RMweb Gold Corbs Posted July 27, 2021 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted July 27, 2021 4 hours ago, Sandhole said: Corbs, who makes the MSC Kitson body, please. Regards, Chris. Hi Chris this is a prototype print which had failed on one corner (which is why I rebuilt the rear bufferbeam and added a non matching step) but I think it will be made by Hardys Hobbies at some point. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandhole Posted July 27, 2021 Share Posted July 27, 2021 5 hours ago, Corbs said: Hi Chris this is a prototype print which had failed on one corner (which is why I rebuilt the rear bufferbeam and added a non matching step) but I think it will be made by Hardys Hobbies at some point. Thanks very much Corbs. I'm a big fan of Hardys, I'll look out for it. Regards, Chris. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mol_PMB Posted July 27, 2021 Share Posted July 27, 2021 15 hours ago, Corbs said: The MSC Kitson thankfully has very few handrail knobs. It was sprayed black all over as I wanted to try out designing the TDA livery to fit and then printing it on the laser decal printer. Here it is part way through application. The decals print upside down (laying white down as the top layer) and are flipped over (so the white is the base layer). Really pleased with it. It's not perfect (the laser prints with dot dithering so it's not solid colour or totally crisp) but certainly easier than assembling the lining piece by piece. Slathered the micro sol and micro set on to encourage the decal to stick and conform to the rivets. Very nice! I could do with one of those in 7mm! 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cunningham Loco & Machine Works Posted July 28, 2021 Share Posted July 28, 2021 It's a baby J50! 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Corbs Posted July 30, 2021 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted July 30, 2021 Hi folks, I did a little video showing the process of designing, printing and applying the livery using the OKI laser printer, in case it is of interest! 7 3 6 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Compound2632 Posted July 30, 2021 RMweb Premium Share Posted July 30, 2021 (edited) Impressive. Both the blue and red are fairly dense colours. How do you think you would get on with a less dense colour, such as yellow or straw? I suppose for white lining, one could paint the area white first and leave a blank line on the transfer. I suspect that the whole area would need to be white, so that the main body colour was on a uniform base colour. (Come to think of it, haven't you done some PO wagons that way?) Edited July 30, 2021 by Compound2632 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Corbs Posted July 30, 2021 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted July 30, 2021 (edited) 14 hours ago, Compound2632 said: Impressive. Both the blue and red are fairly dense colours. How do you think you would get on with a less dense colour, such as yellow or straw? I suppose for white lining, one could paint the area white first and leave a blank line on the transfer. I suspect that the whole area would need to be white, so that the main body colour was on a uniform base colour. (Come to think of it, haven't you done some PO wagons that way?) I think more experimentation is required. The density and solid-ness of the colour does seem to vary a lot, as well as the crispness of the joins between the colour and things like text or lining. Obviously I don't bother applying or showing many of the failures but this might be a bit of an insight. On this photo of the terrier the lining has been printed as large single pieces (the blue itself is spray paint), this was the minimum thickness of lining I could get away with before it fell apart and the black became broken up as the printer tried to mix CMY on such a small area. On the cab and bunker you can see where the Magenta drum is not registering with the other 3 as the magenta is slightly off-centre, but this might be due to a specific area of the drum and putting the design on a different area of the paper could potentially fix that. The lettering is not far off straw and if we zoom in we can see where the printer is trying to tint the colour by adding spots of a darker colour on top. On something large like a T shirt with a large area to cover this would not be an issue but since it it so thin, the dot dithering is more obvious. This is possibly to do with the magenta's registration, who knows. This is what it looks like when dealing with a complex bitmap image with lots of detail. Here's a slightly thicker font in a yellow, shaded black. This is at normal-ish viewing distance. With white lining over paint, because it's just the white drum that's being used, it can print solidly with a lot more finesse. The lining on the borrows is a lot thinner, and the WSPG logo on the cabside uses quite thin lines. The PO wagon decals are just white (sometimes shaded with black or red) over a painted background. More research needed, maybe I need to try something like you suggested with white lining, my concern is that it might fall apart with the colour on each side. Wouldn't mind trying a brighter block colour livery too. 10 hours ago, 313201 said: Hi Corbs Would I be right in saying that to get the livery printed instead of painted that the printing cartridge ( for use of a better term ) would have to be swapped for a different cartridge with the required colour or does your 3d printer have availability for multiple cartridges to be fitted at the same time. I just thought I should ask as I have seen so much on here and on youtube about 3d printing and thought someday if and when I can afford 1 I might try it myself, who knows, I might be able to 3d print a merseyrail class 507/508 unit with it. Hi mate, sorry I think you are getting laser printer and 3D printer confused. As shown in the video this is like a conventional printer but it has white instead of black toner. You can get stuff called 'ghost toner' for CMYK printers that replaces the black with white, so if you draw black lining, it will print as white lining, for example, but it can't mix colours together on the same decal as shown here, so you'd need to do a white decal, then a colour decal, and overlay the colour one onto the white one. Edited July 30, 2021 by Corbs 8 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnhutnick Posted July 31, 2021 Share Posted July 31, 2021 I am in the US, so we may have different OKI printers available. Can you please tell me the OKI model number, and what it costs in the UK? