Petri Sallinen Posted March 13, 2014 Share Posted March 13, 2014 (EDIT. This topic was originally the question for the locating distance of DG couplings. But like many topics the discussion have moved to new roads and that´s why I have changed the headline of the thread) I am making my first assemblies by using 2MM DG couplings. I am just wondering what is the right locating distance (=assembly height) from the rail head — please let me know if you have the standard or recommendation for that. I am making the DG coupling assemly for bogie coaches as you are able to see in my pictures. Do you typically make the mount of the coupling to the bogie or under the body floor? Petri Helsinki Finland Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bryn Posted March 13, 2014 Share Posted March 13, 2014 Personally, this is how I do it; http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/blog/233/entry-2451-fitting-dgs/ And how I build up the couplings; http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/43748-easy-dg/ Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium nick_bastable Posted March 13, 2014 RMweb Premium Share Posted March 13, 2014 lovely looking coaches please do tell more Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Petri Sallinen Posted March 14, 2014 Author Share Posted March 14, 2014 I thank you for your interest of my models. These are typical Finnish coaches with wooden bodies like we used to make our coaches from the beginning of 1900´s to the end of 1950´s. The model is my own design with etched nickel silver parts and resin casting roof. I have made construction so simple as possible to build because soldering is quite difficult thing to many younger enthusiasts in Finland. I have taken lots of pictures of working phases — here you will find my idea to build the body. I am able to send more pictures of other working phases if you like. Petri Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold queensquare Posted March 14, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 14, 2014 Hi Petri, those coaches are superb and contain a number of ideas in their design and construction which would be really useful whatever prototype is contemplated. I think they are more than worthy of their own thread if you and the moderators could organise it as buried in a question on DG couplings they may not get noticed. They deserve a much wider audience - fabulous stuff. Out of interest, what scale are they - 1:152 or 1:160. Jerry Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium nick_bastable Posted March 14, 2014 RMweb Premium Share Posted March 14, 2014 indeed they are most worthy of a self contained thread the construction method of the ends looks suitable for UK style Pullmans Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Petri Sallinen Posted March 14, 2014 Author Share Posted March 14, 2014 I thank you for your very nice comments (the scale is 1:160). For me it is OK to put pictures in own thread — maybe some of moderators will do that. If you like I am able to carry on showing the rest of the construction of my coach. Petri Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
-missy- Posted March 14, 2014 Share Posted March 14, 2014 As other have said, the coaches are fabulous and I would also love to see more on your modelling. You can edit the original fist post Petri and then change the title to reflect something a little more relevant if you like. Missy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Petri Sallinen Posted March 14, 2014 Author Share Posted March 14, 2014 The underframe of the coach is also very simple. Just make one bending with pliers on both ends of underframe "imitation" — I have drawn small markings outside the frame. On the floor you will find small strips — you have to bend them to the 90 degrees angles. It is easy to assemble the underframe imitation against them. In the same time you have put strips of underframe imitation into the slots that I have drawn in the floor. After that it is easy to solder the underframe imitation from its background to the floor — you might have to press lightly the underframe imitation against the floor. I have designed all soldering points in the coach easy to make them tidy. There are also some backing irons. For them just use 0,4 mm nickel silver wire. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold queensquare Posted March 14, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 14, 2014 There are some really clever design elements here that I think could have lots of applications. I am a fairly competent bodger and am happy to assemble most things but I leave design to people much smarter than me. Jerry Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Petri Sallinen Posted March 15, 2014 Author Share Posted March 15, 2014 Until I carry on with photos I would like to introduce my very simple three point suspension I have used in this coach. The simple idea is that the other bolster is lower and there is the washer between bogie frame and bolster. Please look at my drawing. When you are painting the model please do not paint the surface of bolster and the upside of bogie — you are also able to lubricate these sides lightly so the bogie will turn well against the bolster. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Petri Sallinen Posted March 15, 2014 Author Share Posted March 15, 2014 For the bogie mounting you have to solder the brass nut inside the body. You are able to lubricate the screw and after that the solder will not grip on it when soldering. As I showed before the other bolster is lower for making the simple three point suspension. It is very easy to solder bolsters to the body floor. I think my bogies are very traditional. I suppose that brass bearing cups are same as you are using in 2MM Society — these are made by Parkside Dundas. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Petri Sallinen Posted March 15, 2014 Author Share Posted March 15, 2014 I have designed models for my friends who are using Rapido couplings or continental style NEM-couplings. For the coupling assembly I have drawn the box that has to be solder to the bogie frame. After that is it easy to slide the NEM-pocket made by Dapol inside the box. With Dapol made NEM-pocket you are able to use what ever couplings you like with NEM-shaft. Personally I do not like NEM-pocket because it is quite big and ugly but in the same time I understand that it is very easy for assembly. I will design the new bogie frame for the DG coupling assembly — I think that I am going to use DG couplings in my own models. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Petri Sallinen Posted March 15, 2014 Author Share Posted March 15, 2014 Here is some words about the assembly of roof. I have made resin casting roofs myself — I think that you also know resin casting technique very well so I am not going to write more about that (we have used this technique here in Finland from the end of 1970´s and almost every enthusiasts know that very well; in Scaleforum 2013 exhibition I saw very interesting workshop of making resin castings). For the roof assembly I have used 2mm socket set screws. First you have to make markings to the roof by using the ready made body. Then just make holes for socket set screws. You are also able to make threads by the tap if you like but this is not necessary — the tight hole for the screw is enough. If you made in some reason loose hole then just glue the socket set screw with syano glue. Here is the idea of assembly the roof with 2mm nuts across the floor with the small driver — and that´s why I have drawn three big holes in the floor. If you like to unfasten the roof then you first have to unfasten bogies — but I think this is not very big problem Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
