Jump to content

Twright

Twright's 4mm CAD workbench - Series 2 Land Rover

Recommended Posts

Hi all

 

I have moved this over from my workbench thread as it is more suitable here. I started a freelance 0-4-0 GWR pannier but as the cabs were the same, Zane/69843 (who inspired me to try 3D printing) gave me a copy of some 16xx plans, both the 0-4-0 and 16xx panniers will be done in tandem as they will share many parts.

 

This where I am at:

 

post-19880-0-16421100-1395426303_thumb.jpg

 

post-19880-0-23699000-1395426286_thumb.jpg

 

post-19880-0-48158600-1395426284.jpg

 

They will have custom chassis although I will adapt a version of the 0-4-0 to fit on the Hornby 0-4-0 body.

Edited by Twright
  • Like 9

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have now added the firebox and the start of the tanks, plus the basis of the backhead so there is plenty of space for the motor. 

 

post-19880-0-65140900-1395856120_thumb.jpg

 

post-19880-0-92082500-1395856121_thumb.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

For me, no doubt that 3D is the future of modelling. Even more so, when we see it being done by a 15 year old. The future of the hobby is in good hands I think.

 

I wish I could master CAD!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

For me, no doubt that 3D is the future of modelling. Even more so, when we see it being done by a 15 year old. The future of the hobby is in good hands I think.

 

I wish I could master CAD!

 

Thank you very much.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Now that's really starting to look like a 1600. Well done!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Nice!  I scratchbuilt a 1600 from old brass sheet and plastikard when i was 15.  It looks ok, although the chassis, which was filed from two lengths of brass curtain track sweated together, never ran well, and I eventually used an old Tri-Ang Jinty chassis with the Romford wheels in that.  I turned the chimney, dome and safety valve covers from 15Amp round brass plug pins on a school lathe.  The only bought component was a Ks 14xx smokebox door.  

Edited by exet1095
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Tom,

Depending on the level of detail that you are looking for the rectangle between the back of the smokebox and the front of the fire box, the width of the firebox should be fresh air.

 

Watching with interest.

 

Gordon A

Bristol

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Tom,

Depending on the level of detail that you are looking for the rectangle between the back of the smokebox and the front of the fire box, the width of the firebox should be fresh air.

 

Watching with interest.

 

Gordon A

Bristol

 

Thanks. As I haven't started the chassis yet, It is just based on a plain solid base, when I start the chassis, I will open it up.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Tom,

 

It's looking good, I shall watch progress with interest. On my way back from the UK last week, I dropped in on the SVR, where 1638 was on duty. They are certainly very nice little locos.

 

post-7952-0-46671600-1395941260_thumb.jpg

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Tom,

 

It's looking good, I shall watch progress with interest. On my way back from the UK last week, I dropped in on the SVR, where 1638 was on duty. They are certainly very nice little locos.

 

attachicon.gifArley 01w.jpg

 

Thanks, that picture may come in handy.

 

On a side note, I'm also thinking about making a variation with the spark arresting chimney such as the one here.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have now made the changes to the tanks and have hollowed out the inside of them (they are now at 1.5mm - is this enough?). I have also started the chimney and raised the running board so that the characteristic low boiler is achieved.

 

post-19880-0-56092200-1395954908_thumb.jpg

 

post-19880-0-30788300-1395954910_thumb.jpg

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have now made the changes to the tanks and have hollowed out the inside of them (they are now at 1.5mm - is this enough?). I have also started the chimney and raised the running board so that the characteristic low boiler is achieved.

 

attachicon.gif16xx 2 e.jpg

 

attachicon.gif16xx 1 e.jpg

It is all dependant on the thickness of the material planned. Despite the higher cost, FUD can take walls as thin as .6 of a mm

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks, that picture may come in handy.

 

On a side note, I'm also thinking about making a variation with the spark arresting chimney such as the one here.

The spark arresting chimney would make a good separate piece to be included with it. I was looking into doing one for the 57XX myself, but might leave that in your capable hands now

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The spark arresting chimney would make a good separate piece to be included with it. I was looking into doing one for the 57XX myself, but might leave that in your capable hands now

 

I might make the chimneys separate so either can be fitted but I don't want to do something that you could do.

 

It is all dependant on the thickness of the material planned. Despite the higher cost, FUD can take walls as thin as .6 of a mm

 

Thanks, I have been trying to make it thick enough so it is strong enough to be dropped (anticipating accidents) and not be too badly damaged. Up until now I've been designing it to be able to be printed in the standard white plastic safely, but I may change a few things now.

Edited by Twright

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Don't make the walls too thin.  You may find that someone wants to make one in a different scale, H0 or even 3.5rmm. and if you make the walls minimum thickness then scaling down will be impossible because it would take the wall thickness below what is printable.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Don't make the walls too thin.  You may find that someone wants to make one in a different scale, H0 or even 3.5rmm. and if you make the walls minimum thickness then scaling down will be impossible because it would take the wall thickness below what is printable.

 

Good point, I was going to leave the walls at 1.5mm but I was going to make the running board a bit thinner.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If you make the wall thickness parametric that problem goes away - but that depends a lot on the tools. I try and keep to about 1mm for any reasonable length of flat surface. Curves are strong as always.

 

I have taken N gauge walls down to the FUD limit in order to get bodies over chassis but it gets touchier and you often need extra bracing to make it print without going out of shape.

 

1mm is also a good number if you ever want to print one in brass - not cheap! but does great things for weight.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If you make the wall thickness parametric that problem goes away - but that depends a lot on the tools. I try and keep to about 1mm for any reasonable length of flat surface. Curves are strong as always.

 

I have taken N gauge walls down to the FUD limit in order to get bodies over chassis but it gets touchier and you often need extra bracing to make it print without going out of shape.

 

1mm is also a good number if you ever want to print one in brass - not cheap! but does great things for weight.

 

Thanks for that information

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Looking good, might have to buy one from you! 

 

Thanks, you've got time to save up though, although at the moment in white plastic it only costs £17 (FUD is £45).

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sorry for the lack of updates, but there hasn't been any decent progress for a while. I have done the dome now apart from where it joins the tank tops

 

post-19880-0-81629700-1397412742.jpg

 

This is made up of 900 small squares so when printed it should be fairly smooth.

  • Like 4

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...