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Spitfire's Workbench - On3 Obsession


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The paint issue is down to resin casting having a film on it from the casting process. Washing takes it off. So by removing the paint you solved the real problem.

Thing is I did wash it well before I painted it first time.

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Well Ive been taking painting slowly trying to get a decent even coat. For some reason Ive been having a hard time with that.

But Ive managed, and now Im adding the modified door rail.

post-21863-0-69100100-1496196485_thumb.jpg

One side nailed in place.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well I managed to get some more gloss varnish on Tuesday and Ive now had an evening to work on lettering.

I decided to letter it as 114351, built from the first batch of D362.

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Next I have to add the tare weights.

Does anyone know if the Midland lettered livery had the tonnage painted, and where?

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Does anyone know if the Midland lettered livery had the tonnage painted, and where?

 

Looking good! In Midland days, the only indication of capacity was the rectangular ticket plate on the solebar. I can't find a photo online but see Midland Style, Chapter VI Fig 3, if you have it, or Midland Wagons, Vol 1 Fig 27 (the same drawing) and many plates. The only exception seems to be for specials such as banana vans that were rated to different capacities for running in goods or passenger trains.

 

One other point if you will excuse me being pernickety - all the photographic evidence shows that the part of the V-hanger that overlaps the solebar would be grey not black. 

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Looking good! In Midland days, the only indication of capacity was the rectangular ticket plate on the solebar. I can't find a photo online but see Midland Style, Chapter VI Fig 3, if you have it, or Midland Wagons, Vol 1 Fig 27 (the same drawing) and many plates. The only exception seems to be for specials such as banana vans that were rated to different capacities for running in goods or passenger trains.

 

One other point if you will excuse me being pernickety - all the photographic evidence shows that the part of the V-hanger that overlaps the solebar would be grey not black.

 

Thanks, and thanks.

An easy repaint. Just hope the glosscoat doesnt mess up the grey colour. Or I might do it after a dullcoat.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well I have since finished the Slaters van. Its currently sitting in my bookshelf next to my D299 open.

 

But Ive been busy.

I wanted to get on with another scratchbuild and I wanted something that wouldnt be too challenging, so it had to be a low sided open.

Looking at what I currently have information for, I was once again drawn to the lovely illustrations in the LNWR wagons book.

Considering its low amount of timber, "relatively" small number of fixing bolts, and lack of hinges, I decided on an LNWR D2 open.

Well, actually Im building two, though the other is hopefully going to end up going to a friend.

Just need to wait for some more timber to start the body on the second wagon. And I need to order some more bolts...

 

Well, heres a picture after some work today drilling the end planking.

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Yes the D2s were built with riveted corner plates, no I dont want to form 80 rivets per wagon.

(At least not until I get experience using miniature rivets)

Edited by Spitfire2865
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Don't forget the cut-out on the ends of the headstocks - very distinctive feature of LNWR wagons. As I think you know if you have the LNWR wagon book, Earlestown built one of these in 1 hour 41 minutes - though I think they had all the pieces cut and drilled beforehand so they were really assembling a kit. And they didn't paint it. I think I can do a Ratio kit in under that time but my semi-scratchbuild tool a little longer!

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Don't forget the cut-out on the ends of the headstocks - very distinctive feature of LNWR wagons. As I think you know if you have the LNWR wagon book, Earlestown built one of these in 1 hour 41 minutes - though I think they had all the pieces cut and drilled beforehand so they were really assembling a kit. And they didn't paint it. I think I can do a Ratio kit in under that time but my semi-scratchbuild tool a little longer!

Yeah I do have to still cut those. Should be easy with my dremel though.

Just need to mark them out.

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Ive managed to cut up and nail down the floor planks.

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52 nails, bent around 40 to do it. Half mil brass is very bendable.

 

And I have the bottom ready to bend up some tierods.

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When the nuts and bolts come, Ill be able to start on the second wagon.

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Well the nuts and bolts arrived today, so Ive begun the second wagon. Already have one end mostly done and the second prepped.

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Spitfire Wagon and Carriage Works is slow, but dedicated.

Edited by Spitfire2865
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Wagon and Carriage works...... you mean to say there will be a LNWR carriage in Gauge 3? :)

Haha not for the near future as I have little to no interest in coaching stock for now. But I am not opposed to a change of heart at some point. Though I can see a carriage built to my standards costing quite a bit.

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If you was to go by weight, rather than number of models, I suspect you have been a lot more productive than most of us. And then there's the shear number of parts involved. Keep up the good work, slow or not.

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  • 8 months later...

Wow, been quite a while.

After a detour to aircraft modelling, Im back to trains.

So far in 2018 I planned Gauge 3 builds for an L&Y D1 and D21. 3 months of issues for getting the wood has finally paid off.

Starting with the D21 tintab.

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It will have a full detailed interior and working brakes. Got a lot of parts sitting around for that.

 

But in those 3 months, I planned, designed, and built a G3 Neilson 12" mineral engine.

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Still have to sort out the RC gear but in time.

 

Havent really been active around here much, though I do still read daily.

Edited by Spitfire2865
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Looking very good - mine, somewhat smaller, is progressing through the paintshop...

 

I confess to being just a little disappointed that you haven't actually used sheet metal for the sides!

Oh I considered it, however it would have to be etched.  That wouldve skyrocketed the price for my etch sheet. I do regret it a bit though as the extra strength wouldve been welcome.  

What livery are you painting yours in?  Do you know if the footboards were body colour or unpainted?

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Oh I considered it, however it would have to be etched.  That wouldve skyrocketed the price for my etch sheet. I do regret it a bit though as the extra strength wouldve been welcome.  

What livery are you painting yours in?  Do you know if the footboards were body colour or unpainted?

Why would it need etching  they seem to be rectangular sheets, 0.010" brass could be cut with a heavy duty craft knife. The holes you can drill as you did for the panels anyway.

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