Spitfire's Workbench - On3 Obsession

[Spitfire2865]

Well. I may not have anything to build, but that wont stop me from modeling.

This is again my first wagon. Ive recently scrapped up the lettering, gave it so many coats of powders, and gave it a load of a medium sized crate wrapped in a tarpaulin. The crate is simply a bass wood frame with a few pieces of plasticard in certain areas to make it easier to glue the tarp down.

 

And Ive taken up making my own crates. Again, my favourite, bass wood, with plastic strip glued on for raised detail.

 

And finally, back to my first Slaters kit. I recently found evidence of a wagon carrying wood covered in a tarpaulin. Figured Id try it. Only issue is the ropes arent nearly as messy as they need to be. From what Ive seen, roping down timber wasnt an art in any means.

 

 

Well. Theres a quick update on my boredom modeling.

I should have a start on a London Road Jinty in the next few days, still need to source a set of Romfords for it so progress will be slow.

But, I also have a Dapol pug kit on its way, which Im going to use to rebuild a new cab for my pug. I dont fancy cutting out the blanked out window, so Ill build the kits cab, modify it for the RTR version, and maybe even get on with lettering the damn thing already.

 

And I may make another kit purchase. Buying some last few Slaters kits. Im going for some underframes to build some odd wagons on and a PO kit of theirs.

 

A lot of work ahead for me....if only the damn mail would get here!

[57xx]

I like the job you've done of distressing the lettering on your LMS open.

[Spitfire2865]

I like the job you've done of distressing the lettering on your LMS open.

Thanks. To be honest, I think it looks better in photo than in person!

Edited February 7, 2015 by Spitfire2865

[Spitfire2865]

Hello!

The past couple days Ive been working on my first styrene scratchbuild. A Furness Railway covered van. I found a drawing for a side and end with dimensions and I fudged it a bit to fit on a 16.5' chassis with 9' wheelbase. It should be 9.5' wb with 16' OH but who will notice 2 mil?

Im currently working on fixing the roof. Having a bit of an issue getting it to fit flush with the walls. Then, a roof hatch will be added and probably will stay unlettered. Dont trust myself lettering F R and probably would never see LMS letters...if even grouping. It was just a practice and bit of fun while I wait for a London Road kit to come.

 

And I just received a Dapol pug kit. Bought it to build a new cab for my pug because I hate the blanked out window and dont trust myself with cutting it out. Unfortunately. It seems the cab from the kit is a mm shorter than hornbys...not sure which is scale but Ill go with Hornbys dimensions just for easiness. Will be a challenge fitting it due to the roof.

All I need now is a 5 mil drillbit to open out the windows. Then assembly.

 

And I made the cab front fit perfectly on the pug.

 

Well. Thats it for now.

[Twright]

Excellent work

[Spitfire2865]

Wow. My little Furness van is coming together.

Onto the roof, I had a piece of plasticard clamped to a tube to curve it and when trying to glue it on, it just wouldnt stay.

So I figured Id try a new technique.

I rather like this as its more like building a real van.

I forgot to take pictures of the process but I laid out slats to glue on from the edges to the center, adding a center key-like piece at the end. Then spread white putty ALL over the roof in a thick slab. Then when dry, I coated myself in putty dust as I sanded almost all of it off. Watered down white glue spread around, then the tissue. More glue and then I let it sit overnight. Really turned out nicely. Edges were wet while glue was applied so I just pulled it off leaving decently smooth edges which were tucked under the roof lip.

Humbrol 27 finished the roof off.

Roof door was then added and repainted.

Sprung 3 links are very hard to put on when the wheels are in place...

When its all dry, buffers and then maybe Ill try some FR lettering.

 

And I just realized Ive still forgotten end supports. Those need to be added

Edited February 12, 2015 by Spitfire2865

[Nile]

A proper wooden (or plastic) roof, I like your style.

[57xx]

The roof looks good. I remember seeing a pic of a goods yard that had a good view looking down on the vans there and you could clearly see the planking on them under the canvas. You have captured what I remember seeing very well.

[Spitfire2865]

Wow it seems everyones updating their workbench threads today. Guess Im a little late to the party.

Well, yesterday was a peaceful day of relaxation. Watched a couple films, stayed inside, lettered and weathered a van.

It ended up a bit dirtier than I intended. The plastic weathers strangely compared to other kits. Not sure why, but I dont care too much. Would be old by then anyway.

The letters are between the heavy timbers so can barely be seen. They may be a 'bit' overscale but from just a side and end view and no photos at all, it seems reasonable.

Figured it would have the running number on the plate so still need to add a suitable black oval.

 

Well. Tomorrow I should have some Slaters kits. If I remember correctly, a 5 plank, and RCH and Gloucester underframes.

