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4 hours ago, Sandhole said:

Corbs, who makes the MSC Kitson body, please.
Regards,
Chris.

Hi Chris this is a prototype print which had failed on one corner (which is why I rebuilt the rear bufferbeam and added a non matching step) but I think it will be made by Hardys Hobbies at some point.

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5 hours ago, Corbs said:

Hi Chris this is a prototype print which had failed on one corner (which is why I rebuilt the rear bufferbeam and added a non matching step) but I think it will be made by Hardys Hobbies at some point.

Thanks very much Corbs.
I'm a big fan of Hardys, I'll look out for it.
Regards,
Chris.

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15 hours ago, Corbs said:

The MSC Kitson thankfully has very few handrail knobs. It was sprayed black all over as I wanted to try out designing the TDA livery to fit and then printing it on the laser decal printer.

 

Here it is part way through application. The decals print upside down (laying white down as the top layer) and are flipped over (so the white is the base layer).

 

C62D3C9C-C02A-4802-89D6-840702224ABF_1_105_c.jpeg.df786a2587e51f812912f277238fd060.jpeg

 

 

Really pleased with it. It's not perfect (the laser prints with dot dithering so it's not solid colour or totally crisp) but certainly easier than assembling the lining piece by piece.

 

Slathered the micro sol and micro set on to encourage the decal to stick and conform to the rivets.

 

CBB0A60C-244D-4260-9185-BDD9C5668B26_1_105_c.jpeg.4730a0d44c71bea34ab7920de4438136.jpeg

Very nice! I could do with one of those in 7mm! 

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  • Corbs changed the title to Corbs' Cobbling - Experimental Printed Livery
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Impressive. Both the blue and red are fairly dense colours. How do you think you would get on with a less dense colour, such as yellow or straw? I suppose for white lining, one could paint the area white first and leave a blank line on the transfer. I suspect that the whole area would need to be white, so that the main body colour was on a uniform base colour. (Come to think of it, haven't you done some PO wagons that way?)

Edited by Compound2632
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14 hours ago, Compound2632 said:

Impressive. Both the blue and red are fairly dense colours. How do you think you would get on with a less dense colour, such as yellow or straw? I suppose for white lining, one could paint the area white first and leave a blank line on the transfer. I suspect that the whole area would need to be white, so that the main body colour was on a uniform base colour. (Come to think of it, haven't you done some PO wagons that way?)

 

I think more experimentation is required.

The density and solid-ness of the colour does seem to vary a lot, as well as the crispness of the joins between the colour and things like text or lining.

 

Obviously I don't bother applying or showing many of the failures but this might be a bit of an insight.

 

On this photo of the terrier the lining has been printed as large single pieces (the blue itself is spray paint), this was the minimum thickness of lining I could get away with before it fell apart and the black became broken up as the printer tried to mix CMY on such a small area. On the cab and bunker you can see where the Magenta drum is not registering with the other 3 as the magenta is slightly off-centre, but this might be due to a specific area of the drum and putting the design on a different area of the paper could potentially fix that.

 

0346ECF3-2EA6-44B8-B41E-555ACDF1E780_1_105_c.jpeg.d60d07ec929d0bfd6b7dbf42fed8d923.jpeg88621834_Screenshot2021-07-30at16_15_38.png.ea31c159008dfe5e1856c85349505081.png

 

The lettering is not far off straw and if we zoom in we can see where the printer is trying to tint the colour by adding spots of a darker colour on top.


On something large like a T shirt with a large area to cover this would not be an issue but since it it so thin, the dot dithering is more obvious.

 

This is possibly to do with the magenta's registration, who knows.

 

463561555_Screenshot2021-07-30at16_14_19.png.c3f2c21b810129d6dd8a48914e8562a7.png

 

This is what it looks like when dealing with a complex bitmap image with lots of detail.

 

 

1193582652_Screenshot2021-07-30at16_50_01.png.619a0bb8cbadf62637caa8afc5600184.png

 

Here's a slightly thicker font in a yellow, shaded black.

 

648959335_Screenshot2021-07-30at16_51_30.png.bf31e8e0f4040bb4f1735bdd5a526121.png

 

This is at normal-ish viewing distance.

 

FB318B89-E188-4D7F-8530-B476AF743FCF_1_105_c.jpeg.7c4857e10483b44f1172865abb0761c8.jpeg

 

With white lining over paint, because it's just the white drum that's being used, it can print solidly with a lot more finesse.

 

The lining on the borrows is a lot thinner, and the WSPG logo on the cabside uses quite thin lines.

 

The PO wagon decals are just white (sometimes shaded with black or red) over a painted background.

 

192957669_Screenshot2021-07-30at16_20_45.png.665a41e85d5e05c8ce1a00b4fa02a619.png

 

 

More research needed, maybe I need to try something like you suggested with white lining, my concern is that it might fall apart with the colour on each side.

Wouldn't mind trying a brighter block colour livery too.

