RMweb Gold 57xx Posted September 19, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted September 19, 2014 I only stumbled on this thread a couple of days ago. You done a cracking job with the 16xx and the lamp/bucket set looks great. I'd like to offer another suggestion to further improve the 16xx. If you look at the pic that Miss Prism on the first page (#5), you can see good detail of the front cab windows. Getting them the right shape would improve the looks no end. Add the radiused corners and close the top part across the front (you'll notice that the windows do not go up to, nor follow the line of the roof), maybe lower them a bit towards the tanks too. Keep up the good work! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twright Posted September 19, 2014 Author Share Posted September 19, 2014 Thanks. Having started to assemble it there are a few other things that I would like to change so I know it will reliably print. If anyone else spots any problems or would like pictures of areas that they have doubts about to check please say, I can then change it and order it again. When I get a chance I will motorize the chassis and see if there are any problems there. So far the only problems are (* means I think I've sorted it) Lamp irons* Guard irons* Front cab windows Rear NEM socket* Some pictures: This is about the correct amount of difference between the cabs of the 8750 and 1600 panniers The gearbox arrangement, with 3 cogs missing. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted September 19, 2014 Share Posted September 19, 2014 Pt2 - the 16xx I cleaned the cogs on the gearbox up with a cocktailstick as there was still some wax on them, other than that they are as they came out of the box. The only damage was 2 of the lamp irons on the front and the 2 front guard irons (for want of a better term) for the wheels, both of which were damaged in transit/factory handling but probably due to the walls being too near the limit for WSF. Depending on opinion, I might alter this and then put it for sale but if you (those interested) don't mind then I will put it up anyway. Anyway pictures: IMG_0857.JPG All of the cogs IMG_0859.JPG 4 of them in the gearbox, this does actually turn and reduce the speed of the cogs, I only tested it by hand not having connected the motor up yet. IMG_0863.JPG The chassis and detail bits such as doors and coupling hooks. The NEM pockets do accept the Bachmann type, I haven't tried Hornby. IMG_0866.JPG IMG_0867.JPG IMG_0868.JPG IMG_0870.JPG The loco with the smokebox only resting on the front. When I get a chance, I will put the loco together properly and hopefully do a running video. That looks highly encouraging. Let me know when the 16xx and gearbox go on sale. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twright Posted September 20, 2014 Author Share Posted September 20, 2014 I will. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twright Posted September 21, 2014 Author Share Posted September 21, 2014 Unfortunately, the gearbox failed today while I was test running it. The bevel gears weren't engaging and the cogs connected by an axle split from each other. This means that I will have to have a rethink about the gearbox, and may go back to a standard worm gear type if I can't get the bevels working. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted September 21, 2014 Share Posted September 21, 2014 Bevels should work. You may want to think about: 1. Moving the centres until they mate properly; or 2. Increasing the size of the bevels. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordon A Posted September 21, 2014 Share Posted September 21, 2014 Hi Tom, 1) Which axle are you driving on to? Looks like the middle one - in which case is the gearbox visible on a side on eye level view? 2) Whats the dimension between the splasher faces from one side to the other? 3) Why the raised base for the cab side number plate. I think an etched number plate will work out at about scale thickness? 4) The hand rail knob holes look a bit on the large side? Gordon A Bristol Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted September 22, 2014 Share Posted September 22, 2014 Also, if the connected cogs have separated from each other, can they not be glued back together? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twright Posted September 22, 2014 Author Share Posted September 22, 2014 Bevels should work. You may want to think about: 1. Moving the centres until they mate properly; or 2. Increasing the size of the bevels. They did work for a bit (until the other cog broke) but the tolerances on the spindles were too great so it kept moving over and disengaging also because they are only about 2.5mm across, there isn't very much for them to lock together on. The break was also a clean break so there is nothing to show where it was so it can't be aligned. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twright Posted September 22, 2014 Author Share Posted September 22, 2014 Thanks for taking the time to reply 1) Which axle are you driving on to? Looks like the middle one - in which case is the gearbox visible on a side on eye level view? It is but it is where the ashpan is so it doesn't look out of place, the cogs aren't visible below it either. http://www.gw-svr-a.org.uk/images/1638-3_600px.jpg 2) Whats the dimension between the splasher faces from one side to the other? Inside it is 24mm, does this sound right? 3) Why the raised base for the cab side number plate. I think an etched number plate will work out at about scale thickness? Alan Buttler requested them to help line up cabside number plates, it is only raised by 0.2mm, which is the minimum needed to show up in this material. 4) The hand rail knob holes look a bit on the large side? They look it but it is a tight fit to get Alan Gibson knobs in. