Posted January 4, 2017 Ooh me likey Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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