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Corbs Posted July 31, 2021 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted July 31, 2021 I think it's out of production now but the model number is C711WT and it cost £1,308.99 second hand, delivered. I think it was used by a clothing shop that used it in conjunction with a heat press to make designs on T shirts. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Corbs Posted August 5, 2021 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted August 5, 2021 More experiments with the decal printer. Wanted to see if something with pure cyan would come out as a solid colour. Here's the reference photo and design. At first you can see how the white and blue are not registering fully, leaving a white lip along the bottom edge. I flipped the design upside down so the white lip is at the top now and less noticeable. Still not a solid cyan, wonder if that's because the design was done in RGB mode (although I set the colour values with a CMY setting). 12 2 1 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Popular Post Corbs Posted October 18, 2021 Author RMweb Gold Popular Post Share Posted October 18, 2021 (edited) Gosh, been a bit quiet in posting on the ol'cobblin' thread, but I've not been idle. Possibly too many projects! 'Twas ever thus... The Kitson gained a roof (brass sheet with styrene bits) and a few other bits, needs a name, details, weathering etc. Destined for the same TDA fleet is another Hardys Hobbies Bagnall 16", this time it's the round tank version, the idea that the two locos were bought on the cusp of the switchover. This was also the test bed for some printed livery tests to see how it coped with various colour mixes in terms of dithering and fidelity. You can see the cyan toner roller has a scuff in it! Ultimately it of course got the dark blue and red lining. Really chuffed I was able to design it to fit the front of the tank. It acquired some ladders and LRS nameplates. 'Unity' being named after the USA joined the war effort in 1941 and started arriving in Britain. Sister loco 'Liberty' named for similar reasons. Weathering with a powder mix wash., this was after most of it had been taken off. Of course I rushed it and the lacquer met remaining moisture and reacted, gah.... Used a mix of IPA, cotton buds, some areas were scraped, some just straight-up overpainted with black acrylic. Hopefully it doesn't show too much. The drivers' side had cracked where the lacquer had been too thick and the coats ended up drying at different rates. What have we learned? LET IT DRY. I sanded back the cracks and applied a final coat of lacquer to try to reduce the cracking, hopefully it's ok-ish now. Note on both the Bagnalls I have swapped the 'pop' safety valves for Salter ones to match the Avonside 'Dublin' - the TDA having specified this when ordering Handily I had some broken Avonside spare parts sets to use. Edited October 18, 2021 by Corbs 21 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Popular Post Corbs Posted October 23, 2021 Author RMweb Gold Popular Post Share Posted October 23, 2021 (edited) Radial Tank meet Razor Saw, Razor Saw meet Radial Tank. Hello. Nice to meet you. Jolly good. Indeed. Quite so. Edited October 23, 2021 by Corbs 25 8 3 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Mikkel Posted October 23, 2021 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 23, 2021 You've got the lyrics for a world hit there Is this one totally freelance or is there an inspiration for it? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sophia NSE Posted October 23, 2021 Share Posted October 23, 2021 Oooh that's a cutie! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Compound2632 Posted October 23, 2021 RMweb Premium Share Posted October 23, 2021 Steamroller? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Northroader Posted October 24, 2021 RMweb Premium Share Posted October 24, 2021 Would it have been better to keep the splashers/sandbox facing the way they were? 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Popular Post Corbs Posted October 24, 2021 Author RMweb Gold Popular Post Share Posted October 24, 2021 What sandboxes? 21 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Compound2632 Posted October 24, 2021 RMweb Premium Share Posted October 24, 2021 Not a Steamroller, then... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Corbs Posted October 24, 2021 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted October 24, 2021 Nyet, a freelance design but drawing inspiration from a few Beyer Peacocks/other similar locos including the steamrollers, M&GN A class etc. 9 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
scots region Posted October 26, 2021 Share Posted October 26, 2021 @Corbs, would T.S be interested in taking a commission for another Kitson? Or is there any definite time it might become available on hardys hobbies? I just don't want to go bothering the man. ScR Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurboSnail Posted October 27, 2021 Share Posted October 27, 2021 (edited) 10 hours ago, scots region said: @Corbs, would T.S be interested in taking a commission for another Kitson? Or is there any definite time it might become available on hardys hobbies? I just don't want to go bothering the man. ScR I'm told it's being test built at the moment! Andy is a very busy man at the moment so things have slowed down a bit on the kit front, but it shouldn't be too far away now. Edited October 27, 2021 by TurboSnail 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