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordon A Posted September 22, 2014 Share Posted September 22, 2014 Thanks Tom. Gordon A Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twright Posted October 31, 2014 Author Share Posted October 31, 2014 I've remodeled the front of the cab, does this look better? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Killybegs Posted November 1, 2014 Share Posted November 1, 2014 Pictures Pt1 - Lamps and Buckets, the chassis for the Fowler 421 and Simplexes These are as they came out of the box. Lamps and Buckets: IMG_0845.JPG The buckets is about 4mm in diameter as a guide Chassis for the Fowler 421: IMG_0848.JPG There are 2 as I will be making one and so will a friend of mine. These won't be for sale unless there are requests for it. Simplexes: IMG_0850.JPG IMG_0853.JPG IMG_0856.JPG The front cab support was damaged in transit but it was a simple matter of just moving the upright back. The cabless simplex failed the manual check (someone had forgotten to check that it was all one mesh before sending it in ) I bought some of your lamps and am well pleased with them. John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold 57xx Posted November 1, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 1, 2014 That looks a lot better Tom. Are you able to put a small radius in each corner of the window? That would really be the icing on the cake. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheWeatheringMan Posted November 1, 2014 Share Posted November 1, 2014 The spark arresting chimney would make a good separate piece to be included with it. I was looking into doing one for the 57XX myself, but might leave that in your capable hands now Hi 69843, I know you post was a while ago now but I wondered if this might be of any interest to you still. About two years ago I wanted to modify two of my Bachmann 57xx / 8750 pannier tanks to spark arrestor fitted examples and in the absence of a replacement chimney from the trade I produced a batch of turned brass s-a chimneys in my own workshop. I still have some left so if you needed one PM me and we can arrange something. Regards Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
69843 Posted November 1, 2014 Share Posted November 1, 2014 Hi 69843, I know you post was a while ago now but I wondered if this might be of any interest to you still. About two years ago I wanted to modify two of my Bachmann 57xx / 8750 pannier tanks to spark arrestor fitted examples and in the absence of a replacement chimney from the trade I produced a batch of turned brass s-a chimneys in my own workshop. I still have some left so if you needed one PM me and we can arrange something. Regards Good grief, I'd nearly forgotten about that post! I don't actually need one myself sadly, so I'm going to have to pass. Thank you for the offer though Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twright Posted November 2, 2014 Author Share Posted November 2, 2014 I bought some of your lamps and am well pleased with them. John Good, I'm glad they've gone to a good home. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twright Posted November 2, 2014 Author Share Posted November 2, 2014 That looks a lot better Tom. Are you able to put a small radius in each corner of the window? That would really be the icing on the cake. I hadn't got round to doing that at the time but it will be done. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hancockshire Posted November 8, 2014 Share Posted November 8, 2014 I am now aching to buy this & build it, can't wait for it to be made available Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twright Posted November 8, 2014 Author Share Posted November 8, 2014 Sorry to keep you waiting, I now only have to added radius corners on the cab, alter the cab steps slightly and modify the gear box before getting a test print, it's just finding the time to do it. I will keep everyone updated. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twright Posted November 15, 2014 Author Share Posted November 15, 2014 I have got the 16xx ready for another test print (except thin walls), you can see the cab window radius here: The gearbox has been redesigned to have (hopefully) working bevel gears however it has messed up my reduction so its now only at 16:1 instead of 48:1 so that will need fixing before it's ready, I hope to solve that tomorrow. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twright Posted November 16, 2014 Author Share Posted November 16, 2014 The gearbox has now got a reduction of 27:1 which is better, still fast but difficult to get anything better in. (shown as they will be printed) Edit: The order has been placed now so they will hopefully arrive around the end of November. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twright Posted December 3, 2014 Author Share Posted December 3, 2014 A bit later than I hoped but I hit a few problems. The prints arrived today and so the Cabless Simplex has been made available to sell (together with the 2 other types). I will take pictures of them all later today and so the 16xx should (if it all works as I hope) be available to buy by the end of this week, but I might have to extend this if it doesn't all work as planned. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twright Posted December 3, 2014 Author Share Posted December 3, 2014 The promised pictures: I am part way through adding the bearings and gearbox to the chassis to see if it will run. The simplex: Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
69843 Posted December 4, 2014 Share Posted December 4, 2014 Looks excellent mate-well done Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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