 

 

10 hours ago, 313201 said:

Hi Corbs

 

Would I be right in saying that to get the livery printed instead of painted that the printing cartridge ( for use of a better term ) would have to be swapped for a different cartridge with the required colour or does your 3d printer have availability for multiple cartridges to be fitted at the same time.

 

I just thought I should ask as I have seen so much on here and on youtube about 3d printing and thought someday if and when I can afford 1 I might try it myself, who knows, I might be able to 3d print a merseyrail class 507/508 unit with it.

 

Hi mate, sorry I think you are getting laser printer and 3D printer confused. As shown in the video this is like a conventional printer but it has white instead of black toner. You can get stuff called 'ghost toner' for CMYK printers that replaces the black with white, so if you draw black lining, it will print as white lining, for example, but it can't mix colours together on the same decal as shown here, so you'd need to do a white decal, then a colour decal, and overlay the colour one onto the white one.

Edited by Corbs
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I think it's out of production now but the model number is C711WT and it cost £1,308.99 second hand, delivered. I think it was used by a clothing shop that used it in conjunction with a heat press to make designs on T shirts.

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More experiments with the decal printer. Wanted to see if something with pure cyan would come out as a solid colour.

 

Here's the reference photo and design.

 

650187864_Screenshot2021-08-05at15_53_21.png.cf090e944081d88f102f69daf8a2e149.png

 

At first you can see how the white and blue are not registering fully, leaving a white lip along the bottom edge.

 

C0566856-319A-4B06-9FF1-FF4FEE2398E5_1_105_c.jpeg.6aa8f021644aec0ce1dcf0be19a5447f.jpeg

 

I flipped the design upside down so the white lip is at the top now and less noticeable. Still not a solid cyan, wonder if that's because the design was done in RGB mode (although I set the colour values with a CMY setting).

 

 

1E4508E0-6686-4D01-8B14-AEC95D2406BE_1_105_c.jpeg.db1575d39ea18ab8a3b5cadc2fff217e.jpeg

 

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  • Corbs changed the title to Corbs' Cobbling - Chop Chop
10 hours ago, scots region said:

@Corbs, would T.S be interested in taking a commission for another Kitson? Or is there any definite time it might become available on hardys hobbies? I just don't want to go bothering the man. 

 

ScR     

 

I'm told it's being test built at the moment! Andy is a very busy man at the moment so things have slowed down a bit on the kit front, but it shouldn't be too far away now.

Edited by TurboSnail
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  • 3 weeks later...
On 11/12/2020 at 22:20, Corbs said:

Progress has been somewhat glacial these past few months for various reasons. 

Something I hadn't quite factored in until I changed it was that after having moved my desk to be nearer the window (where the layout used to be), the side I work on was in shadow all the time. All my lights tended to point up, or I had a desk magnifier lamp, but it had such harsh blue-white LEDs that it just tended to cast more shadows and wasn't a pleasant light to work in.

 

I've replaced it with a dimmable, colour changeable strip lamp that provides a much nicer ambient light on the desk.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B08BHJ8VP7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

It's much nicer to model with! Speaking of modelling....

 

Two shunters, both alike in dignity.

 

One 100hp sentinel from Hardys Hobbies, destined to work in Slugworth's chocolate factory, Tidmouth (just like its sister engine who worked in Fry's, Keynsham).

 

1E2BC8CC-B9A3-4459-810F-392ED54AA4F2_1_105_c.jpeg.0b99f60e67b0d3a76a8bd7af6af74197.jpeg

 

Handily I happen to know the designer which made drawing up some custom decals a lot easier. These were done on the laser printer so the white is good but the colours do have the 'dithering' effect and aren't so crisp, but I can live with that.

 

35F2114D-340B-4916-89A6-15F78BD71355_1_105_c.jpeg.f4ad4e4da15d35de0e574dcb2c375f2d.jpeg

 

RC-ing it was another matter.

First the rather tricky and brutal matter of cutting through the cab bulkhead, the tank and the boiler to make room for a battery. This is part way through the butchery.

C8FF7AA1-F377-43B1-B983-4620360DC449_1_102_o.jpeg.c995ef61c97710835677ff6a8a1ee998.jpeg

 

The receiver (Deltang Rx41) was fitted where the DCC plug was and taped over with masking tape, which was painted black.

The wires for the charging cable come up through the cab floor and were also painted black.

The switch (which goes between 'on' and 'off/charge' so that you can't charge it and run it at the same time) is behind the false frames in a little notch which was carved out to make the chassis sit flush again. Both the switch and charging socket are fixed in with Araldite.

 

1FBF952D-428A-434F-86FF-DCEAA4A36AB4_1_105_c.jpeg.b7a15b6041e15f00ad18c144f0ac83a2.jpeg

 

The battery is a tiny 40mah one from eBay. For my first charge-up I always do it on the hob in case of thermal runaway or something. Yes, I know it needs cleaning....

 

7ADB62D9-A652-4DE6-B3A9-B742FF6B6CB8_1_105_c.jpeg.fc579fb6adc23b4152c1202db02df68b.jpeg

 

A crew member is glued in to hide the wires.

