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A powered Armstrong Whitworth D9 - plans included.


JCL
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  • RMweb Gold
2 hours ago, woko said:

Thats turned out rather lovely dude, some cracking 3d printing sir! Hows the Mono X working out so far?

 

Really good. Two duff prints so far, one because the UV light source was set at 50%, and it needed to be at about 80% for me, and the other was when I attempted to use the resin from my old printer in the new one. They didn't get along too well.

 

Just finished the body. I'm going to set it off to print this afternoon, so hopefully there will be something to show in the morning

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  • RMweb Gold

Hi all

 

well it *looks* like it’s printed properly. Difficult to tell, as it’s clear resin. It took 4 hours in the end.

 

on the build plate, draining

 

5B2311AF-0B8E-4331-9B54-CA85010A54D9.jpeg.36391104905d7b1224a19bc0a2b3e4c3.jpeg
 

it’s the right shape, if nothing else!
 

9B61FBD1-9721-4BA7-92D1-C27FB1DA8712.jpeg.12de73e6a35b8cad8b4f1dad78aa592e.jpeg
 

the other lump will be the fan

 

31CA480D-CED9-4ABA-B5E3-5C7A12AEE8A3.jpeg.6cee402c35c423af36666799c00c6c38.jpeg

 

I’ll drain it overnight, then detach it in the morning, clean it up, and wash the gunk off. Then I’ll be able to work out what I have.

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  • RMweb Gold

Morning everyone

 

Ive washed the body off and tried it on the chassis for size, and it looks pretty good. There’s some stepping in the roof and bonnet on the other end, but that’s down to printing it parallel to the build plate.

 

I’ll be running a second print of the chassis, as it looks like the mount point on one nd of the bogie is slightly lower than the other end. I wouldn’t go as far as saying it looks like a drag racer, but there’s a broken shocks look about it. :) Normally I’d shim it, but if I’m going to give the file to someone else, it should be right.

 

Ponies done, so should all be printed, cured, and undercoated by the end of the weekend. On the ponies, I’ll put them in the file, but it might be worth making up some stronger ones if adding couplings (thanks Dave and Mike).
 

Good news is that it has the right ride height - that is, the buffers line up with the ones on the newer Hornby teaks.

 

A921F04E-F8A5-4D1C-96F1-7B30CB3D32F0.jpeg.1de26663e3e3bbc8c5f7386c9c90c21a.jpeg

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That looks solid Jason, i would give it a swift spray of grey primer, i always find it helps to spot any issues with the prints  and brings out the detail when printing with clear resins! Plus it looks awesome dude :)

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  • RMweb Gold
On 29/11/2020 at 08:59, xm607 said:

Brilliant job, will it be available to buy through Shapeways for example?

 

Hi @xm607, thank you. I was going to, but I've been talking to someone on here who would be able to do a more reasonably priced job of making them. I'll let you know when I know.

The first photo shows a mounting point - and the dirty underbelly of the model in all its glory. I couldn't get my fingers into the area above the bar to add the nut for the bolt (you can see where I've chipped away at the dividing wall), so I'm redoing this and adding a housing for the nut, in that way, it's a case of just slipping it in and leaving it there.

 

IMG_6578.jpg.44e83f56c5b15f7fb8a4a87c086c97ee.jpg

 

I've also blasted the model with some undercoat. I haven't sanded anything, so this is how it came out the printer. I'm pleased with most of it, but I think the strapping (for want of a better word) is too pronounced, so I'll pull that back very slightly. I might do the same with the louvres.

 

IMG_6571.jpg.1f171f8e4f24a4efbeaa76b73eb80f4e.jpg

 

IMG_6574.jpg.c3e3968d049d1b720ffcbd8e2622d2aa.jpg

 

Fine lines on the roof. The model was printed on the coarsest setting without antialiasing, so this was expected. I also need to provide a method to slide some gauze between the roof and the fan. This will hopefully get rid of the need to provide drainage holes.

 

IMG_6576.jpg.bbb3db63d3c29229bbd9922643253e6f.jpg

 

Lamp iron broken already, so I'll leave the mount there, and for mine at least, I'll use staples on the next body.

