Coarse Scale O Gauge

[Mark Carne]

14 hours ago, Nearholmer said:

possibly of souls.

 

You don’t need to be an avid collector to join the TCS, in fact I think it’s almost badly named, putting people off who aren’t. It’s good for people who are interested in the history of our hobby, whether they have cupboards-full of old toy trains or not.

 

This year, the summer exhibition has, of course, had to be cancelled, otherwise I’d recommend that you come to that, because it’s the nearest you’ll ever get to a pop-up museum of the history of commercial toy/model trains, and you get to meet all the specialists in all the different makes/types.

It has been said before that the TCS is badly named, but what else would you call it? Model Railway History Society? That might send the wrong message to those whos trains are far from models. Not sure what else to suggest. I think it's down to those of us in the TCS to spread the word, if you like toy or model trains, it's the club for you. After all, what statement usually follows the club name, and features at the bottom of the front cover of the current magazine?

 

Mark

[sncf231e]

11 hours ago, Mark Carne said:

After all, what statement usually follows the club name, and features at the bottom of the front cover of the current magazine?

 

Mark

Many different model railways in all scales & gauges?

Oh no, that is on top of my website: http://sncf231e.nl/ 

But it is in the title of my book on cranes: http://sncf231e.nl/crane-trucks/

Regards

Fred

[Nearholmer]

Hello Mark, trust you are in good form.

 

Yes, I said “almost badly named” because I couldn’t think of a more useful name. 
 

Kevin

[sncf231e]

Not coarse scale 0 gauge, but coarse scale 1 gauge this afternoon; a Bing for Bassett Lowke LNWR first class, a Bing for Bassett Lowke Midland third /brake and a Bassett Lowke 12-wheel LMS Dining car (and a fine scale LMS baggage car and live steam LMS compound No 1000 4-4-0):

 

 

Regards

Fred

[goldfish]

Continuing my fixation with couplings... Having replaced the couplings on a range of post war Hornby rolling stock and locomotives, with what I regard as great success, I thought I'd have a look at some French Hornby coaches. Sadly it would seem that to get at the insides to changes the couplings you have to dismantle the whole coach, and just at the moment I cannot generate the enthusiasm to do that. However it is possible to replace the couplings on one of a baggage car without the need for complete dismantling, so I have done just that. French Hornby are somewhat lower than British Hornby, and I did wonder if the drop link would fouls the centre rail, but in fact there is plenty of clearance.

 

 

I was rather put off replacing Hornby couplings because of the need to replace the rivets. I have used eyelets as replacement rivets in the past with mixed success, but these can be difficult to fit with restricted access. I also wanted something that could be easily reversed if necessary. After a lot of research and trial and error I finally came up with the idea of using nylon shoulder washers and flange headed screws. The hole for the rivet holding Hornby couplings is roughly 4mm in diameter which is the outside diameter of M3 shoulder washers. For the most part a shoulder height of 2mm is fine, but for No.50 wagons a shoulder height of 4mm is required. Where the rivet holding the front coupling on a locomotive also holds the mounting lug for a lamp a shoulder height of 3mm is better. Rather over engineered I know, but it works and is quick and easy.

Removing the Hornby rivets is quite interesting. They are of widely differing quality. Some are very soft whilst offers are extremely hard, and the hollow ones vary from needing to be ground off to barely holding the coupling in place.

 

[brianusa]

Now that MTH has folded, I wonder what the spares situation will be?  I have some older and original locos which are still running but lack smoke or sound and while I have not missed either, some time something more serious could occur.  Could they end up on the dead line?  For ever!

      Brian.

[Nearholmer]

I’m sure I saw somewhere (Classic Toy Trains magazine?) that a group of MTH staff are forming a company to continue the ‘electronics’ side of the business.

 

I only own one MTH loco, and my plan for that is to fillet it of all electronics if/when they go bad, and run it is straight, silent DC. The motor and gears should last a very long time at the rate I use it (famous last words!).

