Jump to content
 

A powered Armstrong Whitworth D9 - plans included.


JCL
 Share

Recommended Posts

D9 had three outings on the main line over the weekend at the Warley show.

 

post-17012-0-50707700-1416773087_thumb.jpg

 

She finished the running for the show and had almost every wagon we had that was age appropriate and she handled them with ease and just a little slipping on what by the end of the day was a very oily track following two days of steam running.

 

Lots of jobs still to do and shes a long way from finished, but she ran well for a first real outing so should only get better.

  • Like 8
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...
  • RMweb Gold

Hi there, an old thread, but I've found a really good photo of the pony truck in the Engineer and I thought I'd add it to here as it's not often you see a photo like this. Also they were sat on tracks of various gauges.

 

post-14192-0-49582500-1464049044_thumb.jpg

 

Also, on Ebay I also saw an N scale body shell in resin for sale http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Parkwood-Models-Armstrong-Whitworth-Universal-diesel-body-shell-/172214291409?hash=item2818c58bd1:g:FL4AAOSwEOxXP~Cp , which I think was built by someone on this forum. It looks to have been snapped up pretty quickly. :)

 

cheers

 

Jason

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 3 months later...
  • 4 months later...
  • RMweb Gold

Another update. I was on eBay the other day and won a photo of the Universal Loco. I don't have the A-W book to hand, but I can't say I've ever seen this one before, so in the spirit of friendliness and such I thought I'd upload it here.

 

post-14192-0-39110000-1485152754_thumb.jpg

 

I see it's missing an axle. The writing on it apparently says it's a view of the loco when it was brand new.

Edited by JCL
  • Like 4
  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 3 years later...
  • 3 months later...
  • RMweb Gold

I can't leave this loco alone.

 

I've decided to put my experience of 3D printing into building another version of the D9. I've made a start and got some of the more difficult parts done - radiator, louvres, and provisionally the roof. I'll have to tweak the roof to make the edges right. I'm putting more work in to the area between the radiators - partly because you would be able to see it below the fan, and it also helps strengthen the sides. I'm also going to see if there is any value to doing the ponies properly per the photo further up.

 

A fair bit of this will be educated guesses at dimensions, but when it is finished, I'll bung it on the 3D model library called Thingiverse for people to download, and I'll put it on Shapeways if anyone is interested.

 

It's early stages, and will take a while, but I'll update this thread when I've done enough modelling on it. There's a lot wrong with it at the moment, but later, if possible, it'll be good to get some critique to make sure I'm not going off at a tangent.

 

cheers

 

Jason

 

 

3D print v 1.jpg

 

3D print v 1 inside.jpg

Edited by JCL
English.
  • Like 10
  • Craftsmanship/clever 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

Thank you Wagpnmaster. I managed to get a bit more in this evening. Redid the roof and added various strips. The tall thin ones (which will have bolts on them) are just behind the fan enclosure and then at the other end. I've guessed at the second after looking again at the photo of the engine being hoisted out. 

 

Also tidied up the bonnet, added some windows, and started rivets (fully counted!). I think detailing the two ends will be next.

 

34827759_3Dprintv2.jpg.6f0a90b4be19cfde773445747e297705.jpg

 

Edited by JCL
  • Like 4
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

I'm looking at the isothermos axleboxes at the moment, and I'm a bit stumped. I have photos of the front, but not of the engineering that takes place behind it. I've a poor (pixelated with high compression) photo of the side of the loco.

axleboxes.jpg.103ad2c3505574af310aae690b33d3f6.jpg

 

Which I've started recreating below. The springs need replacing, but should the main box in white be cylindrical to echo the front cap?

 

axlebox.jpg.e9474d0f7f245cb0c441afcd6ffe80b0.jpg

 

Here's the same axlebox in black. Am I over thinking this?

 

67387137_axlebox2.jpg.dbbf3a158955757fe04a4259fdd98f51.jpg

Edited by JCL
  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

A quick update.

 

I've been self isolating for the last couple of weeks as I've had to fly over from the UK. I've used the time to learn more about the 3D program Blender, so hopefully it looks a bit more realistic than before, and gives a better idea of a painted model.

 

On top of that, more details have been added. In the end I went for cylinders behind the axleboxes, done some buffers (which will be detatched from the model so that third party buffers can be added - I'll take mine from the plasticard version I did. Mainly to see if it'll print, I've also recreated the A-W plate on the side. The nose is almost done (I've just noticed some lifting lugs), and windows are starting to be carved out of the end doors.

 

Once that's done, I'll do more on the chassis.

 

Thanks for looking.

 

313932939_3Dprintv3.jpg.210c46bcb46467ec8b208d0255069971.jpg

 

1539097484_3Dprintv32.jpg.2b630dc973cf75e0d61dcce624be3f4f.jpg

Edited by JCL
Added second photo
  • Like 10
Link to post
Share on other sites

Looking good JCL. Just one very minor point. I would probably get an etched brass 'Armstrong Whitworth' plate made up by Narrow Planet, so would just end up filing off your printed version. 

 

You mentioned buffers. I would tend to leave those off and fit some Alan Gibson sprung ones.

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

Thanks Michael, thanks for your comment, I'll change it back and make it bigger

 

Hi Wagpnmaster, the buffers won't be attached to the loco. What I tend to do is remove them at the end and put them on a 2mm sprue. Then I "drill" holes in the beams to take them - or whatever you would like to put in there. I'll be reusing my old ones. With regards to the plate, it can easily be removed. :)

 

cheers

 

Jason

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

I thought I'd give it a go - I actually prefer it!

 

I wonder is the real reason why the LNER wouldn't entertain one wasn't because they didn't care for diesels, but because they didn't know how to line it. :) 

 

1297802304_corporateblue.jpg.1a93c206f6f8b2ca0222a26398f844cc.jpg

Edited by JCL
  • Like 7
  • Funny 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

That's true, although, this loco was also given the D9 identity by A-W. Interestingly, they pushed the idea of these running in pairs like Cl 20s, but only the one was built in the end. :)

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

It looks like I'm in the pound for another day; I'm allowed out tomorrow. I did the following overnight:

  • the fan, which is located inside the ducting. I'm thinking that the fan will have a small hole in the bottom, with a corresponding one in the ducting, so it can be easily mounted centrally on a rod - could even be powered I suppose,
  • the roof. 99% done, the exhaust cowl was a massive pain as each point had to be moved by hand. I've some squinting still to do on the blunt end,
  • redid the beading. Although close, the original wasn't of a uniform thickness, so it all came off and was replaced. Also included beading on the ends either side of the doors,
  • finished the blunt end. I've only really got one good photo of that end (the dark one with the man standing next to the loco that I uploaded a couple of years ago), but it does seem to show a lot more detail.

Still a fair bit to do though.

 

780994764_Untitled-1_0000_Layer4.jpg.10e1acd3ac2022bece6d47d47d0f9659.jpg

 

Untitled-1_0003_fan.jpg.fe4a183f5ef22514aa5fc60d5ecf35da.jpg

 

My idea is that the exhaust ducting will be printed separately, so the mesh over the opening can be added before sliding it up.

 

315839205_exhaustunit.jpg.0e582e409f9b22d90b9e9b0ddf25bff0.jpg

 

cheers

 

Jason

  • Like 11
Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...