PenrithBeacon Posted September 7, 2014 Share Posted September 7, 2014 (edited) Deleted Edited September 7, 2014 by PenrithBeacon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Enterprisingwestern Posted September 7, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted September 7, 2014 Royal Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Lima Coaches? to Lima CCT's more specifically, but it got a bit long winded, so I edited it! Mike. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold The Stationmaster Posted September 7, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted September 7, 2014 FYI Mike. I don't pay his prices You've got me worried now Mike. I don't charge his prices either. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Porcy Mane Posted September 7, 2014 Share Posted September 7, 2014 (edited) Does it look P4able? I've slipped in a set of Gibson 14mm coach wheels (back to backs set at 17.75mm) with nothing more than mods to the brake blocks. I found the wheels fitted and spun freely with no relieving to the rear of W irons necessary. The Brake assemblies were well glued but I removed them by first removing the body then the top plate of the coupling mechanism. This gave me access to the top surface of the brake block mounting holes which were lightly countersunk. I then used a 1 mm rod in a pin vice to then push out the brake blocks. I next drilled a new set of mounting holes right next to the inner face of the sole bar into which my modified brake blocks were fitted. I modded the blocks by removing the offset part of the moulding but being careful to retain the mounting spigots. This left me with eight individual brake blocks instead of the original 4 assemblies These were fixed into the new mounting holes using hypo glue to ease removal when it comes to eventually fitting sprung W irons. The floor is quite shallow so to fit sprung W irons it looks like a section of the floor will need to be removed and a higher false floor added to achieve the correct ride height. The original W iron would need to be filed away leaving the spring intact. Similar to what's been done to this Van C. Back to the CCT. I'll probably be replacing the vac cylinders as they look to be well under scale and the larger of the V hangers scale out at almost five inches thick so they may be replaced. The bracket holding the voltage regulator to my eye looks a little on the large side and hangs a bit too low so may get altered to be more in line with my Masterclass models example. Also need to make up the missing grab handle from the right hand nearside ends and I'll definitely be replacing the roof vents and adding the roof weld lines. Hope the above doesn't sound to critical as they're minor niggles for what is an excellent model. Thanks Bachmann. Porcy Edited September 7, 2014 by Porcy Mane Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Higgs Posted September 8, 2014 Share Posted September 8, 2014 I've slipped in a set of Gibson 14mm coach wheels (back to backs set at 17.75mm) with nothing more than mods to the brake blocks. I found the wheels fitted and spun freely with no relieving to the rear of W irons necessary. BmannBR-CCT-06-P4sm.jpg The Brake assemblies were well glued but I removed them by first removing the body then the top plate of the coupling mechanism. This gave me access to the top surface of the brake block mounting holes which were lightly countersunk. I then used a 1 mm rod in a pin vice to then push out the brake blocks. I next drilled a new set of mounting holes right next to the inner face of the sole bar into which my modified brake blocks were fitted. I modded the blocks by removing the offset part of the moulding but being careful to retain the mounting spigots. This left me with eight individual brake blocks instead of the original 4 assemblies These were fixed into the new mounting holes using hypo glue to ease removal when it comes to eventually fitting sprung W irons. BmannBR-CCT-09-P4sm.jpg The floor is quite shallow so to fit sprung W irons it looks like a section of the floor will need to be removed and a higher false floor added to achieve the correct ride height. The original W iron would need to be filed away leaving the spring intact. Similar to what's been done to this Van C. HnbyVanCSusp-5-SM.jpg Back to the CCT. I'll probably be replacing the vac cylinders as they look to be well under scale and the larger of the V hangers scale out at almost five inches thick so they may be replaced. The bracket holding the voltage regulator to my eye looks a little on the large side and hangs a bit too low so may get altered to be more in line with my Masterclass models example. Also need to make up the missing grab handle from the right hand nearside ends and I'll definitely be replacing the roof vents and adding the roof weld lines. Hope the above doesn't sound to critical as they're minor niggles for what is an excellent model. Thanks Bachmann. Porcy I have a lot of photos (prototype and model) taken when I did my Masterclass Models kit, including the underframe. They were all on fotopic. Not sure where I could repost them though. Chris Higgs Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Porcy Mane Posted September 8, 2014 Share Posted September 8, 2014 I have a lot of photos (prototype and model) taken when I did my Masterclass Models kit, including the underframe. They were all on fotopic. Not sure where I could repost them though. I'm sure no one would mind if you posted them here? P Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Higgs Posted September 8, 2014 Share Posted September 8, 2014 (edited) I'm sure no one would mind if you posted them here? P Silly me, it is flickr I have them on: https://www.flickr.com/photos/chrishiggs/sets/72157603373896122/ https://www.flickr.com/photos/chrishiggs/sets/72157603397695116/ Chris Edited September 8, 2014 by Chris Higgs 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold tetsudofan Posted September 9, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted September 9, 2014 A few more words about the service received from Invicta Model Rail....... Got my e:mail the day before I disappeared for a weeks holiday, phoned Kerry, gave her my card details and asked if she could delay the despatch to yesterday. No problems she said and, as requested, the package arrived this morning. Keith Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