[Spitfire2865]

Well I was slightly off. I have a Gloucester 5 plank, MR and RCH 1923 underframes.

Im not sure what to do with the two underframes. Any thoughts?

I like the idea of something vanlike to do more of my new roof technique but I also want to build oddities that, while being rarer examples, add interest and would give me something new to do.

[Spitfire2865]

Im so surprised. After three weeks of waiting which should only have taken one, My London Road Jinty finally came.

 

Determined to build it properly, read through the manual a couple times and started on the frames.

I know the solder isnt particularly neat. I never said I was any good. But so far it seems to be still all right.

The rivets were fun. A rounded off pushpin and a screwdriver hammer standin was a decent solution, even if Im a little heavy handed at times. Gota fix that...

 

And here is all thats left. I hope this chassis ends up running right. It will be a good challenge.

 

And finally, I started building the MR underframe. Not sure what Ill put on top of it. Probably will end up doing a simple 5 plank again out of wood. I bet I can get finer strapping this time.

Edited February 20, 2015 by Spitfire2865

[david.hill64]

May I make a suggestion for next time?

 

Even if the instructions suggest soldering the axle bushes in place before assembling the frames, I suggest leaving them unsoldered at first. Then when you slot the frame spacers in position you put some lengths of 1/8" rod through the front and rear axle holes and stand the assembly on some graph paper to check that all is square before first tack soldering and then if all still square finally soldering the frame spacers in position. If you have an engineer's square you can use that to align the spacers while you solder them to one side first. Once the frame spacers are firmly fixed you can check the alignment of the axle bearings and then solder them. If you have an alignment jig then making up the coupling rods and using that to ensure all is square will help.

 

If you solder the axle bearings in place first you run a small risk that there is a misalignment that might be tricky to re-align.

 

Having said that, I always used to follow the instructions and solder the bearings first but experience has taught me that waiting is better.

 

Anyway looking good and good luck! 

[Spitfire2865]

May I make a suggestion for next time?

 

Even if the instructions suggest soldering the axle bushes in place before assembling the frames, I suggest leaving them unsoldered at first. Then when you slot the frame spacers in position you put some lengths of 1/8" rod through the front and rear axle holes and stand the assembly on some graph paper to check that all is square before first tack soldering and then if all still square finally soldering the frame spacers in position. If you have an engineer's square you can use that to align the spacers while you solder them to one side first. Once the frame spacers are firmly fixed you can check the alignment of the axle bearings and then solder them. If you have an alignment jig then making up the coupling rods and using that to ensure all is square will help.

 

If you solder the axle bearings in place first you run a small risk that there is a misalignment that might be tricky to re-align.

 

Having said that, I always used to follow the instructions and solder the bearings first but experience has taught me that waiting is better.

 

Anyway looking good and good luck!

 

Interesting. I do have 1/8" rods which are acting as a jig. I had checked the bearings after soldering with all three in place and they all looked straight and true. I will probably not use a square, but tack solder the frames together with the jig to ensure they all line up. The rods are a snug fit so shouldnt allow any misalignment.

Would that be a good idea? Sorry for not including the axle jigs in the photo. Must have cropped them out.

[Spitfire2865]

Wow. I did a lot today.

Well. Onto the mail attraction, the London Road Jinty.

Soldering the frames together was interesting. Never really understood how narrow OO is when all I ever built was wagons. Though my soldering has improved from doing the bearings. I at least have a technique down to quickly get a joint on. Though that could just be down to the nickel silver.

The axles seem even and free rolling. The stiffest seems to be the front axle, but that may just be due to a bit of flux getting worked into the bearing or on the rod while checking. A quick clean of both saw an improvement. Next is the two middle spacers. Then the real issues should pop up.

 

I wish I could get some wheels quickly. I want to see if its uneven before doing much more work on it.

 

Next is continued work on the Slaters kits.

The MR underframe has been a quick job, but my tan paints arent very good so the deck is pretty bad. May strip that down and repaint if I decide to build an open wagon with it.

 

Next is some primed parts. The two other kits, a Gloucester 5 plank and a RCH underframe.

The biggest flaw of Slaters kits is the lack of internal detail. But this Im determined to make look right.

Still need to add internal strapping, but the hard part is done.

 

 

And thats that for tonight. Got a bunch done today between watching 2-1/2 films in the span of 9 hours.

[david.hill64]

The Jinty frames are coming on nicely. The tight axle may be due to a small misalignment.

 

Have you tried fitting the coupling rods to the axle alignment jigs?

[Spitfire2865]

The Jinty frames are coming on nicely. The tight axle may be due to a small misalignment.

 

Have you tried fitting the coupling rods to the axle alignment jigs?

No. I havent even taken them off the etch. Im not very good at sweating parts together so Im a little hesitant.

