RMweb Gold Corbs Posted June 14, 2014 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted June 14, 2014 (edited) Slapped some paint around, and a GBL Black 5 donated a dome (After I'd spent ages trying to saw out 'Stowe's moulded in one!). Neither coat is anywhere near final, and will need rubbing back, but BR Express Blue (NWR Blue) is the eventual aim. The C7/1 has also had a spot of fillering, will need rubbing back and some filler primer soon. Edited March 5, 2023 by Corbs 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RAWRlab Posted June 17, 2014 Share Posted June 17, 2014 You do some absolutely brilliant work, it's great to see that you're still posting it on this topic You've inspired me to fix up an old Hornby E2 into my rendition of NWR no.1. I was just wondering if you could tell me what modelling filler you use for the projects, and if there's any special treatment needed when using it (priming it in some way, letting it rest in some way etc.) I'm an absolute newbie so any thing, even the smallest hint is absolutely appreciated Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Corbs Posted June 17, 2014 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted June 17, 2014 (edited) That's very kind of you to say so, I also have a long-term project to 'bash' a Hornby E2 into the extended tank version. I use 3 things for filler, all readily available via ebay. The first one is the white putty - this is really easy to sand, I usually use a piece of cardboard or plastic to work it into place. It's only downside is the drying time-it's so quick it almost dries before you can put it on! Filler primer spray paint is very good for evening out bumps and getting an even finish. I usually spray in the bathroom (with the extractor fan) or outside if possible, using an old cardboard box as a spray booth. Shake for about 2 minutes before use, use short, even bursts, and apply in very thin layers - sometimes up to 6 or so thin layers rather than one dribbly mess. Then you can use various grades of sand paper (up to, say, 1000 grit) to get the finish nice and even. This last one is a bit of a last resort. It's just a little tube of poster paint. You can work it with your fingers or a brush (it's non toxic), it's good at getting into those annoying gaps and holes, and is super easy to sand. If you make a mistake, no problem! Just sand it off and try again. Worth doing before a coat of filler primer. The other option is to use milliput, but practice first to get the right mix, and beware that using a lot in one go (As I tried to on the latest 'cobble') might mean it does not set well, and as with filler primer, best off adding a bit at a time and reshaping. The key to all of these is preparation and patience. Don't rush things and don't get frustrated if it doesn't go your way straight away. Good luck! On the C7/1, the Princess conrods wouldn't work with the new wheel arrangement, so I dug out some spares from the drawer that should fit with a little modification. This involved pushing out the crankpin threads from the rear wheels. Edited March 5, 2023 by Corbs 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Nile Posted June 17, 2014 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 17, 2014 You'll probably find the green putty better to work with. I had the same problem with the white one, but it's handy when building planes with white undersides. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Corbs Posted June 18, 2014 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted June 18, 2014 (edited) Cool, will give it a go, thanks! Last night I was experimenting with Gresley's conjugated valve gear from a spare A3 chassis. The rod is a bit too long though, placing the cylinders too far forward. Edited March 5, 2023 by Corbs 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Nile Posted June 19, 2014 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 19, 2014 A quick flick through a book reveals that tender atlantic locos normally drove the rear driver. Have you got a connecting rod long enough to do that? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Corbs Posted June 19, 2014 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted June 19, 2014 It's interesting that you say that, as that's what I would normally have thought, but the C7s drove the front driver. This loco is based on the idea that Gresley was experimenting with rebuilding the C7s with his own valve gear, and it received A4-style streamlining at the same time, however the success of the V2s put an end to the project. However, if I were to switch drive to the rear wheel, the A3 rod would probably fit, with the motion bracket between the wheels. Someone else has done a 'what if' C7/2 with Lentz valve gear: http://mikemorant.smugmug.com/Trains-Railways-British-Isles/LNER-and-BRE-and-BRNE/NER-locomotives/i-hkwcX43 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Corbs Posted June 19, 2014 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted June 19, 2014 (edited) Found some much nicer conrods that bolted on rather than old-school style 'plonk in the hole' Notched the body to bring it further back Here she is posed alongside a standard A4 showing the reduction in length Also found this to use as a reference if I do