45059 Posted September 9, 2014 Share Posted September 9, 2014 In a similar vain to tetsudofan's post, I spoke to Kerry on Saturday morning, amended my order as I had made a faux par, and six CCTs arrived this morning. Excellent service, very happy. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grovenor Posted September 9, 2014 Share Posted September 9, 2014 The Brake assemblies were well glued but I removed them by first removing the body then the top plate of the coupling mechanism. This gave me access to the top surface of the brake block mounting holes which were lightly countersunk. I then used a 1 mm rod in a pin vice to then push out the brake blocks. Thanks for that hint, I had not originally tried removing the body, but it did come off reasonably easily after I found the 3 clips on each side, I had to remove the weight as well as the coupling covers to get at all the brake block pins, then only one of my eight succumbed to being pushed, the others I had to drill the pin right out and they will need new pins to go back. removing the blocks completely did free up the wheels fully though. Keith Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cradley Bridge Posted September 11, 2014 Share Posted September 11, 2014 To echo a few of the previous comments re Kerry's/Invicta's service and the model too - I'm yet another happy chappy!! My RTC one turned up this morning and have pre ordered my weathered blue one for when it arrives. Dave Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Enterprisingwestern Posted September 11, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted September 11, 2014 After a trip to the GCR yesterday, if anyone wants any underframe shots give me a shout. Mike. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Colin Posted September 11, 2014 RMweb Premium Share Posted September 11, 2014 ....And another "well done Invicta" comment from me. Exemplary service! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrB Posted September 13, 2014 Share Posted September 13, 2014 All, Just for a comparison, I know they are of different numbers but gives you an idea of the detail differences. First of all the Limby one. Then the Invicta/Bachmann version. Regards Roy 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
drgj Posted September 13, 2014 Share Posted September 13, 2014 In mRB's photos the wheel diameter looks almost the same on both models. I think the Hornby/ Lima model is well finished and not that bad at all. dave Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyman7 Posted September 14, 2014 Share Posted September 14, 2014 Indeed. The Bachmann/Invicta release is welcome but the ex-Lima/Hornby one isn't bad for 30 year old tooling! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Higgs Posted September 14, 2014 Share Posted September 14, 2014 In mRB's photos the wheel diameter looks almost the same on both models. I think the Hornby/ Lima model is well finished and not that bad at all. dave Must be an optical illusion. Unless Bachmann have also got the wheels well undersize :-) The underframe on the Lima is really not good at all, and those that own one will know. However, the body of the Lima model really was rather well done, apart from the glazing. Chris Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigherb Posted September 14, 2014 Share Posted September 14, 2014 The underframe on the Lima is really not good at all, and those that own one will know. However, the body of the Lima model really was rather well done, apart from the glazing. Chris Actually what under frame detail Lima did do I don't think it was that bad, some of it better proportioned, especially that brake lever. Apart from the lack of flush glazing the Lima model one is quite well done. Not sure why they bother fitting close coupling with only marginal gain in distance between the buffers from the old Hornby metal couplings and mine just sit in the extended position after they have gone round a curve making the gap even worse. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cctransuk Posted September 14, 2014 Share Posted September 14, 2014 (edited) Indeed. The Bachmann/Invicta release is welcome but the ex-Lima/Hornby one isn't bad for 30 year old tooling! I couldn't agree more - that was my first reaction when I saw the comparison photo ... .... in which case my detailed Lima CCTs have gained a stay of execution. If you cut off the axleguards and substitute ABS Models cast ones, you can fit 14mm. dia. wheels. Some further simple detailing and you have a model that would pass muster in the same train as a Bachmann CCT. Regards, John Isherwood. Edited September 15, 2014 by cctransuk 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tigger Posted September 15, 2014 Share Posted September 15, 2014 My RTC version arrived today So I thought I would post a couple of piccies A little work and she will be ready to join the rest of the RTC fleet It arrived late because the postie did not leave a card yet again!! If I hadn't have checked it would sit at the Post Office for ever Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SouthernBlue80s Posted September 15, 2014 Share Posted September 15, 2014 I want a 1930s design southern CCT in blue Apart from the Parkside Dundas kit...have any been produced in oo guage over the years? See post 30 here http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/66383-modelling-a-traditional-parcels-train/page-2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben04uk Posted September 15, 2014 Share Posted September 15, 2014 There was a pretty poor Dapol version which you can still get but Bachmann are bringing out 39-528 Ex-Southern CCT Covered Carriage Truck BR Blue soonish... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SouthernBlue80s Posted September 15, 2014 Share Posted September 15, 2014 Good Thanks Ben Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
muddys-blues Posted September 16, 2014 Share Posted September 16, 2014 My RTC version arrived today So I thought I would post a couple of piccies RTC CCT 1.jpgRTC CCT 2.jpg A little work and she will be ready to join the rest of the RTC fleet It arrived late because the postie did not leave a card yet again!! If I hadn't have checked it would sit at the Post Office for ever Stick it on ebay for ...... £90.00 !!!! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dogmatix Posted September 18, 2014 Share Posted September 18, 2014 Not sure why they bother fitting close coupling with only marginal gain in distance between the buffers from the old Hornby metal couplings and mine just sit in the extended position after they have gone round a curve making the gap even worse. Well, try fitting proper close-coupling couplers (Roco or Fleischmann, for example). Close coupling only works if a rigid connection is made. IT DOES NOT WORK with hook-and-bar 'British-style' couplings (Hornby, Bachmann etc) nor with buckeye types (Kadee). If Bachmann have fitted the NEM pockets in the correct standardised position this time, using close-coupling couplers will result in buffer-to-buffer coupling on the straight, extending on curves to avoid buffer locking. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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