 

IMG_6577.jpg.ddd40a327b7b083f4db66a02fc0a49ec.jpg

 

I tried printing the bogies yesterday, but they failed, so I've a calibration model in the printer at the moment. Once I've checked that, I'll try them again, then I'll redo the other parts.

 

Edited by JCL
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That's looking really good! I'm impressed, well done! Especially as you've tried printing it on a new printer you're not fully familiar with yet. Much easier to see it with a bit of primer on.

 

There are bound to be some little tweaks to do as printing the model shows up some issues. Sounds as if they are easily sorted though.

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1 minute ago, Dave John said:

Interesting. I'm thinking about a printer and watching what is happening. I'm impressed with the way that has come out. 

Do it Dave its the best thing ever im hooked I have 4 now!!  ;) :) 

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  • RMweb Gold
1 hour ago, Dave John said:

Interesting. I'm thinking about a printer and watching what is happening. I'm impressed with the way that has come out. 

 

Hi Dave

 

You'll have read that I'm in Canada, so I'm not exactly in the centre of things when it comes to buying British models. Also, I like to do things myself and seeing how things work, so when 3D printers came down in price to the point of me being able to get one, I jumped at it.

 

If you've not tried 3D modelling before, I'd have a look at TinkerCAD or something similar (people also use Sketchup and Fusion 360) to see if you enjoy drawing up models. If you really want to pull your hair out, you can join me and download Blender. 

 

I had a Peopoly Moai before this one, and it was perfect for people that like to mess with machines. I enjoy seeing what can and can't be done on a printer, but I'm well past the time when I want to tinker with a machine for the sake of it. Since then, I've found the Anycubic Photon Mono X a dream in comparison.

 

The printer has been great for those bits and pieces that you can't buy. The model above is one, but I've also knocked out a GNR railcar, NER railcar, the older GNR style cab for the Bachmann LNER K3 and a scanned and printed model of the garden gnome that used to be in my mum's garden until it came with us.

 

If you want to see the sort of things people print, have a look at Mike's thread on here in the 3D section - there's a lot of info on there!

 

cheers

 

Jason

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  • RMweb Gold

It’s been quiet while I’ve been waiting for my grey resin. I’m not sure the clear was a good idea for someone new to the Anycubic way of doing things. while waiting for it, I made some changes based on the first print, namely some angled bracing on each end, and some nut housings for the pony pivot points.
 

Anyway, the good news is that the resin turned up while I was out yesterday. I couldn’t wait, so I set the chassis printing overnight at 0.035mm layer height, and it’s come out really well. It just needs a light sand on the top layer to flatten any support points, and squaring up a bit at the ends.

 

The body is being printed at the moment. It also has some amendments. The main ones are:

 

- a slot to push the the mesh into over the fan

- nut holders in the cabs at each end to make putting it go ether easier

- thinner walls around the side windows

 

 So it’ll be interesting to see how that comes out!

 

Something for tomorrow :)


93F58C12-D86A-46AD-AA48-146317BEA45A.jpeg.240d0b4b424f29bb46e88597de93a7d1.jpeg

 

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  • RMweb Gold

Hi all

 

it printed and I’ve washed the body. It’s ok, but could be better. I printed it with thinner layers, and turned on something called antialiasing, which should help with lines, but it has also removed a lot of the detail. The lines could be helped by angling it, but I think they are very shallow, and I think 10 minutes with a bit of sandpaper will do the job. 
 

I’ll print it again tomorrow without antialiasing switched on, and print the pony trucks at the same time.

 

Always learning!
 

Cheers

 

Jason

 

E4C70A02-6202-4C1B-8FB1-C3EB93892F3E.jpeg.0f7e2f4bdf99778ee1c8f615f8ecb650.jpeg

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  • RMweb Gold

Hi all

 

Although I’m about done, there is a warning - there’s not much play on those bogies, so I’m up for any thoughts you might have.

 

Apart from that, If there’s nothing else, I’ll make the files available over the weekend.

 

The model below has been bolted together - those nut housings made a huge difference, although I did use tweezers for the nuts in the cabs I used 1/2” 8AB bolts, because I have them. The bogie wheels for now are standard Bachman or Hornby wagon wheels. I’m going to cure this one with a UV lamp before I undercoat it.


As I say, I’m still learning how to use this printer, and I feel the clear resin has given a sharper finish than the grey. I’ll know more once it’s cured and undercoated.