scots region Posted October 27, 2021 Share Posted October 27, 2021 Ta for that Turbo. I once tried chopping a Lima J50 into a kitson, didn’t work. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanInHisDen Posted November 16, 2021 Share Posted November 16, 2021 On 11/12/2020 at 22:20, Corbs said: Progress has been somewhat glacial these past few months for various reasons. Something I hadn't quite factored in until I changed it was that after having moved my desk to be nearer the window (where the layout used to be), the side I work on was in shadow all the time. All my lights tended to point up, or I had a desk magnifier lamp, but it had such harsh blue-white LEDs that it just tended to cast more shadows and wasn't a pleasant light to work in. I've replaced it with a dimmable, colour changeable strip lamp that provides a much nicer ambient light on the desk. https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B08BHJ8VP7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 It's much nicer to model with! Speaking of modelling.... Two shunters, both alike in dignity. One 100hp sentinel from Hardys Hobbies, destined to work in Slugworth's chocolate factory, Tidmouth (just like its sister engine who worked in Fry's, Keynsham). Handily I happen to know the designer which made drawing up some custom decals a lot easier. These were done on the laser printer so the white is good but the colours do have the 'dithering' effect and aren't so crisp, but I can live with that. RC-ing it was another matter. First the rather tricky and brutal matter of cutting through the cab bulkhead, the tank and the boiler to make room for a battery. This is part way through the butchery. The receiver (Deltang Rx41) was fitted where the DCC plug was and taped over with masking tape, which was painted black. The wires for the charging cable come up through the cab floor and were also painted black. The switch (which goes between 'on' and 'off/charge' so that you can't charge it and run it at the same time) is behind the false frames in a little notch which was carved out to make the chassis sit flush again. Both the switch and charging socket are fixed in with Araldite. The battery is a tiny 40mah one from eBay. For my first charge-up I always do it on the hob in case of thermal runaway or something. Yes, I know it needs cleaning.... A crew member is glued in to hide the wires. It runs like this... On a full charge, wide open throttle, it ran for 42 minutes non stop and took 20 minutes to charge, not bad for such a small capacity, the newer motors don't use much juice. The second loco is another one of Tom's designs, a Borrows type loco based on Windle with a stretched cab to fit the Pug chassis. Tom's also prototyping this motor conversion, I think this is a 3-6v motor. Was a few pounds on eBay. I removed the pickups and put the receiver in the space after carving away the excess plastic. I went for a brown colour on the loco, with custom lining (naturally) provided by the laser printer once again. West Sodor Power & Gas' loco with one of their wagons (decals printed on the.... you get it) The clack valves are (I think) from Markits and the whistle is an old Tri-ang one bent 90 degrees. This motor is much faster! So much so that you can pop sweet wheelies! There was barely any low speed throttle control so I added one diode in each direction on the motor terminals, this has made it much nicer. More to come once I install the battery and wiring circuit.... Where can I find one of the Borrows type locos? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Corbs Posted November 17, 2021 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted November 17, 2021 On 16/11/2021 at 11:06, DanInHisDen said: Where can I find one of the Borrows type locos? I think it may appear in the Hardys Hobbies range at some point. Here's an update on the Beyer-Peacock 4-4-0. After considering every RAL colour under the sun I settled on green, how original. Following HonestTom's tip about 'Trimits' these were fitted with Roket Card Glue to the cab front. I've glued the body together now - the eagle-eyed will note that the running board snapped in front of the cab when I was cutting down the forward tanks. As such the boiler is now structural as the running board is araldited together along the break, and the cab and boiler are araldited together and in turn fixed to the running board. Hopefully it won't break again. Meanwhile thanks to @BlueLightning another bodyshell arrived. It lasted all of 30 seconds before being dismantled. The splashers have been filed flat on this one. The idea here is to have two locos that were ordered to do different jobs but have shared boiler and cylinders and clearly by the same builder. I tested an Electrotren chassis under it but the wheels are too small and the wheelbase too short, so another option will be needed. I'd like it to be a 2-6-2T but that rear overhang is substantial. 6 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Compound2632 Posted November 17, 2021 RMweb Premium Share Posted November 17, 2021 (edited) With the long front overhang, there's something of Galloping Alice about this: [Embedded link.] The rear end cries out for a trailing bogie - this getting quite Irish: [Another embedded link.] Both these engines were Beyer, Peacock products so a mash-up of the two using parts from the Adams Radial is spot on! Edited November 17, 2021 by Compound2632 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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