The tightness seemed to be a mixture between flux residue and sweat. All 3 axles seem to turn smoothly.

Ill definitely do the coupling rods next. Any tips?

[david.hill64]

Ill definitely do the coupling rods next. Any tips?

A good tip is to make coupling road assembly a number one priority and build the chassis around them. For a smooth running chassis you really need the axle spacings to be the same as the coupling rod spacing and the axles square to the frames.

 

Having said that I spent my first 20+ years of modelling fixing the bearings in the frames before assembly and usually got away with it!

[Spitfire2865]

A good tip is to make coupling road assembly a number one priority and build the chassis around them. For a smooth running chassis you really need the axle spacings to be the same as the coupling rod spacing and the axles square to the frames.

 

Having said that I spent my first 20+ years of modelling fixing the bearings in the frames before assembly and usually got away with it!

Ive already made up the chassis and the axles seem extremely free running after adding the middle frame spacers and getting room for the gearbox. The coupling rods still on the etch fit nicely over the ends of the jigs. I just dont know how to solder them. But in the future, Ill definately get those out of the way first.

Can you give me any tips for sweating parts together? Thats more what I meant by tips.

[david.hill64]

Can you give me any tips for sweating parts together? Thats more what I meant by tips.

 Having cut out and cleaned up any burrs on the etches, I put plenty of flux on the faces to be mated and use wooden cocktail sticks through the coupling pin holes to align the parts. I hold them together in a vice, or with magnets or with a clip and tack solder in a couple of places by touching the iron and a small amount of solder to the join. Then, once I am satisfied that the parts are still aligned, I hold the iron on the joint. Capillary action will draw the solder in and it will flow. You will be able to see it advance along the join. You might need to add some more solder to ensure that the entire joint is made. If you are working with nickel silver you will find it much easier than brass, but take care that everything is aligned and don't be afraid to let it get hot. So plenty of flux and plenty of heat, let physics help you!

[Spitfire2865]

Wow. So lately being stalled on the Jinty due to lack of wheels, Ive been working on the Slaters 5 plank.

Figured Id give it a bright colour, I went for a Cherry red.

Though I still dont have a livery.

I know not all PO stock was coal, so would any non coal company have any use for an open wagon?

Would like a more goods oriented idea.

 

And a bit of work on the Jinty. brake gear!

The brakes were soldered up with a bit of 'encouragement' in the form of swears and sweat.

And the brake hanger brackets were folded up. Need the wheels for the next bit.

Still putting off making up the coupling rods. Need to brace it better so I dont end up with wonky ones. Though, there is no way for me to screw the distances up.

[Spitfire2865]

Well then. Yesterday I bit the bullet and made up the coupling rods. I saw no way I could screw them up by the way they were designed, though Id like to soon get wheels to test it all and see if it does roll smoothly with rods in place.

 

Rods were sweated together on a rather lovely winter morning, amd gave no issue at all.

With them together, They look rather nice, except for where the front and rear rods meet, the etch overlay could have been a bit longer to better meet at the middle. Easier seen in the next two photos.

Well, they fit on the chassis nicely, they dont seem tight at all on the jigs, but the real test comes with wheels in place.

Note to future self, dont buy kits without first getting wheels.

[Spitfire2865]

Well then, out of complete boredom, I added support couplings to my Furness van. Pretty sure the prototype wouldnt have carried them, but its half freelance already with the fudged dimensions and brake gear.

[Spitfire2865]

Well then.

I decided what to put on the MR underframe. A 4 plank wagon.

Built up with wood, plastic, and a new material for me, card.

The card is from the backing paper if a Smiths 3 link packet.

Corner brackets have a new technique for me to represent retaining nuts, bits of square plastic strip.

Its Ok, not perfect but I need to refine my attempts. Too thick chunks. Though with paint, I think it will turn out nice.

 

[Twright]

Great work

[Spitfire2865]

The 4 plank is finished.

The letters are hand painted as I cant get pressfix around the strapping.

Spring break next week so Im leaving this workbench for a week, but hopefully after that, Ill have some wheels and finally finish the Jinty chassis.

 

What I still fail to understand is why kit building is so expensive. Theres the kit, then wheels, motor, gears, and then whatever bits you decide to add after. Also Im having the hardest time finding materials for pickups. Im surprised I cant find an online shop which stocks both plain PCB AND phosphor bronze wire...

 

Surely kitbuilding is intended as an alternative to RTR offerings, especially prototypes which are already covered by the RTR market. Maybe its to do with the times. What we can now get out of a box used to require actual modeling skill to achieve. Oh well. Id rather spend my hard earned money on something I can work on rather than a new shiny choo choo train in a blue or red box. Even if it does turn out to be 2 or 3 times the cost...

Edited March 6, 2015 by Spitfire2865