switch the drive to the rear wheel... http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/d/d7/Walschearts_valve_gear.jpg Edited August 24, 2017 by Corbs 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Corbs Posted July 20, 2014 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted July 20, 2014 (edited) Finally cleared off the workbench, sat down and did some cobblin'. Sanded back the streaklantic a bit to prep it for a coat of primer and pondered some more on how to mount the valvegear inside the valances. Replaced the connecting rod pins on the ungainly monstrosity so I could space the walschaerts motion out a bit. I think the chassis block may require a notch carved out of it to hang the motion bracket. Here is said notch in development... Sum total of the parts and donors so far: Boiler/Running plate/driving wheels/chassis - GWR 'King' Cab/motion - LMS 'Princess' Dome - LMS Black 5 Chimney/smoke deflectors - SR 'Schools' Smokebox door - LNER A1 Edited August 24, 2017 by Corbs 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Corbs Posted July 31, 2014 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted July 31, 2014 (edited) Today I swapped out the cut down motion bracket for a spare whole one I had in the box. The notch is much bigger thanks to plenty of work with a file and dremel with cutting disk. After a bit of careful adjustment, swearing and superglue, the motion on the left side is mounted up. Tested it all with a 'Princess' cylinder from the first attempt I had on my A1/Stanier cylinder conversion wedged into place. Coming together now... Experimented with a schools tender body on the GWR chassis but it just looked a bit funny and required the chassis shortening somewhat. Have now plumped for a Black 5 body on the GWR chassis, as the lines of the tender flow with those on the Stanier cab. The bogie is in the wrong place in this pic... Will have to sort out a mount of some kind. Edited August 24, 2017 by Corbs 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Corbs Posted August 3, 2014 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted August 3, 2014 (edited) In order to get the GBL tender body to fit around the (non functioning) tender drive unit, I had to cut away a bit of the moulded coal. It's struck me how much this fictional loco looks a bit like a stretched 'Jubilee' It's getting there, valve gear is binding a bit so need to sort that out (Suspect I need another washer to space it out from the motion bracket), then I can progress with painting and detailing the body. Even though the brush painted finish was a placeholder, I was very unhappy with it so the next few coats will be the aerosol as used on the Cathedral. Edited August 24, 2017 by Corbs 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnMartin90125 Posted August 5, 2014 Share Posted August 5, 2014 Wonderful stuff. I sent a few suggestions to that Ficticious Liveries site some years ago and a quite a few were done, such as the Merseyrail 73s in Silver. I also suggested a 9F in blue but didn't like what I saw, large logo. Might not be able to do these fab cut and shuts like you have but it is enjoyable seeing something different as opposed to accurate down to the last rivet. Some fun. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Corbs Posted August 5, 2014 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted August 5, 2014 Wonderful stuff. I sent a few suggestions to that Ficticious Liveries site some years ago and a quite a few were done, such as the Merseyrail 73s in Silver. I also suggested a 9F in blue but didn't like what I saw, large logo. Might not be able to do these fab cut and shuts like you have but it is enjoyable seeing something different as opposed to accurate down to the last rivet. Some fun. Thanks John! That's what this is about for me, fun and practice! Have you seen this chap is making a 9F into a 'might have been' BR Blue version? http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/87351-1970s-9f/ Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnMartin90125 Posted August 5, 2014 Share Posted August 5, 2014 Thanks John! That's what this is about for me, fun and practice! Have you seen this chap is making a 9F into a 'might have been' BR Blue version? http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/87351-1970s-9f/ Just looked at it, thanks for the link. Aim to do one but would have to be a straight repaint (with copius amount of artistic licence or when we were doing photography at college, bulls***ing!) BR maroon Stanier 5MT is on the cards as well (can't really call it a Black 5, can't call it a Red 5 as they were Jubilees) so suggestions what to call it would be welcome - other than a Brown 5 as that would be rather naughty. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Corbs Posted August 5, 2014 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted August 5, 2014 Sounds great! What about 'Blood 5', a play on Black 5 and the reddish colour? Need to get my backside in gear and set up a spraybox again, I'm coming round to the idea that slapping some decent paint on these will improve them no end. Maybe I can mask up the blue bastard tomorrow morning before work.... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raised On Steam Posted August 5, 2014 Share Posted August 5, 2014 Is blue bastard a technical term then ;-) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnMartin90125 Posted August 6, 2014 Share Posted August 6, 2014 Sounds great! What about 'Blood 5', a play on Black 5 and the reddish colour? Need to get my backside in gear and set up a spraybox again, I'm coming round to the idea that slapping some decent paint on these will improve them no end. Maybe I can mask up the blue bastard tomorrow morning before work.... Maybe Bloody 5, going by the track record (no pun intended) of GBL supplying incomplete, badly assembled models and inept customer service to subscribers. Or could say to people it is a Black 5 but I should get a load of shares in Specsavers first to make a few bob. Is blue bastard a technical term then ;-) Being Irish, I am naturally pale blue especially when I was unloading wagons in the snow so it isn't a technical term Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Corbs Posted September 19, 2014 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted September 19, 2014 (edited) Blue Bastard is more blue. Getting there slowly! Plonked it on the chassis for a couple of snaps. Edited August 24, 2017 by Corbs 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DCB Posted September 20, 2014 Share Posted September 20, 2014 What happened to the Atlantic, I would have thought Gresley might have popped a tin cover on a couple of those C1 Ivatt Atlantics which he tarted up with big superheaters etc for some shorter express formations which didn't need an A4. Most folk fail to realise the C!s only started to fly after being Gresleyised. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Corbs Posted September 22, 2014 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted September 22, 2014 Its still around, I wanted to get the cathedral and the bastard to a more complete state before continuing Just need to work up the courage to muck about with transfers! Might practice on evil thomas first! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Corbs Posted October 5, 2014 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted October 5, 2014 (edited) A splash of black in progress on The Bastard. The Cathedral waits its turn for the black treatment, while Evil Thomas sulks in the background. Edited August 24, 2017 by Corbs 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Corbs Posted October 10, 2014 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted October 10, 2014 (edited) I was never quite happy with Evil Thomas' wheels and felt they let it down quite a lot. The tyred centre wheelset and deep flanges on the other two were a bit 'meh'. So, I purchased a china-built Thomas wheelset from ebay and set to work today. Out came the original wheelsets. In with the new. Hit a slight snag as the rearmost one in the old chassis has insulated wheel centres and metal wheels, with no bearings on the axle, so had to retain the Margate axle. Splashed some black paint on the other two. In the spares box I had another Margate chassis, so decided to use the leftover pieces to give the centre wheels flanges and to add a China wheelset to the front. I pressed the wheels off the centre axle and used the Margate wheels off the front axle instead - here's a comparison Cobbled it all back together - China front axle (with plastic wheel centres) and Margate (Flanged) centre axle! Much better I think. Edited August 24, 2017 by Corbs 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
34theletterbetweenB&D Posted October 11, 2014 Share Posted October 11, 2014 ...Most folk fail to realise the C1s only started to fly after being Gresleyised. It was where he proved for himself that the typical North American superheater/grate area ratio was the way to go for power at speed (19:1 on the high superheat atlantics, and it is no coincideance that the A4 had pretty much the same). Another thing most folk don't know is that in this final high superheat form they could match any UK 4-6-0 for power in the 70- 90mph range. How otherwise could they work 500 ton plus loads at speeds in this range on level track? Gresley was still tinkering with them until war broke out, with thoughts of further improving their utility. Not bad from a 1902 design... 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnMartin90125 Posted October 11, 2014 Share Posted October 11, 2014 I started an "Evil Thomas" some time ago, bought one cheap with the teeth stripped on the gear set, probably a result of a youngster forcing it like a push-a-long, looked fairly new. For the preparation, I sprayed some oven cleaner on it which took the number off a treat and left the red bufferbeams fully untouched. Can't remember if it was Mr Muscle or another one that the brand name escapes me but this has inspired me to have a go at finishing that (how many projects have we all started, eh?) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Corbs Posted October 12, 2014 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted October 12, 2014 (edited) Gave that loco a nose. Then got it to pose. With and without those..... smoke deflectors. Edited August 24, 2017 by Corbs 10 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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