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Nile's Mostly Freelance Bodging Bench - Pre-Grouping Locos


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  • 1 month later...

Hi Dave, the task was made easier because....

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I have another one that I won't be repainting.

 

Some more photos for you.

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The N class isn't quite what it seems, I shall return to it at a later date.

 

I replaced the coal lump in the tender with some real coal.

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And finally a complete, if rather short, SECR train.

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I think there could be more grey locos to come.

I really like what you did on the C Class, getting it into the Pre-Grouping livery. I wish I could do that with a regular C Class and make into the preserved No. 592 or the SER O Class No. 65; What do you, think?

Edited by LNWR18901910
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  • 3 weeks later...

Small tank engines will feature eventually, probably. There's no masterplan I'm following, so who knows where this will lead to.

 

I said yesterday that these early 7Fs shared there boiler design with the Midland compound. I checked this by placing them alongside for comparison. This is when I noticed the difference in the domes. When built they had a much rounder dome. By the end of their lives they had a flat topped dome, which is the condition the Bachmann model is in.

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As with the compound before, I felt that the dome had to be more rounded. It seemed to be firmly glued in place, but I wanted to avoid dismantling the body. I applied some super glue remover around its base and after a few minutes managed to work it loose.

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Using a bit of round plastic to hold it in the chuck, I used a mini drill to spin the dome while using sand paper to reshape it.

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Here it is in place. It still needs some cleaning up, but it's definitely rounder.

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What if Henry Fowler made a 2-6-0 version of the SDJR 7F?

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Sorry to go off topic, but curious.  Yankee Tank?

 

 

diameter = 18.0mm

pitch = 29mm (centre line to rail top) as best I can tell.

 

 

Sorry to be so late on this - got distracted by other things :scratchhead: and forgot about  the Radial. Yes, thoughts about a Yankee tank, but it would be a bit beefier than the HR loco, I have discovered. Still, it might be a goer but probably one kept away from the camera.......If it happens I'll keep you informed.

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  • 2 months later...
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It's been a while since I posted an update here, quite simply I've been busy with other things, mainly building kits rather than converting things. That doesn't mean I haven't plans here, there are projects lined up, it's a matter of finding the time and space to do them. As an example here is a photo of one I've started, it has a link to what I've been doing on my other workbench topic. It will get finished, eventually.

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     I'd always been curious as to whether all SEC locomotives received the wartime livery, as in popular media the majority of classes carrying it always seem to be the C, O, P, the various 4-4-0s and the sole Terrier. Surely more classes must have received it? Nevertheless, I'm sure the H will look terribly smart wearing it!

 

 - Alex

Grey was the standard livery from 1915 for the rest of the SECR's existance (31/12/1922) so was not replaced until SR livery started to be applied.  I would imagine that over 7 years the majority, if not all, of SECR locos would have received it.  Certainly Hs were grey and examples where I've seen pics include 321, 329, 531, 540 & 544.  Apparently the grey, over time, weathered to black. 

 

Chris KT

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A bit more progress on the H. I've temporarily put the main body parts together so you can get an idea of how it will look in its new colour.

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The paint is Humbrol 27 sprayed on with a new (& cheap) airbrush off ebay, basically a Chinese copy of an Iwatta.

Still lots to do, I haven't even touched the chassis yet.

Edited by Nile
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Looks fantastic Nile! If you're anything like me, you do occasionally start to get disheartened, repainting lovely complex liveries into all-over black (grey, even?). Please do not take that as an insult FYI - I do think the SECR wartime grey is a bit more complex and unique than black!

 

 

 

How did you get the cab roof off, Does it just come off with a bit of wiggling?

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I think I carefully levered the roof off. It's glued on, this photo is of the underside.

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The small piece on the left that broke off won't be visible as it goes on the inside.

My original plan was to repaint a SECR liveried one, as that would have all the right bits. But I couldn't face that so I chose a Southern one. The only difference I can see is the buffers.

Edited by Nile
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  • 2 weeks later...
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Some more slow but steady progress.

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This involved removing all the wheels and spraying them individually, then removing any over-spray from the treads. The pick-ups were removed from the keeper plate, which was refitted to the chassis and the axle holes blocked. The pick-ups on the bogie also had to be unclipped and masked. The motor and electrics on the top were masked. Any excess oil on the chassis was removed, or at least I tried to. Then it was sprayed. Some parts under the boiler were repainted by brush either black or red. Then it was re-assembled as in the photo. Even without its rods it runs along a test track.

Edited by Nile
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  • 2 weeks later...
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Meanwhile I've been distracted by a new toy, amongst other things. I'll just park this here for now as a preview (or tease).

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More details later, it's Railex tomorrow which is another big distraction.

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What's all this about then? The front wheel should be a clue, you wouldn't normally find it at that angle.

A few weeks ago at the Beds & Bucks 009 show I saw something that intrigued me, a tiny HO scale VW camper van being driven around by radio control. Not only was its small size impressive, but also its controllability. It wasn't whizzing around like a rocket. I got enough details to be able to find some on sale on ebay, the only sources were in Germany. This one was just under £100 including delivery. Here it's next to a OO scale Morris J van.

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It has working lights that are on all the time.

The plastic body can be levered off by inserting a screwdriver at the rear.

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I tried various OO scale diecast vehicles, the best match was this Ford 400E van.

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It will fit inside the body with a bit of modification. There is a mounting pillar at the back that needs to be reduced in length, this can be done with a drill.

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It will be interesting to see where you get to with this R/C stuff - I had a go at doing it from scratch a while ago and while I got the slow speed running pretty good, I couldn't afford the really miniature servos, batteries and receivers, so I couldn't motorise anything smaller than a large box truck in 4mm scale. 

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The good thing about using this RTR model is that all the parts are there and work. The down side is will only fit a few vehicles, but that is better than nothing. I forgot to mention who makes this RC model, it's Carson. They only seem to be available from Germany, although UK shops do sell other Carson models.

After checking that it fit inside the body I fitted the larger Oxford wheels to the Carson chassis. The holes in the wheels needed to be drilled slightly larger to fit on the Carson axles.

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Inside the body I glued some bits of balsa wood to fit around the chassis. Note the rear mounting pillar has been reduced in height.

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To refit the glazing I had to cut it into three and discard the middle bit.

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I added a bulkhead of black plastic card to the front bit. This will hide the battery from view.

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And glued into the front of the body.

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To make the chassis less visible through the windows it was a case of paint it black or cover it with black tape. I managed to remove the driving wheel from the Oxford interior and glue it to the chassis. The driver figure (Preiser I think) has had rather a lot removed to fit into the space left for him. The thick white wire next to him is the aerial.

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I added some more balsa wood at the back to make the chassis a tight fit.

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The finished model.

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  • 3 weeks later...

And it works! Here it is on a point I bought at Expo this year, which it negotiates with no problems.

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And on some plain track with what is currently my only EM gauge vehicle.

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I shall return to this loco later. I want to backdate it to the 1930s but need more research before I do that.

Do you think this method would work for P4?
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If you are referring to the Beattie well tank then the answer is probably not. I doubt the original wheels are fine enough. So new wheels needed, which probably means a new chassis, or a lot of bodging.

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