[sncf231e]

I received this information in an email from my MTH Supplier (C.T. McCormick Hardware):

 

DCS/Proto-Sound Lives On

June 9, 2020 - With the scheduled closing of M.T.H. Electric Trains next year, support for the DCS Digital Command System and the Proto-Sound 3.0 onboard locomotive systems will continue through a new independent company headed up by current M.T.H. staff once direct M.T.H. support for the systems concludes on June 1, 2021.

The new tech company will continue to manufacture and provide support including any necessary software updates to the DCS hardware or DCS WiFi App. In fact, new and exciting product ideas are currently under development.

The DCS System controls any Proto-Sound 2.0 and later equipped locomotives and first debuted 18 years ago. It has been an integral part of the M.T.H. product line family since its inception and its continuation beyond the closing of M.T.H. is an important part of the transition envisioned by retiring M.T.H. president Mike Wolf.

As the retirement transition process moves forward, more details about the new company's creation and ongoing development of M.T.H.'s technology packages will be announced. Stay tuned.

 

Regards

Fred

[sncf231e]

I played with some Hornby clockwork this afternoon:

 

Regards

Fred

[rockershovel]

On 03/08/2020 at 01:54, brianusa said:

Now that MTH has folded, I wonder what the spares situation will be?  I have some older and original locos which are still running but lack smoke or sound and while I have not missed either, some time something more serious could occur.  Could they end up on the dead line?  For ever!

      Brian.

 

There is a healthy aftermarket for this sort of thing. I’ve recently received a MTH PRR K4S back from a repairer in the US, fitted with an aftermarket reverser and sound board (I think, a Dallee unit). It’s very similar in general operation to the QSI sound on my Broadway Limited On30 2-8-0 - give it about 3 volts, wait for the “startup sounds” to cycle, then give it 6 volts plus and it moves off with synchronised chuff etc. Horn and bell operate as you would expect. Right now this loco stands at around $350, which I don’t think is too bad for a loco in effectively NIB condition with new electronics. 

 

I got it fairly cheaply, it had changed hands several times due to its troublesome PS1 electronics. I’ve read quite a lot about this system and it has a very mixed reputation. I can only say that I don’t miss it. 

[rockershovel]

On 03/08/2020 at 01:54, brianusa said:

Now that MTH has folded, I wonder what the spares situation will be?  I have some older and original locos which are still running but lack smoke or sound and while I have not missed either, some time something more serious could occur.  Could they end up on the dead line?  For ever!

      Brian.

 

Incidentally, I don’t know what you are using for a controller but I have a MTH Rail King controller, running off the 16v AC output from a Helmsman and I find it very good for this sort of loco. 

[brianusa]

Quite a change to see clockwork trains, Fred, and that No.2 tank looks good at speed.  The last time I ran mine, it ended up on the floor after a curve, fortunately without real damage!

      Brian.

[Florence Locomotive Works]

Currently on the what is hopefully the tail end of a 9 month long saga of trying to get this only fired once (when I got it, it’s been test run a lot since then) Bassett Lowke live steam mogul to run properly. More info Here.

[J. S. Bach]

Kind of looks like the old Lionel O-36 style track. My parents could not afford it so I had the smaller profile O-27.

[Florence Locomotive Works]

2 minutes ago, J. S. Bach said:

Kind of looks like the old Lionel O-36 style track. My parents could not afford it so I had the smaller profile O-27.

It’s definitely Lionel track, I don’t remember which style though. Sadly it’s the made in China stuff, oh well. 

[Nearholmer]

Have you tried the UK/European Classic 0 gauge forum, which is a repository of knowledge about BL live steamers? http://www.classicogauge.net/forum/viewforum.php?f=9

 

The journal of the Bassett Lowke Society has also included some very erudite articles on how to get these locos to run well. http://www.bassettlowkesociety.org.uk/ 

[Florence Locomotive Works]

23 minutes ago, Nearholmer said:

Have you tried the UK/European Classic 0 gauge forum, which is a repository of knowledge about BL live steamers? http://www.classicogauge.net/forum/viewforum.php?f=9

 

The journal of the Bassett Lowke Society has also included some very erudite articles on how to get these locos to run well. http://www.bassettlowkesociety.org.uk/ 

I will look into both of those. Many thanks.