 

cheers

 

Jason

 

42777DF9-F09D-4B3B-A0A7-6CD68A1A5138.jpeg.f0c97e8ba10aca63a0e82ec627a1b4f7.jpeg

 

FC8D12C2-3D1D-4103-B6CD-C8DE84896F3C.jpeg.bc72fbf31c82b06d1e3d895b67d9d266.jpeg
 

The bogies

 

D025C801-B233-4A2E-8C8C-62F89C5050B0.jpeg.91d76c11ef092dcca0534aca5d7f6484.jpeg

 

 

Edited by JCL
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  • 2 weeks later...
  • RMweb Gold

Hi everyone, I had to make some adjustments so that holes didn't have to be reamed for nuts and bolts, but the model is finished now - just before Christmas. This evening I've sent it off to @Knuckles to check the files. If it all works out, then hopefully he'll be able to print them.

 

Also, for anyone that has a printer, an Anycubic Wash and Cure arrived in the post today. Good lord it makes life a lot easier/cleaner/safer!

 

Fingers crossed.

 

cheers

 

Jason

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  • 1 month later...
On 19/12/2020 at 08:04, JCL said:

Hi everyone, I had to make some adjustments so that holes didn't have to be reamed for nuts and bolts, but the model is finished now - just before Christmas. This evening I've sent it off to @Knuckles to check the files. If it all works out, then hopefully he'll be able to print them.

 

Also, for anyone that has a printer, an Anycubic Wash and Cure arrived in the post today. Good lord it makes life a lot easier/cleaner/safer!

 

Fingers crossed.

 

cheers

 

Jason

what's the progress on this project? I for one am very interested in the prospect of printing one out in parts to make a D9 in 7mm scale

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  • RMweb Gold

Morning,

 

I've been doing some 4mm test prints and it all seems to have worked out well. I've a busy week, but I can upload the stl files next weekend - here if I can, but if I can't I'll put them on Thingiverse and then link to them. There will be 5 parts:

  • body
  • chassis
  • pony trucks x 2
  • fan

cheers

 

Jason

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  • 1 month later...
  • RMweb Gold

A lot of things have happened since my last post, but I've finally managed to find the time to upload the STL files. Unfortunately they're a bit too big for here, and RMWeb doesn't allow zip files, so to get around this, I've uploaded the files to my Google Drive account.

 

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1d2Z2UvWY1TERnnSIdv12fp14ZI5tZgDB?usp=sharing

 

The bogie wheels I used were Bachmann wagon wheels; the buffers I stole from my earlier attempt with the Silhouette, and I think they came from Wizard Models. If used, the Hornby motor bogie, which is a friction fit, slides between the frames and is held at the right height by bracing.  There are boxes to hold nuts for 8BA bolts at each end, and for each of the bogies. The partitions mean they're a bit fiddly, but I pushed the nuts in with tweezers. There is a guide hole in the exhaust duct if you want to ream it out to have the fan spinning, and there is a slot between the top of the exhaust duct and the inside of the roof for some mesh.

If you're printing it in resin, you should find all holes are the right size, but if not, don't use bigger drills bits as they have too much bite and could crack your model. Use reamers instead. I'm thinking about the holes for the 8BA bolts here.

 

Wheels: https://www.Bachmann.co.uk/product/metal-spoked-wagon-wheels-(x10)/36-014

 

Big old disclaimer coming up! Please note that the model tolerances are designed for my printer, and you might find that you need to do a bit of sanding depending on how you print yours, or have yours printed. You'll definitely need to sand around the chassis arches to make sure the bogies swing far enough for your curves. Also, I've not looked at them for ages, so please give the files a good check over before you print them.

 

Please don't post the files anywhere else. :)

 

Finally, if you put one together, please let me know how you got on/take a photo.

 

cheers

 

Jason

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  • 2 months later...

Many thanks for this. I passed the file to my son to print for me and today as my Father's Day gift I got the resin prints! He cut the bodyshell in half to get a suitable orientation in his home printer and made an internal box sleeve to line up the 2 halves for joining alignment.

 

The chassis frame has bowed a bit in the vertical plane but will have a thick brass plate so should straighten. Mine will be P4 so will have a gear driven powertrain, but will have to wait a while behind other projects.

 

All your hard work is very much appreciated.

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