-missy- Posted March 15, 2014 Share Posted March 15, 2014 Thank you for posting these Petri. I am finding this thread fascinating. M Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tricky-CRS Posted March 15, 2014 Share Posted March 15, 2014 Stunning coaches, truly brilliant thank you for sharing. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Petri Sallinen Posted March 15, 2014 Author Share Posted March 15, 2014 Stairs are always quite complicated. Typically stairs consist of several separate parts (yes — they might look like better but they are also very difficult to build) but this time I designed it consist only one part. I have drawn small markings for bending points so it is very easy to build it. Next time I will use thinner nickel silver for stairs. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold SHMD Posted March 15, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 15, 2014 Petri, Thank you very much for these well described and beautifully illustrated construction methods for your own coaches. A true inspiration to us all and an example of what RMweb can be at its very best. Kev. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Petri Sallinen Posted March 15, 2014 Author Share Posted March 15, 2014 The bogie assembly is very simple. As I have wrote earlier I have left sliding surfaces of bolsters and bogies clear. You might lubricate surfaces lightly. These are parts needed for the bogie assembly. The bigger washer is used only with the lower bolster (=between bogie frame and bolster) The smaller washer is used with the screw. Start arranging the tube on its place (actually it is the reducing sleeve OD1/8"ID2mmL3mm made by Alan Gibson or maybe I have to say Colin Seymore ) After that you are able to put the bigger washer on its place (but only on the lower bolster) And after that bogies and screws with smaller washers. There have to be some backlash with bogies — this depends on how long tube you are using. The simple three point suspension gives very smooth running to the coach. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Petri Sallinen Posted March 15, 2014 Author Share Posted March 15, 2014 Petri, Thank you very much for these well described and beautifully illustrated construction methods for your own coaches. A true inspiration to us all and an example of what RMweb can be at its very best. Kev. Thank you Kev and all the others for your comments. I typically used to take lots of pictures when I am making models — I have all the time the camera and tripod near my working place. Pictures are documentation for me what have I done or thought. The big amount of pictures also helps me to explain my ideas — especially when I am communicate with my terrible bad English Petri Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Kris Posted March 15, 2014 RMweb Premium Share Posted March 15, 2014 Fantastic walk through. How have you shaped the roof? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Petri Sallinen Posted March 15, 2014 Author Share Posted March 15, 2014 Fantastic walk through. How have you shaped the roof? The master for the roof was made by traditional handwork (=thick polystyrene and cutting and polishing tools ), but you have to make only half of the roof. After that you are able to make the silicone mold and when you have cast two halves in resin just glue them together and you will have the master for the complete roof. Now you are able to make the mold for making complete roof and after making casting in resin you are able to make the sand coating (like we had in Finnish coaches) for the part. This is typically the ultimate master you need for making roofs bigger amounts with resin casting technique — you are also able to make holes for torpedo ventilators or other detailing for masters before making molds. I have about ten masters for different versions of roofs. This sounds complicated but it is not. Resin casting is very easy way. Nowadays 3D-technique is also one possible way to make masters. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
John lewsey Posted March 15, 2014 Share Posted March 15, 2014 These really are lovely models I'm really impressed thank you for showing us John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Petri Sallinen Posted March 16, 2014 Author Share Posted March 16, 2014 Painting is still left. I think that I have nothing special for painting — for painting I use only airbrush (not spray bottles even for priming) and car colors. I used to buy primer in jars so it is easy to thinner the paint as you like and in my opinion well made airbrush is much more better than spray cans. Essential colors are also made for car painting and the type of paints is two component so you have to add the hardener yourself. I like these paints very much because they are so much better than model paints and I am also able to get what ever color I need (they make me the right color when I giving them the sample of Finnish railroad color). I use only gloss paints. For the finish I use satin or matte varnish — my varnishes are also for car using and by adding matte paste you are able to regulate how gloss, satin or matte surface you will get. Typically I make the shank from the styrofoam sheet that helps me keep parts in my hand when I am painting with airbrush. The shank is easy to glue to parts with two sided tape. The two sided tape is also suitable way to keep small part on its place as you will see in my photos. Small parts on the two sided tape will help painting. First I typically paint walls and after that I make masks using Tamiya made masking tape. After that it is easy to paint underframe dark grey with airbrush. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold SHMD Posted March 16, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 16, 2014 Hi Petri, Are you sure about the orientation of this thing? (It depends upon what it is though.) If it is a generator (or dynamo) for the carriage lighting (and batteries), then it should be turned through 90 degrees to allow a belt to drive the pulley on the end, from the nearest wheel axle on the bogie. (Although I am not suggesting that you change them on your lovely completed examples. Check first!! I was thinking more for future builds.) Kev. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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