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Nile's Mostly Freelance Bodging Bench - LSWR Road Van

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The body is looking good, but the trussing on the underframe looks odd. I would cut it off and give it a round bar and turnbuckle version. I use 0.45 handrail wire though handrail knobs with the turnbuckle represented by a 3 or 4mm length of pvc insulation stripped from some telephone wire. The knobs will want mounting on a queen post, either a solid bit of 2mm square rod or an I-beam (which I've made in the past from 10 thou strip).


Are you going to keep electric light, or fit gas?


Andy G

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I'm going to stick with the existing trussing on this coach and see how it turns out. I might try your suggestion on another one.

As for lighting this coach uses the new fangled electricery. This does present the problem of where to put the batteries, as there isn't room in the middle. I've offset them to one side and set back from the edge so the doors can still be opened.


Access to them will be awkward but not impossible. Maybe they should have stuck with gas.


I've removed the old markings with a fibreglass pencil, and filled and sanded the joins.




The cutting created a small window on the corridor side. I've turned it into a solid panel with some plastic card.



It's now ready for some paint.

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I've been painting. First the interior.



Then the outside. Light grey on the roof, Wisconsin Central Maroon on the sides.



With Cream added to the upper panels.



It's looking a bit dull, a coat of Klear will improve that and make it ready for some transfers.

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After they'd dried I sealed the transfers in with another coat of Klear. Then the sides were sprayed with matt, then satin varnishes to achieve this finish.


The door handles were then painted wirth brass paint.


Time to refit the glazing. Three of the four pieces fitted ok, but this one needed some help to stay in place while the glued set.



After clipping the body back onto the chassis I added some footboards. The centre one is 2mm L section glued to the truss rods.



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Onto the next project, a small loco. This is something I bought t'other week.


It's a Triang Polly/Nellie thingy. 

It runs ok, but it would need new wheels as the flanges are far too deep.



The inspiration for this conversion was a picture posted by Corbs of his Polly on a 0-6-0 chassis. I happen to have an Electrotren 0-6-0 that I haven't done anything with.


It has a very nice chassis.


That is the right size to for Polly.



A trial fit shows it will fit, but the front steps are in the way.


So I removed them.


The new chassis allows the body to be lower, with the buffers at the correct height.



I reckon this will make a nice shunting loco, with a bit of detailing. 

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Neil just where did you get that lovely little 0-6-0 from, I've been looking for a little out side cylinder 0-6-0 as a base to build a Caledonian 498 class 0-6-0 dock shunter and most of the HO ones always seem to have a big pancake motor over hanging the back in the cab area but this is a little gem!

        Looking forward to this build Regards Steve

Edited by Londontram
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I got it from Rails when it was on special offer. It's made by Electrotren, part of Hornby International. It was also produced in GWR livery and that of a South Wales railway that I can't remember, for Golden Valley Hobbies (I think). The part no. of mine is E0035.

The same chassis is also used under a loco in the Jouef junior line that was also sold here last year. It's probably sold out everywhere so may take some tracking down.


Edited by Nile
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You've almost got me sobbing with nostalgia, no. 7178 was my first loco! Excellent idea for a conversion, I might even copy it at some point. I still have 7178 in a box somewhere, and as others have said the electrotren chassis looks just right. The 7178 livery is sort-of SDJR, to go with the 4-wheelers that came in the same "Rural rambler" set.

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Thanks for your comments, I shall try not to mess it up.


I made a backhead for the firebox, it will be positioned in the cab above the motor.

I used part of a CD tub spindle as this was the right diameter, plus some plastic card.




To fix the front cab windows I used some plastic card cut like this.


To get the rough shape I held it inside the cab and marked it with a scalpel through the hole.


Fitted into the opening.



As the motor doesn't fill the cab I cut out the doors, giving a more open and older look.


I've also removed the molded handrails, they will be replaced with proper ones.


Looking into the cab you can see the the top of the firebox glued in place.



Lots more to do!


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Very nicely proportioned - looks like with the new motor, you could cut out the blanking plate under the boiler?


I thought about that, but the hole would be so small that it wouldn't be worth the effort. I'm going to paint it black, so it shouldn't be noticeable.

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I thought about that, but the hole would be so small that it wouldn't be worth the effort. I'm going to paint it black, so it shouldn't be noticeable.

Plus all you'll see if you do cut it out is the worm gear and the chip wiring  so it will most likely look neater leaving well alone'

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Some more things done. The openings in the front of the cab have been filled and cleaned up.



After some black paint.



Inside the cab I've made a back and floor (not fixed in place yet).



At the back I've filled the hole that was for the chassis screw, and repaired some damage to the buffer beam. The model must have been dropped.



And more at the front.


Edited by Nile
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This is where things get a bit heavy, it's time for Polly to put on some weight.

First the bunker.




I then glued the cab floor in place.


There are three holes under the bunker to let any fumes out. The round thing at the front of the floor is from the Electrotren body and matches a hole in the chassis so they can be screwed together.

More lead has been added inside the tanks.

And yet more lead at the front, to balance out the bunker.



The body now weighs 100g.

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Some more bits added to the body. At the back are some etched windows from Mainly Trains.


Also lamp irons, front and rear, from some micro-strip inserted into holes drilled into the buffer beam tops.

I've also cut out the holes for the couplings


At the front are handrails using Gibson knobs.


The brass safety valve casting is a leftover from the Tilbury tank kit currently on my kitbuilding workbench topic.

Painting next.

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  • Nile changed the title to Nile's Mostly Freelance Bodging Bench - LSWR Road Van

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