 

E51AC36A-E42D-4095-BCF5-98B84C0602F4_1_105_c.jpeg.504e3052765742363837b453904985e3.jpeg

 

It runs like this...

 

On a full charge, wide open throttle, it ran for 42 minutes non stop and took 20 minutes to charge, not bad for such a small capacity, the newer motors don't use much juice.

44ADDDC0-C7CD-4B30-A7EE-0CDF65F42E80_1_105_c.jpeg.c4703e4adcac7419a3b14c21c5ae13f3.jpeg

 

 

 

The second loco is another one of Tom's designs, a Borrows type loco based on Windle with a stretched cab to fit the Pug chassis.

4000B293-AEAA-4838-BCA3-022CA72C09BD_1_105_c.jpeg.d5e0c2d39caedac414de9d52da390601.jpeg

 

 

Tom's also prototyping this motor conversion, I think this is a 3-6v motor. Was a few pounds on eBay.

 

BEF47C9B-8A01-4086-B0F6-B947768DFC87_1_105_c.jpeg.8e4102d5644cf29aaf9db953dc5e83ee.jpeg

 

I removed the pickups and put the receiver in the space after carving away the excess plastic.

 

EB7A66E0-FECB-4086-B221-AE3545BCFAE6_1_105_c.jpeg.a5a665de2197971aca6bc4ede10b1cb6.jpeg

 

I went for a brown colour on the loco, with custom lining (naturally) provided by the laser printer once again.

 

D725678F-994B-4655-A70A-B758CA46CC10_1_105_c.jpeg.f752a64b904779768a960a897aa4f4b6.jpeg

 

350B0DA4-6933-4DB0-A5BE-3FDE67122654_1_105_c.jpeg.eeba496126393cd68938ed4f48967eb4.jpeg

 

West Sodor Power & Gas' loco with one of their wagons (decals printed on the.... you get it)

 

The clack valves are (I think) from Markits and the whistle is an old Tri-ang one bent 90 degrees.

 

B06B6D00-E2F5-4291-801F-A2DAA939BEC0_1_105_c.jpeg.007e2de9a8f16a588d2c97b6f09abc93.jpeg

 

This motor is much faster! So much so that you can pop sweet wheelies!

 

 

There was barely any low speed throttle control so I added one diode in each direction on the motor terminals, this has made it much nicer.

 

More to come once I install the battery and wiring circuit....

Where can I find one of the Borrows type locos?

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On 16/11/2021 at 11:06, DanInHisDen said:

Where can I find one of the Borrows type locos?

I think it may appear in the Hardys Hobbies range at some point.

 

Here's an update on the Beyer-Peacock 4-4-0.


After considering every RAL colour under the sun I settled on green, how original.

 

A34DF03E-FF7E-4EFC-9A0A-DA3F6F4478D8_1_105_c.jpeg.5cd03cddcaf9a69b3214106f707fce30.jpeg

 

Following HonestTom's tip about 'Trimits' these were fitted with Roket Card Glue to the cab front.

 

F9E9AEB3-D68F-4873-8982-8D4C1652DB2B_1_201_a.jpeg.8b523fde6d9b22d470fdb1e2b1350f91.jpeg

 

I've glued the body together now - the eagle-eyed will note that the running board snapped in front of the cab when I was cutting down the forward tanks. As such the boiler is now structural as the running board is araldited together along the break, and the cab and boiler are araldited together and in turn fixed to the running board. Hopefully it won't break again.

 

Meanwhile thanks to @BlueLightning another bodyshell arrived. It lasted all of 30 seconds before being dismantled.

 

8F323EE6-E34B-4AC9-82D2-82A1229FAC42_1_105_c.jpeg.a0d8d47c99ee7dbbb20fac9c84499b3c.jpeg

 

The splashers have been filed flat on this one.

 

7D81AC72-2B91-439C-B381-31DF29B0CB20_1_105_c.jpeg.1c876027fde461307790189e9e86c63d.jpeg

F1037A61-5BF3-4BE8-89FA-F052DE47EDE5_1_105_c.jpeg.40b0e8e227ce91fa07e2a09c5961ccb7.jpeg

 

The idea here is to have two locos that were ordered to do different jobs but have shared boiler and cylinders and clearly by the same builder.

 

I tested an Electrotren chassis under it but the wheels are too small and the wheelbase too short, so another option will be needed. I'd like it to be a 2-6-2T but that rear overhang is substantial.

 

9D433D24-91B6-4425-A772-AE2E656E2C04_1_105_c.jpeg.59fd45033a7c2345086fc7437dfb913c.jpeg

 

 

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With the long front overhang, there's something of Galloping Alice about this:

 

EZA9lBiXgAActqm?format=jpg&name=large

 

[Embedded link.] 

 

The rear end cries out for a trailing bogie - this getting quite Irish:

 

slncrleitrim-600x373.jpg.137cf0539a1c368

 

[Another embedded link.]

 

Both these engines were Beyer, Peacock products so a mash-up of the two using parts from the Adams Radial is spot on!

 

Edited by Compound2632
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