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On 01/01/2022 at 17:57, Dr Gerbil-Fritters said:

A bit more ballasting this afternoon. It'll need a lot more fettling before I'll be happy, but I am pleased I went with real granite ballast.  I've tried Woodland Scenics before and it's too rounded for my taste... looks like pebbles, not ballast.

 

20220101_171326.jpg.f04ca7292ffc9fa83e8f6d6b28fc7d8a.jpg

 

I also extended the power bus around to the other side of the layout ready for the staging yard.  Soldering is such a joy.

 

What's the sound transmission like? I'm thinking of using chincilla sand but the 'copydex/WS' brigade are convincing me otherwise...

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14 hours ago, Lacathedrale said:

 

What's the sound transmission like? I'm thinking of using chincilla sand but the 'copydex/WS' brigade are convincing me otherwise...

 

Zero - I use Woodland Scenics trackbed on a roll.  Highly recommended. 

 

wst1474-woodland-scenics-ho-track-bed-roll-5mm-x-24-seamless-roll--1036-p.jpg.60d47e7816a8329f7bcf13f94d056925.jpg

 

The stone ballast is just decorative infill really.  I use N scale granite from Gaugemaster.

 

ballast.JPG.04b8d09ff39f242be7e6debe861dba5d.JPG

Edited by Dr Gerbil-Fritters
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Nice, thanks! I've got some WS roadbed sheets and foamtack glue I was planning on using, glad to know that the ballast itself isn't a huge factor despite being real stone. Thanks!

 

ps. you still have me looking wistfully at French H0 after your introduction to me of Acheaux ...

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  • 3 weeks later...

Very little progress to report.  I did receive the holder for the Powercab handset from Tarkine Models in Australia.  

 

20220122_145805.jpg.51beda2fe99d7ac18b2648766853d7d5.jpg

 

It's designed specifically to fit this particular handset, giving secure snug support and still allowing access to all the buttons.  I'm very pleased with it, and efficient service from Tarkine and Aus Post. 

 

Even her maj's hobby rozzers left it alone.  No customs to pay! That's the first time in a while they've not held a parcel for ransom... 

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1 hour ago, Lacathedrale said:

I can't get how unergonomic and inelegant those 'early' DCC handsets look - like a Hi-Fi remote from 1999.

 

Why no progress?

I'll take your bait, William.

 

They are very comfortable to hold and  you can do everything with one hand - once you get used to it, without even looking at it as far as driving trains is concerned. Why change what works?

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5 hours ago, Lacathedrale said:

I can't get how unergonomic and inelegant those 'early' DCC handsets look - like a Hi-Fi remote from 1999.

 

Why no progress?

 

Probably because most of them were designed in the late 90s early 2000s and there's no commercial imperative to improve them.  

 

The Powercab is a bit big for my hands - and I have hands like shovels.  (I play bass guitar)

 

I don't operate often enough to find it completely intuitive or comfortable just yet.

 

What I would really like is something like the Protothrottle but a smidge smaller.  I prefer analogue levers and switches to rotary pots with no stops, personally.

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7 hours ago, Lacathedrale said:

I can't get how unergonomic and inelegant those 'early' DCC handsets look - like a Hi-Fi remote from 1999.

 

Why no progress?

Maybe there has been progress, like, oh I dunno..... using an App on your smartphone perhaps??

But some of us are such awful Luddites that we stick with what we have that works, and have no desire to spend extra £££ just to have the latest "ooh, shiny!!" technology.

As for all this wireless wizardry, it didn't look quite so impressive in the Faraday Cage that was the Telford ICC, for the Guildex Show a few years ago. :blum:

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The only thing I don't like about power cab controllers is the throttle. I naturally thumb downwards to slow things down....on the power cab that is go faster.... causing me to be shouted at as the DMU which is supposed to stopping at the branch line terminus suddenly making a suicide dash into the buffer stops. :nono:

 

Give me a twirly  knob to play with any day. :mosking:

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5 hours ago, Clive Mortimore said:

I naturally thumb downwards to slow things down....on the power cab that is go faster

Not on mine it isn't (and yes, I'll beat you to it - perhaps that's because I'm in Australia...).

 

1 hour ago, Dr Gerbil-Fritters said:

push forwards for accelerate and pull back to decelerate

See above.

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13 hours ago, Clive Mortimore said:

The only thing I don't like about power cab controllers is the throttle. I naturally thumb downwards to slow things down....on the power cab that is go faster...

It's not like that on mine, either. :scratchhead: Or any other I've seen in use.

Maybe yours is faulty? :dontknow:

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13 hours ago, Clive Mortimore said:

The only thing I don't like about power cab controllers is the throttle. I naturally thumb downwards to slow things down....on the power cab that is go faster.... causing me to be shouted at as the DMU which is supposed to stopping at the branch line terminus suddenly making a suicide dash into the buffer stops. :nono:

 

Give me a twirly  knob to play with any day. :mosking:

The lines around the thumb wheel are a bit of a clue, they decrease down wards, looks like you've got one wired up wrong

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I got round to fitting two of my Br50s with the front couplers yesterday. 

 

20220129_155655.jpg.1ffa4ed889f2c3d32869c51888e1c210.jpg

 

I really like the brutish look of these, even though they're actually quite light engines and eminently suited to branch line operations.  I did a bit of shunting just to try things out.  A van and a flat to the goods shed, and a loaded hopper to the coal merchants.  It all seemed to work ok, but I need to work out where to locate the uncoupling magnets.

 

20220129_171156.jpg.c2e7d4bfc1b9ee8b23d6ea2d639bd3c0.jpg

 

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I'm not getting much time on the old moba at the moment which is frustrating as I really want to crack on with the scenery...

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50 2840 has had a first pass of weathering.. 

 

20220204_165500.jpg.ee6913a5c94a716af0b3a568dc2c7841.jpg

 

I need to tone down the magnetic arm of the kadee though, it looks a bit naff...

 

One of the things I really like about Roco is that spare parts are readily available... this seems to not to be the case with UK models so much, which makes repairs/modifications rather difficult.  I've got some bits on the way from Germany for these loks to bring them up to EpIV standard and it was just a matter of finding the part numbers and ordering from the Roco website.

 

 

Edited by Dr Gerbil-Fritters
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On 04/02/2022 at 17:05, Dr Gerbil-Fritters said:

50 2840 has had a first pass of weathering.. 

 

20220204_165500.jpg.ee6913a5c94a716af0b3a568dc2c7841.jpg

 

I need to tone down the magnetic arm of the kadee though, it looks a bit naff...

 

One of the things I really like about Roco is that spare parts are readily available... this seems to not to be the case with UK models so much, which makes repairs/modifications rather difficult.  I've got some bits on the way from Germany for these loks to bring them up to EpIV standard and it was just a matter of finding the part numbers and ordering from the Roco website.

 

 

Roco/Fleischmann seem to be holding stocks for models up to 10 years old - they recently had a sale of older parts @ 50% off.

 

Sometimes, it can be tricky to find the correct part number, especially if your is a variant.

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My box of spares arrived from Roco today - so I can repair the damage to the Kabintender among other little chores.  I only noticed in the photos that the roof over the access doors has folded flat back against the roof instead of being aligned to the hand rails...  I can also replace the water hatch levers which did not survive my attempts to cram a decoder into the Kabin.

 

So far, the difficulty of installing decoders into these models is the only downside I've encountered.  To be fair though, I had just as much difficulty with a Hornby BoB, S15 and even more with a Bachmann 4CEP.

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