[Nearholmer]

If you sign-up to Classic 0 Gauge, you can post a query and will, I'm sure, get lots of help because several active members of the forum are keen runners of these locos .......... pity your are a bit far from England, because in non-pandemic times the very best way to get help would be to bring to loco to a BLS meeting.

 

I'm not into these locos, but i do know that getting the valve-timing right is vital, and that the guys know the exact measurements to use.

 

 

Edited September 2, 2020 by Nearholmer

[sncf231e]

You mention the use of toy steam oil in the post on the other forum you are linking to. I think you should use live steam oil as available from large scale or gauge 1 suppliers: http://www.southernsteamtrains.com/misc/steam-oil-hwade.htm

 

Further it looks like yolu use a small radius track. I think the minimum should be O72. And large is even better:

 

Regards

Fred

Edited September 3, 2020 by sncf231e

[Florence Locomotive Works]

4 hours ago, sncf231e said:

You mention the use of toy steam oil in the post on the other forum you are linking to. I think you should use live steam oil as available from large scale or gauge 1 suppliers: http://www.southernsteamtrains.com/misc/steam-oil-hwade.htm

 

Further it looks like yolu use a small radius track. I think the minimum should be O72. And large is even better:

 

Regards

Fred

I have tried two different kinds of live steam oil in this engine, with horrible results. Essentially it all overpowers the spring in the regulator assembly and spews everywhere. It also completely gummed up the cylinder and valves, so methinks toy steam oil is the way to go.
 

As for the track radius, it’s the largest Lionel makes, and I’ve seen videos of other engines running very well on it. At some point I would like to by a big auction lot of Bassett Lowke track and build something’s similar to what you have in one of the flower beds outside, but that won’t be happening for a long time. Btw, your video is one of the best I’ve seen on the subject of BL Moguls. 

[rockershovel]

Depending on exactly what source you are referring to, Lionel (or at least, Lionel type) tubular Track is available in curves of O31 (the most common size), O42, O54 and O72. I’ve seen the O42 and O54 sizes occasionally on eBay. 

 

O27 profile Track is available in the same size ranges, I’ve got some O42 and O54 curves and O42 switches.

[Florence Locomotive Works]

Well I can now say I’m am the proud owner of a 1923 Bing for Bassett Lowke LNWR (LMS livery) George the Fifth clockwork locomotive, to replace my now beyond repair mogul. Granted, it does have a Hornby tender, but that also made it much more affordable. A bit of touching up and renumbering of tender is in order. 

[Mark Carne]

On 07/09/2020 at 17:20, Florence Locomotive Works said:

Well I can now say I’m am the proud owner of a 1923 Bing for Bassett Lowke LNWR (LMS livery) George the Fifth clockwork locomotive, to replace my now beyond repair mogul. Granted, it does have a Hornby tender, but that also made it much more affordable. A bit of touching up and renumbering of tender is in order. 

Just my personal view, but resist touching it in, and resist renumbering the tender, those tenders are highly desirable in original condition, even the condition yours is in.

 

Mark

[Il Grifone]

It you must touch it up, use acrylic paint which should come off again with a spot of alcohol. This shouldn't affect the original finish, but....

 

It's always my problem. Do I touch up the chips or leave well alone?

Valuewise, retouched = restored. A restored example is 'worth' about the same as a good/average specimen.

 

For example, I have a body of the rare black 1947 LNER version of the Dublo N2 tank. It has just enough lettering left to prove it's an LNER example and still has most of the gold maker's label on the bunker. An obvious candidate for restoration, but it would lose it's identity, as it could have been the less rare LMS version (two years of production rather than one - 1948 LNER N2s were green).

[Florence Locomotive Works]

After a bit of retouching it’s finished, in LMS livery. The main bit that needed retouching was the piano box, and the tender frames. Well actually I ended up repainting the tender frames entirely.